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Chris Sharma Onsights Two (or Three?) 5.14s In Maple Canyon
Fresh off his well publicized ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15), Chris Sharma made a brief stop in Utah’s Maple Canyon last weekend. In short order he managed to onsight T-Rex (5.14b), Divine Fury (5.14b), Whole Shot (5.13d/14a), and Toxic Turkey (5.13c) along with a few other 5.13s. Especially impressive is the beta intensive nature of the overhung climbing on these routes in the Pipe Dream Cave. They are usually climbed with a high amount of jessery (kneebars, heel-toe scums, etc.
) to stave off the inevitable pump.
Given his impressive fitness level, it should be interesting to see what happens when Sharma visits Rumney for this weekend’s Nor’easter festival.
On the subject of 5.14 onsights, off the top of my head I can’t think of any other 5.14 onsights done in the U.S and here Sharma has done 2 or 3 in short order.
If you can think of any others, leave them in the comments.
Chris Sharma pulling down in the Pipe Dream Cave
Photo: John Evans
19 comments
what about those euros in the red last fall?
Looking back on my post on the event I noted that Steve McClure almost onsighted Transworld Depravity but couldn't quite pull it off. Its possible I missed something though.
Dave flashed a 5.14a at the Fortress years ago and an 8C flash in Canada. close I guess but no onsite.
Of note might be Dave Graham's Onsight of Gropius 8b/b+. It was the first onsight of the route and he said it was hard. Possibly 14a after a recent break (via 8a.nu).
anybody know wutt kicks chris is sportin ??????
Evovle? Not sure the specific model
I would presume some prototype model that people will swoon over because Sharma wears them. If he started only climbing barefoot, so would the climbing world. Can't believe fiveten didn't fight harder to keep him...
garth miller onsighted cannibals direct at americian fork in the late 90's
it looks like the optimus. his new shoe from Evolve.
weeerrddd.
He's been hanging out with the European climbers. Those cats are pretty good at what they do and that's evident here lately with Chris.
Katie Brown- Omaha Beach 14a... down rated to 13d the day after her feat.
That is awesome the routes at maple are typically very beta intensive and can be really hard to onsight. Nice job Chris!
Not an onsight.. but Sean McColl flashed Thanatopsis .14b at the Red last October.
Not to take away from the ascents, but it is my understanding that Omaha Beach WAS .13d when Katie Brown onsited it. The route has subsequently been upgraded to .14a due to the crumbling / breaking of several key holds. Also, it has been suggested by more than one person that Thanatopsis is .14a "with the new beta." I have no idea which method Sean McColl used. No matter what, both ascents are seriously impressive.
I watched Sean flash it. Mike Doyle was shouting beta to him as he climbed it so I suppose it was the old beta. Either way I agree the flash was very impressive, regardless of the grade.
So maybe DG with Gropius and Garth Miller back in the 90's. Seems like the Americans need to step their game up!
to whom this may concern, on the topic of on-sighting 5.14's, i think that smith rock has a wide variety of long and difficult sport climbs that deserve some attention. Chris Sharma should make the trip down and hit up some more of those ill nasty gnar gnar in-sight 5.14's...naaa meeeen!
He checks this thread every year, so you're probably in luck.
Boooring! Notify me when Sharma starts plugging serious gear. He can and he will!