Moving On And Getting Over
Reflecting back on the surprising ways this website impacted me in real life, the winter of 2011 was a pivotal one. At the beginning of January I found myself at my first Outdoor R...
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Browse the main ClimbingNarc.com post archive. The dedicated video archive has 1,256 entries.
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Video Friday - 4/3/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Miller, Lightner Win 2015 SCS Nationals
Delaney Miller and Kai Lightner win 2015 SCS Nationals
Live From 2015 SCS Nationals Finals
Tune in tonight at 6:45 PM EDT for live coverage of the final round of 2015 SCS Nationals from Central Rock Gym in Watertown, MA
Live From 2015 SCS Nationals Semifinals
Tune in today at Noon EDT for live coverage of the Semifinal round of 2015 SCS Nationals at Central Rock Gym in Watertown, MA
Live From 2015 SCS Nationals Qualifiers
Tune in at 6PM EDT for live coverage of the qualifying round of the 2015 SCS National Championships from Central Rock Gym in Watertown, MA
Video Friday - 3/27/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week...
2015 SCS Nationals Streaming Live This Weekend
The 2015 edition of SCS Nationals streams live this Friday and Saturday
Video Friday - 3/20/2015
The highest rated videos of the last week...
Joe's Valley: Time For A Change
The Access Fund : As the popularity of Joe’s Valley continues to rise, increased climber traffic is causing some extreme environmental impacts that could threaten access if not add...
Ashima Shiraishi Climbs Open Your Mind Direct
Ashima Shiraishi takes it up a notch in Santa Linya, Spain
Possible 5.14c FA By Mark Anderson
Mark Anderson 1 , writing on his blog about the FA of a potential 5.14c in Colorado's Clear Creek Canyon called Siberian Express : I’m calling the route Siberian Express . Based on...
The Heart-Stopping Climbs Of Alex Honnold
Another big, mainstream news piece on Alex Honnold, this time in a cover story for The New York Times Magazine . Plenty of great insight into what makes Honnold tick, but I especia...
Video Friday - 3/13/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week...
The Dawn Wall Interviews
Cool, interactive piece from Climbing on the Dawn Wall featuring interviews with both Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell. I particularly liked this quote from Tommy about why he is...
Chris Sharma Talks About His Latest FA
PlanetMountain caught up with Chris Sharma on the heels of his recent FA of El Bon Combat : It’s about 25m long, up some really interesting rock, a mix of sandstone and conglomerat...
New 5.15 From Chris Sharma In Spain
Chris Sharma is "back" with another 5.15 in Spain
Video Friday - 3/6/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Video Friday - 2/27/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Ticked Off
The Access Fund : Despite the obvious benefit of chalk for climbing—its drying effect on sweaty hands—climbers can often get carried away with it. Over the years, chalk gets caked...
Mission Accomplished
Mike Anderson, writing on his blog after climbing his first 5.14c, Daniel Woods' Mission Impossible in Clear Creek Canyon, CO, at the age of 37: Even as I write this a couple days...
Alex Puccio Sends The Swarm
More hard sending for Alex Puccio
Hueco Tanks Public Use Plan Under Review
Melissa Strong, who owns and operates the excellent Wagon Wheel Co-opt in Hueco Tanks , brings news that the Public Use Plan that lays out guidelines for access to Hueco Tanks is u...
Video Friday - 2/20/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Sachi Amma Smashes Spanish Sport Climbing
Sachi Amma closes out his trip to Spain with an incredible ticklist
Mike Doyle Repeats Necessary Evil (5.14c)
Mike Doyle, writing on his blog about becoming "the oldest, shortest, weakest and least talented climber" to repeat the rarely-repeated Chris Sharma testpiece Necessary Evil (5.14c...
Petition To Save Geyikbayiri
Bad news about potential mining at the Turkish sport climbing paradise , Geyikbayiri: Rock climbing at Geyikbayiri, one of biggest and the most famous sport climbing areas in Turke...
More 5.14 Onsights (And Near Onsights) For Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has been busy doing Adam Ondra-like things of late, both in Spain and in Canada
Daniel Woods Wins Another Hueco Rock Rodeo
Daniel Woods wins the 2015 Hueco Rock Rodeo
Alex Puccio's 9th National Championship
Alex Puccio, writing about her mindset prior to winning her 9th National Championship in bouldering: I always feel more pressure for ABS Nationals than any other Pro competition in...
Video Friday - 2/13/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Potential New V15 In The UK
Climb Magazine reports on a potential new V15 in the UK by Mike Adams: The latest chapter unfolded on Tuesday 3rd of February when Mike managed to link in the obvious low start of...
2015 Opens With V15 Repeats Across The Globe
V15 repeats for Alex Megos, Griffin Whiteside, Kilian Fischhuber, Manuel Brunn, Martin Keller and Nils Favre
Interview With ABS Nationals Winner Mohammad Jafari
Nice interview with surprise ABS Nationals winner Mohammad Jafari Mahmodabadi by his home gym in the U.S., Earth Treks Climbing in Golden, CO: For me, winning championships comes s...
Puccio, Jafari Win At 2015 ABS Nationals Bouldering Championship
Alex Puccio and Mohammad Jafari Mahmodabadi win 2015 ABS Nationals
Live From 2015 ABS Nationals Finals
Tune in tonight night at 7:30 pm CST for live coverage of ABS Nationals Finals from the Monona Terrace in Madison, Wisconsin
Live From 2015 ABS Nationals Semi-finals
Tune in this morning at 10 AM CST for live coverage of the 2015 ABS Nationals Semi-final round from the Monona Terrace in Madison, WI.
Live From 2015 ABS Nationals Men's Qualifiers
Tune in at 4 PM CST this afternoon for our live coverage of the 2015 ABS Nationals Men's Qualifying round from the Monona Terrace in Madison, WI
Live From 2015 ABS Nationals Women's Qualifiers
Tune in at 9 AM CST this morning for our live coverage of the 2015 ABS Nationals Women's Qualifying round from the Monona Terrace in Madison, WI
Video Friday - 2/6/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week...
2015 ABS Nationals Live Pre-show With Alex Puccio
Check back later this evening at 6 PM CST for a Live ABS Nationals Pre-show from Madison, WI with Alex Puccio and much more...
"I would like to take a look at it"
Adam Ondra, in an interview with Squamish Climbing Magazine about his thoughts on Yosemite and the Dawn Wall: Yes, I feel ashamed that I have never been to Yosemite, and this climb...
New V15 In Red Rock From Nalle Hukkataival
Nalle Hukkataival takes care of business in Red Rock
Sachi Amma Repeats Fight Or Flight (5.15b)
World Cup champion Sachi Amma looks to be in top form of late, sending multiple routes 5.14d and harder in Spain.
2015 ABS Nationals Streaming Live This Weekend
The 2015 edition of ABS Nationals is set to stream live from Madison, WI this Friday and Saturday
Video Friday - 1/30/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Daniel Woods Talks About The Process
Daniel Woods, writing about his recent FA of The Process in Bishop, CA which he believes is V16: To grade something like this is hard. Media loves big numbers and to see a progress...
Video Friday - 1/23/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Fear Of Falling
One story that re-emerged during the big Dawn Wall push was this incredible story from 2000 when a young Tommy Caldwell, along with Beth Rodden, John Dickey and Jason Smith, was ab...
Daniel Woods Completes The Process
Daniel Woods completes the first ascent of the big project out in Bishop
Video Friday - 1/16/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Valley Uprising Now Available On Demand
Watch Sender Films' Valley Uprising On Demand
"It's Really A Lifestyle"
T0mmy Caldwell, being interviewed by the New York Time minutes after topping out the Dawn Wall: I would love for this to open people’s minds to what an amazing sport this is. I thi...
Watch Dawn Wall Finish Live
Watch the final moments of the Dawn Wall free climb live
New York Times Profiles Tommy Caldwell
John Branch also profiled Tommy Caldwell for the New York Times : Whatever part inside of Tommy Caldwell that made him attempt the seemingly impossible — a free climb of El Capitan...
New York Times Profiles Kevin Jorgeson
John Branch has been doing some really good pieces about the Dawn Wall for the New York Times , and this profile on Kevin Jorgeson is no exception. Of note is Jorgeson's comments o...
Video Friday - 1/9/2015
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Tommy Caldwell Completes Last 5.14 Pitch Of Dawn Wall
Tommy Caldwell completes the final 5.14 pitch of the Dawn Wall
Dawn Wall Project Goes Mainstream
The efforts by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson to free climb a route up El Capitan's Dawn Wall is really blowing up with much of the climbing world and now even the New York Time...
Video Friday - Top 10 Highest Rated & Most Viewed Videos Of 2014
The top climbing videos of 2013 based on your votes and views
Video Friday - 12/26/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Video Friday - 12/19/14
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Video Friday - 12/12/14
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Video Friday - 12/5/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Adam Ondra Climbs His 100th 5.14d Or Harder
Finally . Other than the sheer absurdity of the number, what I find most interesting about this is that Ondra did his first 5.14d way back in 2006 when he was just 13. Since then a...
Give The Gift Of Access
Word on the street is that now is a big time of year for buying things, so if we're all going to be buying things why not give the gift of Access this holiday season? The Access Fu...
Video Friday - 11/28/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
Alex Puccio Sends Black Lung (V13)
The Year of The Pooch™ continues...
Jimmy Webb Defies Gravity
Jimmy Webb does the 2nd ascent of one of Colorado's hardest boulder problems
Video Friday - 11/21/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week, and the release of Exposure Volume II
Video Friday - 11/14/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Revolution & Pusher Closing Up Shop In The U.S.
Unfortunate news from The Cordless Group, parent company of Revolution pads and Pusher holds: To keep this company going, I am facing a hard reality; make huge financial investment...
How to Carry A Crashpad
My hands down favorite is The Sled. Can't wait for sledding season to start...
Dave Pegg, Prominent Climber And Guidebook Publisher Is Gone
DPM 's Mikey Williams, writing about the passing of Dave Pegg : Dave founded Wolverine Publishing in the early 2000s and quickly changed the landscape of climbing guidebooks foreve...
Dave Pegg
Sad news from Rock & Ice about the passing of prolific route developer and guidebook publisher Dave Pegg: To say that Dave was a serious climber is an understatement. Rifle, and th...
Jorg Verhoeven Frees The Nose
Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven becomes only the 4th person to free climb The Nose on Yosemite's El Capitan
Video Friday - 11/7/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
"A True Midwestern Climber"
Alex Honnold, writing about his record-setting experience at the 2014 edition of 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell: By the end of the day our skin was wrecked and our bodies hurt, but we’...
The Transient Power Of Travel
Justin Roth, writing on The Stone Mind after returning from the final leg of this year's Petzl Roc Trip: Often, the flashiness of the itinerant lifestyle is held up as the antidote...
The Future Of Climbing
Climbing Business Journal reports from a recent meeting of "an informal group of leaders in the climbing industry" where issues like routesetter safety and poor behavior at outdoor...
Video Friday - 10/31/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Video Friday - 10/24/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Video Friday - 10/17/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
The Answer Is Yes
Question posed to Climbing.com's "Answer Man": Clipping your toenails in the middle of the gym is totally disgusting—am I right? Answer from me: of course you are right. The fact t...
Angela Eiter Climbs Her First 5.14d
The Year of the Female Climber™ continues, this time with Austria's Angela Eiter doing her first 5.14d at Nassereith, Austria: Just a few days ago we mentioned Eiter's first ascent...
Video Friday - 10/10/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Puccio, Webb Win 2014 Portland Boulder Rally
Results from the open finals of the 2014 Portland Boulder Rally
Live From The 2014 Portland Boulder Rally
Tune in tonight at 6:15 PM PDT for live coverage of the 2014 Portland Boulder Rally from The Circuit Gym in Tigard, Oregon.
Video Friday - 10/3/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Video Friday - 9/26/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
More Olympic Push
The push for climbing to be an Olympic sport continues : "I'm open to anything because I love our sport," Dornberger said. "I love tradition, but it's vital that we become an Olymp...
"I kind of know how to climb"
Adam Ondra, in an interview with Evening Sends : For me, however, it takes less time to adapt because I have climbed many kilometers of rock in my life—on all kinds rock and differ...
Hey, What's That Thing On Your Back?
Well-timed post over on The Stone Mind about the inevitable questions we get any time we go bouldering around normal people: I’ve bouldered for 20 years now and have been asked thi...
Alex Puccio's 2014 Rampage Continues
More hard sends in the summer of 2014 for Alex Puccio
Video Friday - 9/19/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Are Climbing Videos Too Tame?
Daniel Woods, in an interview by Andrew Bisharat for Without Walls : In climbing films, I feel like there is a pattern that we all follow. The filmmakers ask us the same questions...
U.S. Team Shines At Paraclimbing World Championship
In addition to the lead competition won by Adam Ondra and Jain Kim , the Paraclimbing World Championships also happened last weekend in Gijon, Spain. Climbing.com has the full brea...
Ondra, Kim Win Lead World Championships
Adam Ondra and Jain Kim win the 2014 Lead World Championships
Video Friday - 9/12/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Valley Uprising Nostalgic
Smart piece by Andrew Bisharat about the new Reel Rock Tour film Valley Uprising that premieres tomorrow night in Boulder, CO: Why are we watching this film in 2014—really? And wha...
Adam Ondra Interviewed By Epic TV
Epic TV chats with Adam Ondra
Video Friday - 9/5/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Honnold Free Solos Squamish's University Wall
Alex Honnold has been keeping busy up in Squamish, soloing 290 pitches for his 29th birthday on August 17th and then soloing University Wall on The Chief : This August 25, Honnold...
A Group Lifts Paraclimbers To Higher Goals
Nice piece in the New York Time the other week on The Adaptive Climbing Group, a group of paraclimbers in New York: The Adaptive Climbing Group is the brainchild of Kareemah Batts,...
Video Friday - 8/29/2014
All the latest videos can be found here , but here are the top rated videos of the past week: Exposure Vol II Official Teaser Midwest Restless: Missouri Granite From Rocklands With...
Kai Lightner Profile
I posted this this video to the ClimbingNarc Facebook page on Tuesday and it got an incredible response, so if you haven't taken 10 minutes to watch this profile of Kai Lightner I...
R.I.P. Flyin’ Brian McCray
Nice post by Mikey at DPM about the sad passing of legendary route developer Flyin' Brian McCray from an apparent suicide: Brian’s impact on New River Gorge climbing cannot be over...
Wurm, Ondra Win 2014 Bouldering World Championships
After a thrilling battle Saturday night that saw both the men's and the women's competition come down to the final attempts by the final climbers, Adam Ondra and Juliane Wurm emerg...
Video Friday - 8/22/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
2014 Bouldering World Championships This Weekend In Munich
This weekend is the highly anticipated 2014 Bouldering World Championships in Munich, Germany. Several Americans will be joining a massive field full of the best male and female co...
Alex Honnold And The Relativity Of Risk
Alex Honnold, writing for Alpinist about his free solo of El Sendero Luminoso : That meant five more people who'd flown down and who were now waiting for me to solo a big wall. And...
Outdoor Retailer Summer 2014 Climbing Report
Nice recap by Splitter Choss of the recently completed 2014 Outdoor Retailer Summer Trade Show. I was actually able to make a brief stop at the show in between Psicocomp duties, bu...
Video Friday - 8/15/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
Did Psicocomp Just Make Speed Climbing Cool?
Justin Roth, writing on The Stone Mind about last week's Psicocomp : The 2014 Psicocomp ended up even more exciting than the 2013 version. Clearly the event organizers paid attenti...
Why Psicocomp Is The Best Competitive Climbing Event In North America
Alex Johnson is a big fan of the recently completed Psicocomp 1 . I was not aware of reason #11 until I read her post, but that is a pretty nice bonus.
Delaney Miller On Psicocomp
Delaney Miller, writing on Petzl's blog after finishing 2nd in the Psicocomp for the 2nd consecutive year: Rock climbing is my absolute passion and I consider myself incredibly luc...
5.14a Onsight By Kai Lightner
After getting knocked out of Friday night's Psicocomp in the first round by Jimmy Webb, Kai Lightner made his way to nearby Maple Canyon on Saturday where he had a big day accordin...
Project 360: The Eiger's North Face
Mammut is back again with another cool multimedia project, this time it's a 360 degree interactive photo/video tour of the legendary Eiger North Face . Cool stuff. Climbing.com has...
Buhrfeind, McColl Win 2014 Psicocomp
Claire Buhrfeind and Sean McColl emerge victorious at the 2014 Psicocomp
Live From 2014 Psicobloc Masters Psicocomp Finals
Tune in live tonight at 6:50 MDT for the final round of the 2014 Psicobloc Masters Series from Park City, UT
Video Friday - 8/8/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
2014 Psicobloc Masters Series Qualifiers & Instagram Dump
Qualifiers recap and Instagram dump from the 2014 Psicobloc Masters Series
Ondra, Röck Win 2014 Lead World In Imst
Adam Ondra and Magdalena Röck win the 2014 Lead World Cup stop in Imst, Austria
Hard Sends For Payne & Puccio In RMNP
The summer of 2014 continues to be dominated by headlines about women climbers pushing the limits of what has been done before, and last week that trend continued with hard sends b...
2014 IFSC Lead World Cup – Imst Live
The 2014 IFSC Lead World Cup continues this weekend with a stop in Imst, Austria
Video Friday - 8/1/2014
All the latest videos can be found here , but here are the top rated videos of the past week: Mile 18 One Week With Alex Megos Eli A First Ascent Strawberry Roan Sparkshop 2014 Ree...
Heather Weidner Repeats Stockboy's Revenge (5.14b)
Heather Weidner, writing on her blog after completing her first 5.14b with a repeat of Andy Raether's Stockboy's Revenge (5.14b) in Rifle, CO: The crux of Stockboys is about 2/3 up...
Audrey Sniezek Repeats Lost World (5.14b)
Audrew Sniezek, writing on her blog about how she juggles a full-time job and sending 5.14b with her recent repeat of Lost World at Little Si, WA: The early morning routine, if you...
The Time Value Of Climbing Ability
It's like the past 15 years of my climbing life are flashing before my eyes each time I re-read this post on the Rock Climber's Training Manual blog : For many climbers, the unrest...
Tamás Zupán's Path To V15
Nice piece on OnBouldering.com about Tamás Zupán's recent repeat of Daniel Woods' In Search Of Time Lost (V15): Back in Budapest, Tamás developed a special training regime, tailore...
Video Friday - 7/25/2014
Psicocomp news and the highest rated videos of the past week
Adam Ondra Climbs Biographie, World Barely Notices
A funny thing happened earlier this week: Adam Ondra "finally" repeated Biographie in Céüse and barely anyone seemed to notice.
1975
Sonnie Trotter : In 1975 three Rockies legends scoured The Bow Valley in search of the next great aid line. At the time, they were preparing themselves for a very early repeat of t...
First Ascents For Paul Robinson In South Africa
DPM caught up with Paul Robinson who spent the past couple of months exploring a newer area in South Africa called Three Corners: On my fourth trip , I was told vaguely about some...
Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition and Access Fund Offer Joint Membership
Big news for the Access Fund and the Red River Gorge: The Access Fund and Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) are excited to announce they have combined forces to offer joi...
2014 IFSC Lead World Cup – Briançon Live
The 2014 IFSC Lead World Cup continues this weekend with a stop in Briançon, France
Video Friday - 7/18/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
7 In 7
Dave Allfrey, writing for Alpinist about his and Alex Honnold's recent efforts to climb El Capitan seven times in seven consecutive days: In the end I believe we found what we were...
"I'm going to send it today"
PlanetMountain caught up with Alex Megos after his one day ascent 1 of Biographie (5.15a): I warmed up by checking out the moves on Biographie, this took circa 1 hour. Then I start...
V13 And V14 For Mirko Caballero In Rocklands
Everyone who is anyone has been in South Africa the past couple months, and 13-year-old Mirko Caballero is among those who have been pushing their limits in Rocklands.
Another 5.14d Onsight For Adam Ondra
After another disappointing finish in a Lead World Cup in Chamonix where he failed to make it out of the qualifiers due to skipping a clip on the 2nd qualifier route, Adam Ondra ma...
Biographie In A Day By Alex Megos
In case we needed more evidence that Alex Megos is one of the top climbers in history, over the weekend he repeated Chris Sharma's Biographie (5.15a) in just one day. One. Day. Bio...
First V14 For Shauna Coxsey
Shauna Coxsey notches her first V14
V13 And V14 For Ashima Shiraishi In Rocklands
Busy week for 13-year-old Ashima Shiraishi in Rocklands, South Africa
Video Friday - 7/11/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
Jonathan Siegrist's Story On Biographie
Footage of Jonathan Siegrist on Biographie
Second In The World
Shauna Coxsey, reflecting on her 2nd place finish in this year's Bouldering World Cup: I finished second in the World. I am happy with that result. I am content with the season as...
V13s For Puccio, Coxsey & Raboutou
It was a busy week for women repeating V13s as Brooke Raboutou, Shauna Coxsey and Alex Puccio all added a v13 (or two) to their ticklists
Video Friday - 7/4/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
3rd Free Ascent Of PreMuir By Elias & Kerzhner
Rock & Ice caught up with Sam Elias after he and Mike Kerzhner did the 3rd free ascent of PreMuir (5.13+) on El Capitan in Yosemite, CA: He fired it . Then, so did I. It wasn’t rom...
First V13 For Alex Puccio: Top Notch
Since wrapping up her season on the World Cup Circuit three weeks ago in Vail, Alex Puccio has been keeping busy out on the real rocks around Colorado culminating with her notching...
V14 Comes To The Midwest?
Local crusher Jim Merli opens the Midwest's hardest boulder problem
Noguchi, Gelmanov Win Final Bouldering World Cup - Noguchi, Hojer Win Overall Title
Akiyo Noguchi and Rustam Gelmanov win the final Bouldering World Cup of the 2014 season
Video Friday - 6/27/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup – Laval Live
The 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup concludes this weekend with its 8th and final stop in Laval, France.
Sean McColl's Double Podium Weekend
Sean McColl, writing on his blog : I knew before this weekend started that it was going to be one of the hardest I’d ever have to endure. To compete in 3 disciplines in one weekend...
Nalle Hukkataival Climbs Hard Multipitch
Not content with climbing the hardest boulder problems in the world, Nalle Hukkataival decided to get in the multipitch game with a free ascent of the route Silbergeier in Rätikon,...
2014 Haiyang Boulder & Lead World Replays
Check out the replays from the most recent Lead & Bouldering World Cups in Haiyang, China
Waggoner Takes The Reins at USA Climbing
Climbing Business Journal : USA Climbing, the National Governing Body for Competition Climbing, is proud to announce that Kynan Waggoner has been named the Chief Executive Officer...
Kim, Schubert Win 2014 Lead World Cup In Haiyang
Jakob Schubert and Jain Kim win the opening event of the 2014 Lead World Cup
Noguchi, Hojer Win 2014 Bouldering World Cup In Haiyang
Akiyo Noguchi and Jan Hojer continue their brilliant 2014 Bouldering World Cup season with gold in Haiyan
Video Friday - 6/20/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
2014 IFSC Bouldering, Speed & Lead World Cup – Haiyang
The 2014 IFSC World Cup circuit continues this weekend in Haiyang, China with Bouldering, Lead and Speed events
First 5.14c For Nina Caprez
27 year-old Swiss climber Nina Caprez has done her first 5.14c with a repeat of Hélix au pays des merveilles at France's Pic Saint Loup: “I fell in love”, Nina raves about the line...
Five Ten Camp Four Shoe
Nice review of my favorite non-climbing pair of shoes I own, the Five Ten Camp Four : It’s nice to have a few time-tested items in your arsenal that you can simply order brand new...
Video Friday - 6/13/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
On The Circuit
Nice piece by the inimitable BearCam for Rock & Ice about the incredible concentration of hard bouldering along Bear Lake Road in Rocky Mountain National Park: Bear Lake Road is Ro...
Psicobloc Masters Series Returns August 6-8
Exciting news : Today the Psicobloc Masters Series announced the schedule of events for the Psicobloc (Spanish for “crazy bouldering,” or what is commonly referred to as “deep-wate...
Noguchi, Sharafutdinov Win 2014 Bouldering World Cup In Vail
Noguchi and Sharafutdinov win gold in Vail while American Megan Mascarenas places 4th in her first World Cup finals
2014 Vail Bouldering World Cup Qualifier Results
Results from the qualifying round of the 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup at the GoPro Mountain Games
Video Friday - 6/6/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup – Vail Live
The 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup resumes this weekend with its annual stop in Vail, CO at the GoPro Mountain Games.
"Like a banshee"
Jonathan Siegrist, in an email exchange with Rock & Ice regarding his recent repeat of Biographie : R&I: Did you scream like Sharma when you stuck the jug near the top? JS: Like a...
Jonthan Siegrist Repeats Biographie (5.15a)
After a prolonged battle, Jonathan Siegriest has completed his hardest redpoint to date with a repeat of Chris Sharma's Biographie (5.15a) in Céüse, France.
Just Do It
Paige Claassen, writing on her blog about her recent send of Just Do It (5.14c): Just Do It was the culmination of all those years of practice. No more half committed efforts. No m...
Paige Claassen Repeats Just Do It (5.14c)
Paige Claassen becomes the first woman to climb the iconic Just Do It
Noguchi, Glairon Mondet Win 2014 Bouldering World Cup In Toronto
Akiyo Noguchi and Guillaume Glarion-Mondet win the 2014 IFSC Bouldering Cup in Toronto
2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup – Toronto Live
The 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup circuit resumes this weekend in Toronto, Canada
Video Friday - 5/30/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
The Climbing Accident That Almost Killed Me
Sobering story on CruxCrush : I did not always climb with a helmet, and my life changed forever when a large block of rock fell on my head. The resulting traumatic brain injury alm...
Video Friday - 5/23/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
Mountain Project App Goes Free
Black Diamond PR on their new partnership with Mountain Project's mobile app: Black Diamond Equipment®, a global innovator in climbing, skiing, mountain sports equipment and appare...
Adam Ondra Onsighting 5.14d
Amazing video .
Muir Valley To Be Gifted To Climbing Community
Muir Valley, one of the most popular areas in the Red River Gorge, is being gifted by its owners to the climbing community
Two V15s In A Day By Sachi Amma
Japanese climber Sachi Amma repeats two V15s in one day
Coxsey, Fischhuber Win 2014 Bouldering World Cup In Innsbruck
The 4th stop on the 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup circuit took place this weekend in Innsbruck, Austria with Shauna Coxsey winning her 2nd consecutive gold medal and Kilian Fischh...
Video Friday - 5/16/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup – Innsbruck Live
The 2014 Bouldering World Cup continues this weekend in Innsbruck, Austria
Melissa Le Nevé Repeats World's First 5.14b
PlanetMountain has the interview with Melissa Le Nevé after she became the first woman to climb the first 5.14b in the world, Wolfgang Güllich's Wallstreet in Germany's Frankenjura...
Jeff Lowe
John Meyer, writing in The Denver Post about climbing legend Jeff Lowe : A legendary mountain climber renowned for his athleticism, grace and creativity in the 1970s and 1980s, Low...
Petzl RocTrip Photo Contest
Cool contest going on right now by Petzl to win a trip to the Antalya, Turkey portion of the upcoming 2014 Petzl RocTrip . Mrs. Narc and I went to Antalya at the end of 2012 , and...
Coxsey, Hojer Win 2014 Bouldering World Cup In Grindelwald
The 3rd stop on the 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup circuit took place this weekend in Grindelwald, Switzerland with Germany's Jan Hojer winning his 2nd gold medal of the season and...
2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup – Grindelwald Live
The 3rd stop on the 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup takes place this weekend in Grindelwald, Switzerland
Video Friday - 5/9/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
Drones Banned In Yosemite
Bad news from NBC for any of you filmmakers out there that were hoping to use one of those new fangled drone cameras in Yosemite: The U.S. National Park Service issued the unmanned...
The Day Tommy Caldwell Sent The Salathe Wall In A Day
Great piece by Tommy Caldwell about how he climbed El Cap's Salathe Wall in a day just months after losing his finger in a home improvement accident: But in the blink of an eye, it...
Action Directe (5.14d) In A Day By Alex Megos
PlanetMountain caught up with Alex Megos after he repeated the legendary Action Directe (5.14d) in just a few hours this past weekend: Yes, the thought had occurred to me but I the...
2nd 5.14d Onsight For Adam Ondra
Another 5.14d onsight for Adam Ondra
Stöhr, Sharafutdinov Win 2014 Bouldering World Cup In Baku
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov and Anna Stöhr win the 2nd Bouldering World Cup of 2014 in Baku, Azerbaijan
2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup – Baku Live
The 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup circuit continues with live coverage from Baku, Azerbaijan
Nalle Hukkataival Does Bügeleisen Sit
Nalle Hukkataival has finished a long term project with his FA of the sit start to Klem Loskot’s Bügeleisen
Video Friday - 5/2/2014
Video Friday in just a second, but first a few notes about the site that you may or may not care about.
FA Of Gepresster Hase (V15) By Martin Keller
Nice write up by Martin Keller about his recent FA of Gepresster Hase , a proposed V15 in Sustenpass, Switzerland: But after a wild party night (till 3am) I finally got this one tr...
Sufferfest 2
Climbing.com has a nice report on the recent "Sufferfest 2" undertaken by Alex Honnold & Cedar Wright: Now they have completed Sufferfest 2, a 700-mile ride through Canyonlands in...
Musta Been High
Heather Weidner, writing on her blog about her recent repeat of the notorious trad line Musta Been High (5.13 R) in Eldorado Canyon: Some might say I Musta Been High to climb this...
Prana Living, Yoga Gear Maker, Is Sold to Columbia Sportswear
Interesting news today about one of my favorite companies: On Tuesday, Prana Living, a yoga gear maker, was sold to Columbia Sportswear for $190 million. Prana will join Columbia’s...
It’s “Wash, Rinse, Repeat” In Europe For Jimmy Webb
Jimmy Webb has been busy in Switzerland and Austria
DRAWN
Jeremy Collins has long been one of my favorite artists in the outdoor world. In fact, Mrs. Narc and I have a print of his hanging over our fireplace, and it's one of my favorite t...
Wurm, Hojer Win First 2014 Bouldering World Cup
Germans Juliane Wurm and Jan Hojer win the first bouldering World Cup of the 2014 season
Video Friday - 4/25/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week..
2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup - Chongqing Live
The 2014 Bouldering World Cup season gets underway this weekend in Chongqing, China
Save Getu
Bad news about potential future development in Getu, China, an area made famous in climbing circles by the 2011 Petzl Roc Trip : Unfortunately the peaceful environment I recalled f...
Interviewed By Crux Crush
After a brief vacation to Spain I'm back in the States trying to get caught up on everything 1 . Until I can get fully caught up, you can enjoy this interview I did with Crux Crush...
Video Friday - 4/11/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Viva Peñoles
The first two episodes in the Viva Peñoles series featuring Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, Jimmy Webb, Paul Robinson and Diego Montull
The Moment
Something weird happened this weekend at SCS Nationals: I actually liked speed climbing
Weaver, Miller Win At 2014 SCS Nationals
Final results from 2014 SCS Nationals held at Sender One in Santa Ana, CA
Live From 2014 SCS Nationals Finals
Live Coverage of the final round of 2014 SCS Nationals from Sender One in Santa Ana, CA
Live From 2014 SCS Nationals Qualifiers
Live coverage of the qualifying round of the 2014 Sport Climbing Series National Championships
Video Friday - 04/04/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
2014 SCS Nationals Streaming Live This Weekend
2014 SCS Nationals will be broadcast live from Sender One this Friday and Saturday
2014 Red Rock Rendezvous Trip Report – Part 2
Part 2 of my trip to the 2014 Red Rock Rendezvous
Tommy Caldwell: What I've Learned
Tommy Caldwell, writing in Rock & Ice : My greatest hardship would be the ordeal in Kyrgyzstan where four of us were kidnapped by Islamic militants for six days. It’s a long, compl...
2014 Red Rock Rendezvous Trip Report - Part 1
Part 1 of my trip to the 2014 Red Rock Rendezvous
Video Friday - 3/28/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Seven
This site is over 7 years old...
Live Interview With Daniel Woods Tonight
Yours truly will be conducting a live interview with Daniel Woods tonight as part of the LT11. tv Live Talkshow series. Catch it here at 7 PM EDT, 4PM PDT. We'll be covering a lot...
Jimmy Webb Doing What Jimmy Webb Does In Switzerland (Updated)
After a stellar trip last year, Jimmy Webb is back in Switzerland with similar results.
Productive Trip To Spain For Ashima Shiraishi
Ashima Shiraishi ticks multiple 5.14s during her trip to Spain
First V14 For Mirko Caballero
Mirko Caballero tops out his first V14 at the age of 13
Adventure Rock Opening 2nd Location
There are a lot of new gyms opening around the country these days, but the announcement this week that my home gym, Adventure Rock, is opening a 2nd location later this year was re...
Video Friday - 3/21/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
What Girls Think (About Climbing With Dudes)
These are the true stories of female climbers--from five-year old girls who only climb the routes in the gym that have purple tape, to professional female climbers who have establi...
"If you love to fish, you fish"
So many gems in this Ascent article by Dave Graham it was hard to pick my favorite, but this part really stuck with me: I used to come home from fishing by myself and wonder what I...
3rd Ascent Of Mission Impossible By Mark Anderson
Rock & Ice has the story on Mark Anderson's 3rd ascent of Daniel Woods' Mission Impossible (5.14c-ish) at Clear Creek Canyon, CO: A self-proclaimed "weekend warrior," the 36-year-o...
Chasing Goals Not Grades
Nice interview by Crux Crush with Alex Puccio: I want to push myself outside. I haven’t tried many V13s so maybe I’ll try to do my first V13, but I don’t like chasing a grade. I li...
2014 CWIF Streaming Live This Weekend
Catch live coverage of the 2014 Climbing Works International Festival this Sunday
Video Friday - 3/14/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
More Details On Death Of Mark Hesse
Longtime climber and conservationist Mark Hesse died while climbing at the Boulder Rock Club this past January, but until this week it was unclear what actually caused his death. W...
International Women's Day
I enjoyed reading these interviews the American Alpine Club did with Emily Harrington, Paige Claassen, Melissa Arnot, Sibylle Hechetel, Janet Bergman Wilkinson and Jenn Fleming ove...
2014 Red Rock Rendezvous
Registration is open for the 2014 Red Rock Rendezvous
Video Friday - 3/7/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
The Hidden Industry Of Hold Manufacturing
Interesting piece in Climbing Business Journal about the industry behind many of the holds we pull down on in gyms around the country: For some hold companies, there seems to be no...
For Climbing's Indoor Champions, Will The Great Outdoors Become Irrelevant?
Interesting question raised by Chris Weidner in his column for Boulder's Daily Camera with regard to the possibility of someone winning a comp like ABS Nationals without climbing o...
His Life In His Hands
Interesting profile of Alex Honnold in Men's Fitness by Josh Dean that includes this tidbit on that building climb that was first announced last July: And yet, the checks keep gett...
The Day I Did Not Send Joe Blau
Greg Kerzhner, writing about his efforts to send Joe Blau in Oliana, Spain: A sad feeling comes. Like this is my one chance to finish this thing, the one thing I really cared about...
Video Friday - 2/28/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
Charlie Porter
Great interview from Rock & Ice's archives with legendary climber and alpinist Charlie Porter who passed away recently at the age of 63: To an idealistic youth, who believe in hone...
Fred Nicole: A Climbing Trip To Patagonia
Fred Nicole is still out there exploring new bouldering areas at the age of 43, this time in Patagonia : The rock is beautiful and compact. In places it reminds me of a quartzite a...
3rd Ascent Of Gioia (V16) By Nalle Hukkataival
We often joke that Adam Ondra might be a robot based on his out-of-this-world ticklist, but I'm starting to think that if any of the top climbers is a robot it might be Nalle Hukka...
Woods, Wurm Win 2014 ABS Nationals Bouldering Championship
Final results from 2014 ABS Nationals
Live From 2014 ABS Nationals Finals
Tune in this Saturday night at 7:30 PM MST for live coverage of Men's & Women's Finals at 2014 ABS Nationals in Colorado Springs, CO
Live From 2014 ABS Nationals Semi-finals
Tune in this Saturday morning at 11 am MST for live coverage of Men's & Women's Semi-finals at 2014 ABS Nationals in Colorado Springs, CO
Live From 2014 ABS Nationals Men's Qualifiers
Tune in this afternoon at 3 pm MST for live coverage of Men's Qualifiers at 2014 ABS Nationals in Colorado Springs, CO
Live From 2014 ABS Nationals Women’s Qualifiers
Tune in this morning at 9 am MST for live coverage of Women's Qualifiers at 2014 ABS Nationals in Colorado Springs, CO
Video Friday - 2/21/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
What I Know Now
Cool piece on The Stone Mind where a number of climbers share things they wish they had known when they started climbing. I think I most identified with what Fitz Cahall had to say...
Honnold & Caldwell Pull Off "Mother Of All Traverses" In Patagonia
Rolando Garibotti, reporting in a post on SuperTopo : Between the 12th and 16th of February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed "Fitz...
2014 ABS Nationals Streaming Live Friday & Saturday
Schedule for this weekend's ABS Nationals which will be streamed live in its entirety
Climbing Edition Of The Stars Are Just Like Us
Jakob Schubert, in a photo posted to Facebook during his current visit to Hueco Tanks: In the end it wasn't worth it though, at the second to last move I heard a loud noise and hop...
Video Friday - 2/14/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
Man Makes History By Climbing 1,500-Foot El Sendero Luminoso With No Net
Not The Onion : In January, Honnold made history by becoming the first person to ever scale El Sendero Luminoso (Mexico) without the help of other climbers or safety equipment. Tha...
Steven Roth & Ethan Pringle Go Big
Alex Honnold's boulder problem free solo Too Big To Flail , which was featured in 2012's Reel Rock 7, has seen a lot of action of late. First up was Lonnie Kauk who repeated the pr...
Climbing Past My Pregnancy Stigma
Excellent first post in a series by Beth Rodden who is expecting her first child soon: When I first found out I was pregnant, I did a ton of research to see what other climbers exp...
Video Friday - 2/7/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
Terje Haakonsen: Why I Still Hate The Olympics
Pro Snowboarder Terje Haakonsen is not a fan of the Olympics : If anything I feel even more strongly about it today. When I was younger, I was just thinking about snowboarding, but...
The True Story of the Carderock Killing
Great reporting by Sid Balman, Jr. on the bizarre alleged murder that took place at Maryland's Carderock at the end of 2012. The piece does go off the rails a bit and the end, howe...
Adam Ondra Repeats First Round, First Minute (5.15b)
Spoiler alert: Adam Ondra climbs another really hard sport route
Video Friday - 1/31/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
No Getting Out
Once you enter this family, there's no getting out.
Fire Hits The Grampians...Again
Another year of fires in Australia : How long the northern Grampians will remained closed is anyone’s guess. Parks Victoria will have to go in and assess the damage and replace any...
Daniel Woods Does Repeat Lucid Dreaming
Daniel Woods repeats Lucid Dreaming
Outdoor Retailer Winter Market 2014 Climbing Report
On a more serious Outdoor Retailer note, Splitter Choss has their usual lowdown on a few of the new items shown off during the recent Outdoor Retailer Winter Market including a new...
The Death Of Plaid?
Dark times: For the past three Outdoor Retailer shows, I’ve blogged about the longstanding prevalence of plaid shirts in the outdoor industry. This year, I was burned out; I didn’t...
Video Friday - 1/24/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
10 Questions With Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson
Nice interview with Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson by The Adventure Journal: I think if climbers took a moment to learn more about what we do, how much we accomplish...
El Sendero Luminoso Q & A With Alex Honnold
Alpinist caught up with Alex Honnold for a little Q & A about his recent free solo of El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico, Mexico: I used to be scared of spiders but I kind of...
Listening For The Echo
Really nice profile by Chris Schulte for Rock & Ice of the legendary Klem Loskot: These shouts have been in our heads since the year 2000, when Loskot’s marshaling call hit the Sta...
2014 Comp Season In Full Swing
A look at a handful of upcoming climbing comps including the Hueco Rock Rodeo, ABS and SCS Nationals and more
Chris Webb Parsons. Representing.
Really nice interview by Simon Carter with Aussie Chris Webb Parsons: Oh, my thumb. I use it like another finger. When I first started climbing I was reading about how to get stron...
Video Friday - 1/17/2014
The highest rated videos of the past week
Like A Ballerina
Alex Honnold, after soloing the sustained 1,500+ ft. 5.12 El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico, Mexico: “It felt pretty straight forward,” he says. “Once I started up, I was lik...
Climber Accused Of Murder In Carderock Death
Bizarre and sad story at Maryland's Carderock: A Virginia rock climber has been charged with manslaughter after allegedly attacking a man with a claw hammer at Carderock Park in Mo...
La Lune
After leaving empty handed last year, Jonathan Siegrist returns to Las Vegas and makes quick work of his project in Arrow Canyon, La Lune : I invested so much in this route and spe...
Bernd Zangerl Talks About Shantaram
UKC caught up with Bernd Zangerl to discuss his new problem Shantaram , which he opened this past summer in Norway: It is my hardest problem for sure - I can't compare it with anyt...
Video Friday - 1/10/2014
A few words on The DLFA film I saw recently and the highest rated videos of the past few weeks
The Day I Sent The Nest
Daniel Woods : On the day I sent The Nest, we first stopped at another project in this wash, which we had been walking by and looking at multiple times on our way to The Nest. In a...
Your Project Can Wait
Interesting picture over at the RV Project which seems to show damage to one of the more photogenic boulders at Tennessee's Little Rock City due to the possible use of a blowtorch....
Top 10 Access Victories Of 2013
2013 was a big year for the Access Fund.
The Day I Sent
Cool new series from Andrew Bisharat on his blog Evening Sends called The Day I Sent which features a guest author writing about a meaningful ascent they did. The latest installmen...
Video Friday - Top 10 Highest Rated & Most Viewed Videos Of 2013
The top climbing videos of 2013 based on your votes and views
Video Friday - 12/20/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
New V15 In Red Rock By Daniel Woods & Jimmy Webb
Daniel Woods & Jimmy Webb swoop in to Red Rock Canyon and establish The Nest
Caldwell Frees (A) Crux Pitch On Dawn Wall Project
Tommy Caldwell finally frees one of the crux pitches on the Dawn Wall project
America's Best 5.14s
Lists are all the rage on the internet these days and they are usually pretty much the worst thing ever. Then there is this list of the best 5.14s in America compiled by Jonathan S...
Keeping It All In Perspective
Nice interview over at Crux Crush with one of my favorite people in the climbing world, Angie Payne: If I could climb all the time? I wouldn’t. It’s really easy when I’m working al...
Send Train On The Shining Path
Nalle Hukkataival, Daniel Woods & Jimmy Webb run train on an amazing highball in Nevada
Live Talkshow Podcast
The LT11.tv Live Talk Show is now available in podcast form
Ganesh
Paige Claassen , after making the FFA of the amazing looking route Ganesh (5.14) in Badami, India: Ganesh would become the inspiration behind Lead Now . I wanted to climb some of t...
[Sponsor] Black Diamond Apparel
My thanks to Black Diamond for sponsoring a portion of this site the past couple of months to promote their new men's clothing line . I had the chance to check out much of the new...
Video Friday - 12/13/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
La Dura Complete
Something happened to me over the weekend that hasn't happened in some time: I was blown away watching a climbing movie
The Nose Wipe
Dave Campbell, as to why he got involved in the annual clean up effort on El Cap appropriately named "The Nose Wipe": Yvon Chouinard sums it up well in the movie 180° South : “The...
Alex Honnold & Peter Croft Video Interview
Video interview with Alex Honnold & Peter Croft
That Didn't Take Long
Jimmy Webb & Daniel Woods repeat Meadowlark Lemon in Red Rock, NV
Video Friday - 12/6/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Adam Ondra's Hardest Routes In Flatanger
Nice piece by Rannevig Aamodt in Rock & Ice about Adam Ondra's work this past summer in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway: Hours later I was startled awake by Ondra standi...
Third 5.15c FA By Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has done his 3rd 5.15c FA 1 with the FA of Vasil Vasil at Sloup in his native Czech Republic. Ondra comments on the route in this interview with UKC : It might be weird...
Is Your Gym Guilty Of Music Piracy?
Interesting : At this very moment, climbing gyms across America are pumping pop, rock, reggae and other background music into their facilities to entertain customers while they cli...
Leslie Timms Repeats Sacred Geometry (5.13c)
Somewhat of a quiet season down in the Red River Gorge this fall, especially compared to last year , but one notable thing that caught my eye was this excellent post by Leslie Timm...
How Climbing Fits
Ty Landman, in an interview with UKC about a recent FA he did in the UK: I think an important part of climbing is figuring out what the sport means to you, and where and how it fit...
Toshi Takeuchi Repeats Meadowlark Lemon (V15)
Toshi Takeuchi has done the 4th ascent of Paul Robinson's Meadowlark Lemon (V15) in Red Rock, NV, his first of the grade and just his fourth V14 or harder. With the likes of Jimmy...
2013 La Sportiva Legends Only Live
Watch the 2013 La Sportiva Legends competition live today at 2pm EST
Video Friday - 11/29/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Access Fund Holiday Packs
The 2013 edition of the always popular Access Fund Holiday Packs are now on sale . Give someone (or yourself) the gift of access this holiday season and they can get some nice bonu...
First 5.14d For Muriel Sarkany
39-year-old Muriel Sarkany has added her name to a short list of women to climb 5.14d with her repeat of Punt-X in France's Gorges du Loup last week. Her comments to 8a : It is a d...
Story Behind The Image: Three Degrees of Chris Sharma
Really enjoyed this story from Corey Rich about how he came to capture some images of Chris Sharma on his unrepeated route Three Degrees Of Separation in Ceuse, France: The real st...
Video Friday - 11/22/2013
The highest rated videos of the week...
Remember First Round First Minute?
Brief video of First Round First Minute getting some action this week...
#honnolding
The trend that is sweeping the climbing world...
Sender One To Host 2014 SCS Nationals
2014 SCS Nationals to be held at Sender One
Another New V15 From Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods adds another new V15 to his ticklist
Adam Ondra Nominated For Adventurer Of The Year
Nice interview with Adam Ondra by Fitz Cahall as part of Ondra's being nominated for Nat Geo's Adventurer of the Year: I think sport climbing is still a relatively young sport. Not...
Human Error Blamed For Grapevine Climbing Wall Death
Back in September a woman fell to her death while climbing at a gym in Texas, and as speculated at the time it was due to improper use of the gym's auto belay equipment: In the rep...
Video Friday - 11/15/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
The Bourbon Family Tree
If it happens in Kentucky then it's climbing related, right? Right ?
That One Time I Made A Semi Viral Climbing Video
The story behind that funny Reel Rock spoof you may have seen featuring a raccoon failing to ascend a feeder: I shared it a couple times on my Facebook profile and page as well as...
Educate For Access
Joe Kinder, on his time at the Educate For Access event held recently in New York: In some ways I am the wrong person to speak about this… I mean HELL, I thought I knew all the eti...
More On Alex Honnold's Skyscraper Climb
Me , back in July when it was announced that Alex Honnold would be soloing a building on live TV this fall 1 : Then again, Honnold has always struck me as being rather pragmatic an...
The Professionals
Justin Roth, writing on The Stone Mind : From what I’ve seen, however, the professional climber’s life is less glamorous than many imagine and more like the jobs that most of us wo...
White Noise Repeated By Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson has done the 4th ascent of Daniel Woods' White Noise (V15) in Wild Basin, RMNP, CO, commenting on his 8a scorecard : 2 days. 4th ascent. had some of the most perfect...
Jimmy Webb: Fear The Beard
More of the same from Jimmy Webb
Video Friday - 11/8/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Can Climbers Think More Clearly About Ethics?
Peter Beal weighs in on Junipergate: I think Joe has received enough of a shellacking from everyone else and I consider him a friend so I am not going to deliver a sermon on why cu...
The Nose In A Day And Freerider In 3
Hazel Findlay, after doing her third free route on El Cap: Having freed three lines on El Cap now, with Freerider supposedly the easiest, I have to say that there really isn’t an e...
Dawn Wall 2013: So You're Telling Me There's A Chance
Don't write off the 2013 Dawn Wall season just yet...
Review & Giveaway: Patagonia's Rover Shoe
A look at the new Rover shoes from Patagonia as well as an opportunity for you to win a free pair!
Ondra, Kim Win In Valence
Adam Ondra puts the rest of the World Cup circuit on notice: Valence in France: this was the stage chosen by Adam Ondra to celebrate his return to the Lead World Cup after three ye...
Daniel Woods Does His Hardest Boulder Yet
After doing the original earlier this year, Daniel Woods has done a low start to Dave Graham's The Ice Knife (Once V15, now seems to be V14) at Guanella Pass, CO to yield what he c...
Foundation's Edge
Dave Graham, writing for The Island about his FA of Foundation's Edge in Fionnay, Switzerland: It was an awesome climb. I battled it out, got super pumped, and didn't kill myself f...
Making Changes
Moving forward all discussions on this site will be handle by a new Discourse-powered discussion forum
Tommy Caldwell Injured, Off Dawn Wall Project
Tommy Caldwell, writing on The Facebook : Disaster strikes! Haul bag took a 200 plunge while clipped to the back of my harness. Hauling hook fail. It was a bit jarring. Looks like...
2013 IFSC Lead World Cup – Valence Live
Adam Ondra's return to the Lead World Cup circuit seems as good a time as any to get back on the bandwagon and check out some of the world's best sport climbers as they compete thi...
Video Friday - 11/1/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
New Bloc Times
The bouldering in Australia's Grampians, and the sector Buandik in particular, has gotten wide attention the past couple of years as climbers like Nalle Hukkataival, Dave Graham, D...
Paul Robinson Repeats Jaws II
After having done five 5.14's including the only repeat of Dave Graham's 5.14+ Psychedelic , Paul Robinson took it up a notch with a repeat of Jaws II (5.15a) in Rumney, NH yesterd...
2013 Dawn Wall Season Thus Far
Photo updates from Kevin Jorgeson of the first two weeks of Dawn Wall 2013 with Tommy Caldwell and Chris Sharma
More Hard Flashes By Jimmy Webb
Jimmy Webb continues his great 2013 with more hard flashes in Leavenworth
Three 5.14d's In One Day By...Guess Who
Adam Ondra is set to compete in the upcoming Lead World Cups in Valence, France and in Kranj, Slovenia , but before doing that he's made a stop in the Frankenjura where he's done t...
Video Friday - 10/25/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
5.14c For Eva Lopez
Great to see this news about 42-year-old Eva Lopez repeating Potemkin , a 5.14c in Cuenca, Spain that she actually bolted but did not get the FA of.
Interview With Dorothea Karalus
Vertical Life catches up with Dorothea Karalus after her FA of In The Clouds (V12) in the Grampians: The boulder has two perfect and very obvious starting holds and follows a beaut...
Petzl Responds To Joe Kinder Situation
Petzl, one of Joe Kinder's sponsors, weighs in on Junipergate : But as actions speak louder than words, we're encouraged that in addition to paying a fine to the Forest Service, Jo...
Kinder Kind Of Climbers
In the nearly 1,000 posts about Junipergate on Supertopo I found at least one redeeming item in the form of this post on Wavehaven Adventures: If someone proclaims that they are th...
New V15 In Fionnay By Dave Graham
Dave Graham has succeeded in doing the FA of a long-time project of his in Fionnay, Switzerland that he's calling Foundation's Edge . Swiss granite rock has always suited Graham as...
Andrew Palmer Joins The 5.15 Club
DPM catches up with the relatively unknown Andrew Palmer after his repeat of Jaws II (5.15a) in Rumney, NH: I never really thought Jaws II was possible for me but it’s the next ind...
My Actions, My Responsibility, And My Mistake
Joe Kinder, writing on his blog about an incident that took place recently near Tahoe: To make a long story short, I was recently informed that I had done something wrong last mont...
Adam Ondra's Sabbatical
Nice interview with Adam Ondra reflecting on his 15 months as a full-time climber: No, I wasn’t tempted to . Because I know that if I didn’t have to be home to study, it would be h...
Video Friday - 10/18/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Seek And You Shall Find
Katie Lambert, writing on her blog about a summer spent climbing some of the hardest routes in one of my favorite places on Earth, Tuolumne: The exposure was surreal and it was sta...
A Project No More
Carlo Traversi does the FA of a long-standing project in Washington
Climbing Beyond Boehner's Reach
Freddie Wilkinson takes to the Op-Ed section of The New York Times to talk about how the government shutdown has affected the climbing scene in Yosemite: The most anticipated event...
V12 FA By Dorothea Karalus In The Grampians
Dorothea Karalus, writing on her blog about her FA of the stellar looking problem In The Clouds (V12) in the Grampians: On cloudy days attempts were usually thwarted by rain shower...
2013 Portland Boulder Rally Results
Results from the 2013 Portland Boulder Rally
Ueli Steck And Annapurna
PlanetMountain once again with the news making interview , this time with Ueli Steck after his incredible solo of the South Face of Annapurna: Everything calmed down. Just like I'd...
Video Friday - 10/11/2013
The 2013 Portland Boulder Rally and the highest rated videos of the past week
Yosemite Post-Shutdown
Cheyne Lempe, in an interview with Climbing.com, on what it is like in Yosemite now that most everyone has been forced to leave due to the government being shutdown: This past week...
Live From The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2013
Catch live streaming from the Kalymnos Climbing Festival
Making The Most Of A Bad Situation
Remember that one time that Chris Sharma was going to join Tommy Caldwell and crew for a season on Yosemite's Dawn Wall but couldn't because the government shut down and Yosemite w...
Wild Country Recall
Heads up if you own any Wild Country Rocks or Classic Rocks: For the safety of all of our customers we are issuing an immediate recall of certain batches of Wild Country Classic Ro...
News & Notes? - 10/8/2013
A few tidbits of bouldering news on Paul Robinson, Michael O'Rourke, Isabelle Faus and Thomasina Pidgeon from the past couple of weeks
More On Wide Boys' Cobra Crack Send
Really enjoyed this piece on The RV Project about the process behind Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker both repeating Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish, BC: Tom and Pete will be the firs...
Two 5.14's For Ashima Shiraishi In Kentucky
Ashima doing what Ashima does in Kentucky
Sisu Masters 2013 Live Stream
Last time I plugged the live streaming of a bouldering comp in Europe it didn't go very well , but let's try this again. On Saturday the Sisu Masters will stream live out of Helsin...
Video Friday - 10/4/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
More On Ten Sleep Shooting
Climbing.com has a followup on the bizarre shooting that took place a few weeks ago in Ten Sleep, WY: "We know not everybody is a bad guy, and we've gotten a lot of strong support...
"High Fives And Redbull"
Andrew Bisharat : Everyone knows that Instagram serves no purpose other than a way to make your life seem much cooler than it actually is to all your friends and/or followers, the...
2nd Ascent Of Art Attack (5.14b) By Paige Claassen
More success for Paige Claassen on the Lead Now tour
Government Shutdown Closes Climbing Areas Across the Country
The Access Fund has setup a page to make it easier for you to let Congress know how you feel about them shutting down the government and the National Parks we all pay for. The good...
Chris Sharma To Join Dawn Wall Team
So... this is happening (maybe...hopefully) : Chris Sharma will join Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, and Jonathan Siegrist for this fall's attempts on the Dawn Wall , a multi-year...
Productive Week In The Frankenjura For Gabri Moroni
Last week was a productive one for Italy's Gabri Moroni in the Frankenjura as he notched repeats of Sever The Wicked Hand (5.14d), The Elder Statesman (5.14d) and Classified (5.14d...
Visit To RMNP
Ever since the flood a few weeks back a lot of people have been wondering how RMNP and the boulders it holds fared during the big storm. Most of the Park reopened late this week,...
Video Friday - 9/27/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Guidebook To Minnesota Bouldering Coming Soon
A guidebook to the bouldering in Minnesota will be released next month
More 5.15s In Norway By Adam Ondra (Again)
It looks like Adam Ondra's season in Norway has come to an end, but not before he added two more 5.15s up there with the FAs of Hell Racer (5.15a) in Hell and Kangaroo's Limb (5.15...
Jens Monitor
This pretty much made my week.
Monte Carlo And The Quantification Of Effort
Interesting post by Jason Jordan about grades and how statistical modeling could be used to analyze something like the 8a.nu database to better understand how people quantify and p...
5.14 On Mt. Hooker
20 miles from the road, David Alfrey, Nik Berry and Mason Earle put up a free route on Wyoming's Mt. Hooker with difficulties up to 5.14a: "The rock is incredible for alpine stone,...
Sendtember In Full Effect On The Front Range
Busy times along the Front Range as hard sends are going down at Rifle, Guanella Pass and Mt. Evans from the likes of Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Matty Hong and Jimmy Webb
Bel Succcesso
Final update from Dave MacLeod on his and Alan Cassidy's attempts to climb Bellavista in the Italian Dolomites: However, we had one day left. I just wanted to get the gear back and...
Taming The Cobra
Nice piece by Brits Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker about their successful ascents of Sonnie Trotter's Cobra Crack (5.14-) in Squamish, BC: So where does this leave us, three weeks...
Video Friday - 9/20/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Reel Rock 8 Kicks Off Tonight
Reel Rock 8 kicks off tonight in Boulder, CO with the premier of this year's film as well as a live interview show with Reel Rock guests!
Sender Films' Reel Rock 8: Peaks Behind The Screens
Great in depth piece in Boulder Weekly about Sender Films, Big Up Productions and the Reel Rock Film Tour which kicks off its 8th edition on September 19th. Tons of great nuggets a...
Save Oak Flat
Shit: There is a vote scheduled for this Thursday, September 19th in the US House of Representatives on legislation that would trade away the popular Oak Flat climbing area in Ariz...
Climber Shot In Ten Sleep
While the good news I shared this morning from Ten Sleep is still great news, this is not great news out of Ten Sleep : Around 2:00 a.m. on Monday, September 16, a climber from Ecu...
El Cap Report Returns For Fall 2013 Season
It's baaaaack : So take a break Cupcakes, Cubicle Pukes, Internet Climbers, and get ready for today’s report … ditch the kids, the spouse, the pets… because this is your time to he...
Bellavista
Bellavista , Alex Huber's route with difficulties up to 5.14b on the north face of Cima Ovest in the Italian Dolomites, got a lot of press earlier this summer when Sasha DiGiulian...
Behind The Founding Of The Bighorn Climber's Coalition
Nice piece on DPM about an important step being taken to form a climber's coalition for the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming which are home to the increasingly popular Ten Sleep Canyon...
Boulder Flood
What else is there to say about the flooding that has taken place all along Colorado's Front Range the past few days that hasn't already been said?
adidas Rockstars 2013 Live
Tune in here Saturday, September 14th at 1:15 PM EDT to catch Finals of the 2013 adidas Rockstars live from the Porsche Arena in Stuttgart, Germany
Video Friday - 9/13/2013
Some thoughts on the live interview project I worked on last week as well as the highest rated videos of the past week
Why Do Women Cry At The Crag?
Paige Claassen : Over the last few months, I’ve found myself sitting at the base of a project, crying, more and more often. Crying over a rock climb is the worst. The actual crying...
Man And Superman
Malcolm Gladwell, writing for The New Yorker : What we are watching when we watch élite sports, then, is a contest among wildly disparate groups of people, who approach the startin...
Maybe Alex Megos Is Human After All?
In many ways German phenom Alex Megos seems like a robot sent from another planet to climb all our hardest routes and boulder problems without making much of a fuss about it, but t...
More V15s At Lincoln Lake For Webb, Woods
You know what they say, a V15 a day keeps the doctor away
A Summer In Africa
Nice recap with pictures by the UK's Mina Leslie-Wujastyk of her six week trip to Rocklands which saw her climb 8 V11s and 1 V12, but not that V12: One sad thing was the closure of...
More 5.14s In Idaho From Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegriest has wrapped up a successful trip to the Fins in southeast Idaho, adding a few new 5.14s to what is becoming a pretty fully developed wall for hard face climbing:...
Wrestling Voted Back Into Olympics
In news that is about as surprising as the fact that Apple will announce a new iPhone later today, wrestling has been voted back into the Olympics : The International Olympic Commi...
DPM Issue 25 & Free iPad Copy Of Climbing
A bunch of free magazine reading for you today with the release of the latest issue of Deadpoint Magazine as well as the offer of a free download of August's issue of Climbing on a...
Ondra, Markovic Win Arco Rock Legends 2013
Congrats to Adam Ondra and Mina Markovic who were awarded the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award at this past weekend's Arco Rock Legends ceremony in Arco, Ita...
Video Friday - 9/6/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
New 5.14 By Sonnie Trotter
Always nice to see Sonnie Trotter in the news : Sonnie Trotter has just completed his summer project, Castles in the Sky , on Castle Mountain in the Canadian Rockies. The bolted ro...
New V15 At Lincoln Lake By Jimmy Webb
Jimmy Webb continues his strong form by doing the FA of a probable V15 at Lincoln Lake
On The Anniversary Of The Death Of Wolfgang Güllich
Interesting look back on Wolfgang Güllich who died in a car accident on August 29, 1992: Apart from Ben Moon’s Hubble – which, though graded 8c+/34 Wolfgang always thought of as a...
European Bouldering Championship: Fischhuber And Stöhr Win In Eindhoven
How unsurprising : On Sunday night at Eindhoven (The Netherlands) the Austrians Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber won the European Bouldering Championship 2013. If you didn't catch...
2013 European Bouldering Championships Live This Weekend
The 2013 European Bouldering Championships are this weekend in Eindhoven, Netherlands and all the action will be streamed live throughout the weekend
Video Friday - 8/30/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Chris Sharma Conquers La Dura Dura
Interesting piece by Andrew Bisharat for Prana looking at Chris Sharma's journey to climb La Dura Dura (5.15c): Some five years ago, La Dura Dura didn’t exist other than as a simpl...
Being Alex Megos
Nice interview with Alex Megos by Nick Fletcher: Watching Alex climb is like watching an elite athlete running or swimming (for example). There’s no discernible effort – yet you kn...
Stöhr, Sharafutdinov Win 2013 Bouldering World Cup
Anna Stöhr and Dmitrii Sharafutdinov win the 2013 Bouldering World Cup
Annual Hound Ears Comp Cancelled
Bad news for fans of the annual bouldering comp that has taken place for 19 years at Hound Ears in North Carolina: For 19 years, the Hound Ears Club has graciously allowed one of t...
12-Year-Old Ashima Shiraishi Repeats The Automator (V13)
As usual these days, if it doesn't happen on Instagram it didn't happen. The it in this case is 12-year-old Ashima Shiraishi making a quick 2 day repeat of The Automator (V13) in R...
Manslaughter Charges Filed In Tito Traversa Accident
DPM does some rough translation work on this article , published in an Italian newspaper, which indicates that five people have apparently been served with manslaughter charges in...
Footage Of Adam Ondra's FA Of Move
Do not adjust your computer. This is just how fast Adam Ondra climbs these days. On a related note: could anyone else make something like the bottom part of Move look so easy yet h...
2013 IFSC Bouldering World Cup – Munich Live
Watch the 2013 Bouldering World Cup in Munich, Germany live
Video Friday - 8/23/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Caldwell, Mills Climb First 5.14 On The Diamond
Impressive: Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills have redpointed the first 5.14 route up the Diamond on Longs Peak, the premier granite wall in Colorado's high mountains. The two free-clim...
Yet Another 5.15 In Flatanger For Adam Ondra
Once again Adam Ondra has established a route in the mid-5.15 range in the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway, this time with the route he's calling Move . Here's how he descri...
Mario Richard Dies In BASE Jump Accident
Sad news: Mario Richard, husband of rock climber Steph Davis, died August 18 while wingsuit flying in Italy's Dolomites. Mrs. Narc and I have a small connection to Steph having met...
Between Rocklands And A Hard Place
Why??? Discarded climbing tape and litter are an everyday find at the climbing areas; faeces and toilet paper are hidden in caves and under rocks; and huge tick lines and graffiti...
First 5.14d In Australia By Alex Megos
Great report with pictures from Simon Carter detailing how visiting climber Alex Megos ushered in Australia's first 5.14d with his FA of Retired Extremely Dangerous in the Blue Mou...
New V14 In Chaos Canyon By Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods' "boner arms" seem to have recovered quite well after his 2nd place finish at the Psicobloc Masters Series as he established a new V14 in the far reaches of Chaos Cany...
Watch 2013 IFSC Youth World Championships Live 8/16-19
Coverage starts Friday morning at 9:20 PDT.
Video Friday - 8/16/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Kids Rule In Magic Wood
27 Crags has a nice recap of what the kids have been up to in Magic Wood, Switzerland over the past few weeks with the highlight being a repeat of One Summer In Paradise (V13) by 1...
A Climbing Chat With The Ladies
Jen Vennon, writing for her sponsor Prana's blog : Over the years I’ve kept a mental list of advice or suggestions I’d give to a girl new to the climbing world. As someone who is n...
FFA Of Bellavista (5.14b) By Sasha DiGiuilian
According to this post on her Instagram account, Sasaha DiGiulian has teamed up with Edu Marin to repeat Alex Huber's multi-pitch route Bellavista in the Italian Dolomites: After c...
Why Are So Many Climbers Not Wearing Helmets?
Long piece from the August issue of Climbing about why so few climbers wear helmets: When it comes to helmets and climbers, inconsistency is everywhere. Most ice climbers and mount...
Video Friday - 8/9/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week...
The Almighty
Jonathan Siegrist writes about his experience repeating a mixed route called The Almight y (5.14a) in Teton Canyon, WY that was first done by local Ty Mack in 2011 : This is one of...
Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2013 Climbing Report
Nice recap over at Splitter Choss of the latest and greatest in climbing gear that was unveiled at last week's Outdoor Retailer Trade Show. The Millet Opposite rope looks interesti...
Two V13s In Rocklands By Anna Stöhr
Impressive trip to Rocklands for Anna Stöhr as she repeats The Power Of One (V13) and The Vice (V13): Once again, Anna has broken through the glass ceiling and set a new precedent...
Another 5.15 In Flatanger For Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra continues to use the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway as his personal 5.15 playground, this time with the FA of Iron Curtain (5.15b). Lest you think 5.15b has beco...
Jimmy Webb Finishes South Africa Trip Strong
Before his victory at the Psicobloc Masters Series event, Jimmy Webb was busy wrapping up his visit to South Africa in much the same way he started
DiGiulian, Webb Win Inaugural Pisobloc Masters Series Event
Climbing has the report from the inaugural Psicobloc Masters Series event held Friday night that saw Sasha DiGiulian and Jimmy Webb both walk away ,000 richer for besting the compe...
Finals Brackets & Instagram Dump From Day 2 Of The Psicobloc Masters Series
Tune in tonight to watch finals of the Psicobloc Masters Series live
Video Friday - 8/2/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Instagram Dump From Day 1 Of The Psicobloc Masters Series
An assortment of Instagram photos from day 1 of the Psicobloc Masters Series event in Park City, UT
New Website From Reel Rock Tour & The Island
New websites from the Reel Rock Tour and The Island
Reflecting On The Wheel
Interesting piece on Vertical Life about The Wheel Of Life , one of the most repeated hard boulder problems in the world: It wasn’t that long ago – sometime after Fred Nicole’s asc...
Daniel Woods Repeats The Wheel Of Life
Daniel Woods has done the 9th ascent of Dai Koyamada's The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia. On his 8a scorecard he suggests a route grade of 5...
Rocklands Bouldering Crisis
Rocklands bouldering access is in jeopardy
More 5.14s By DiGiulian & Claassen In South Africa
More hard sends by Sasha DiGiulian and Paige Claassen in South Africa
Video Friday - 7/26/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Summer Is A Finite Resource
Semi-rad, last week : Now is the time to bail out of work at 4 p.m., or 3 p.m., and head to your favorite crag, trail, or hill climb. Or get up at 5 a.m. and do something fun befor...
The Circuit Interviews Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods sits down with The Circuit for an interview while he is in Australia: So it’s just funny to see this stagnant plateau that we’re sitting at right now. There’s honestly...
Alex Honnold To Climb Building On Live TV
So, this is happening : The two-hour fall event, Live Climb With Alex Honnold , will feature the 27-year-old as he attempts to be the first to scale one of the tallest buildings in...
The World According To Kai
Nice piece from the latest issue of DPM about 13-year-old Kai Lightner: How then, did a young black child from the flatlands of North Carolina come to find his passion in a sport l...
Honnold, Wright Enchain California 14ers by Bike, Foot, And Free Solo
I'm not sure what's crazier, free soloing something like Half Dome or climbing 15 14ers in California in three weeks without using a car: Over three weeks and one day, Alex Honnold...
If You're Not An Access Fund Member, What Are You?
Louder Than 11's Jordan Shipman : The sad truth, however, is that less than 1% of the climbing community are members of the Access Fund. There are millions of climbers out there in...
Video Friday - 7/19/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Sunshine, Ice Cream And BBQ's With Friends
Shauna Coxsey recaps her visit to Colorado which was highlighted by her ascent of Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13): I had never really understood how people can become so transfixed by o...
DiGiulian's Rolihlahla Repeated By Paige Claassen Among Others
It's been a busy week for Sasha DiGiuliuan's new route Rolihlahla at South Africa's Waterval Boven, as it has seen repeats from Arjan de Kock, Andrew Pedley and now Paige Claassen....
Athlete Listing For Upcoming Psicobloc Masters Series Event
The organizers of the Psicobloc Masters Series event coming up in two weeks continue to rub salt in the wound that is my inability to attend the event or even watch the live broadc...
Jonathan Siegrist Repeats Moonshine (5.14d)
Jonathan Siegrist, writing on his blog about his 4th ascent of BJ Tilden's finger tendon nightmare Moonshine (5.14d) at the Wild Iris: In the end it was this rad community that got...
The Disposable Man
Interesting piece on Outside Online about the plight of Sherpas working in the Everest region: A Sherpa working above Base Camp on Everest is nearly ten times more likely to die th...
Video Friday - 7/12/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Interview With Adam Ondra After His 5.14d Onsight
I don't know how you warm up for your 5.14d onsights, but this is what Adam Ondra did : Well, I tried a route which I thought was 8a and fell off at about half-height. But I wasn't...
Sasha DiGiulian Nabs Her Own Beautiful 5.14 FA In South Africa
Much like Paige Claassen, Sasha DiGiulian is down in South Africa where she to has completed the first ascent of an amazing looking project, this one coming at the crag at Waterfal...
Chris Sharma In His Birthday Suit
If you've always wondered what Chris Sharma might look like if he was hiking your project in the nude, your wait is over. Sharma and girlfriend Daila Ojeda were featured in the 201...
Quickdraw Setup Like Those From Tito Traversa's Accident
After a lot of speculation over the weekend, according to Grimper the police have released an image of a quickdraw slung like those that were responsible for the tragic death of Ti...
5.14d Onsight By Adam Ondra
Kairn.com reports in French that Adam Ondra has done his long-awaited 5.14d onsight with his first go send of La cabane au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland. Long expected to be the fir...
Alex Megos Repeats Wheel Of Life
In what should be surprising news to no one at this point, Alex Megos has made quick work of Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians: Though he hasn’t been here...
Paige Claassen Nabs FA Of Beautiful 5.14 In South Africa
Paige Claassen does the FA of a beautiful route in South Africa called Digital Warfare
Outpouring Of Support For Tito Traversa
I thought I'd share some of the outpouring of emotion and support from some of the more well known climbers on social media in the past few days as they react to the death of 12-ye...
Tito Traversa Killed In Fall
Just a day or two after climbing another 5.14a, 12-year-old Tito Traversa was seriously injured in a sport climbing accident at Orpierre, France. This report in French by Grimper s...
Video Friday - 7/5/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
"It Felt Surprisingly Easy"
Jimmy Webb, in an interview DPM about his flash of Sky : It felt surprisingly easy. Yet that's how most flashes at your limit should feel. It's that wild moment where everything co...
Context On Nanga Parbat Massacre
Steve Swenson gives some fascinating context surrounding the massacre at Nanga Parbat's basecamp the other weekend: I've been on eleven climbing expeditions to Pakistan. Although t...
Jimmy Webb Flashes Sky And Other Rocklands Notables
As usual it's been a busy time for visiting climbers down in Rocklands, South Africa
Video Friday - 6/28/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Shauna Coxsey Repeats Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13)
Nuthin' But Sunshine see it's long-awaited first female ascent
Rescue On Leaning Tower
Since there was a fair bit of bad news from Yosemite this season it's nice to see this bonus El Cap Report detail the successful rescue of a climber off of the Leaning Tower: It st...
Lead Now Tour
Best of luck to Paige Claassen and Jon Glassberg as they get underway with their ambitious effort to raise $120,000 for charity as part of their 12 month tour around the world : Le...
Missing Urban Climber
Peter Beal : There, I said it. I miss Urban Climber. It's been about a year since that much-maligned magazine was put to sleep and I hate to say it, but I wish it was back, or at l...
Gunmen Kill Climbers In Northern Pakistan
Terrible news out of Pakistan : In one of the most brazen attacks on foreigners in the country in recent years, militants killed nine tourists and one Pakistani on a mountaineering...
Video Friday - 6/21/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Please Continue Instagramming Your Amazing Life
Semi-rad: Please share photos of your new baby, recent trip, day hike, birthday cake, rock climb, sunrise, cute dog, dirty feet, amazing meal, inspiration, and happy moments. I wil...
12-Year-Old Mirko Caballero Getting It Done At Home & Abroad
Mirko Caballero continues to rack up an impressive list of hard sends
What Happened To Climbing Films
Chris Parker, writing in this week's TNB for Rock & Ice : Excuse the extended metaphor, but five-minute Internet videos or short films packaged and viewable only in a film festival...
2nd Ascent Of La Force Tranquille (V15) By Nalle Hukkataival
Nalle Hukkataival is on a roll : Just climbed La Force Tranquille V15 in Magic Wood!! Had a devastating fall from the easy top slab because a hold broke, but managed to pull it tog...
The Understanding
Nalle Hukkataival, writing on his blog about a problem called The Understanding that he just opened in Magic Wood, Switzerland: This beautiful project caught my eye the very first...
Video Friday - 6/14/2013
All the latest videos can be found here , but here are the top 5 highest rated videos from the past week: This Is Yorkshire The Climb: Cedar Wright & Lucho Rivera Ethan Pringle Rep...
Mapping Yosemite's Granite
Fascinating study being done by Roger Putnam on the different types of granite that make up the most famous granite formation in the world: To get a more complete and detailed pict...
"Well, we didn't"
Emily Harrington with a very honest look back on a trip she took to Morocco to climb with Hazel Findlay for the 2013 Reel Rock Film Tour: I had never climbed a big wall like that b...
New Blog Post And V14 Repeat For Dave Graham
Dave Graham, writing for sponsor Five Ten : Life has some pretty crazy twists and turns in the last couple months. This time around the story starts with my epic skiing accident th...
DPM Issue 24
After the initial excitement of being free wore off, my interest in reading Deadpoint Magazine has waned a bit. I wasn't really enjoying the articles and the interface for the onli...
Stöhr, Sharafutdinov Win At 2013 Vail Bouldering World Cup
The annual bouldering World Cup at the newly renamed GoPro Mountain Games in Vail, CO has come and gone. As usual, it was an exciting show filled with an above average presence fr...
2013 IFSC Bouldering World Cup - Vail Live
The bouldering World Cup returns to Vail, CO this weekend at the GoPro Mountain Games. Catch all the action with the following live feeds
Video Friday - 6/7/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
New Free Route On Liberty Cap
Since I've only been posting bad news out of Yosemite, it seems like now would be a good time to post about something good like this new free route on Liberty Cap established by Lu...
More On Muir Wall Accident
Chris Van Leuven, in an excellent account of the accident that killed Mason Robinson on El Cap's Muir Wall a few weeks ago: Mason Robinson attended Columbia Falls High School and w...
Deep Water Soloing Comp Coming To Summer OR Show
This is pretty exciting: Capping off Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2013, the Psicobloc Masters Series - the first deep water soloing competition ever held in the U.S. - will be he...
Guide To Bouldering And Traveling In The Virgin Islands
A few words about the new bouldering guidebook for the Virgin Islands
More FAs By Adam Ondra In Norway
Adam Ondra is back in Norway for the summer
5.14+ FA By Steve McClure
42-year-old Steve McClure is still getting it done over in the UK, this time by making a new link-up in the 5.14d/5.15a-range at Malham called Batman : Not so important for me to p...
Another Death On El Capitan
More bad news from the flanks of El Capitan: A twenty eight year old climber died in a rock climbing accident on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park yesterday afternoon, Sunday, J...
Climbers Buying Up More Land In Kentucky
Big news for climbers visiting the Red River Gorge in Kentucky: The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) and Access Fund are thrilled to announce the acquisition of 309 acre...
Video Friday - 5/31/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Climbing Will Not Be In 2020 Olympics
Disappointing, but not surprising news for people excited about seeing climbing included in the 2020 Olympics in Buenos Aires : The Executive Board (EB) of the International Olympi...
Favresse Frees Hard Crack Project In Norway
Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse has done the FA of The Recovery Drink in Jossingfjord, Norway, calling it his hardest crack climb yet 1 : I sent the pitch placing gear on lead exc...
Video Friday - 5/24/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
10th New River Rendezvous
Nice report over at DPM from the 10th New River Rendezvous : What once started as a grassroots gathering of core climbers has grown over the past decade into one of the most well-e...
Tragic Death On El Capitan
Tragic news from high on El Cap this past Sunday : An experienced climber, Mason Robison was leading the 27th pitch of the 3,000-foot granite wall at about 9 a.m., when a large roc...
Woods & Robinson Do First Repeats Of Graham's The Ice Knife (V15)
Beau Kahler was on the scene in Guanella Pass, CO yesterday as Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson did the 2nd and 3rd ascents respectively of Dave Graham's The Ice Knife (V15) . Graham...
Video Friday - 5/17/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
2013 IFSC Bouldering World Cup - Innsbruck Live
Live from the 2013 Bouldering World Cup in Innsbruck, Austria
Central Washington Bouldering
A few words about my recent trip to central Washington to boulder in Gold Bar, Index and Leavenworth
NPS Authorizes Fixed Anchors In Wilderness
Big news from the Access Fund: After decades of work, the Access Fund received notice yesterday from National Park Service (NPS) that the agency has issued final national policy au...
Sean McColl's First Bouldering World Cup Victory
Sean McColl, writing about how it felt to win his first bouldering World Cup over the weekend in Log Dragomer, Slovenia : In my head I was saying “you won one, you did it”. At the...
3rd Ascent Of Corona (5.15a) By Alex Megos
Alex Megos has done the 3rd ascent of Markus Bock's Corona (5.15a) in Germany's Frankenjura according to Frankenjura.com (in German). Megos needed about 10 tries to climb the 60 ft...
Climbing Banned At Castle Rocks, ID
More bad access news, this time from Idaho : On April 17, 2013, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in Idaho announced that all rock climbing activity will be banned on its 400-acr...
5.14 Trad Ascent By James Pearson
A few weeks old, but this a nice report by James Pearson about his efforts to do the 2nd ascent of an old 5.14 sport route in La Balma, Switzerland called A Denti Tretti on natural...
Arizona Climber Killed By Bee Stings
Sad news the other week out of Arizona : A climber’s body was found covered in bee stings and hanging off a southern Arizona cliff on Monday. His faithful dog was lying dead on top...
2013 IFSC Bouldering World Cup - Log Dragomer Replay
Watch the entirety of the 2013 Bouldering World Cup in Log Dragomer, Slovenia live starting early Saturday morning
Video Friday - 5/10/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Ammagamma Sessions
Keith Bradbury, who is perhaps best known for his work on films 85 Days in Font and Between The Trees , is back in the climbing game after a long break. This also means he's back i...
Another 5.14c Onsight By Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra notches 5.14c onsight #15 if you're scoring at home. I'm starting to think this kid has a bright future in this here climbing game.
Daniel Woods Repeating Bridge Of Ashes (V15)
It's going to take a while for me to get that song out of my head . Also, some words from Woods on the process of sending this problem in one day can be read here : This was the fi...
Unfinished Business
Steve Bechtel, writing about a first ascent that was done in Wyoming recently: When Micah first walked up to the climb last year, the face had already been bolted. There were ancho...
Climbing Banned On Basalt Columns In Armenia
Bad news for anyone psyched about making the trip to Armenia to climb on the incredibly unique looking basalt columns that were on the cover of Rock & Ice a few years back: By this...
Underwhelmed
Jonathan Siegrist, writing about the end of his time in Las Vegas for the season as well as a brief visit he made to the much-hyped limestone in Ely, NV: To be downright honest I w...
Popular Posts & Videos For April 2013
The most popular posts and videos for April 2013
Video Friday - 5/3/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Crux Crush Interviews Colette McInerney
Crux Crush , one of the better new climbing sites to crop up of late, has a nice interview with Colette McInerney who recently climbed her first 5.14a in Oliana with a repeat of Ch...
Returning To The Sport That Almost Killed Her
Amazing story of recovery by Rannevig Aamodt who was badly injured when she took a ground fall while sport climbing in Turkey about a year ago: Twelve months have passed since I hi...
5.15a FA By Alex Megos In The Frankenjura
Alex Megos makes his first First Ascent count with his recent FA of Classified in Germany's Frankenjura : The new route, a ~20m fiesta of small shallow pockets followed by even sma...
Midnight Lightning's Lightning Bolt Gets Chopped
James Lucas, writing about why he removed the iconic chalk lightning bolt outline from beneath Midnight Lightning in Yosemite: Over thirty years, with every passing ascent, the lig...
No Big Deal
Alex Honnold, writing for La Sportiva about his solo of three walls in Zion in a day back in March: I could write several different essays about the day; it’s given me a ton to thi...
Southern Smoke Repeated By 12-Year-Old Harry Edwards
Don't tell Joe Kinder or this guy, but it looks like Kinder's route Southern Smoke (5.14c) in the Red River Gorge is the new go to route for young crushers
Video Friday - 4/26/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
FFA Of Chemical Ali (5.14a) By Kristin Yurdin
Nice write-up by DPM about 42-year-old Smith Rock local Kristin Yurdin climbing her first 5.14a with a repeat of Chemical Ali : Ian describes a crucial part of Kristin's training p...
Tributes To Layton Kor
Nice collection of tributes to Layton Kor over at Climbing.com , including this one from Steve Komito: My clearest memories of these adventures include the feeling of sand in my ea...
I Did Not Know That. I Learned Something Today.
You learn something new every day...
Utah Trip Part 2: Joe's Valley To Moab
Rest days from Joe's Valley
Layton Kor Dead At Age 74
Layton Kor, one of the most prolific and accomplished American climbers of the 1960s, has died at age 74. Kor had suffered from kidney failure and prostate cancer. A resident of Ki...
Andrea Hah Repeats Punks In The Gym (5.14a)
It's been a busy time for notable repeats of historically significant 5.14a's, what with Paige Claassen and Drew Ruana repeating America's first 5.14a To Bolt Or Not To Be and now...
Video Friday - 4/19/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
5.14c Onsight By Magnus Midtbø In Rodellar
Nice write-up with pictures from Henning Wang by Magnus Midtbø about his onsight of Cosi fan tutti (5.14c) in Rodellar, Spain: It was a very satisfying feeling to for once win a de...
To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) By 13-Year-Old Drew Ruana
13-Year-Old Drew Ruana notches his 5th 5.14a with a repeat of To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock, OR: Although the grade is the same, what Drew just did is a huge step up i...
Utah Trip Part 1: Joe's Valley
A few words and pictures from my first visit to Joe's Valley, UT
5.14c FA By Dan Mirsky At The Cathedral
DPM interviews Dan Mirsky after he did the FA of Solid Gold , a proposed 5.14c in Utah's Cathedral: So basically, Solid Gold is the most straight up way to climb the main awesome c...
V14 FA In Switzerland By Jimmy Webb
Jimmy Webb closed out his Swiss trip in fine style by doing the FA of La Rustica , a potential V14 in Valle Bavona: One of the coolest projects i've ever climbed. Big thanks to Car...
2nd Ascent Of The Insurgency (V14) By Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson had a nice trip to Joe's Valley last week, repeating a couple of V13s and doing the 2nd ascent of James Litz's The Insurgency (V14).
Bügeleisen
Nalle Hukkataival, blogging about his repeat of a V14 in Maltatal called Bügeleisen which was first done in 2001 by Klem Loskot : Bügeleisen really is one of the BEST hard boulders...
Video Friday - 4/12/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
V13 Flash In Font By James Kassay
Aussie James Kassay has flashed Dave Graham's Sideways Daze (V13) in Fontainebleau, France. This is the 2nd V13 (or harder) flash in the forest after Adam Ondra flashed Gecko Assis...
First 5.14s By 13-Year-Old Kai Lightner
13-year-old Kai Lightner has been on a tear the past month or so, climbing his first 5. 14s including Proper Soul in the New River Gorge (5.14a) and Transworld Depravity (5.14a) an...
Woods, Durif Win At 2013 SCS Nationals
Daniel Woods and Charlotte Durif win at 2013 SCS Nationals
Live From 2013 SCS Nationals Finals
We'll be live from Boulder, CO at 6:30 MDT to watch the following climbers compete for the title of National Champion and a spot on the U.S. National Team!
2013 SCS Nationals Finalists
List of finalists who will be competing live Saturday night at 2013 SCS Nationals
Video Friday - 4/5/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Super Unknown
Really nice TNB this week over at Rock & Ice about a 5.14d in central Texas Nick Duttle got the 2nd ascent of that was first done by a guy you almost certainly have never heard of.
Webb & Traversi Getting It Done In Switzerland
Jimmy Webb & Carlo Traversi rack up the hard sends in Switzerland
La Rambla (5.15a) 2nd Go By Alex Megos
Who is Alex Megos, and where did he come from? Not long after his onsight of Estado critico (5.14d) , Alex Megos continued his good form by redpointing La Rambla (5.15a) in just tw...
Popular Posts & Videos For March 2013
The most popular posts and videos for March 2013
Video Friday - 3/29/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
Paige Claassen Repeats To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)
Paige Claassen, writing on her blog , after she achieved a longtime goal of repeating To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock, OR: This past weekend, I climbed the only route th...
2013 SCS Nationals Streaming Live April 6th
Set your calendars for the night of Saturday, April 6th
Alex Megos' Three Try Limit
Alex Megos, in an email to sponsor DMM, with some details on his onsight of Estado crítico (5.14d) : In that moment I didn’t think about having done something really outstanding. B...
Chris Sharma Interviewed About La Dura Dura
Chris Sharma, in an interview with PlanetMountain , talking about his repeat of La Dura Dura (5.15c) : I must have spent a whole year trying the lower section, those 15 moves. Doin...
The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) Repeated By Carlo Traversi
The hits just keep coming for Carlo Traversi as he has done the 5th 1 ascent of Dave Graham's The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland. This send comes shortly after...
First 5.14d Onsight Goes Down
If you had Adam Ondra in the office pool for who would be the first to onsight 5.14d you just lost. Probably.
La Dura Dura (5.15c) Repeated By Chris Sharma
Chris Sharma finishes his hardest route yet
Jeremy Zachariash On Going From 0 To 5.14 In Just A Few Years
DPM catches up with Jeremy Zachariash who progressed from not climbing to sending 5.14 in just four years: My weaknesses are ice cream, sugar cookies with buttercream frosting, cin...
Combing Through DPM's Stash
A look at Dead Point Magazine's new pay video area dubbed "The Stash"
Gioia (V16) Repeated By Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra does it again...
Esperanza (V14) Repeated By Nalle Hukkataival
Nalle Hukkataival has repeated Fred Nicole's Esperanza (V14) in Hueco Tanks, making him at least the 16th person to do so. Commenting about the problem on his 27crags ticklist he s...
Contest: Win A 2011 Access Fund Holiday Pack
It's become an annual tradition here at ClimbingNarc.com, and I'm pleased once again to be able to run a contest giving away an Access Fund Holiday Prize Pack.
Midnight Express (V14) Repeated By Phil Schaal
Phil Schaal has done the 8th ascent 1 of Midnight Express , a V14 in Colorado's Boulder Canyon established by Ty Landman in 2007 . See footage of Schaal's repeat, starting as Landm...
Popular Posts & Videos For November 2011
The most popular posts and the highest rated videos for November 2011
Video Friday - 12/02/2011
The most popular videos from the past 2 weeks
It Was An Honor Just To Be Nominated
Outside Online compiles their list of the top 10 climbing blog...
"Why On Earth Don't I Live Here?"
Writing for Five Ten about his recent time spent in Kentucky's Red River Gorge 1 , Dave Graham unleashes another classic entry for the internet to enjoy: I will admit, as this is m...
Fred Nicole's Entlinge (V14/15) Flashed By Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods gets really "next level" with things by flashing a Fred Nicole testpiece in Switzerland
Successful Trip To The Red River Gorge For Jorg Verhoeven
Jorg Verhoeven reports on his blog that he had a pretty successful trip to the Red River Gorge with repeats of Pure Imagination (5.14d), Fifty Words For Pump (5.14c) and Southern S...
Trotter Does First Repeat Of The Prophet (5.13d R)
Tommy Caldwell wasn't the only person hard at work on the flanks of El Capitan this fall
Adam Taylor Brings 5.15 To The Red River Gorge
Red River Gorge local Adam Taylor ushers in the era of 5.15 at the Red
Video Friday - 11/18/2011
An update from Hueco Tanks and your Video Friday videos
5.14c Repeats By Spannuth & Zachariash
A pair of climbers continue their rapid rise up the grading scale
McColl, Robinson & Woods In Switzerland - Updated
Sean McColl, Paul Robinson and Daniel woods have posted up in Ticino, Switzerland and as one might expect they've managed to climb their fair share of hard boulders
Caldwell's Dawn Wall Push Over...For Now
In an update on his Facebook page yesterday Tommy Caldwell indicated that he's given up the hope of completing his Dawn Wall project in a single push, instead opting to go down to...
Possible V16 From Adam Ondra In The Czech Republic
Adam Ondra keep cleaning up projects near his home in the Czech Republic
Video Friday - 11/11/2011
The most popular videos from the past week
Chelsea Rude Reports On 5.14a Ascent In Rodellar
On her new blog Chelsea Rude has a nice report from her recent trip to Rodellar, Spain where she did her first 5.14 and came close to sending a 2nd before having to return home.
Southern Smoke (5.14c) Repeated By Dylan Barks
According to his 8a scorecard 16-year old Dylan Barks from Ann Arbor, MI has done Joe Kinder's Southern Smoke (5.14c) in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. This was Barks' second route 5....
Caldwell Matches Previous Highpoint On Dawn Wall Project
Tommy Caldwell's push to free a new route up El Capitan's Dawn Wall is 10 days old now and the events over the weekend were really something.
"I'm An Equal Opportunity Sheriff"
I'm a big fan of the interviews done on Boulder's ClimbTalk Radio and thanks to the hard work of Dave McAllister we can all peruse transcripts of the shows. The latest interview to...
Popular Posts & Videos For October 2011
Was Alex Honnold on TV or something???
Tommy Caldwell Explains His New Approach To Sharing Dawn Wall Updates
Tommy Caldwell has freed the first 11 pitches of his Dawn Wall project and is now working on pitch 12. Of course, you already knew this if you've been following the updates and pic...
Video Friday - 11/4/2011
A few words on the Red River Gorge and Video Friday videos...
Adidas Group To Buy Five Ten For $25 Million
The adidas Group is set to buy up shoe maker Five Ten for $25 million in cash
Jorgeson, Traversi Visit Bear Grylls' Discovery Channel Adrenaline Lab
Kevin Jorgeson and Carlo Traversi spend a few minutes with Bear Grylls in the Discovery Channel Adrenaline Lab
Off Belay Podcast Hits The Deck
It was fun while it lasted, but the Off Belay Podcast is no more.
Dawn Wall Push Underway
The push is on for Tommy Caldwell to free his Dawn Wall project on El Cap, this time without injured partner Kevin Jorgeson
Video Friday - 10/28/2011
I would generally have more to say on a Video Friday such as today but I'm currently doing this: Hopefully things are looking this good wherever you're climbing this weekend, and h...
5.14b FA At Smith By Ryan Palo
Ryan Palo reports on his blog about Sure Shot (5.14b), a FA he did last weekend at Smith Rock that takes Pierre Bollinger's Shoot'm Up (5.14b) to a more difficult finish.
5.14 Trad By Yuji Hirayama During Visit To Italy
PlanetMountain has a report from Yuji Hirayama about a recent visit to Italy that included a second try ascent of the trad line Greenspit (5.14-).
What's Your Scene?
Find out how you can win a copy of Chuck Fryberger's latest movie, The Scene
2011 Yank-N-Yard
Ingenuity, creativity, a $4,000 cash purse and a star studded cast of boulderers come together in Albuquerque, NM. A report from from the 15th annual Yank-N-yard on Yale at Stone...
Potential V15 At Guanella Pass By Dave Graham
Dave Graham adds yet another hard boulder to Colorado, this time at Guanella Pass
Video Friday - 10/21/2011
The 2011 Petzl Roc Trip and Video Friday videos...
5.14b In Rifle By Emily Harrington
The historic season of sending in Rifle continues as Climbing reports that Emily Harrington repeated Joe Kinder's Waka Flocka (5.14b), her first of the grade in Rifle. Update - Mor...
The Key To Being World Cup Champion?
With Austrian climbers winning the recent sport climbing World Cup in Boulder as well as the overall Boulder World Cup title , you might be wondering what their secret to success i...
3rd Annual Dark Horse Series
As fall wears on and winter starts to rear its ugly head, many of us head for the friendly confines of our local gym. While the cold, dark days can be a bit on the depressing side...
Dawn Wall 2011
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson returned to Yosemite late last month to resume work on their Dawn Wall project . Unfortunately, Kevin has been sidelined, at least temporarily, by...
More V15s From Ondra & Woods
Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods each add proposed V15s to Petrohrad and Magic Wood respectively
Alex Honnold: "I hardly ever do anything badass"
Alex Honnold has been getting a lot of attention lately, likely related to that TV show you might have seen him on . This recent interview he did with Trails Edge has several inter...
Pure Imagination (5.14d) Repeated By Sasha DiGiulian
Sasha DiGiulian continues to amaze, this time repeating a 5.14d in the Red River Gorge
New V14 In Finland By Nalle Hukkataival
Fresh off a trip to Font , Nalle Hukkataival returned to a project in his native Finland that he was finally able to dispatch after a prolonged effort : It’s a great problem on bul...
Video Friday - 10/14/2011
Two weekends in October down, three precious weekends to go. Do you know where your project is?
Ramon Julian Onsights 5.14c In Rifle
After a disappointing finish in the World Cup in Boulder , Ramon Julian Puigblanque made the drive west to Rifle for a short trip and things went just a little better for him there...
Nat Geo Blog Catches Up With Chris Sharma
The Nat Geo Adventure blog checks in with Chris Sharma
News & Notes - 10/12/2011
News & Notes from Lynn Hill, Joe Kinder, Sasha DiGiulian, Reno climbing walls, 50 year anniversaries and more...
The Not Worth It Boulders
While the discovery and development of new boulders in Wyoming and elsewhere has gotten a lot of attention of late, it's instructive to remember that many times the quest for new r...
Interview With Mayan Smith-Gobat After Freeing Salathé Wall
An interview with New Zealand's Mayan Smith-Gobat after she freed the Salathé Wall on El Capitan
Schubert, Ernst Win 2011 Lead Climbing World Cup In Boulder
Results from the Lead World Cup held over the weekend at Boulder, Colorado's Movement Climbing & Fitness
Another Repeat Of The Wheel Of Life
According to his 8a scorecard Australia's Ben Cossey has repeated Dai Koyamada's The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia. Cossey registered the as...
Video Friday - 10/7/2011
The most popular videos from the past week...
2nd Ascent Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c)
Adam Taylor has done the likely 2nd ascent of Jonathan Siegrist's Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. While generally preferring to live life under the online...
Lead World Cup This Weekend In Boulder
This weekend Boulder, CO, and more specifically Movement Climbing & Fitness, will play host to the first lead climbing World Cup held on American soil in over 20 years.
2011 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Hound Ears Results
The 2011 Triple Crown Bouldering series got underway last weekend at Hound Ears, NC
Swiss Bouldering News From Koyamada, Ondra & Woods
Despite some challenging conditions Dai Koyamanda, Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods have all been getting it done on the boulders of Switzerland of late.
5.14 Trad FA By Pete Kamitses
Climberism reports that Pete Kamitses has done the FA of Oppositional Defiance Disorder , a traditionally protected 5.14 in New York's Adirondacks. Climbing.com caught up with Kami...
Jonathan Siegrist Goes Shadowboxing In Rifle
Nearing the end of his time in Rifle for the season, Jonathan Siegrist adds a new testpiece to the canyon
Alex Honnold Keeps It Chill On "60 Minutes"
Alex Honnold's segments from his appearance on the program 60 Minutes
Popular Posts & Videos For September 2011
Popular posts and videos for September 2011
Video Friday - 9/30/2011
Final thoughts from last weekend's Nor'easter and your Video Friday videos
Alex Honnold To Appear On "60 Minutes" This Sunday
Set your DVRs for the 60 Minutes program on CBS this Sunday evening to catch their story about Alex Honnold
Review: A Fine Line
A Fine Line follows the likes of Jimmy Webb, Brion Voges, Brad Weaver, Daniel Woods and Dave Graham as they spend a few months doing what they do best, namely doing nothing but bo...
2011 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell
Last weekend 250 crazy people climbers spent 24 straight hours clipping bolts at Arkansas' Horseshoe Canyon Ranch for the aptly named 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell . Nate Drolet and B...
Nalle Hukkataival Reports On Australian Trip
Nalle Hukkataival, Dave Graham and Ian Dory are back from their adventure in Australia and reports are starting to trickle in out about what they were up to.
Ben Spannuth Repeats Era Bella (5.14d)
Looking at Ben Spannuth's 8a scorecard we can see that he's had a nice trip to Spain climbing several 5.14s and just recently repeating Chris Sharma's Era Bella (5.14d) in Margalef...
More Solos In Yosemite By Alex Honnold - Updated
Alex Honnold is back at it in Yosemite, running up routes big and small without a rope
Thomas Willenberg
UKC interviews Thomas Willenberg who has climbed multiple V15s but is relatively unknown these days: In the last decade both climbing and bouldering have changed significantly. At...
Payne, Dory Win UBC Pro Tour's The North Face Open At The 2011 Nor'easter - Updated
Results from the finale of the 2011 Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour at The North Face Open. UPDATED with more details from finals.
Live From 2011 Unified Bouldering Championships Finale At The North Face Open: Finals
Three live blogs in two days? Sure, why not. Check back around 2:45 PM EST for finals of the 2011 UBC Pro Tour The North Face Open.
Live From 2011 Unified Bouldering Championships Finale At The North Face Open: Semi-finals
Check back around 9:45 AM EST as I'll be kicking off yet another live blog, this time for the semi-final round of the 2011 UBC Pro Tour The North Face Open. Get psyched!
2011 UBC Pro Tour The North Face Open Qualifier Results & Photos
Results and photos from the qualifying round of the 2011 UBC Pro Tour The North Face Open
Live From 2011 Unified Bouldering Championships Finale At The North Face Open: Day 1
Live updates from Day 1 of the finale of the 2011 Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour, The North Face Open, at the Nor'easter Sports & Music Festival
Finale Of 2011 UBC Pro Tour This Weekend
The finale of the 2011 UBC Pro Tour, The North Face Open, is this weekend at the Nor'easter in Burlington, VT and I will be there covering the event
Video Friday - 9/23/2011
Video Friday videos one day early....
Fred Nicole Still Getting It Done
Fred Nicole reports on a new boulder problem he did in Switzerland that could be V15
Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Joe Kinder
After getting a lot of love from first ascensionist Matty Hong and second ascensionist Jonathan Siegrist , it's only fitting that only a short time after returning to the States fr...
PlanetMountain Interviews Petit About Black Bean Ascent
PlanetMountain interviews Arnaud Petit about his ascent of the 5.13d sport route Black Bean on trad gear , touching on his motivations for doing so and whether or not he considered...
Stockboy's Revenge (5.14b) Repeated By Jen Vennon - Updated
Jen Vennon becomes the first woman to climb 5.14b in Rifle, CO with her repeat of Stockboy's Revenge
AAC Launches New Guidebook Finder Tool
The American Alpine Club launches a new tool to help search their library of climbing guidebooks
Video Friday - 9/16/2011
One week to the Nor'easter and some Video Friday videos!
El Cap Report Returns...Again
After a brief retirement , the El Cap Report is back for the fall season ! Yo… Yep the Report is back!!! Friends of YOSAR have agreed to let me use their internet connection, which...
2011 Reel Rock Film Tour Kicks Off Tonight
A look at the 6th edition of the Reel Rock Film tour which kicks off tonight
News & Notes - 9/14/2011
News & Notes from Sasha DiGiulian, Ben Spannuth, Dai Koyamada and a slew of upcoming access related events...
Multiple Hard Sends By Ashima Shiraishi In Kentucky
27Crags interviews Ashima Shiraishi after her first trip to Kentucky's Red River Gorge which yielded repeats of multiple 5. 13s including the 5.13d Swingline . Already somewhat wel...
Sendtember Well Under Way In Rifle
Jonathan Siegrist, Sam Elias and Keller Rinaudo kick off sendtember in Rifle, CO
The Other Side Of Life As Alex Honnold
Adventure Journal catches up with Alex Honnold to discuss the fact that although he may be one of the world's best climbers, his lifestyle and diet are not exactly glamorous: I hav...
Final Words From Adam Ondra On His Rocklands Trip
A final update from Adam Ondra's most recent trip to Rocklands, South Africa
Nick Duttle Repeats Alpine 5.14
DPM reports on Nick Duttle doing the 4th ascent of Tommy Caldwell's Sarchasm (5.14) located high in RMNP, CO on the Ship's Prow near Longs Peak: After breaking a few holds during h...
Video Friday - 9/9/2011
The psyche is returning, the Nor'easter is fast approaching and Video Friday videos...
Hard New Route At "Next Level Something" Crag By Jorg Verhoeven
Jorg Verhoeven blogs about his recent efforts in the amazing cave in Flatanger, Norway that yielded a potential 5. 14d called Nordic Flower with room for much, much more: I must sa...
Another Day At The Office For Adam Ondra & Sasha DiGiulian
Another day at the office yields 5.15 and V15 FAs for Adam Ondra and a 5.14a onsight for Sasha DiGiulian
Wheel Of Life Repeated By James Kassay
About two years after he climbed the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Sleepy Rave , James Kassay managed to send the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Wheel Of Life which adds a V...
Notable Repeats By Daniel Woods In Austria
Daniel Woods ticks off two hard Bernd Zangerl problems in the mountains of Silvretta, Austria
Lucifer (5.14c) Repeated (Again) By Adam Taylor
In a post summarizing what sounded like a pretty miserable Labor Day weekend weather-wise at the Red River Gorge, the folks at the Team Saucisson blog casually dropped the fact tha...
Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jonathan Siegrist
Not long after its FA by Matty Hong , Jonathan Siegrist has, according to my spies, done the 2nd ascent of Bad Girls Club (5.14d) in Rifle, CO. More details to come, I'm sure, on S...
Popular Posts & Videos For August 2011
The most popular posts & videos from August 2011
5.14c For Sasha DiGiulian In Rodellar
Sasha DiGiulian clips the chains on her 3rd 5.14c of 2011
Video Friday - 9/2/2011
A long weekend edition of Video Friday...
Shawn Raboutou Climbs 5.14b At Age 13
13 year-old Shawn Raboutou sends his fisrt 5.14
More On Adam Ondra's Trip To Rocklands
Adam Ondra has wrapped up his trip to Rocklands, South Africa, and in addition to the earlier repeats he added flashes of Leopard Cave (V12) and the likely 3rd ascent of Fred Nicol...
2011 World Youth Championships Results
Results from the World Youth Championships of sport climbing held August 25-28, 2011 in Imst, Austria
Bouldering World Cup Champs Fischhuber & Stöhr To Appear On ClimbTalk Radio
On Friday, September 2 reigning World Cup Bouldering champs Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr will be live in studio for Boulder, Colorado's ClimbTalk radio show. Other guests sched...
In Search Of Time Lost (V15) Repeated By Dai Koyamada
Dai Koyamada is back in Magic Wood, Switzerland...
New V13s In Australia By Hukkataival & Graham
Nalle Hukkataival checks in from Australia with news of a handful of new problems done in the V11-V13 range by himself and Dave Graham. So, are they almost out of things to do? In...
Hard Sends In Rocklands By Johansen & Le Nevé
Therese Johansen and Melissa Le Nevé rack up impressive ticklists in Rocklands, South Africa
2011 Youth World Championships
Semi-finals and Finals of the 2011 Youth World Championships (of sport climbing) take place tomorrow (Saturday, August 26th) in Imst, Austria. Watch live beginning at 10:00 AM loca...
Video Friday - 8/26/2011
ClimbingNarc.com gets a makeover and your Video Friday videos
Joe Kinder On Bad Girls Club FA & Life In South Africa
In the most recent update from his amazing trip around Europe and South Africa Joe Kinder takes a minute to comment on Matty Hong's recent FA of a route Kinder equipped in Rifle: T...
Fischhuber, Stöhr Win 2011 Bouldering World Cup
The 2011 Bouldering World Cup circuit finished up last weekend in Munich, Germany with Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr claiming the overall titles while American Alex Puccio cemen...
5.14d In Oliana For Chris Sharma
Daila Ojeda mentions on her Spanish blog that before coming to the U.S. for the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show in Salt Lake City, UT and his annual Yo Basecamp in Bishop, CA boyfriend...
Potential 5.14d FA In Rifle By Matty Hong
Rock & Ice has the details on Matty Hong doing the FA of a route Joe Kinder bolted and left as an open project last summer in Rifle, CO called Bad Girls Club : What makes Bad Girls...
The Island Goes Down Under
After following the careers of certain well-known American climbers like Chris Sharma and Dave Graham throughout the years one kind of starts to get the feeling like man, these guy...
5.14d Birthday Present For Charlotte Durif
Literally as she was turning 21 years of age France's Charlotte Durif redpointed PPP (5.14d) at Grotte de Galetas in France's Verdon Gorge according to a posting on her website . F...
Video Friday - 8/19/2011
Registration is now open for the 2011 UBC Pro Tour's finale at the Nor'easter Outdoor Sports & Music Festival, the schedule for this weekend's Munich World Cup as well as your Vide...
Plan For Development Near Red Rock Gets Initial Approval
A proposed development near Red Rock gets initial approval
News & Notes - 8/17/2011
News & Notes from Jonathan Siegrist, 5.14d and V14 in a week by Jorg Verhoeven, a hard mult-pitch gets repeated and MUCH more...
New 5.13+ Multipitch By Trotter & Caldwell In Canada
Sonnie Trotter and Tommy Caldwell have teamed up to establish a 15 pitch route up the Diamond Face on Mount Louis in the Canadian Rockies. Dubbed The Shining , the route has 7 pitc...
PCI Pro Clinic Series
Earlier this year I announced a partnership with PCI that was met with decidedly mixed reviews. While that partnership is still developing (perhaps a bit slower than expected), PC...
Adam Ondra Repeats Monkey Wedding (V15)
Fresh off overall gold at the World Championships and quickly redpointing two 5.14d's, Adam Ondra has taken his talents to Rocklands, South Africa
Honnold Repeats Cobra Crack
Via his 8a.nu scorecard comes word that Alex Honnold has repeated the 5.14 trad route Cobra Crack in Squamish, BC. First done in the summer of 2006 by Sonnie Trotter , Cobra Crack...
Video Friday - 8/12/2011
Thoughts on the climbing video market and a few of this week's most popular videos
Reviews Of The Schengen Files, The Swiss Account, Better Than Chocolate & Midwest Unknown
A chance for you to win something for free and a few thoughts on The Schengen Files, The Swiss Account, Better Than Chocolate and Midwest Unknown just as soon as the cops are done...
Rocklands Bouldering Draws Attention Of Reuters
This little sport we call bouldering draws more mainstream coverage
First 5.14 For The Other Alex Johnson
According to his Facebook Page Alex "Socks" Johnson has done his first 5.14 with a send of Welcome To Tijuana (5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain.
Help Save Red Rock Canyon
Development threatens to change the experience at Nevada's Red Rock Canyon forever
Productive Day At Maple Canyon For Sasha DiGiulian
Playing hooky from the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show going on in Salt Lake City for a day Sasha DiGiulian made the trip down to the cobbled overhangs of Maple Canyon where, according...
Popular Posts & Videos For July 2011
The most popular posts and videos for July 2011
Clear Blue Skies Repeated By Flannery Shay-Nemirow
According to her 8a scorecard 19 year-old Flannery Shay-Nemirow has repeated the maybe it's V11, maybe it's V12 crimper problem Clear Blue Skies at Mt. Evans, CO. This is her 12th...
Video Friday - 8/5/2011
A few of this week's most popular videos
Outdoor Retailer Show Kicks Off, Climbing Comp MIA
Bad news for comp climbing fans as the annual competition at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market Trade Show was cancelled
Pair Of 5.14d Repeats In Margalef For Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra checks in with his 8a scorecard to report that he sent two Chris Sharma 5.14d's in Margalef, Spain in Gancho Perfecto and Era Bella, with the latter going down 2nd try....
News & Notes - 8/3/2011
A few lingering pieces of News & Notes left over from my recent vacation...
Voting Now Open For The 2011 Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition
Voting is now open for the 2011 Reel Rock Film Tour Filmmaking Contest
Access Fund, Jeep Team Up For National Conservation Team & New Access Fund Smartphone App
News from the Access Fund including how they are teaming up with Jeep to employ two people in a national trail building campaign and a new Access Fund smartphone app for both iOS a...
Ethan Pringle Repeats Sky (V14)
With his time in Rocklands coming to an end Ethan Pringle nabbed a repeat of Daniel Woods' Sky (V14) last week. Check out some footage of the send by clicking here . Pringle has a...
Video Friday - 7/29/2011
A brief update on what I've been up to and some Video Friday videos...
Numerous Hard FAs Near Cape Town By Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson releases a climbing movie and climbs a slew of hard new boulder problems near Cape Town, South Africa
Difficult Wyoming Crack Climb Sees 2nd Ascent
Black Diamond has a nice report with pictures from Andrew Burr about J.P "Pee Wee" Oullete's 2nd ascent of Home On The Range , a difficult crack in Vedauwoo, WY first climbed by Ju...
DiGiulian, Ondra Take Overall Gold At World Championships In Arco, Italy
Adam Ondra and Sasha DiGiulian highlight the results from the 2011 Climbing World Championships that took place in Arco, Italy
3rd Ascent Of Jaws II (5.15a) By Mike Foley
Mike Foley nabs the 3rd ascent of the Rumney, NH testpiece Jaws II (5.15a)
Video Friday - 7/22/2011
Some videos for your Friday...
American Youth Climbing Well
DPM seems to have the youth beat covered pretty well these days with stories about 14 year-old Stefan Lavender climbing 5.14a in Ten Sleep , the Raboutou kids (and parents) climbin...
CCH Alien Cams Are Coming Back
After a year and a half of negotiating with CCH Alien creator David Wagoneer's widow, Fixe-Faders will bring Aliens back to market later this year
Tim Kemple Explores When Being "Inspired" Goes Too Far
Tim Kemple explores when being "inspired" goes too far : We’ve all heard the saying that ‘imitation is the sincerest sign of flattery’. But a question that keeps coming more freque...
DPM Interviews Nick Duttle
DPM has a nice interview with Nick Duttle detailing his background and how health challenges haven't stopped him from climbing 5.14 and V14. There's also this nice video of him cli...
New Guidebook To Colorado's Alpine Bouldering Areas
What else if there left to say about the alpine bouldering found in places like Rocky Mountain National Park and Mt. Evans? The scenery is stunning, the boulders are massive, the p...
Video Friday - 7/15/2011
Some videos for your Friday...
Hard Multipitch In Switzerland By Nina Caprez
Nina Caprez reports here here and here that she did the first female ascent of the 240m route Silbergeier (difficulties up to 5.13d/5.14a) in Rätikon, Switzerland. PlanetMountain i...
Colorado Alpine Update
After the summer of 2010 saw an explosion in development thanks mainly to the efforts of Dave Graham, the summer of 2011 looks to be one of repeats and consolidation in Colorado's...
Urban Climber's Adam Ondra Interview
Urban Climber has posted the big feature interview they did for a recent issue with Adam Ondra . A lot of interesting tidbits throughout so definitely check this one out if you can...
Possible 5.15a FA By Enzo Oddo
16 year-old Enzo Oddo blogs (in French) about his FA of La moustache qui fâche (5.15a) in Entraygues, France. Oddo has now done 3 5.15s including this really famous one .
Registration Open For 2011 Triple Crown Bouldering Series
Registration for the 2011 Triple Crown Bouldering Series is now open with a newly-shuffled lineup of stops
Climbing Shortlisted For 2020 Olympic Games
A year after gaining recognition by the IOC, climbing is on the shortlist of events that could be added for the 2020 Olympic Games
Video Friday - 7/8/2011
Ahem... IT'S FRIDAY And now for some good videos... Alex Honnold Profile Chris Webb Parsons & Alex Puccio Bouldering In The UK Leavenworth Spring Fling Chris Webb Parsons Boulderin...
Ethan Pringle Getting It Done In Rocklands
After a bit of a hiatus Ethan Pringle is back with a mega blog detailing what he's been up to the past few months since he left the U.S. Of particular note is his recent sending sp...
2011 Reel Rock Tour Website Unveiled
The Reel Rock Tour has unveiled their website for the 2011 edition of the show giving more insight into what films we can look forward to seeing
2011 Bouldering World Cup Sheffield Results
Results from the Sheffield stop on the 2011 Bouldering World Cup circuit
Popular Posts & Videos For June 2011
Popular Posts & Videos for June 2011
Video Friday - 7/1/2011
A few words about the end of my trip to Colorado, the schedule for the Bouldering World Cup in Sheffield this weekend and Video Friday videos
Well-Known Youth Climbing Coach Mike Lyons Arrested On Sexual Assault Charges
A well-known coach in the youth climbing community is arrested after being accused of sexually assaulting a member of his team
Longhope Direct: 5.14ish Trad FA By Dave MacLeod
After years of sporadic work Dave MacLeod has finished off the first free ascent of Longhope Direct on St. John's Head in Orkney, Scotland
Phil Schaal Climbing Well In Rocklands
27Crags reports that Phil Schaal is down in South Africa where he's managed to send many of the well-known classics including a flash of Green Mamba (V12) and a send of Fred Nicole...
Productive Trip To Washington For Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist leaves behind two 5.14 FAs after a successful trip to Washington
Alex Honnold On His Solo Of The Phoenix
A few weeks back Alex Honnold, who was in the Valley for a shoot with 60 Minutes , soloed the iconic route The Phoenix (5.13a) in Yosemite, CA. Planetmountain caught up with both H...
Results From 2011 UBC Pro Tour EMS Pro & Bouldering World Cup Barcelona
Results from this past weekend's UBC EMS Pro in Central Park and the Bouldering World Cup in Barcelona, Spain
2011 UBC Pro Tour Eastern Mountain Sports Pro Finals Live Blog
Results from the semi-finals round of the UBC Pro Tour Eastern Mountain Sports Pro as well as a live blog of Finals!
2011 UBC Pro Tour Eastern Mountain Sports Pro Gets Underway, Finals Stream Live Saturday
The UBC Pro Tour's Pete Ward kicks off their Eastern Mountain Sports Pro with a guest post about the road to comp climbing in the Big Apple. Be sure to check back for a live strea...
2011 Bouldering World Cup Eindhoven Results
Results from the most recent bouldering World Cup in Eindhoven, Netherlands that saw an American male find his way onto the podium
Petzl GriGri 2 Recall
Potential problems with the break lever lead to a recall of the Petzl GriGri 2
New & Updated Guidebooks For Joe's Valley, Yosemite Big Walls, Joshua Tree, Summersville Lake, RRG & The Obed
A look at a some new guidebooks that have come out recently for Joe's Valley bouldering, Yosemite big walls, Joshua Tree, the Red River Gorge, Summersville Lake and Gauley River an...
Video Friday - 6/17/2011
Video Friday and a brief update about our trip to Colorado
Bouldering World Cup Circuit Visits The Netherlands This Weekend
Schedule for this weekend's bouldering World Cup in Eindhoven, Netherlands and news of a lead World Cup coming to Atlanta in 2012
Final El Cap Report
After a 5 year run Tom Evans is pulling the plug on his daily reports from El Capitan in Yosemite
Daniel Woods Interviewed About World Cups, Sport Climbing & More
Peter Beal caught up with Daniel Woods to do an interview for Beal's upcoming book's website
Videos From Adam Ondra's Trip To The UK
To go along with today's Video Friday post is this excellent recap of Adam Ondra's trip to the UK which includes footage of him sending Overshadow (5.15a) and onsighting Bat Route...
Video Friday - 6/10/2011
Videos from Dave Graham, the Vail Bouldering World Cup and talk about "local" blogs
American Alpine Club Making Changes, Launching New $25k Conservation Grant Program
The American Alpine Club launches their Five Year Plan as well as the Cornerstone Conservation Grant program
More From Webb & Voges At Mt. Evans
Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges continue to get things done at Mt. Evans according to their respective scorecards with Webb repeating Dave Graham's Big Worm (V14) at Area A and Voges re...
Siegrist Just Does It
Jonathan Siegrist tweeted yesterday that he has done J. B. Tribout's Just Do It (5.14b or c) in Smith Rock, OR. Look for further updates on his excellent blog .
John Bachar's Training Journals
I don't remember where it was I saw this but a few weeks back someone shared this link to an interesting blog post that went through a few days from John Bachar's training journals
Nick Duttle Getting It Done Out East
Nick Duttle has been keeping busy this spring splitting his time between Kentucky's Red River Gorge and West Virginia's New River Gorge. Peeking at his scorecard we can see that si...
2011 Teva Mountain Games: Vail Bouldering World Cup Final Results
Final results from the Bouldering World Cup at the 2011 Teva Mountain Games in Vail, CO
2011 Teva Mountain Games: Vail Bouldering World Cup Starts Today
The IFSC Bouldering World Cup at the 2011 Teva Mountain Games in Vail, CO begins this morning with proceedings kicking off live on IFSC.tv at 9:00 AM MDT
Video Friday - 6/3/2011
Videos from Endovalley, the Ozarks, France, Boulder Canyon and more...
News From Lincoln Lake
The 2011 season is on at Mt. Evans' Lincoln Lake and to start things off Jimmy Webb has done the 3rd ascent of Dave Graham's We Can Build You (V14) . He and Brion Voges also made q...
Ryan Palo Nabs 2nd Ascent Of Shoot'm Up (5.14b) In Smith Rock
Ryan Palo has done the 2nd ascent of Pierre Bollinger's Shoot'm Up (5.14b) in Smith Rock, OR . Writing on his blog about the ascent Palo offers some excellent advice about sticking...
Popular Posts & Videos For May 2011
A look back at the stories and videos you were clicking on the most in May of 2011
News & Notes - 6/1/2011
News & Notes from Ethan Pringle, Nina Caprez, Carlo Traversi, Jimmy Webb, potential problems with the GriGri 2 and much more...
2011 Bouldering World Cup Canmore Results
Results of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup held in Canmore, Alberta, Canada
Video Friday - 5/26/2011
A getaway weekend edition of Video Friday with videos from Font, Yosemite, Clear Creek Canyon and more...
Bouldering World Cup Visits Canada This Weekend
The IFSC bouldering World Cup circuit hits North America this weekend with a stop in Canmore, Alberta, Canada. As expected, there will be many familiar names on hand with more Ame...
Full FFA Of Hallucinogen Wall In Colorado's Black Canyon
PlanetMountain has an interview with Austrian Hansjörg Auer on the heels of his FFA of Hallucinogen Wall (5.13+ R) in Colorado's Black Canyon. The route had been done mostly free b...
More Thoughts On RRG And Access Situations In General
In the wake of yesterday's news of the closure of Roadside at the Red River Gorge many people took to Facebook and message boards to register their displeasure with the news. Emoti...
Access Alert For California State Parks
Keeping with the access theme , Prana has a post on their blog about the pending closure of 70 California State Parks including several that offer access to climbing like Caste Roc...
Dave Graham Back In The Blogging Mix
After a few year break Dave Graham is back to blogging, this time on Five Ten's website
Access News From The Red River Gorge
The extended Memorial Day weekend will be here in short order and for many climbers the 3-day weekend affords us the opportunity to hit the road to our favorite climbing destinatio...
Report From 2011 New River Rendezvous
The 2011 edition of the New River Rendezvous went down in West Virginia last weekend and DPM was there to capture the weekend in words and video .
3 Climbing Media Interviews With Chin, Fryberger & Pavlicek
Not much doing on the news front from the weekend, but there are a few interviews done recently with Jimmy Chin, Chuck Fryberger and Petr Pavlicek that I thought were worth sharing...
Video Friday - 5/20/2011
Before the videos get started I wanted to offer a little more background on the video of Adam Ondra's FA of Chaxi Raxi (5.15b) . Writing on his newly redesigned blog , Andrew Bisha...
Potential V13 By Therese Johansen In Norway
Norway's Therese Johansen repeats Bernd Zangerl's Propaganda, a potential V13 in Norway
2011 Dominion Riverrock Bouldering Comp Results
The World Cup wasn't the only comp taking place last weekend as a small field comprised of many of America's strongest boulderers including Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Sasha DiGiu...
Ondra Gets Revenge At Malham Cove, Does 2nd Ascent Of Overshadow (5.15a)
Adam Ondra returns to England to nab the 2nd ascent of Steve McClure's Overshadow (5.15a) at Malham Cove. UPDATED
2011 Bouldering World Cup Vienna Results
Alex Puccio takes 2nd at the 2011 Bouldering World Cup in Vienna, Austria plus another American joins the fun!
El Cap Report Returns For 2011
Tom Evans is back at his usual spot on the bridge beneath El Cap in Yosemite, CA, posting photos and updates for all to enjoy !
Video Friday - 5/13/2011
The weekend is back and so is Video Friday, but first a some news on live climbing going on this weekend as the Bouldering World Cup hits Vienna, Austria
More On The Bouldering In RMNP's Endo Valley
Colorado has a new bouldering hotspot in the Endo Valley region of RMNP. Last week Dave Graham established a potential V14 up there and here Jamie Emerson updates us on the latest...
Nice Profile Of Christian Core
iCLIMB.com brings us a nice video profile of Italy's Christian Core
Hard 5.14/Easy 5.15 2nd Ascent By Enzo Oddo
Enzo Oddo reports on his website that he's done the 2nd ascent of Aubade Directe , a route somewhere in the hard 5.14/easy 5.15 range at Sainte Victoire, France that was first done...
Strong First Quarter For Black Diamond, Inc.
Black Diamond, Inc., the parent company of both Black Diamond and Gregory Packs , reported first quarter results for 2011 on Monday, announcing an increase in sales of 18% to $39.1...
Registration Open For UBC Pro Tour Stop In Central Park
More details on the upcoming stop on the UBC Pro Tour that will culminate with finals staged in New York's Central Park
Grading Thoughts From Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson put together a list of all the hard boulder problems he's done over the years, offering his revised opinion on the grade each problem based on some of the climbs he's...
Review: Petzl GriGri 2
A look at the new GriGri 2 from Petzl
2011 Bouldering World Cup Slovenia Results
Alex Puccio takes 3rd at the 2011 Bouldering World Cup in Log-Dragomer, Slovenia, plus I try my best to explain the World Cup scoring system...
Video Friday - 5/6/2011
The trailer for Chuck Fryberger's "The Scene" as well as your Video Friday videos...
Two 5.15s In A Day At Oliana For Chris Sharma
Since turning 30 a few weeks back do you think Chris Sharma spends his free time watching the Climbing After 30 series to keep his motivation up?? Whatever he's doing is working b...
Popular Posts For April 2011
A look back at the stories and videos you were clicking on the most in April of 2011
Ghetto Booty (5.14c/d) Sees First Repeat
Climbing.com reports that Mexico's Mauricio Huerto has done the 2nd ascent of Ghetto Booty (5.14c/d) at Mt. Charleston some 11 years after it was first done by the legendary French...
Potential V14 FA In RMNP By Dave Graham
Dave Graham adds a potential V14 to the Endo Valley area of Colorado's RMNP
Daniel Woods Video Interview
DPM has posted a video interview with Daniel Woods in which they discuss grades, FAs and Woods' future plans with some snippets of him climbing in Magic Wood thrown in for good mea...
Time For A Shoe Checkup?
A confluence of factors have led me to the inescapable conclusion that I need to buy a new pair of climbing shoes...
Mason Earle Frees Hard Crack In Indian Creek
Via Sender Films come news that Mason Earle climbed what he considers to be his hardest desert crack yet when he was the first to free the 2nd pitch of Hot Pork Sunday in Indian Cr...
Report From The 2011 Collegiate Climbing Series
A report from the final event of the 2011 Collegiate Climbing Series
Nice Weekend For Alex Puccio In Magic Wood
Alex Puccio has been keeping busy in between World Cups events, sending Jack's Broken Heart (V12) and The Right Hand Of Darkness (V11) in Magic Wood, Switzerland according to her 8...
Video Friday - 4/29/2011
A few words on a new movie called The Southeast Showdown, a nice piece on Jason Kehl's "The Seventh Circle" and the most popular videos of the last 7 days...
News & Notes Bonus Edition - 4/29/2011
A few bonus News & Notes from Emily Harrington, Dorothea Karalus, Enzo Oddo and more...
2nd Ascent Of Graham's Coup de Grace By Gabriele Moroni
Italy's Gabriele Moroni does the 2nd ascent of Dave Graham's Coup de Grace in Sonlerto, Switzerland
News & Notes - 4/27/2011
A few News & Notes from Nik Berry, Daniel Woods, Adam Ondra, the Petzl Roc Trip China, a new iPhone app guidebook for Joshua Tree and more
Nat Geo Shines The Spotlight On Yosemite's "Superclimbers"
Climbing in Yosemite takes center-stage in the May 2011 issue of National Geographic Magazine
Another Potential 5.15b By Adam Ondra In Spain
Adam Ondra does his 4th 5.15b of the year...and it's only April
Video Friday - 4/22/2011
Videos featuring Chris Sharma, Enzo Oddo and more...
Daniel Woods On Fire In Switzerland
Daniel Woods does his 3rd V14 or harder in a week in Magic Wood, Switzerland
Chris Sharma Does First Ascent Of First Round First Minute In Margalef
Chris Sharma nabs the long-awaited FA of his First Round First Minute project in Margalef, Spain
3rd Ascent Of Practice Of The Wild (V15) & Ill Trill By Daniel Woods UPDATED
Daniel Woods does the 3rd ascent of a Chris Sharma testpiece in Magic Wood, Switzerland. Updated with news of Woods doing the 3rd ascent of Ill Trill, also in Magic Wood.
Results From 2011 Canadian Bouldering Championships & 1st Bouldering World Cup Of 2011
A pair of international comps went down over the weekend in Canada at the Canadian Bouldering Championships and in Milan, Italy at the 1st leg of the 2011 World Cup that featured s...
PlanetMountain Follows Up With Ondra On Chilam Balam
PlanetMountain has an excellent interview with Adam Ondra discussing his quick repeat of Chilam Balam (5.15b) last week .
Video Friday - 4/15/2011
Friday is here and so are the videos...
How to Start a Climbing Website in 3 Easy Steps
Guest post from Crux.com co-founder Matt Paden on 3 steps to starting a climbing website
Adam Ondra Makes Quick Work Of Chilam Balam
Adam Ondra makes quick work of one of the world's hardest and most notorious unrepeated routes
Pair Of Interesting Outside Magazine Articles About Chin & Honnold
A pair of interesting articles about Jimmy Chin and Alex Honnold on Outside Magazine's website caught my attention recently
News & Notes - 4/12/2011
News & Notes from Nina Caprez, Cedric Lachat, Kevin Jorgeson, Fred Nicole and much more...
2nd Ascent Of Pure Imagination (5.14d) By Adam Taylor
DPM reports with an interview that Adam Taylor has done the 2nd ascent of Jonathan Siegrist's Pure Imagination (5.14d) at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. This is Taylor's 2nd 5.14...
More On Ashima Shiraishi's Trip To Hueco
An update on 9 year-old Ashima Shiraishi's trip to Hueco Tanks that saw her send a handful of double digit problems and a heartbreaking near send of a V12
Video Friday - 4/8/2011
Somber news about Renan Ozturk and Jimmy Chin and amazing video of Adam Ondra onsighting 5.14c in Oliana
Golden Direct (5.14d) Repeated By Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist does the likely 3rd ascent of a hard Joe Kinder testpiece in southern Utah
2011 Reel Rock Film Tour & Flimmaking Contest
This fall the Reel Rock Film Tour will be back with their 6th installment, and like last year there will be no main event movie so to speak but rather a collection of shorter clips...
Mark Anderson Adds First 5.14 To Shelf Road
Mark Anderson recently added the first 5. 14 to Colorado's Shelf Road when he did the first ascent of Apogee Pending . Check out this interview Anderson did with Splitter Choss to...
Beautiful Soup
If there is one recurring theme about my climbing you probably picked up from reading this site over the years is that I get injured. A lot. In fact, injury was the main impetus fo...
Alex Savage Is Green In The Face
Alex Savage 's roadtrip around the western U. S. rolls on as he seeks out problems to film for his upcoming movie Western Gold . His latest stop found him in Idaho's Castle Rocks S...
Daniel Woods Arrives In Europe
Daniel Woods has embarked on a trip to Europe which will include stops in Varazze, Italy (presumably to try the unrepeated V16 Gioia ) and Ticino, Switzerland. Before getting to th...
DiGiulian, Midtbø Win 2011 SCS Open National Championships UPDATED
The 2011 SCS Open National Championships went off this weekend in Boulder, CO with Magnus Midtbø and the red-hot Sasha DiGiulian taking the top spot on their respective podiums.
Popular Posts & Videos For March 2011
A look back at the stories and videos you were clicking on the most in March of 2011
Video Friday - 4/1/2010
Videos from Cuba, Sweden, Australia and more...
Pair Of Sasha DiGiulian Interviews
Following up on Sasha DiGiulian's amazing week of climbing that saw her redpoint 2 5.14cs , onsight a 5.14a and a .13d and send 7 other 5.13s are these pair of interviews she did:...
Another Hard Send For Thomasina Pidgeon In Bishop
Thomasina Pidgeon writes on her blog that she recently repeated Beautiful Gecko (V12) at Bishop, CA's Sad Boulders. In addition to talking a bit about how the problem has increased...
2011 SCS Open National Championships Start Tomorrow
While the annual ABS Nationals bouldering competition seems to generate a lot of buzz among competitors and spectators alike, the yearly SCS Nationals sport climbing competition al...
First Ascent Of Beautiful Line In Red Rocks By Pete Lowe
Under the radar crusher Pete Lowe has added a new problem called The Shining Path to the boulders of Red Rocks, NV that is among the hardest and most beautiful in the area.
Joe Kinder Does FA Of Tiger Blood (5.14c)
Joe Kinder is about to bail on the U.S. and embark on a pretty amazing sounding roadtrip through Europe and South Africa, but before he could get to that he had some unfinished bus...
4th Ascent Of Echale (V14) By Phil Schaal
Phil Schaal reports via his blog that he has done the likely 4th ascent of Echale , a V14 in Colorado's Clear Creek Canyon first done by Daniel Woods in 2004.
5.15b FA And 5.14c Onsight In A Day By Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra's 2 week holiday to Spain ended with a 5.15b FA and 5.14c onsight at Oliana
Video Friday - 3/25/2011
Before we get to today's videos I wanted to take a moment to draw your attention to a piece from a recent issue of Climbing that has been posted on their website. Entitled Lake Eff...
More News From Kentucky UPDATED
More hard sends going down at the Red River Gorge. UPDATED
Paul Robinson Ends Road Trip On High Note
Paul Robinson ended his 9 month road trip on a high note by sending another V15 in Fontainebleau
Competitive Bouldering Coming To Central Park With The UBC Eastern Mountain Sports Pro
The next stop on the 2011 UBC Pro Tour is official: comp climbing is coming to New York City's Central Park
5.14a Onsight By Sasha DiGiulian In The Red River Gorge
Sasha DiGiulian is having a pretty good week in Kentucky's Red River Gorge sending Southern Smoke (5.14c) on Saturday and now, according to her Facebook profile, onsighting the 130...
Multiple Hard Boulders For 9 Year-Old In Hueco Tanks
Big Up Productions is out in Hueco Tanks shooting some footage of 9 year-old Ashima Shiraishi . According to their Facebook page she has done Chablanke (V11 or 12) and Rogered In T...
News & Notes - 3/22/2011
News & Notes from Adam Ondra, Daniel Woods and much more...
Southern Smoke (5.14c) FFA By Sasha DiGiulian
Today at Bob Marley in the Red River Gorge I bore witness to Sasha DiGiulian making an impressive send of Joe Kinder's Southern Smoke (5.14c) for the route's first female ascent. M...
Video Friday - 3/18/2011
No times for words on this Friday so let's get right to the videos. Have a great weekend everyone!
Climberism Magazine
Not much time to write this week unfortunately, but I wanted to draw your attention to an online magazine I've been checking out recently, Climberism . Climberism is an online webs...
Potential 5.15a FA In Santa Ana By Adam Ondra
With the warm up out of the way, Adam Ondra turns his attentions to more long term challenges on his current road trip to Spain. News also from Daila Ojeda...
Another Repeat Of Esperanza (V14)
Ian Dory writes on UGB that he did Esperanza (v14) in Hueco Tanks after "more then 100 goes". In addition, he spent some time putting up a few new problems which you can see here .
Carlo Traversi Repeats The Game (V15?) In Boulder Canyon
A who's who of Boulder's climbing elite gathered under Boulder Canyon's Cob Rock today to have a go at Daniel Woods' The Game, a previously unrepeated proposed V16. After the dust...
Video Friday - 3/11/2011
Bourbon talk and excellent videos from Arkansas, the UK, Yosemite and Rifle
Another Hard New Boulder In Hueco By Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods capped off a productive season of new problems in Hueco Tanks yesterday with the FA of The House Of Doom (V13) according to his 8a scorecard . In the scorecard comment...
PlanetMountain Interviews Ondra Regarding 5.14c Onsights
Following up on this week's news about Adam Ondra onsighting multiple 5.14cs is this interview he did discussing these ascents with PlanetMountain.com. Among the factors that contr...
Another Pair Of 5.14c Onsights For Adam Ondra In Spain?!
Adam Ondra actually improves on his recent "world record" of 2 5.14cs in 2 days by doing 2 in one day!
Notable Sends In Bishop & Hueco Tanks
A few notable sends by Enzo Oddo, Jason Kehl and Dave Graham
The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) 2nd Ascent By Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson grabs the 2nd ascent of Dave Graham's The Story Of Two Worlds in Cresciano, Switzerland. UPDATED with pictures.
5.14 Onsight Spree By Adam Ondra In Spain
Adam Ondra builds on his recent 5.15b FA by onsighting 2 5.14cs in Extauri, Spain
Alpinist's Speed Climbing Series
Alpinist recently interviewed Alex Honnold, Dean Potter and Sean Leary for a series on speed climbing
How To Identify Petzl Counterfeits
To followup on last month's warning about counterfeit Petzl products , Petzl has produced this handy chart to help you decide if your Petzl gear is genuine or not.
Popular Posts & Videos For February 2011
Popular posts and the most highly rated videos for February of 2011
Video Friday - 3/04/2011
Spring break talk and videos from Daniel Woods, Sean McColl, Nigel Callender and more...
Time For Sendage?
A look at a new site for creating ticklists and tracking your climbs called Sendage
Access Victories In California & Tennessee
Congrats to everyone that helped to "unlock" California's Jailhouse Rock raising over $49,000 to aid in the acquisition of that property. Congrats also go out to everyone that help...
Chris Webb Parsons Interview & Video
Interview with Australia's Chris Webb Parsons as well as a recent video profile put together for iCLIMB.com
More From Tommy Caldwell On Climbing In Keketuohai
More from Tommy Caldwell's trip to the "Tuolumne of China", China's Keketuohai National Geological Park
Necessary Evil (5.14c) Repeated By Jonathan Siegrist
After an extended battle against "frustration, terribly fickle conditions, and some severely height dependent cruxes" Jonathan Siegrist clips the chains on Necessary Evil (5.14c)
Video Friday - 2/25/2011
Videos from Fred Nicole, Sean McColl, Jimmy Webb and more!
Action Alert Regarding NPS Wilderness Fixed Anchor Proposal
The Access Fund has posted a call for climber input regarding the National Park Service's draft of its wilderness management policies which was released back in January. This poli...
First 5.13d For Heather Robinson
Via her 8a scorecard comes news that Heather Robinson has done Power Windows (5.13d) at Nevada's Mt. Potosi. You can see a picture of her on the route on Jorge Visser's new blog .
Reach
Thoughts on the new climbing film Reach from Rogue State Films & Nathan Bancroft
News & Notes - 2/23/2011
A smorgasbord of News & Notes to get you through your Wednesday
New Moe's Valley Bouldering Guidebook
A quick look at the new Moe's Valley bouldering guidebook and a new production company in the desert southwest
And Now For A Cleansing Of The Palette...
Surely all of the indoor pebble wrestling talk that has permeated this site of late has rubbed some of you the wrong way. While I love indoor climbing just as much as the next guy...
More Sends In Font For Robinson
Paul Robinson is still in Fontainebleau where in recent days he dispatched with Sideways Daze (V13) and La Force Du Destin (V14) according to his 8a scorecard . The former was the...
Potential 5.15b "La Capella" By Adam Ondra In Siurana
Just weeks after his 18th birthday Adam Ondra does the FA of perhaps his hardest route yet in Siurana, Spain
Jorgeson's Ambrosia Highball Repeated By 15 Year-Old Enzo Oddo
Ambrosia, the tall line on the south face of the Grandpa Peabody boulder at Bishop's Buttermilks made famous by Kevin Jorgeson's FA in Progression, saw its 4th ascent yesterday at...
DMM Size 4 & 5 Cam Recall
DMM has issued a recall for size 4 & 5 Dragon cams. Read more about what products are affected on their website .
Drive On (V11) Repeated By Natasha Barnes
Natasha Barnes reports on her blog that she has done Drive On (V10/11) in Yosemite, CA. First done by Randy Puro back in 2005 and featured in the Valley Bouldering segment of Dosag...
2011 ABS 12 Nationals Final Wrap-Up
A final look back at 2011 ABS 12 Nationals
World's Tallest Climbing Wall Coming To Reno?
If all goes to plan Reno, NV will be home to the world's tallest climbing wall by this summer
2nd Ascent Of Fantasia (V13) By Jimmy Webb
According to his 8a scorecard Jimmy Webb has done the 2nd ascent of Daniel Woods' Fantasia (V13) at Matthew Winters Park near Denver, CO. In addition, he ticked off Free Range (V13...
2011 ABS 12 National Bouldering Championships Final Results
Final results of the 2011 ABS 12 National Bouldering Championships won by Sean McColl and Alex Puccio
Warning About Chinese Counterfeits Of Petzl Products
Petzl has a warning on their website about counterfeit versions of some of their popular gear like the Attache carabiner and the Ascension jumar. Not surprisingly these rip-offs do...
Live Blogging Coverage Of 2011 ABS 12 National Bouldering Championships Finals
Live blogging the coverage of the final round of the 2011 ABS 12 National Bouldering Championships
2011 ABS 12 National Bouldering Championships Qualifier Results
Results from the qualifying round of the 2011 ABS 12 National Bouldering Championships in Boulder, CO
Only The “Highest Caliber Of Wood Grained Sandstone” For Brion Voges…
According to his 8a.nu scorecard Brion Voges has recovered from a recent finger injury sufficiently enough to do the 4th ascent of Dave Graham's Wood Grain Grippin' (V14) at the bo...
Video Friday - 2/11/2011
Videos of Leo Houlding, Dave Graham, Brian Antheunisse, Matt Wilder, Steph Davis and Sam Davis...
Another Day, More Hard Sends In Bishop For Nalle Hukkataival
This may have to become a recurring item but Nalle Hukkataival spent another day out on the boulders of Bishop, CA and he came away with quick 1 day sends of The Mandala (V12) and...
Hard Sends In Bishop For Hukkataival, Glairon-Mondet
According their respective 8a scorecards Nalle Hukkataival has done The Swarm (V13/14) and Guillaume Glairon-Mondet has done The Mandala SDS (V13/14), both in Bishop, CA. Hukkataiv...
2011 ABS 12 National Bouldering Championships Starts Friday, Streams Live Online Saturday
The 2011 edition of ABS Nationals kicks off Friday in Boulder, CO. While the event is returning to familiar ground this year there a couple of changes worth noting.
Upcoming Comps At Shades Crest, Hueco Tanks & HP40
Details about upcoming bouldering comps at Shades Crest, Hueco Tanks & HP40
Paul Robinson Interview & V15 Repeat In Fontainebleau
An interview with Paul Robinson as well as news about another hard send in Fontainebleau, France
Woods & Metcalf Take Down 2011 Dark Horse Series Championship
In a warmup for this weekend's ABS Nationals, Daniel Woods and Francesca Metcalf bested a strong field at the 2011 Dark Horse Series Championship at Metrock in Everett, MA.
Popular Posts & Videos For November 2010
DPM has a nice write-up about the recent Outdoor Retailer Winter Market trade show put together by John Wilder (aka vegastradguy ). Check it out for a good summary of the latest of...
Popular Posts & Videos For January 2011
Popular posts and the most highly rated videos for January of 2011
Video Friday - 2/4/2011
Thoughts about last weekend's Quick on the Draw climbing comp as well as the most popular videos of the past week
Paul Robinson Shares His Favorite Bouldering Spots With Outside Blog
In this guest post on the Outside Blog Paul Robinson shares five of his favorite bouldering areas in the world.
David Lama Reconsiders Cerro Torre Plans?
In what seems like a final update on last week's David Lama "news" , Colin Haley reports that Lama has decided to forgo his plans to rap bolt on Cerro Torre. Unfortunately for all...
Climbing Mag Interviews Chris Sharma
Climbing Magazine has gone ahead and posted the feature interview with Chris Sharma from their current issue on their website
Alex Johnson Sends The Mandala
Just the other week Alex Johnson mentioned in the comments of the Bucket List post that the iconic boulder problem The Mandala (V12) was high on her list of problem she was looking...
New Denver Area V13 By Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods has notched another potential V13 in his proverbial belt with the FA of Fantasia at Denver's Matthews/Winters Park. Clocking in at 27 moves, Fantasia adds a long serie...
Ménégatti Gets 2nd Ascent Of The Big Island (V15)
France's Lucas Ménégatti nabs the second ascent of one of Fontainebleau's most difficult testpieces
Video Friday - 1/28/2011
Thoughts on an upcoming climbing comp and videos from Joe Kinder, Jimmy Webb and Adam Ondra
More From Colin Haley On The David Lama Saga
Following up on Monday's post regarding the David Lama story down in Patagonia , Colin Haley provides an update on his blog clarifying a few points he made previously.
Barefoot On Sacred Ground (V12) Repeated By Portia Menlove
Portia Menlove reports via her 8a scorecard that she's done Barefoot On Sacred Ground (V12) on North Mountain at Hueco Tanks. Based on her scorecard this is her first problem of th...
Thoughts On My First Outdoor Retailer Trade Show
Last week I made the journey out to Salt Lake City to take in the sights and sounds of my first Outdoor Retailer Trade Show. Some people go there to learn about the new gear, othe...
Will Gadd Updates On Helmcken Falls Spray Ice Project
Will Gadd has an update on his ice climbing project on the insane looking spray ice at Helmcken Falls, Canada which he's been working with Tim Emmett. Gadd calls it "the wildest, b...
Deep Creek Access Fundraiser
Late last year the Southeastern Climbers Coalition announced a fundraising drive for a new tract of land purchased near the sport climbing area Deep Creek and the boulders of the S...
Outside Blog Interviews Ethan Pringle
The Outside Blog caught up with Ethan Pringle to discuss his comeback from injury, his FA of Spicy Dumpling (5.14d) , his efforts to repeat Jumbo Love (5.15b) and more. Check it ou...
News & Notes - 1/25/2011
Has it really been almost 2 months since we last did this??? Hopefully this massive round-up of News & Notes will get me back in your good graces...
David Lama Patagonia Controversy Renewed For Another Season
David Lama and his Red Bull team are back in Patagonia for another go at his project to free climb Cerro Torre's Compressor Route. Much like last year, controversy has not been fa...
Video Friday - 1/21/2011
Video Friday videos from Fontainebleau, Arkansas, Paul Robinson & Jonathan Siegrist
NE2C, USA Climbing Joining Forces
Last week NE2C Productions, the group behind the Unified Bouldering Championships, and USA Climbing, the National Governing Body of Competition Climbing in the U.S. announced they...
What's On Your Climbing Bucket List?
As climbers we often have goals and lists of things we'd like to do in the upcoming months and years. Whether it's a specific route or boulder problem we are hoping to do, a partic...
Trip Reports From Afghanistan, Mongolia & Montenegro
Black Diamond's athletes and employees share stores from trips to Afghanistan, Mongolia & Montenegro
New V14 From Jimmy Webb In Arkansas
Still recovering from a finger injury, Jimmy Webb opens hard new boulders at Arkansas' Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Esperanza (V14) Repeated By Matty Hong
Via Under Ground Bouldering comes news that Matt Hong has repeated Esperanza (V14), the popular Fred Nicole testpiece on Hueco Tanks' North Mountain. This was Hong's first problem...
Video Friday - 1/14/2011
Videos of Yuji Hirayama and bouldering in the Southeast and Fontainebleau highlight this edition of Video Friday
Alex Johnson Back In Bishop, Climbing Well
Via 8a.nu comes news that Alex Johnson is back in Bishop where she recently dispatched of the excellent Haroun And The Sea Of Stories (V11/12) at the Buttermilks. You can read more...
Chris Sharma Opens New 5.15 In Santa Linya
Chris Sharma opens a potential 5.15 dubbed Catxasa in Santa Linya, Spain
Tommy Caldwell, Male Model?
Back before Tommy Caldwell embarked on his push up El Cap's Dawn Wall last fall he took some time out to do some... male modeling ?
Review: 70m Petzl Nomad 9.8mm Rope
A review of the Petzl Nomad 9.8mm x 70m climbing rope
Aussies Getting It Done In Hueco
Alex Puccio, Portia Menlove and a pair of Australians are getting things done in Hueco Tanks
Prana's Chris Sharma Anthology
Prana launches a cool anthology feature looking back at the career of Chris Sharma
PCI Followup
For additional clarification on last week's post about Professional Climbers International is this interview Peter Beal did with PCI's President, Kevin Jorgeson .
Report From 2011 Ice Climbing World Cup In Cheongsong, South Korea
News from the ice climbing world including winners of the Mixed Climbing comp at Ouray and a report from the Ice Climbing World Cup held in Cheongsong, South Korea
What’s In The Mags: December 2010
The holidays have me a bit behind on things, but here is a quick look at what was in the December issues of both Climbing and Urban Climber
Video Of Jonathan Siegrist On Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) At The Red River Gorge
Arc'teryx has a nice video up on their website of Jonathan Siegrist climbing on his new route Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) at Kentucky's Red River Gorge . Check it out here .
Give Ice Climbing A Try?
Winter is here for much of us in the U.S. which means limited options for climbing outside. Most of us turn to the gym to prepare for the coming spring thaw. That's a fine plan. It...
First Repeat Of 20+ Year-Old 5.14 By Cody Roth
Late last year Cody Roth managed the first repeat of a route called Malvasia (5.14c after broken holds) in Croatia some 20+ years after its first ascent by Mauricio "Manolo" Zanoll...
New Partnership With Professional Climbers International
The astute among you may have noticed a bit of a change to the design of this site yesterday. This change coincides with the launch of Professional Climbers International (PCI), a...
Orange Crush
Alex Savage, who brought us the excellent short film Swanky Swizzy, is back with his latest offering, Orange Crush.
More V14s For Paul Robinson In Fontainebleau
Building on the strong start to his time in Fontainebluea, France, Paul Robinson added a couple more V14s to his 8a scorecard over the past few days with fast repeats of Gecko Assi...
Popular Posts & Videos For December, All Of 2010
A quick look back at the most popular posts and videos from December and all of 2010
Another Hard FA In Hueco Tanks By Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods adds yet another hard new boulder problem in Hueco Tanks
Paul Robinson Hits The Ground Running In Fontainebleau
Paul Robinson has moved on from Switzerland and set up shop in Fontainebleau, France with predictable results
Potential New 5.14 At The Puoux
Joe Kinder reports on his blog that he did the first ascent of 31º at the Puoux near Glenwood Springs, CO yesterday. Check his post for a cool photo sequence of him on the route fo...
News & Notes: Hueco Tanks Edition
The winter season is in full effect in Hueco Tanks, TX with several interesting sends going down in recent weeks
Rich Simpson & The Burden Of Proof
The UK's Rich Simpson comes under fire for refusing to substantiate several high-end sporting claims, including ascents of routes like Action Directe
New Campground Coming To The New River Gorge
The American Alpine Club has announced plans to open a climber's campground at the New River Gorge on 40 acres of land they've purchased in Fayetteville, WV. The campground, which...
Chris Sharma Back In Action At Oliana
Chris Sharma is back with another FA of anther 5.15 in Oliana, Spain
Hard 5.14 FA By Ethan Pringle In Yangshuo
Ethan Pringle does the FA of an open Chris Sharma project in Yangshuo, China
Review: Southern Nevada Bouldering Guidebook
A look at Tom Moulin's new Southern Nevada Bouldering guidebook
From Dirt Grows The Flowers Left Variant (V15) Repeated By Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson's strong season of bouldering in the Swiss canton of Ticino continues, this time with the likely 5th ascent of Dave Graham's From Dirt Grows The Flowers (V15) in Chir...
New 5.14 At The Fossil Cave By Joe Kinder
Joe Kinder escaped the snow and cold of Rifle, CO down to southern Utah's St. George area where he got right to work on an undone Randy Leavitt route at the Virgin River Gorge's Fo...
DPM Interviews Porter Jarrard
DPM has a nice interview up with Red River Gorge legend Porter Jarrard who, at age 44, is climbing as well as he ever has with multiple 5.14a sends to his name in the last year.
Alex Honnold Up For Nat Geo's Adventurer Of The Year
Alex Honnold is nominated for National Geographic's Adventurer Of The Year and news from his expedition to Chad with James Pearson, Mark Synnott, Jimmy Chin, Renan Ozturk and Tim K...
Things Get Spicy In Yangshuo For Ethan Pringle
Fresh off a successful trip to the Red River Gorge, Ethan Pringle jetted over to Yangshuo, China where his results have been similarly impressive
Action Alert For North Carolina's Chimney Rock State Park
The Access Fund has an alert on their website concerning a plan being proposed for North Carolina's Chimney Rock State Park. The plan allows for continued climbing at established a...
2010 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Stone Fort Results
Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras continue their dominance of the 2010 Triple Crown Bouldering Series at a wet Stone Fort
Popular Posts & Videos For November 2010
ClimbingNarc.com was dominated by one topic in November: Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's push to free their Dawn Wall project on El Cap. Thanks to modern technology we were abl...
Paul Robinson Repeats Ninja Skills (V14)
27Crags reports that Paul Robinson did the 2nd ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Ninja Skills , a beautiful and long V14 in Sobrio, Switzerland. According to the report Robinson felt i...
Video-ish Friday: 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour DVD
Looking for the perfect stocking stuffer for the climbing addict in your life? Then look no further than the 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour which is now available on DVD and digital dow...
Hard Trad FAs At The New River Gorge By Goodman & Wilder
Pat Goodman and Matt Wilder pull off 2 hard trad FAs in West Virginia's New River Gorge with Chuck Fryberger on hand to capture the sends for his upcoming movie The Scene
2 Swiss V15s For Adam Ondra
According to his scorecard Adam Ondra did his 2nd V15 in as many days yesterday with a repeat of Dave Graham's From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico, Switzerland. On Monday he r...
Dawn Wall Debrief From Kevin Jorgeson
Interview with Kevin Jorgeson after his and Tommy Caldwell's unsuccessful attempt to free their Dawn Wall project on El Capitan
What's In The Mags: November 2010
Better late than never, here is November's climbing magazine rundown
News & Notes - 11/29/2010
Feast on the latest edition of News & Notes with news about several repeats of Dave Graham V15s in Europe, a tragic accident in Red Rocks, a lesson about the importance of helmets...
DPM Launches Climbing After 30 Video Series
Deadpoint Magazine launches a new video series about climbing after 30
Contest: Win A 2010 Access Fund Holiday Pack
Find out how you can win an Access Fund Holiday Pack stuffed with goodies
Caldwell & Jorgeson's Dawn Wall Push Ends...For This Year
Tommy Calwell and Kevin Jorgeson's attempt to free a new route on El Capitan's Dawn Wall comes to an early end
Caldwell & Jorgeson's Dawn Wall Push Nears End Of Week 1
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's push to free a new line on El Capitan's Dawn Wall is 6 days old now. When we last checked in with the duo on Tuesday morning they had finished P...
Access Secured At California's Jailhouse, Access Fund Needs Your Help
The Access Fund has secure permanent access to Sonora, California's Jailhouse crag thanks to the dedicated efforts of locals, cooperation with private landowners and a $100,000 loa...
Jonathan Siegrist Does FA Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) At Red River Gorge
Jonathan Siegrist cleans up another longstanding 5.14 project at Kentucky's Red River Gorge
Going It Alone
Back in the fall of 2008 I spent a great many days venturing out to the local bouldering areas here in Wisconsin on solo missions to what were, for the most part, deserted areas. U...
More Updates From The Dawn Wall
A brief update after the first 3 days of Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's push up a new free route on El Capitan's Dawn Wall
Brion Voges Lost In The Hood
According to his 8a scorecard Brion Voges has done the 3rd ascent of Dave Graham's Lost In The Hood (V14) in Cowell, AR. You can see video of the ascent here courtesy of Jimmy Webb...
News From Across The Pond
A few noteworthy sends from across the pond last week by Bernhard Schwaiger, Dai Koyamada, Chris Webb Parsons, Dave MacLeod and Pierre Bollinger
Push Begins On El Cap For Caldwell & Jorgeson
After years of hard work and preparation Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson set off yesterday morning to attempt a ground up send of their project on El Capitan's Dawn Wall
Kehl, Smith & Takeda Talk Zanskar Odyssey
Hear Jason Kehl, Abbey Smith and Pete Takeda talk about their recent bouldering expedition to Zanskar, India
2010 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: HP40 Results
Results from the second leg of the 2010 Triple Crown Bouldering Series at Horse Pens 40 (HP 40), AL
Productive Weekend At The Red River Gorge For Siegrist & Pringle
It was a busy weekend for hard sending at the Red River Gorge's Chocolate Factory with Jonathan Siegrist and Ethan Pringle both sending hard 5.14s
New Speed Record On The Nose By Potter And Leary
According to SuperTopo and Speedclimb.com Dean Potter and Sean Leary teamed up to set a new speed record for climbing The Nose on El Capitan. The pair blazed up the wall in at an a...
2 5.14bs By Danny Robertson In Rifle
Danny Robertson did his 2nd 5.14b of the season yesterday with his repeat of Dave Graham's Girl Talk in Rifle, CO. Previously he had also repeated Andy Raether's Stockboys Revenge...
The Dagger (V14) Repeated By Paul Robinson
27Crags reports that Paul Robinson repeated The Dagger (V14) in Cresciano, Switzerland suggesting that with optimal beta the problem felt like climbing 2 V11s in a row which math m...
Sender Films Co-Creators On Last Call With Carson Daly
Check out the guys from Sender Films on Last Call With Carson Daly
Help The Southeastern Climbers Coalition Win A $250,000 Grant
See how you can help the Southeastern Climbers Coalition win a $250,000 grant from Pepsi to help preserve climbing access in the southeast
News & Notes - 11/03/2010
News & Notes from Rifle, the Red River Gorge, Switzerland, the Petzl Roc Trip and more...
Alex Honnold & Will Stanhope Team Up To Repeat Southern Belle
Alex Honnold & Will Stanhope teamed up to repeat Southern Belle, one of the most notoriously runout routes in all of Yosemite
Popular Posts & Videos For October 2010
Check out which posts and videos you were clicking on the most during the month of October 2010
Sender Films' First Ascent Series To Air On The Travel Channel
It's been rumored for some time but now it's official: Sender Films' First Ascent: The Series will finally be airing in the U.S. this week on the Travel Channel.
New Free Route On El Cap
Leo Holding and Jason Pickles add a new free route to Yosemite's El Capitan
How Does Your Local Wall Stack Up?
Check out this climbing wall in the Netherlands that weighs in at a staggering 120 ft tall
Interview With Flannery & Asher Shay-Nemirow
Interview with siblings Flannery & Asher Shay-Nemirow
What's In The Mags: October 2010
A look at the latest issues of Climbing, Deadpoint and Urban Climber for October 2010
Chris Sharma Wins Innovative Deep Water Soloing Comp In Spain
Chris Sharma won an innovative DWS comp in Bilbao, Spain over the weekend which has a lot of people talking
Carlo Traversi Sends The Dagger (V14) In Cresciano
Carlo Taversi is having himself quite the year...
Woods, Puccio & Litz Establish Hard Boulders
This weekend saw some interesting news on the bouldering front with hard FAs by the likes of Daniel Woods, Alex Puccio and James Litz
Possible V13 At Rock Creek By Charlie Barrett
The Bishop Bouldering Blog reports that Charlie Barrett established a sit start to Compression Session (V9) at Rock Creek near Bishop, CA to yield a potential V13 called Lessons ....
Sailing, Jamming And Climbing On The West Coast Of Greenland
Nicolas Favresee, Sean Villanueva, Olivier Favresee and Ben Ditto spent their summer sailing up and down the west coast of Greenland climbing some amazing new big walls
Potential V15 In Magic Wood By Chris Webb Parsons
Americans aren't the only ones getting things done on the boulders of Switzerland, Australia's Chris Webb Parsons has been cleaning up several area classics and he recently establi...
The Season Begins For Tommy Caldwell & Kevin Jorgeson On El Cap
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson are back in Yosemite for the Fall season to have another go at their well documented project on El Capitan's Dawn Wall
Adam Ondra Visits Madagascar
Adam Ondra (not pictured) took a break from school at the end of last month to go to Madagascar of all places and, as usual, he did not leave empty-handed.
Potential 5.14c By Joe Kinder In Rifle
Rock & Ice reports that Joe Kinder did the FA of Waka Flocka Flame at Rifle, CO's Project Wall. This line links up Waka Flocka (a 5.14b Kinder did the FA of in August ) and Living...
Brian Kim Repeats Iron Monkey (5.14) In Eldorado Canyon
Deadpoint Magazine reports that Brian Kim made a rare repeat of the trad testpiece Iron Monkey (5.14) in Eldorado Canyon, CO. First done by Matt Segal in 2006, Iron Monkey climbs a...
Weekend Of Yosemite Bouldering
A recap of my 5 day trip to Yosemite last week
Americans On The Takedown In Switzerland
Americans Carlo Traversi, Alex Puccio and Paul Robinson are having an excellent start to the bouldering season over in Switzerland including the FA of a potential V15 in Magic Wood...
Jen Vennon Repeats The 7 P.M. Show (5.14a) In Rifle
Rock & Ice reports on their website that Jen Vennon repeated The 7 P.M. Show (5.14a) in Rifle, CO. Female 5.14 sends are somewhat rare in Rifle and the R&I story does a nice job co...
Pair Of Lincoln Lake Season Wrap Ups
Jamie Emerson & Chad Greedy offer their summaries of the 2010 season at Lincoln Lake plus a brief promo for a new movie about the area
The China Glide (5.14d) Repeated By Vasya Vorotnikov
According to his 8a.nu scorecard Vasya Vorotnikov did the 3rd ascent of The China Glide (5.14d) in Rumney, NH. The China Glide, which links all of China Beach (5.14b) into the end...
The Never Ending Story (V14) Repeated By Carlo Traversi
Carlo Traversi writes on his blog that he completed The Never Ending Story (V14) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. Check out video of the ascent here .
Jason Kruk Interview
"When one of the funniest and most outrageous things imaginable happens to you and is caught on film, I reckon it's your duty to share it with the world."
2010 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Hound Ears Results
Results from the first leg of the 2010 Triple Crown Bouldering Series at Hound Ears, NC
Jaws II (5.15a) Repeated By Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods nabs the 2nd ascent of one of the country's hardest sport routes
Just Do It (5.14c) Repeated By Enzo Oddo
According to Prana's blog 15 year-old French phenom Enzo Oddo is on a visit to the U.S. where he has already managed a fast 2 day repeat of J.B. Tribout's Just Do It (5.14c) at Smi...
Popular Posts & Videos For September 2010
Here are the most popular posts and videos for September 2010
Potential V15 In Norway By Magnus Midtbø
Magnus Midtbø does his hardest boulder problem yet with the FA of Blood Redemption in Matre, Norway
Rocktoberfest 2010 & Updated Red River Gorge Guidebook
Rocktoberfest hits Kentucky's Red River Gorge next weekend. What better time to put your new guidebook to use??
FFA Of Grand Ol' Opry (5.14) By Paige Claassen
Paige Claasen has succeed in repeating Grand Ol' Opry (5.14) for its first female ascent and only its 4th ascent overall
Climbing Legend Kurt Albert Killed In Fall
German climbing legend Kurt Albert has passed away after falling some 60 feet from a via ferrata in Bavaria on Sunday
Lincoln Lake Season Winding Down
The season at Mt. Evans' Lincoln Lake is nearing its end, but not before a few more hard boulders are sent...
First Female Ascent Of The Riverbed (V13) By Anna Stöhr
27 Crags reports that Anna Stöhr nabbed the FFA of The Riverbed (V13), a long power endurance problem in Magic Wood, Switzerland.
2010 UBC Pro Tour At The Nor'easter Final Results
Final results from the last stop on the 2010 Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour
Live Blogging The 2010 UBC Pro Tour Nor'easter Qualifiers
Come chat about the 2010 UBC Pro Tour qualifiers at the Nor'easter
Paul Robinson Closes The Book On The Never Ending Story
It's hard to believe it has already been 2 years since Paul Robinson broke his ankle taking a bad fall of The Never Ending Story (V14) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. After a long road...
What's In The Mags: September 2010
A look at the the issues of Climbing, Rock & Ice, Deadpoint and Urban Climber for September 2010
Final Stop Of 2010 UBC Pro Tour Streams Live Friday & Saturday
Catch the final stop of the 2010 Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour live on the internet this Friday and Saturday
More On Tommy Caldwell's China Trip
More details and pictures from Tommy Caldwell's recent trip to China
News & Notes - 09/21/2010
News & Notes from the European Championships, Alex Honnold, Steve Wempler and more
It’s "Wash, Rinse, Repeat" At Lincoln Lake For Graham & Woods
Stop me if you've heard this before : another week, another hard boulder added to the talus near Mt. Evans' Lincoln Lake by Dave Graham and Daniel Woods. This has become such a con...
Alex Honnold Interviewed By Outside Magazine's Blog
Outside Magazine's The Outside Blog catches up with Alex Honnold to discuss his thoughts on climbing fast, climbing alone and climbing without a rope .
Jon Cardwell's Brazil Ticklist
Jon Cardwell is back in Colorado after a month spent exploring the bouldering in Brazil. His ticklist from the trip is, to put it mildly, not bad. In addition to repeating a slew o...
Tommy Caldwell & Crew Explore The "Tuolumne Of China"
What happens when Tommy Caldwell rallies a crew to the far reaches of China to climb in an area where noone has ever been allowed to climb...
Paul Robinson Back In Switzerland
Paul Robinson is back in Switzerland doing what he does best
Enzo Oddo Sends Another Hard 5.14, Gets Interviewed About Realization
The young French phenom Enzo Oddo did another 5.14d last week , repeating Tony Lamiche's Condé de choc at Entraygues, France. Petzl also posted this nice interview with the 15 year...
Zach Lerner Sends V14 In Switzerland
I meant to post this awhile back but it slipped through the cracks. Kairn (via UKClimbing ) reported back in August that Zach Lerner did the 3rd ascent of Daniel Woods' Rememrance...
Chris Sharma Tries A Little Yoga...
What happens when one of the world's best rock climbers gives Yoga a try???
Kryptonite (5.14d) Repeated By Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrists succeeds in his quest to repeat Kryptonite (5.14d) at the Fortress of Solitude in western Colorado
Big Summer For Dave Graham Continues
Dave Graham continues his excellent summer with yet another potential V14 at Lincoln Lake. UPDATED with video
New Guidebooks To Stone Fort Bouldering, Yosemite Top Ropes & Sport Climbs
Two new guidebooks to tell you about today, one covering top ropes and sport climbs in Yosemite and the other the bouldering at Tennessee's Stone Fort AKA Little Rock City.
Another Repeat of RMNP Testpiece Jade
DPM reports that Dan Beall added his name to the growing list of climbers who repeated the RMNP, CO testpiece Jade . Originally given V15 after its FA by Daniel Woods back in 2007,...
News & Notes – 9/8/2010
News & Notes from Adam Ondra, Brent Perkins, Phil Schaal, Black Diamond and MUCH more...
2010 Reel Rock Film Tour Trailer
Trailer for the 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour, coming soon to a city near you
Daniel Woods & Dave Graham Add Potential V15 At Lincoln Lake
With the addition of Warrior Up (V15) at Mt. Evans' Lincoln Lake, Daniel Woods & Dave Graham have teamed up to establish a contender for one of the hardest boulder problems in the...
Getaway Day
It's "getaway day", the day before a long weekend filled with climbing......or not
Sharma 5.14 Repeated In China
The Black Diamond Journal reports that Liuyong Bang did the 2nd ascent of Spicy Noodle in Yangshuo, China. Spicy Noodle was first done by Chris Sharma last year at 5.14b however a...
Popular Posts & Videos For August 2010
After a quiet month of July, which mainly stemmed from my 2 week vacation, ClimbingNarc.com was firing on all cylinders during the month of August. Here is what you were reading a...
Multiple 5.14s In Rifle By Joe Kinder
Joe Kinder reports on his blog that he did the FA of Waka Flocka , a possible 5.14b he bolted in Rifle, CO after relocating to the Western Slope last month. Kinder also repeated Li...
Interview With The Denver Bouldering Club
Last year the aptly named Denver Bouldering Club opened its doors to members offering 24 hours access to 1,500+ square feet of dedicated bouldering terrain. Since I've been seeing...
5.15b By Magnus Midtbø In Rodellar
A rare repeat of a proposed 5.15b by Norway's Magnus Midtbø
Another Hard Boulder At Lincoln Lake
Daniel Woods took down another hard project at Mt. Evans, CO's Lincoln Lake the other day with his FA of the so-called "Big Wall" project. Woods registered the new boulder on his 8...
PuntX (5.14d) Repeated By Sean McColl
Sean McColl recently repeated PuntX (5.14d) in Gorges du Loup, France, and you can read the excellent recap of his efforts on the route in his latest blog entry .
More On Angie Payne's Automator FFA
One last post on Angie Payne's FFA of The Automator (V13) in RMNP,CO . You can read some of her thoughts in this write-up she did for the Five Ten Blog and there is also this nice...
First Ascent: The Series DVD Box Set Now Available
As promised back in February the critically acclaimed television series from Sender Films called First Ascent: The Series is now available for purchase in a 3-disc box set.
2nd Ascent Of Monkey Wedding (V15) By Paul Robinson
It sounds like Paul Robinson has ended his 2 month trip to South Africa's Rocklands with a bang
Hard Repeat For Anthony Chertudi At Causey
According to his scorecard Anthony Chertudi has repeated Vampire Direct (5.14c) at Causey, UT . Vampire Direct, which adds an "extremley crimpy and body intensive V12" start to an...
Weekend News
A few notable sends that caught my eye recently and sad news from the Alps...
One Less Fred Nicole B3 Boulder In Rocklands
One of Fred Nicole's unrepeated and proposed V15ish boulder problems in Rocklands, South Africa was repeated the other day. No, it wasn't Paul Robinson repeating Monkey Wedding , r...
First Stone Fort Bouldering Guide To Be Released Soon
Just in time for the prime conditions of the year, Greener Grass Publishing will be releasing the first guidebook to bouldering at Tennessee's Stone Fort (formerly Little Rock City...
Contest: Win A Copy Of The Petzl All Access DVD
Find out how you can win a copy of the Petzl All Access DVD
Angie Payne Repeats The Automator (V13) In RMNP
Angie Payne pulls off an impressive ascent of The Automator (V13) in Rocky Mountain National Park,CO
Alex Honnold's Half Dome/El Cap Solo Link-up In His Own Words
Alex Honnold shares with the Black Diamond Journal how he went about soloing Half Dome and El Capitan in a half day push
Review Potpourri
Reviews of Andrew Bisharat's How-To book on sport climbing, Five Ten's Team 5.10 shoe and Yosemite Jean, and movies Herakleia and Perfecto
News & Notes - 08/16/2010
Youth seems to be the theme of this edition of News & Notes...
Climbers Are Sexy, But Is The Sport Getting Too Sexy??
A recent study looking at the "attractiveness" of certain sports that was originally discovered by RockClimberGirl.com has been getting a lot of attention on various climbing websi...
Oh, The Places You'll Go
If there's one thing I miss the most when I'm not climbing it has to be the travel. For me, and I think many of you probably feel the same way, there's something strangely addictin...
Potential V14 By Dave Graham At Lincoln Lake
B3Bouldering reports that Dave Graham has done the FA of another potential V14 up at Mt. Evans' Lincoln Lake called The Mote in God's Eye . Graham's latest edition brings the numbe...
Review: The Island Volume 1
A review of the The Island Volume 1, a new movie from Chad Greedy and Dave Graham
Paul Robinson Goes Long On The Big Short
Paul Robinson adds a potential V14 to the 8 Day Rain Sector of Rocklands, South Africa
Alli Rainey Reports On Success In Ten Sleep
Alli Rainey checks in with the Prana Blog to report of her recent success in Ten Sleep, WY
4 In A Day On The Chief
Will Stanhope and Alex Honnold teamed up the other week to free 4 routes on the Chief in Squamish in a sub 14 hour push. Read Stanhope's report on his blog .
Hard Sends For Sasha DiGiulian In Europe
According to her 8a.nu scorecard , Sasha DiGiulian repeated Philipe Cuisinere (5.14a) in Rodellar, Spain. In recent weeks she done hard 5.13 in Arco, Italy and Ceuse, France.
Vote In The 2010 Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition
Voting for the 2010 edition of the Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition is now open until September 10th
Access Alert In Arches National Park
The Access Fund has issued an access alert for Utah's Arches National Park in the hopes of restoring climbing opportunities there after Dean Potter's climb of Delicate Arch in 2006...
Woods, Puccio Win At 2010 UBC Pro Tour ORSM
Daniel Woods & Alex Puccio come out on tap at the Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour's stop at the 2010 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market
UBC Pro Tour At 2010 ORSM Live Blog
Check here for a recap of the Live Blog of the 2010 UBC Pro Tour's stop at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market.
Ondra, Noguchi Win 2010 Bouldering World Cup
Adam Ondra and Akiyo Noguchi win the Bouldering World Cup in Munich & they win the overall title for the 2010 Bouldering World Cup as well
Love For A Rocklands Local
A little love for Rocklands local Arjan de Kock
Ten Sleep
A few words on our trip to Ten Sleep and other stops out west earlier this month
Interviews With Peter Mortimer, Dave Graham & More
A couple of interesting interviews to share. One with Peter Mortimer from Sender Films and the other a group discussion on ClimbTalk radio between Rob Pizem, Chad Greedy, Dave Gra...
First V14 For Jesse Bonin In South Africa
American Jesse Bonin is in Rocklands, South Africa for the summer and according to his 8a.nu scorecard he recently succeeded in doing his first V14, Derailed . Check his blog for u...
(Another) Hard FA From Daniel Woods At Mt. Evans
Another week, another new V14 * new hard boulder from Daniels Woods at Mt. Evans' newest hotspot Lincoln Lake. Woods logged his latest FA on his 8a scorecard as The Exfoliator and...
Paul Robinson Back In Rocklands
Paul Robinson heads back to Rocklands, South Africa as part of his multi-year road trip around the world
New Belay Devices In The Offing
An updated GriGri from Petzl is among the notable new belay devices coming in 2011
Ethan Pringle Wheel Of Life Photos
Simon Carter has some nice pictures up on his blog of Ethan Pringle's recent repeat of Wheel Of Life (Vhard/5.long) at the Grampians in Australia. Check them out here .
Things That Happened While I Was Away
A few stories from the past few weeks that caught my eye including World Cup Bouldering, climbing on El Cap and more...
UBC Pro Tour At 2010 ORSM Streaming Live Online, Live Blogged Here
Hi there. Hello. Um, how does this blogging stuff work again??
Popular Posts & Video For June 2010
Popular posts & videos for June 2010
No More Greener Grasses (V12) FFA By Angie Payne
B3Bouldering reports that Angie Payne has ticked No More Greener Grasses (V12) at Mt. Evans, CO "in a stunning effort" for its first female ascent. Look for video of the ascent som...
5.14b FA By Jacinda Hunter In Utah
Jacinda Hunter has done the first ascent of a long-standing project in Utah's American Fork Canyon that could potentially be 5.14b
New V14 From Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods reports on his blog that he did the FA of a potential V14 dubbed Evil Backwards at the new bouldering hot spot Lincoln Lake near Mt. Evans, CO.
Brief News & Notes - 6/28/2010
A few News & Notes from over the weekend...
Joy Trip Project Interviews Chris Sharma
Via Prana's blog is this nice audio interview that The Joy Trip Project did with Chris Sharma when he was at the New River Rendezvous last month.
Wheel Of Life Repeated By Ethan Pringle
16 months after a devastating shoulder injury Ethan Pringle returns to top form in Australia
Another Nice Day For Alex Honnold In Yosemite
What did you do yesterday?? I think I might have climbed 500 ft. at the gym over the course of a couple of hours. Alex Honnold, on the other hand, had a pretty productive day out...
More Hard Female Sends
The Summer of the Woman ™ continued this week out on the boulders as Angie Payne dispatched Clear Blue Skies at Mt. Evans calling it "definitely not V12. I guess V11" while over in...
Accident At New River Gorge Offers Learning Experience
A tragic accident at the New River Gorge over the weekend offers a valuable learning experience
Another V12 For Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio fought through the terrible conditions that plagued Colorado over the weekend long enough to nab the FFA of The Centaur (V12) in RMNP.
More On Black Diamond/Gregory Merger
A brief followup on the recent reverse merger of Black Diamond and Gregory into 1 publicly traded company
7th Ascent Of Jade
As expected , Jimmy Webb did the 7th ascent of Jade in RMNP, CO yesterday suggesting a downgrade to V14. Check out his blog for the video .
5.14a FFA For Paige Claassen In Washington
In his latest blog entry Jonathan Siegrist reports that Paige Claassen has done the FFA of Motley Crux (5.14a) at Deep Creek near Spokane, WA.
Access Fund, RRGCC Team Up To Refi Land At Red River Gorge
Fairly big access news concerning the Red River Gorge today as the Access Fund is helping the RRGCC restructure their loan on the increasingly popular Pendergrass-Murray Recreation...
2010 Teva Mountain Games: Vail Bouldering World Cup Final Results
Final results of the Bouldering World Cup at the 2010 Teva Mountain Games in Vail, CO won by Daniel Woods and Chloé Grafiaux
2010 Teva Mountain Games: Vail Bouldering World Cup Semi-final Results
Results from the Semi-final round of the Bouldering World Cup at the 2010 Teva Mountain Games in Vail, CO
2010 Teva Mountain Games: Vail Bouldering World Cup Men's Qualifier Results
Results from the Men's qualifying round of the Bouldering World Cup at the 2010 Teva Mountain Games in Vail, CO
2010 Teva Mountain Games: Vail Bouldering World Cup Women's Qualifier Results
Results from the Women's qualifying round of the Bouldering World Cup at the 2010 Teva Mountain Games in Vail, CO
Sonnie Trotter Back In Action
After spending the end of last year recovering from a ruptured appendix, Canada's Sonnie Trotter is back in top form again with two notable ascents in the past couple of weeks.
2010 Bouldering World Cup Vienna Results
Results from the 2010 Bouldering World Cup event held in Vienna, Austria as well as a few thoughts on the upcoming World Cup at the 2010 Teva Mountain Games
Jimmy Webb Continues His Climb
Jimmy Webb 's seemingly inexorable climb through the bouldering grades continued last weekend with repeats of 2 RMNP V13s in 1 day. He dispatched Don't Get Too Greedy and Top Notch...
Climbing Magazine & Urban Climber Magazine Sold
On the heels of an already active first half of the year, more changes are in the works at the magazines Climbing and Urban Climber
Popular Posts & Videos For May 2010
A brief recap of a Memorial Day weekend spent at the Red River Gorge and Popular posts and videos for May of 2010
6th Ascent Of Jade
6th ascent of one of Colorado's hardest boulders by Carlo Traversi
2 Interviews With Dai Koyamada About Recent Sends
On the heels of his repeat of The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) Dai Koyamada recently did interviews with both DPM and The Low Down . Check out his thoughts at the respective links.
The Anti Cam
Just a few short months after first posting about it the web based TV show The Season , which followed athletes in a variety of outdoor sports as they progressed through a season o...
5.14d FA By Chris Sharma
Daila Ojeda reports that Chris Sharma did the FA of Era Bella (5.14d) in Margalef, Spain. Check her blog for a couple of pictures.
Waterworks Fundraiser
Find out how you can help open The Waterworks, a new bouldering area at the Gunks in New York
El Cap Report Back For Spring/Summer 2010
The El Cap Report , a near daily update on who is climbing what on Yosemite's El Capitan replete with close-up photos of climbers on the big stone, is back in action for the season...
Dave Graham Visits Sweden
Dave Graham made a short trip to Sweden last week to give lectures and check out the local climbing scene. During his brief stay he found time to repeat Houdini Assis Left (V13), s...
Battle In The Bubble Results
Two familiar faces come out on top at Boulder's Battle In The Bubble...
Alex Johnson Wins Bouldering World Cup In Switzerland
American Alex Johnson wins the first bouldering World Cup event of the 2010 season. UPDATED
Battle In The Bubble Live Broadcast This Saturday
This weekend's Battle In the Bubble bouldering competition in Boulder, CO will be broadcast live on the internet
Near Onsight Of 5.13 Multipitch By Tommy Caldwell
On hiatus for the summer from the Mescalito project, Tommy Caldwell teamed up with Super Topo's Chris McNamara to attempt an onsite of the South Face of Mt. Watkin's (5.13a, 19 pit...
2nd Ascent Of The Story Of Two Worlds (Updated)
Dai Koyamada makes the long awaited 2nd ascent of The Story Of Two Worlds, a potential V16 in Cresciano, Switzerland
Alex Honnold In Red Rocks
On a recent visit to Red Rocks outside Las Vegas, NV Alex Honnold soloed the 1000 ft. Original Route (5.12b) on Rainbow Wall and Prince Of Darkness (5.10c) in Black Velvet Canyon,...
Potential New 5.14b At The New River Gorge
Mike Williams adds a potential new 5.14b to West Virginia's New River Gorge. Updated to also include news of a new hard trad line established at the New by Pat Goodman.
Black Diamond Equipment & Gregory Mountain Products Acquired By Clarus Corp.
Prominent companies in the climbing world Black Diamond Equipment and Gregory Mountain Products have been acquired for a combined $135 million. UPDATED with statements from Black...
The Hull Cook Journals
While not rock climbing related per se, the Hull Cook journals being featured lately on Colorado Mojo about living beneath Longs Peak in the 1930s are pretty fascinating reads.
UKClimbing Interviews Adam Ondra
UKClimbing has a long and extensive interview with Adam Ondra discussing his recent visit to the UK which saw Ondra repeat 2 5.14d's and onsight several 5.13d's.
News & Notes – 05/05/2010
A special Access edition of News & Notes with additional news from Adam Ondra, Jimmy Webb, Dai Koyamada and more...
Popular Posts & Videos For April 2010
Popular posts and videos for April 2010
Review: CORE Blu-Ray
Review of the Blu-Ray version of CORE, the latest release from Chuck Fryberger
Full Version Of Red River Gorge iPhone App Now Available
A final version of the Red River Gorge guidebook iPhone app that I previewed last week is now available for download from the App Store for $29.99. I have my copy and it looks real...
3rd Ascent Of Ambrosia By Isaac Caldiero
Isaac Caldiero has done the 3rd ascent ( Jorgeson , Honnold ) of the highball Ambrosia (V11) at Bishop, CA's Buttermilks. Check out the excellent write-up on the Bishop Bouldering...
Good Weekend Of Bouldering For Adam Ondra
Over the weekend at Petrohrad in the Czech Republic Adam Ondra climbed 17 problems V9 and harder including the FA of a V14 called Stix SD .
2010 UBC Pro Tour Earth Treks Roc Comp Results
Results from the 2010 Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour's first stop at the Earth Treks Roc Comp. Updated with more videos...
Essay On Adam Ondra's Multi-pitch Achievements
Black Diamond has an interesting essay on their journal site that details Adam Ondra's impressive sends in 2008 of WoGü (5.14b, 7 pitches, FFA) and Hotel Supramonte (5.14a, 10 pitc...
Free Preview Of Red River Gorge iPhone App Now Available
A lite version of the upcoming Red River Gorge Guidebook for iPhone/iPod Touch is now available for free download
Chris Sharma Visits Bishop
During a brief visit to the U.S. recently Chris Sharma managed to add Spectre (V13) and Haroun And The Sea Of Stories (V11/12) to his ticklist in Bishop, CA.
The North Face's Free Range Turkey
The North Face sends several of its athletes to check out the sport climbing in Antalaya, Turkey
2010 UBC Earth Treks Roc Comp To Stream Live Online
Upcoming bouldering comp to be streamed live online
News & Notes - 4/14/2010
News & Notes from Daniel Woods, Chuck Fryberger, Paul Robinson, the Teva Mountain Games and more...
Big Up's Take On First Round First Minute
Last one. I promise.
Paul Robinson Visits Minnesota
Well, that went fast. Mrs. Narc and I are back from a week-long trip to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. Somehow this was the longest stretch of sport climbing I’ve done in one tri...
Spring 2010 Tin Shed
Looking for something to help get you through your Friday? Look no further than Patagonia's multimedia Tin Shed which got an update for spring 2010.
Being Sponsored Is A Sin?
Is sponsorship in the outdoor sports world a sin???
Pair Of Adam Ondra Interviews
A pair of excellent interviews with Czech climbing prodigy Adam Ondra
Chris Sharma Interview About Climbing First Round First Minute
In a recent interview with Karin.com Chris Shrama talks about how the actual climbing is going with his First Round First Minute project
Latest On Mescalito From Kevin Jorgeson
Matador Sports caught up with Kevin Jorgeson to get the latest on the Mescalite free climbing project he's working with Tommy Caldwell
5.14a Onsight For Dave Graham At Oliana
A bit quiet of late, Dave Graham onsighted Picos Pardos (5.14a) at Oliana, Spain the other day calling it "a real treat". Hopefully this is a sign of good things to come on his pro...
Popular Posts & Videos For March 2010
Popular posts and videos for March 2010
More On Lucid Dreaming From Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson blogs about his recent FA of Lucid Dreaming
The Lowdown On First Round First Minute
Chris Sharma addresses the recent controversy over the First Round First Minute project
Lucid Dreaming AKA Rastaman Vibration Sit Start FA By Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson nabs the FA the Rastaman Vibration Sit Start, the hardest boulder problem in Bishop, CA and one of the hardest in the U.S. UPDATED
Upcoming Spring 2010 Climbing Competitions
Information on 3 upcoming indoor and outdoor bouldering competitions in Colorado, Arkansas and Utah
Live(ish) From El Cap With Kevin Jorgeson
Yesterday Kevin Jorgeson tried a bit of an experiment while working on that well documented free climbing project on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell. Throughout the day Jorgeson posted...
2010 Reel Rock Film Tour & Paul Robinson Update
News about the 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour and Paul Robinson's latest efforts on Bishop's Rasta Man Vibration Sit Start project
Climbing Website Time Machine
Take a trip back in time with this look at what 20+ climbing websites looked like over the years
New 5.14c From Joe Kinder In Southern Utah
Joe Kinder bolted and sent Flight Of The Conchords in southern Utah's Hurricave to yield a new 5.14c. Check his blog and this interview with DPM for more info.
Movement Gym Draws Hannity's Ire
Boulder, Colorado's Movement Gym draws the ire of conservative commentator Sean Hannity...
News & Notes – 3/16/2010
News & Notes from Alex Honnold, Natasha Barnes, GP Salvo, Dean Potter, Yvon Chouinard and more...
Adam Ondra Nabs 2nd Ascent Of Sharma's Golpe de Estado (5.15b)
Adam Ondra ticks one of his hardest yet...UPDATED
Small Amazing Things Taking Place In Bishop...
The exploits of Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges in Bishop gives me a good excuse to re-post a classic Dave Graham video...
2010 Hueco Rock Rodeo Photo Gallery
Merrick Ales has an excellent gallery of photos from the 2010 Hueco Rock Rodeo up on his website that includes plenty of shots of comp winners Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio. There's...
New Indoor Climbing Short Coming From Big Up Productions
Matador Sports goes behind the scenes of Big Up Productions' new indoor climbing short
Putting A Price Tag On Climbing
Could you be bribed to give up climbing forever? How much would it cost??
Interviewed By SplitterChoss.com
In the event that you can’t get your full ClimbingNarc fix from this site alone I did an interview with SplitterChoss.com that you can check out here .
Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Alex Johnson Sign With Nicros
Hold maker Nicros has signed Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson and Alex Johnson to their team to help shape holds and develop products for the 2011 Nicros line-up. Word on the street is...
Kentucky Champagne
Sandstone and Bourbon...
News & Notes - 3/4/2010
News & Notes from Chris Sharma, Daila Ojeda, Chris Webb Parsons, Hueco Rock Rodeo Results and much more...
Core Trailer
As seems to be the norm after returning from an extended absence from technology, I'm having a hard time processing all that happened in the world of climbing since we left for HP4...
Popular Posts & Videos For February 2010
Popular posts and videos for February 2010
Rock & Ice Interviews Top Climbing Photographers
Andrew Bisharat at Rock & Ice interviewed several well known climbing photographers for a recent magazine piece and he posted the various answers to 6 of his questions on R&I's web...
News & Notes – 2/23/2010
News & Notes of a new V14 in Utah, a new competition series from NE2C, highballs in Bishop and much more...
Climbing One Step Closer To The Olympics?
Climbing clears another hurdle on the path toward becoming an Olympic sport. UPDATED
Update On Alex Honnold's "Alone On The Wall" & First Ascent: The Series
An update on when and where you will be able to see the First Ascent TV series episode "Alone On The Wall" that includes footage of Alex Honnold's free solo of Yosemite's Half Dome...
2nd Ascent Of Ambrosia By Alex Honnold
Alex Honnold has nabbed the 2nd ascent of Kevin Jorgeson's Buttermilks uber-highball Ambrosia . Honnold figured out a slightly easier sequence for the 45+ foot tall line on the Gra...
Simon Carter Talks Photography, Shows Off New Camera
Professional climbing photographer Simon Carter talks about his craft and shows off some HD video shot in Australia's Blue Mountains
Hard Crack Freed In Colorado's South Platte
News of a difficult new line in Colorado's South Platte and a spotlight on the Colorado Mountain Journal
2010 ABS 11 Nationals Adult Qualifiers Results & Videos
Results and media from the qualifying round at the 2010 ABS 11 Open National Championships
Daniel Woods Opens The Game (V16)
Daniel Woods takes it to the next level in Boulder Canyon with the first ascent of The Game (V16)
News & Notes – 02/10/2010
It’s been a bit of a slow news year month week so there’s not much to report of late. ABS Nationals , probably the biggest and most important indoor bouldering comp of the year, wi...
Interesting Developments At Mad Rock
Check out this post at Deadpoint Magazine as they try to piece together the latest developments at climbing gear maker Mad Rock .
Popular Posts & Videos For January 2010
A note about the ClimbingNarc.com Facebook page as well as a summary of popular posts and videos for January 2010
Progression Soundtrack, Movies From BS Productions Available For Download
In addition to the movies I mentioned last month you can now download digital versions of The Players and Spray at Bouldering.com at greatly reduced prices. If you're looking for m...
The Season
Check out The Season, a new web based TV show that follows 5 athletes through a season in the Pacific Northwest
Review: Bouldering Guide To Horse Pens 40 (HP40), Moss Rock & Palisades Park
A review of the upcoming guidebook to bouldering at Alabama's Horse Pens 40 (HP40), Moss Rock Preserve & Palisades Park.
Access Alert In Yosemite
The Access Fund has an alert on their website about some potential negative changes on the horizon for climbers in Yosemite Valley . Check it out to see how you can help.
New 5.14+ Sport Route In Switzerland From Fred Nicole
Via TheLowDown comes belated news of a new hard 5.14 boulder problem/sport route by Fred Nicole in St. Gallen, Switzerland called L'isola che non c'è . You can read more about his...
3rd Ascent Of Terremer (V15) By Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods ticks off another of America's hardest boulders in Fred Nicole's Terremer (V15) at Hueco Tanks, TX
Quick On The Draw 2010
Pictures and a few thoughts after attending the annual competition at my local gym for the 10th time
Actual 2010 Outdoor Retailer Winter Market Climbing Wrap Up
Rockclimbing.com has an excellent wrap up of what various climbing companies had to offer at the recent 2010 Outdoor Retailer Winter Market Trade Show.
News & Notes – 1/27/2010
News & Notes from the OR Winter Market, Chris Sharma, Iker Pou and more
Year End Wrap-Ups From UKClimbing
UKClimbing has a couple of nice year end review type articles that they posted recently to wrap up major news items from 2009. One for sport climbing and one for bouldering .
2010 SCS Open National Championship Results
Results of the 2010 SCS Open National Championships held this past weekend in Sandy, UT. Updated with Video.
A Brief Note
A brief note about my upcoming plans...
Ad Blackout
An interesting look at the ad content of climbing magazines as well as some thoughts on the content of the mags
Alpinist Interviews Will Gadd After Endless Ascent
Alpinist Magazine caught up with Will Gadd after his marathon 24 hour session of ice climbing to learn what his inspirations were among other things. Check it out here .
Paul Robinson On Red Rocks Bouldering
I caught up with Paul Robinson to find out more on his recent bouldering trip to Red Rocks, NV
2009 Year In Review Part 4
A look back at what was making news the last 3 months of 2009
Interview With The Man Behind Frontrangebouldering.com
Examiner.com has a nice interview up with longtime Frontrangebouldering.com webmaster Mike Brooks.
New AAC Grant Inspired By Jonny Copp & Micah Dash
The American Alpine Club has created the Copp-Dash Inspire Award to honor Jonny Copp & Micah Dash
News & Notes – 1/11/2010
News & Notes from Matt Wilder, Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods and MORE. Updated 1/12/10.
Chris Sharma First Round Update From Spain
The Big Up blog has a nice update on Chris Sharma’s efforts to free the First Round First Minute project in Margalef. Apparently he is getting frustrated after falling at least 15...
More Climbing Movies Available As HD Downloads
Continuing a trend that started to take hold in late 2009 with the release of Progression via both DVD and internet download, Bouldering.com has added a nice assortment of climbing...
2009 Year In Review Part 3
A look back at what was making news the months of July, August and September of 2009
Chris Webb Parsons On The Comeback Trail
Almost a year after a debilitating shoulder injury, Australia's Chris Webb Parsons begins his comeback at the Buttermilks
A Not So Merry Christmas For Patxi Usobiaga
Via Kairn is this unfortunate news that Patxi Usobiaga added his name to the already long list of 2009 shoulder blow-ups .
2009 Year In Review Part 2
A look back at what was making news April through June of 2009
Vincent Pochon Keeps It Island
Accomplished Fontainebleau local Vincent Pochon recently repeated Dave Graham’s Font V15 The Island , adding what he felt was a more logical lower start from the right. Kairn.com h...
2009 Year In Review Part 1
A look back at what was making news the first 3 months of 2009
Paul Robinson Arkansas Update
Battling through pretty terrible sounding conditions in Arkansas , Paul Robinson managed the first repeats of Welcome To Fight Club (V13) and Lost In The Hood (V14).
Jonathan Siegrist, American Gangster In Yangshuo
Jonathan Siegrist, fresh off an impressive fall trip to the Red River Gorge, makes fast work of several hard routes in Yangshuo, China.
Beth Rodden On The Road To Recovery
Beth Rodden shares her story as she recovers from a torn labrum
2 V13s For Brion Voges In Hueco Tanks
Brion Voges has done 2 Chris Sharma V13s in Hueco Tanks with sends of Diabolique and Full Throttle . Prior to arriving in Hueco he stopped in Arkansas to send One Inch Pinch (V12)...
Only The “Highest Caliber Of Wood Grained Sandstone” For Paul Robinson…
It seems like an annual tradition at this point that each winter some of America’s strongest boulderers make their way to Arkansas to sample the untapped sandstone that can be foun...
Adam Ondra Flashes V14 In Switzerland
Another week, another impressive piece of news from Czech youngster Adam Ondra. UPDATED with a link to video of Daniel Woods doing the problem as well as additional details.
Chris Sharma, Neanderthal Among Boys
Chris Sharma ticks off another 5.15 project, this time the Neanderthal project in Santa Linya, Spain. Updated with link to pictures and more route info.
What Can You Say About The Grade?
Important to some and meaningless to others, climbing grades have long been a great source of debate to pass the time in between sessions. Recent years have seen an explosion of c...
Interesting Peter Mortimer Interview
The Boston Rock Gym recently interviewed Peter Mortimer from Sender Films where he says (among other things) that King Lines is the best selling climbing DVD of all time and that t...
Super Topo Auction Benefiting Access Fund
Super Topo is running an auction on gear and guidebooks to benefit the Access Fund . Hurry, there are only 6 days left!
R.I.P. Dr. Topo
Free topo website Dr. Topo is shutting down operations...
The Dream Is Not Dead?
Nalle Hukkataival has been hanging out in Ticino, Switzerland where he recently did the first repeat of the stand start to Dreamtime since it broke a few weeks back. Formerly V12,...
CCC And Access Fund To Purchase Bouldering Area In North Carolina
The Carolina Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund have teamed up to purchase the Rumbling Bald West Side Boulders in North Carolina under the Access Fund’s new Land Conservation...
Organic Bouldering Holiday Sale
Our friends at Organic Bouldering are running a holiday sale, but you have to act fast
2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Little Rock City/Stone Fort Results
Results of the final leg of the 2009 Triple Crown Bouldering series as well as the final overall standings
MSA Redpoint Descender Auto Belay Discontinued Indefinitely
Climbers all over the country are going to have to go back to a more quaint time (2002?) when one actually had to make friends in order to climb routes in a gym, at least if their...
Extras From Big Up Productions’ Progression DVD Now Available For Download
80 minutes of extras from Big Up Productions' Progression are now available for download
Cool List Of 5.14d And Harder Climbs/Climbers
Check out this website for a pretty comprehensive list of the world’s 5.14d and harder sport routes along with the climbers that have climbed them.
Photo Friday: Hueco Tanks & RRG
A few photos from Hueco Tanks and the Red River Gorge
Tis The Season In Spain
News from Spain from Chris Sharma, Dani Andrada, Dave Graham, Jon Cardwell and more...
Final Mescalito Dispatch Of 2009 From Kevin Jorgeson
In the final dispatch of the season for the Black Diamond blog, Kevin Jorgeson provides an update on his and Tommy Caldwell’s efforts to free a new line on El Cap. The bottom line:...
Hard Roof Crack Greenspit Sent First Try By Stevie Haston
The ageless wonder Stevie Haston is making news once again, this time for his first try ascent of Didier Berthod’s well known roof crack Greenspit (hard 5.13ish?). Read all about i...
Popular Posts & Videos For November 2009
The top posts and videos on Climbingnarc.com for November 2009
2009 Access Fund Prize Pack Winners
Winners of the 2009 Access Fund Prize Pack contest
New V14 In Austria By Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods is done with the sport climbing game for now and he’s moved on to the bouldering around his temporary home in Innsbruck, Austria. UPDATED
Excellent Alan Watts Interview
Planetmountain.com has an excellent interview with Smith Rock sport climbing pioneer Alan Watts .
“The Disciples Of Gill” Premiers Tonight In Boulder
A new movie about bouldering icon John Gill premiers tonight in Boulder, CO. UPDATED
Nalle Hukkataival Interview
Joost has done a nice interview with well known Finnish boulderer Nalla Hukkataival in which they discuss how Hukkataival began climbing as well as his thoughts on the V15 grade.
Worth The Wait
It only took me 10 years, but I finally climbed at Hueco Tanks
Tim Kemple Goes Behind The Scenes On El Cap
Tim Kemple has been out in Yosemite capturing media of Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson working their much hyped El Cap free climbing project. In his latest blog post Kemple discu...
News & Notes – 11/17/2009
A few News & Notes as I get caught up from nearly 2 weeks away from a computer
Chris Sharma September 2009 Video Interview
A series of video interviews done with Chris Sharma back in September
Contest: Win An Access Fund Holiday Pack
Last year I ran a contest giving away Access Fund Holiday Prize Packs, and I enjoyed it so much we're doing it again this year.
A Sneak Peak At Between The Trees
A few thoughts after watching the new Ty Landman bouldering movie Between The Trees
New Daniel Woods Blogsite
Via B3Bouldering comes news that Daniel Woods has started a new website with a blog, pictures, video, etc. Check it out here .
Not A Bad Ticklist…For A Lifetime
Jonathan Siegrist's ticklist at the Red River Gorge continues to grow
2 5.14c FAs by Charlotte Durif
In the past month, France’s Charlotte Durif has done two 5. 14c FAs, The Wall at Combe La Vielle and the amazing looking roof climb Pull Over at Grotte de Galetas.
Review: Big Up Productions’ Progression DVD
A review of Progression, the latest release from Big Up Productions
Adam Ondra’s Hardest Route Yet
A likely sign of things to come, Adam Ondra has done the FA of what he considers his hardest route yet at a crag near Sardinia, Italy. Dubbed Marina Superstar , Ondra felt the rout...
A Painful Learning Curve
A painful lesson of what can happen highball bouldering, updated with video.
Fred Nicole Repeats Bishop Testpiece
According to the Bishop Bouldering Blog , the nearly 40 year old Swiss bouldering legend Fred Nicole has climbed The Swarm (V14) in Bishop, CA, adding his name to the long list of...
2nd Mescalito Update From Kevin Jorgeson
Back from a week off in New York, Kevin Jorgeson provides another update for the Black Diamond Journal about his and Tommy Caldwell’s efforts on El Cap. El Cap report pictures of t...
Adam Taylor Punches Golden Ticket At The Red
Adam Taylor opens perhaps the most difficult line at the Red River Gorge
Photo Friday
A few photo links to inspire your weekend: bouldering at Castle Rock, ID , sport climbing in Kalymnos, Greece and any post from the El Cap Report .
Jonathan Siegrist Is Motivated, Sends Lucifer (5.14c) With Quickness
Jonathan Siegrist rolls into the Red River Gorge in Kentucky and promptly sends one of the area's hardest sport climbs
Issue 2 Of Squamish Climbing Magazine Now Available
The 2nd issue of Squamish Climbing Magazine is now available for free consumption at this link . Focused almost exclusively on the climbing scene around Squamish, BC, SCM is well w...
First Mescalito Update From Kevin Jorgeson
Kevin Jorgeson provides an update for the Black Diamond Journal on the first week of his and Tommy Caldwell’s efforts to free a new line up El Capitan.
Wheelin N’ Dealin
Matt McCormick survives a few scary falls to open a new R-rated trad climb in New York's Adirondacks
New 5.14 Trad Line Near Boulder
Matt Wilder adds a new trad testpiece Cheating Reality (5.14a R) to the Flatirons outside of Boulder, CO
Hard Sends By Weaver, Robinson, Johnson & Puccio
Brad Weaver has done what I believe to be the 4th the 5th ascent of Mike Doyle's Lucifer (5.14c) at the Red River Gorge, KY. Over in Utah, Paul Robinson did the 2nd ascent of James...
News & Notes – 10/16/2009
News & Notes to wrap up the week...
Deadpoint Magazine 2009 Photo & Video Annual Now Online
Deadpoint Magazine launches their first annual Photo & Video edition
Yet Another 5.14d For Dave Graham
Via TheLowDown comes news that Dave Graham is continuing his return to form, this time with the 3rd ascent of Chocholocco (5.14d) at Carros, France. A few pictures of him on the ro...
The Keymaker Finally Gets Repeated
Boy did I pick a bad day to stay home from Devil’s Lake yesterday...
The Mental Game
Will Gadd had a series of posts recently where he shared a handful of random training thoughts, most of which espouse the benefits of actually doing an activity (i.e. climbing) rat...
Hound Ears 2009 Video: Max Zolotukhin Repeating Random Man (V11)
Dave Wetmore put together a short video of Max Zolotukhin and company doing the first repeat * of Random Man (V11, FA James Litz 2001) at this year’s Hound Ears Triple Crown event...
The (Partial) Cost Of Freeing El Cap
Kevin Jorgeson had a post on his blog recently where he outlined the packing list for his upcoming attempt to free a new route on El Capitan with Tommy Caldwell. In reading over t...
News & Notes – 10/06/2009
News & Notes from Dave Graham, Tommy Caldwell, the Hubers, Adam Ondra and much more...
2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Hound Ears Results
Results from the 2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series stop at Hound Ears, NC. UPDATED with links to more pictures.
Interview With Josh Lowell About Progression, Big Up Productions' Latest Release
Interview with Josh Lowell about Big Up Productions latest movie, Progression, that features Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods and others pu...
Yuji Hirayama: Older, Wiser…And Still Pretty Strong
40-year-old Yuji Hirayama, the legendary all around climber from Japan, made a trip to British Columbia late this summer. Not surprisingly he left with a couple of notable sends th...
Something To Keep In Mind
Last summer while I was wandering around the boulders in RMNP’s Lower Chaos Canyon I stumbled across an odd scene: there was a really strong looking guy getting very close to sendi...
Is Europe Taking America's Lunch on the Rocks? Yes...and No.
To wrap up the discussion from last week about the perceived superiority of European sport climbers compared to American sport climbers is this guest post by Urban Climber Editor J...
First 5.14d For Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods graduates to the 9th grade...
2nd Ascent Of Chris Sharma’s Dreamcatcher (5.14d) By Sean McColl
Chris Sharma's Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish, BC sees a 2nd ascent after rebuffing some of the world's strongest climbers
Why Chris Sharma Doesn’t Boulder More
Ever wonder why you don't hear much about Chris Sharma bouldering these days?
One Less Excuse
As climbers, we often utilize a wide array of excuses for not sending our latest project. One I’ve started working in to my repertoire is that I’m simply “too old” to do something...
Alex Honnold Is The 2009 Robert Hick Bates Award Winner
Each year the American Alpine Club gives out the Robert Hicks Bates Award in memory of Bob Bates who was a “renowned explorer, alpinist, Peace Corps director, and educator, accompl...
Paul Robinson’s New Website
Paul Robinson just launched a new website P-Rob.com . Check it out for more background on Paul’s life as a painter and a professional climber.
Review Of SuperTopo Guides To Zion, Tuolumne
Reviews of SuperTopo guidebooks to Tuolumne free climbing, Tuolumne bouldering and Zion free climbing.
Chris Lindner Repeats Girl Talk (5.14c)
Fresh off a move to Colorado , Chris Lindner has done the 8th 9th (at least) ascent of Dave Graham’s Girl Talk (5.14c) at Rifle, CO according to the Maxim Ropes Facebook page .
News & Notes – 09/15/2009
News from Jon Cardwell, Adam Ondra and Paul Robinson. Notes from Chris Sharma, the Reel Rock Tour and more...
Limited Edition Team 5.10 Vs. Five Ten V10 Comparison
A visual comparison of the new Limited Edition Team 5.10 shoes and the old V10s
2009 Yosemite Facelift & Auction
September 23rd through the 27th is the 6th annual Yosemite Facelift to help clean up Yosemite Valley. Even if you can’t attend in person, you can help the cause by bidding on auct...
New V13 Near Lake Tahoe
Jesse Bonin adds a new V13 to the boulders near Lake Tahoe
Layton Kor Fundraiser
Find out how you can help iconic climber Layton Kor fight mounting medical bills and win a day of guided climbing with well known climbers.
Access Troubles In Vietnam?
Interesting article about potential access problems in Vietnam which has been featured in recent climbing videos The Players and Dosage 3.
Phil Schaal Jade (V15) Video Now Up At MVM
It lives…for now. Footage of Phil Schaal’s 5th ascent of Jade (V15) is up at MVM .
Alex Johnson To Compete In 2009 Arco Rock Master This Weekend
Alex Johnson will be the lone U.S. participant in the 23rd Arco Rock Master this weekend. UPDATED with Results.
Daniel Woods Heating Up In Gorges du Loup
Basically out of hard boulder problems to send in the U.S. during the summer months, Daniel Woods has turned his attention to taking his sport climbing game to the next level*. Wel...
ClimbingNarc.com Mentioned In Latest Rock & Ice
Check out the latest issue of Rock & Ice magazine for an article on the recent Mammut Bouldering Championships which features some quotes from yours truly.
Popular Posts & Videos For August 2009
The top posts and videos on ClimbingNarc.com during August 2009
Outtakes From Swedish Climbing Movie
Via 8a.nu is this cool clip of DWS and sport climbing in Sweden . As an added bonus you get to meet the “eccentric” Jens Larssen.
Anchorpoint
The weather this Summer in Wisconsin has been a climber's dream. Temps have rarely gotten higher than 80 and many perfect sunny days in the 70's have been there for the taking whic...
2009 World Youth Climbing Championship Results
One of America's brightest young rock stars finishes on the podium at the 2009 World Youth Championships in Valence, France. UPDATED
Possible New 5.14 Crack In Vedauwoo
Vedauwoo, WY local Justin Edl has established a contender for the hardest crack climb in the U.S.
Where In The World Is James Litz?
James Litz has been very busy putting up hard sport routes this summer...
Climbing.com Boone Speed Interview
Climbing.com has a nice interview up with 90’s sport climbing icon Boone Speed.
News & Notes – 08/28/2009
Sport climbing news from France and Colorado and a slew of notes...
New Patagonia Tin Shed
Patagonia has updated their Tin Shed multimedia website . This update features climbing in Namibia among other very cool clips. There’s also a good video of Lynn Hill bouldering...
New Climbing Book: Sport Climbing, From Toprope To Redpoint
Rock & Ice editor Andrew Bisharat has been hard at work on a book about sport climbing called Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success.
Phil Schaal Does 5th Ascent Of Jade (V15)
One of America's hardest boulders gets a 5th ascent. Updated.
Amazing Story Of Survival On Half Dome
Check out this incredibly well written account of a near fatal accident on the popular, and increasingly infamous, Half Dome Cables.
Rock N’ Roll Climber
Rock climbing hits the Nintendo Wii...
New Video Area
There are so many interesting and high quality climbing videos being shared online these days that I've had a hard time keeping up sharing them on this site. Often times it is jus...
Pete Takeda Remembers Jonny Copp
Writing on the Cleanest Line blog, Pete Takeda remembers his friend Jonny Copp .
Issue 6 OF Deadpoint Magazine Now Available
Issue 6 of Deadpoint Magazine is now online and it looks like they have been listening to your feedback.
Wall Street Journal John Bachar Article
Michael Ybarra writes excellent “extreme sports” articles for the Wall Street Journal, and his article about John Bachar is no exception .
Tips For Climbing 5.12
Via Will Gadd is this excellent post that has several good tips on how to break through the 5.12 barrier (or any difficulty barrier in climbing for that matter).
Big Up’s Progression: Sneak Peak From Kevin Jorgeson
Kevin Jorgeson shares a sneak peak of the upcoming Big Up Productions film Progression as well as his fall climbing plans
Full 2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships Highlights
Full highlight clips are now available for both the Men’s and Women’s final from this year’s Mammut Bouldering Championships (in DPM HD!). Let the debate continue...
2009 Squamish Mountain Festival Starts Tomorrow
I wish I was in Squamish this weekend...
Craig Luebben Killed In Cascades Icefall
Climber, guide, author and Climbing Magazine Senior Contributing Editor Craig Luebben died yesterday while climbing on Mount Torment in Washington's Cascades. UPDATED.
Tuolumne Trip 2009
I originally came up with the idea of going to Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite National Park for a week of climbing long trad routes earlier this year during one of my frequent injury...
Tyrus Bachar Trust Auction
Friends and family of the recently deceased John Bachar have put together an auction of great items to benefit John’s son Tyrus. Click here to see the items up for bid . Auctions e...
New Online Squamish Climbing Magazine Launched
Local climbers in British Columbia have launched a new online climbing magazine
Vote In The 2009 Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition
Vote now in the 2009 Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition
Ondra Flashes 2 Rocklands V13s In One Day
I’m still decompressing and trying to catch up after being on the road for the past 10 days, but here is a bit of news to tide you over. UPDATED TWICE
What's It Like To Climb The Nose In A Day?
There have been a lot of videos made about climbing the Nose on El Cap in a day, most notably Tommy Caldwell in Dosage IV and the insane speed record of Hans Florine and Yuji Hiray...
Cool Tim Kemple Interview
Photographer Tim Kemple recently did a nice interview with Ascartel.com ( Via FStopgear on Twitter )
Updates From South Africa
I mentioned last week how it has been a somewhat slow summer for climbing news. Part of this can be attributed to the lack of action taking place here in the States, but another r...
Video Of 2 Recent Chris Schulte Boulder Canyon FAs
An area like Boulder Canyon outside Boulder, CO is the type of climbing area you would think holds zero first ascent potential given its proximity to so many climbers, but that was...
2009 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market Day 2 Recap
Rockclimbergirl shares a brief recap of Day 2 of the 2009 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market.
New Multimillion Dollar Loan Program From The Access Fund
The Access Fund recently announced a new multimillion dollar revolving loan program called the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign. Click here to read more about it.
2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships Wrap-Up
The 2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships are in the books and what an interesting event it was. UPDATED with problem 4 footage
RC.Com 2009 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market Day 1 Recap
A thorough recap of day 1 of the 2009 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market from RockClimbing.com
Johnson, Woods Win 2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships
Results of the 2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market in Salt Lake City, UT.
Treatment Of Climbing Injuries Increases 63% Since 1990
A recent study found that the treatment of climbing injuries in hospital emergency rooms has increased 63% since 1990.
2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships At ORSM Qualifier Results
Results of the qualifiers for the 2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market and Live Blog news.
Footage Of Sharma’s Jumbo Love FA To Premiere Tomorrow In SLC
Footage of Chris Sharma on the FA of Jumbo Love and Kevin Jorgeson on Ambrosia to premiere this week
Full Stop
Yesterday I came to a realization that the past 3 years have all followed the same pattern as far as my climbing is concerned. Each of the 3 years began with a roughly 6 month brea...
2009 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell Registration - CLOSED
Registration for this year’s 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell opened August 4th, and is already close. Click here for the comp flyer.
Chamonix World Cup Video
Via 8a is this video that gives a better idea what the sport climbing World Cups look like.
New Black Diamond Website
Black Diamond has a redesigned website that includes a neat journal section featuring stories and reports from BD athletes.
2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships To Stream Live Online
News about the Mammut Bouldering Championships at the Summer 2009 Outdoor Retailer tradeshow
News & Notes – 07/13/2009
A few News & Notes for your Monday...
The Cost Of Doing Business?
Are airline baggage fees putting a cramp in your climbing travel plans?
Kevin Jorgeson Updates From South Africa
Kevin Jorgeson updates us on 3 new highballs he established in the bouldering mecca of South Africa
2009 Climbing World Championships Results
Results from the 2009 Climbing World Championships held in Qinghai, China
John Bachar Dead At Age 52
Legendary climber John Bachar died yesterday in an apparent free soloing accident at the Dike Wall near his home in Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mysterious New Five Ten Shoe Identified
Earlier this year there was a lot of interest shown in a pair of mysterious blue Five Ten shoes that looked very similar to the recently discontinued, but highly popular, V10s. Ke...
Pro Climber Injury Update
Updates on the injuries of a few well known climbers courtesy of Urban Climber
Sharma Flashes 300 Ft. 5.14b At Roc Trip Millau
Chris Sharma makes his presence felt at the 2009 Petzl Roc Trip Millau. UPDATED
Big Ups To Footage Of Chris Sharma Working Pachamama (5.15a)
Big Up has the latest footage of Chris Sharma working a 5.15 in Spain
Harness Humor
Pimpin’ & Crimpin’ helps you interpret what your partner’s harness says about them
2 Out Of 3 Ain’t Bad For Honnold & Leary
Alex Honnold & Sean Leary "settle" for two routes on El Cap in a day...
The Players DVD Review
BS Productions has released another DVD, The Players . This productions offer a glimpse into what makes some of today's strongers climbers tick. Climbers you will see include: Chri...
News & Notes – 06/24/2009
News from Joe Kinder, Brad Weaver, Chuck Odette, Adam Ondra, Andy Raether and more
Impressive New V13 From Nalle Hukkataival At Mt. Evans
Nalle Hukkataival is making his trip to the U.S. this summer count
Another Update On The Five Ten Projects
Since it's unlikely I will ever be healthy for a long enough period of time to put my Five Ten Projects through their paces, this updated review at Sicky Gnar Gnar is going to be y...
Boulder’s Newest Climbing Gym Set To Open Soon
Boulder, CO's newest climbing gym Movement Climbing & Fitness is set to open next month
Prana Interviews Fred Nicole
Prana has a brief interview on their blog with bouldering legend Fred Nicole
Issue 5 Of Deadpoint Magazine Now Available
Issue 5 of Deadpoint Magazine is now online
4th Ascent Of Jade (V15) By Nalle Hukkataival
Jade (V15) sees a 4th ascent. UPDATED
Divisionals Weekend 2009: It’s All About Giving Back To The Kids
I learned a couple of things while coaching/belaying/juding at this weekend's USAC SCS Youth Divisionals held at my home gym of Adventure Rock.
Future Colorado Bouldering Destinations?
Jamie Emerson has a pretty interesting post about some areas in Colorado that may hold untapped potential for new bouldering. It sounds like working out on a Stairmaster might be a...
Big Worm (V14) Repeated Twice
Chris Schulte and Paul Robinson have done quick 2nd and 3rd ascents of Dave Graham’s recently opened V14 at Mt. Evans called Big Worm with Robinson suggesting it might be hard V13....
Video Tributes to Micah Dash, Jonny Copp & Wade Johnson
Two moving videos about climbers Micah Dash, Jonny Copp & Wade Johnson who were recently lost in China.
Alex Honnold News: Fast Free Ascents & Free Solos In Yosemite
Alex Honnold is up to his old tricks in Yosemite Valley
Adam Ondra Repeats Corona (5.15a)
Adam Ondra has done the first repeat of the hardest route in Frankenjura, Germany, Markus Bock’s Corona (5.15a). Pictures from Vojtech Vrzba .
Micah Dash, Jonny Copp & Wade Johnson Lost In China
It’s not often the untimely death that sometimes finds those that use the mountains as their playground hits home in the rock climbing community, but unfortunately that is exactly...
2009 Teva Mountain Games: Bouldering World Cup Final Results
Americans take 3 spots on the podium at the Bouldering World Cup at the 2009 Teva Mountain Games.
2009 Teva Mountain Games: Bouldering World Cup Semi-Final Results
Results from the Semi-Final round of the Bouldering World Cup at the 2009 Teva Mountain Games.
2009 Teva Mountain Games: Bouldering World Cup Men’s Qualifier Results
The Men's qualifier is in the books at the Bouldering World Cup at the 2009 Teva Mountain Games.
2009 Teva Mountain Games: Bouldering World Cup Women’s Qualifier Results
4 American Women move on to the Semi-Final round at the 2009 Teva Mountain Games Bouldering World Cup including defending champ Alex Johnson.
CO Based Mountaineers Missing In China
The news of the possible disappearance in China of Boulder, CO based climbers Micah Dash and Jonny Copp along with filmmaker Wade Johnson has been blazing around the internet today...
2009 Bouldering World Cup At Teva Mountain Games Begins Today
The International bouldering circuit returns to American soil today with the kick-off of the Bouldering World Cup at the Teva Mountain Games in Vail, CO.
Upcoming Access Events In Colorado
For those reading from Colorado here are a couple of upcoming access related events you may be interested in.
Dave Graham Is Back
Dave Graham has apparently recovered from his latest finger injury and is “syked to be climbing again”. The other day he did the FA of Big Worm at Mt. Evans, CO for which he has su...
Access Troubles In Yangshuo
The limestone sport climbing crags near Yangshuo, China, specifically White Mountain, have been receiving an increased level of attention the past couple of years. The climbing the...
Chris Sharma Got A Haircut…And FA’ed Another 5.15
Another 5.15 First Ascent in Spain for Chris Sharma
2009 Gravity Brawl Results
Results from the 2009 Gravity Brawl bouldering competition in New Jersey. UPDATED
New Bouldering Gym Coming To Denver
The indoor climbing scene continues to grow in Colorado’s Frontrange with the upcoming opening of the Denver Bouldering Club . Check out their website for more.
2009 Gravity Brawl This Weekend
The summer competition kicks off tomorrow with the 2009 Gravity Brawl at the New Jersery Rock Gym in Fairfield, NJ.
‘Made In China’ Featuring Chris Sharma Now Playing At MVM
Video of Chris Sharma trying possible 5.15 projects in China is now up at MVM.
An Interview With Shawn Diamond
An interview with boulderer Shawn Diamond about his recent V14 FA at the Buttermilks.
News & Notes – 05/20/2009
News & Notes from Matt Wilder, Southern Illinois, Black Diamond and more...
New Videos From Utah Added To DPM HDTV
Deadpoint Magazine has added video of Alex Puccio, Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson and Jon Cardwell bouldering in Moe’s Valley as well as footage of Joe Kinder on his new 5.14d The Re-...
Climbing Video: Chris Sharma Interviewed At Trento Film Festival
It’s almost the end of May and I’ve yet to meet my monthly contractual obligation to post about Chris Sharma. Since he has been slacking on the 5.15 crushing front now seems like...
Draper’s Bluff CLOSED
Via Team Saucisson comes word that Draper’s Bluff in Southern Illinois is CLOSED to climbing until further notice.
El Cap Report Returns
Anyone who spends time on SuperTopo’s forum has probably read the daily updates of the climbing on Yosemite’s El Capitan provided by Tom Evans. Back for another season, his report...
2009 Reel Rock Filmmaking Contest Now Open
The Reel Rock Film Tour is back with another filmmaking competition.
2009 Canadian Bouldering Championships To Stream Live On The Internet
This weekend the 2009 Canadian Bouldering Championships will be taking place in Montreal...and it will be broadcast live on the internet. Be sure to take the poll regarding the li...
Big Up’s Progression Update: Tommy Caldwell On El Cap
Big Up Productions has another update on what they are working on for their upcoming film Progression. Their latest blog entry details a futuristic free route Tommy Caldwell is w...
Pictures Of The Bolting On Everest
Bolts on Everest?? THE HORROR!!!
Climbing TV Show Coming To National Geographic Channel?
Sender Films and Big Up Productions have teamed up to create a climbing TV show
New V14 In The Buttermilks From Shawn Diamond
Shawn Diamond linked up the problems Direction (V13) and Magnetic North (V8/9) on the Grandma Peabody boulder at the Buttermilks to create Direct North . Diamond has proposed a gra...
News & Notes – 05/07/2009
News & Notes returns...
Interesting Closure At The New River Gorge
In areas like Colorado's Frontrange seasonal crag closures to accommodate nesting birds are an accepted fact of life, but a recent closure in West Virginia has the locals buzzing.
Devil's Lake Bouldering: Alpine Club and Beautiful Soup
After 6 weeks of sitting inside watching the spring season pass by while waiting for my knee to feel better, I was abnormally psyched to meet up with Nic (of Five Ten fame), Steve...
Will Stanhope Does 2nd All Gear Ascent Of East Face Of Monkey Face
Via Jamie Chong's blog comes word that Canadian Will Stanhope has done the 2nd all gear ascent of the iconic East Face (5.13d) of the Monkey Face at Smith Rocks, OR.
Two New V13s In Colorado From Chris Schulte
Back in Colorado after a successful trip to Europe that saw him climb his first V14s, Chris Schulte has once again turned his attention to climbing new problems
Joe Kinder Opens New 5.14d In Utah
Well, that didn’t take long. Yesterday I mentioned that Joe Kinder was working on a link up in Southern Utah that could be one of the harder routes in America. Sure enough, later i...
Rocky Mountain Highball Reviews Are In
The highly anticipated Rocky Mountain Highball premiered at the Boulder Theatre on Monday night, and a few reviews are now in. Here is one from Boulder Diaries and another from All...
Spring Break ‘09 Pt. 3: Zahnd
After getting rained out in Kentucky, tearing my LCL and climbing on many fun problems in Rocktown we finished up our trip with a brief stop at Zahnd on our way out of town.
More On The Five Ten Projects
Since I haven’t had much time to climb in mine (soon though? ) here is a more thorough analysis of the Five Ten Projects.
New V13 In Rhode Island By Ty Landman
Ty Landman opens a new V13 at Lincoln Woods, RI. UPDATED with Video.
Chris Sharma Has A Blog??
It appears as though the one and only Chris Sharma is joining the ranks of pro bloggers. He is going to be sharing updates with the Momentum Video Magazine . Check out his first...
Litz’s Chinese Arithmetic Repeated
Apparently Daniel Woods did the first repeat of James Litz’s Chinese Arithmetic (V13??) at the Lilly Boulders of Tennessee this weekend in a mere 3 tries . More to come…
Black Lung
With the Spring season at Joe's Valley in full effect lately, Joe's best known hard problem has been receiving a fair amount of attention lately with Jamie Emerson working it and M...
Robbed In China
This past weekend, Mike Call from MVM and Duncan from the Boulder Oz blog were both robbed in China ! Gone are laptops, cash, and Mike’s HD Video camera. His recent footage of Sh...
Someone Please Do This For Every Boulder Problem Ever
In my role as the Climbing Narc I do my best to bring you interesting topics on all aspects of climbing. I like to think that I don't miss many of the more interesting things out...
Alpinist #26 Coming Soon
According to UKClimbing the recently revived Alpinist Magazine shipped comeback issue # 26 earlier this week. It should be very interesting to see what shows up in our mailboxes.
Issue 4 Of Deadpoint Magazine Now Available
Deadpoint Magazine now has their 4th issue available for your online reading pleasure.
Hueco Tanks NY Times Article
Big props to Andy Mann for getting several of his photos published in the New York Times in an article about Hueco Tanks.
Spring Break ‘09 Pt. 2: Rocktown Pt. 2
More pictures from my recent trip to Rocktown, GA.
Buttermilks Cleanup This Saturday
On Saturday, April 18, please join the Friends of the Inyo and the Eastern Sierra Climbers Coalition for a day of fulfilling volunteer work and an evening of entertainment.
Hard Onsights & New Projects For Chris Sharma In China
Chris Sharma is up to his usual tricks in Yangshuo, China
Spring Break ‘09 Pt. 2: Rocktown Pt. 1
If you ask most people to identify one classic problem in Rocktown, GA, The Orb would probably be it. One of the first problems you come across on the approach to the boulders, Th...
ODub Interviewed By UKClimbing
Climber/Climbing Rapper ODub was recently interviewed for the site UKClimbing.com .
ClimbTalk Radio John Bachar Interview
Legendary free soloist John Bachar discusses how he began free soloing as well as one of his more memorable accidents in an interview with ClimbTalk Radio.
Five Ten Project First Impressions
My first impressions of the new Five Ten Projects after trying them out in Rocktown
Spring Break ‘09 Pt. 1: Kentucky
With the weather not cooperating during my trip to Kentucky, we had no other option but to seek out alternative activities to occupy our time.
Free Patagonia Wallpapers
Patagonia.com has a cool gallery of wallpapers to spruce up your desktop.
Urban Climber James Litz Article
An interesting article about James Litz in a recent Urban Climber Magazine is now online.
New V14 In Moe’s Valley, UT
Still in Moe’s Valley , Daniel Woods has added a 5 move lower start to Isaac Caldiero’s Meatbag (V13) to yield The Beach , a proposed soft V14. Check out the updated list of V14 bo...
Wade David Vimeo Channel
Wade David has a cool climbing channel on Vimeo where you can see ascents of several noteworthy boulders from across Colorado’s Frontrange.
John Sherman Blog On DPM
John Sherman has joined the ranks of bloggers at the Deadpoint Magazine website.
Temporary Closure At Hueco Tanks
The Grenade Boulder, home to the classic Nobody Gets Out Of Here Alive (V2) at Hueco Tanks’ North Mountain, has come under a temporary closure due to nesting wrens. Read the full...
Desert Southwest Spring Break Update
Last week was a pretty big week for the areas in the desert southwest as some of the best climbers in the world descended on the areas stretching from St. George, UT to Las Vegas,...
New Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition Website
The Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition recently launched their new website . Check it out for access news and free topos to areas like Poudre Canyon.
Rewind DVD Contest Winner
Pardon the delay, but I have finally selected a winner from the recent Rewind DVD Contest.
From Dirt Grows The Flowers (V15) Repeated
Another of Dave Graham's longstanding unrepeated testpieces sees a 2nd ascent this week.
Tips For Climbing Dates
The irreverent climbing blog Pimpin’ And Crimpin’ has some hilarious tips for your next climbing date .
Climbing Photography Tips
UKClimbing has a cool article by Alex Messenger with several tips to help you capture better climbing photos.
New Rocky Mountain Highball Website
Rocky Mountain Highball is a climbing movie that has been in the works for several years now. In case you couldn’t guess, the movie is going to prominently feature highball boulde...
Agent Orange (V13) Repeated
Phil Schaal has made a probable 2nd ascent of Paul Robinson’s Agent Orange (V13) at the Gunks. Here is some video and a few thoughts on the FA..
Paul Robinson Does 2nd Ascent Of Psychedelic (5.14c/d)
Paul Robinson repeats Psychedelic in St. George, UT.
All Good Spring Breaks Must Come To An End
Spring break starts, spring break ends...
Book Of Bitter Aspects Repeated Again
Max Zolotukhin has done the 3rd ascent of Dave Graham’s The Book Of Bitter Aspects at Bradley, CT, registering it at V13 on his 8a spraycard.
Skin Maintenance
Leslie Timms has some helpful tips posted on her blog for keeping your skin healthy. What does everyone else do?
Contest: Win A Copy Of Rewind
Win a copy of Rewind from BS Productions
New Highball V12 In Eldorado Canyon
Kevin Jorgeson has been in Colorado this week in search of overlooked highball boulder problems that need FAs. With the help of Andy Mann he found just such a boulder in Eldorado...
Big Up's Progression Update From Spain: Sharma, Ondra & Ojeda
Big Up Productions is hard at work in Spain filming their next movie Progression. As usual, Chris Sharma is one of their main subjects, but we will be treated to more of a Europea...
News & Notes – 3/13/2009
News & Notes about Fred Nicole, Lynn Hill, Mike Doyle's unexpected send, V13s for Nalle Hukkataival and more.
Matt Segal Sends New Trad Line "Smart Went Crazy" In Eldo
Matt Segal, who is probably most well known these days for his first free ascent of a route in Eldorado Canyon, CO's Kloof Alcove called Iron Monkey (5.14), recently returned to th...
Another Climbing Area Being Purchased By The SCC
The Southeastern Climbers Coalition continues to lead the way when it comes to securing permanent access to previously closed climbing areas. Late last year they secured access to...
Chuck Fryberger Ethiopia Trip Reports
Not really climbing related, but still very interesting are the reports from Chuck Fryberger’s trip to Ethiopia. ( Part 1 , Part 2 )
Donation Update
An update on the donations from ClimbingNarc.com to access causes and thoughts on an access related thread on 8a.nu
Andre Di Felice Repeats The Saadhu (V14)
Andre Di Felice has made the 4th ascent of Timy Fairfield’s V12 into V11 link up called The Saadhu (V14) at The Temple, NM. The other repeats came from Jon Cardwell and Daniel Wood...
Odub Interviews Alex Johnson
Odub has a funny interview up with reigning ABS Nationals champ Alex Johnson.
Another V13 FA In Hueco For Nalle Hukkataival
In addition to his FA of The Machinist (V13), Nalle Hukkataival managed another V13 FA before leaving Hueco Tanks. He climbed an obvious sit start to Dirty Martini On The Rocks ( V...
Mike Doyle On The Unexpected Send
Mike Doyle recently surprised himself by redpointing The Route Of All Evil (5.14a) at the VRG. Check out his blog for an excellent post on this phenomena of the “unexpected send”.
Rewind DVD Review & Sale
BS Productions has released their 5th climbing movie, Rewind. The movie includes highlights from previous BS Productions movies The Life, The Australia Project, Karma and Spray as...
Lynn Hill Interview At TheLowDown
TheLowDown has a nice interview with Lynn Hill posted that focuses on her recent repeat of Chablanke (V11/12) at Hueco Tanks, TX.
Paul Robinson Wins 2009 Hueco Rock Rodeo
Paul Robinson made his return of sorts to outdoor bouldering this past weekend at the Hueco Rock Rodeo. Apparently spending the past 5+ months rehabbing from his broken ankle hasn'...
Where In The World Is Chris Sharma?
When I was a kid, one of the games we played on the classic Apple IIe computers was Where In The World Is Carmen Sandiego. The basic gist of the game was that adults were tricking...
Chuck Fryberger’s Thoughts On Fred Nicole
Chuck Fryberger has an excellent collection of his thoughts and impressions gleaned from working with bouldering legend Fred Nicole. Very cool stuff.
Ty Landman Crushing Font
I think it’s safe to say that Ty Landman has been having an above average trip to Fontainebleau. On the heels of his ascents of Kheops Assis (V14) and Gecko Assis (V14), Landman re...
Terre De Sienne (V14) Repeated Twice
Jon Cardwell and Matt Wilder have made the 5th and 6th ascents respectively of Fred Nicole’s Terre De Sienne (V14) at Hueco Tanks, TX.
Stone Alliance Film Tour Trailer
You seemingly can't release a climbing movie these days without an accompanying film tour, and the Stone Alliance Film Tour seeks to take it to the next level by featuring 3 movies...
News & Notes - 2/27/2009
Climbing news & notes from Chris Schulte, Jacinda Hunter, Ty Landman and more...
Caution: Side Effects May Include…
As anyone that reads this blog knows, injury related downtime is nothing new for me. In fact, injury related boredom is the main reason this blog was created 2 years ago. Given my...
Patagonia Tin Shed Update
Patagonia has updated their interactive Tin Shed website with a batch of new stories and videos. Check their blog for the list of updates.
Jacinda Hunter Climbs 5.14b In Utah
Jacinda Hunter has made an impressive FFA of Dave Graham’s Breaking The Law (5.14b) at Black and Tan, UT. Check out the video at MVM .
New Kevin Jorgeson Blog
Current Climbing Magazine coverboy Kevin Jorgeson has started himself a proper blog. Check it out at http://kjorgeson.blogspot.com/ .
Ty Landman Repeats Kheops Assis
On the still not-functioning-in-the-U.S. MoonBlog comes apparent word that Ty Landman has repeated Kheops Assis (V14) in Fontainbleau. ( Via TheLowDown )
The Book Of Bitter Aspects (V13) Repeated By Phil Schaal
Dave Graham’s boulder problem The Book Of Bitter Aspects (V14) has stood unrepeated for several years now. Strong climbers like Paul Robinson have come close to repeating the prob...
Hueco Tanks Update: Hukkataival, Cardwell, Wilder and More
Bouldering news from Hueco Tanks, TX including a new V13 from Nalle Hukkataival and Jon Cardwell as well as a slew of V13 repeats. Other news makers include Matt Wilder, Andre Di...
James Webb Sending Hard In Arkansas
James Webb repeated two Dave Graham V13’s this weekend in Arkansas, suggesting a possible downgrade to V12 for both. The problems in question are Chunk Up The Deuce and Loved By Fe...
Pure Reviews Are In
Chuck Fryberger’s new bouldering flick Pure premiered last Friday night in Boulder and the reviews are in. Here is a review from AllClimbing and here is one from BoulderDiaries .
Chris Schulte Climbs His First V14
American Chris Schulte has climbed his first V14 during his current trip to Fontainebleau, Gecko Assis . You can read a recent interview with Schulte at Mountains and Water, and I...
Chris Sharma Does First Ascent of Demencia Senil (5.15a) In Margalef
After a fairly miserable sounding Winter, the conditions in Spain have improved as of late which can mean only one thing: another new 5.15 from Chris Sharma. As with the new routes...
2009 ABS 10 Nationals Adult Finals Wrap Up
A wrap up of this past weekend's 2009 ABS 10 Nationals Adult Finals with thoughts from several of the athletes as well as links to pictures and video.
Climbing.com Chris Webb Parsons Interview
Climbing Magazine has a good interview with Australia’s Chris Webb Parsons on their website.
ABS 10 Nationals Weekend Shoutouts
A few thank yous to go around from our weekend in Colorado.
Simba’s Pride Video From Hotaches
Hotaches Productions has posted a cool clip of Ben Cossey highball bouldering the route/boulder Simba’s Pride (E8 6b).
Interview With Josh Helke From Organic
Check out this interview with Organic Bouldering’s Josh Helke on the blog Cells for Cells .
Issue 3 Of Deadpoint Magazine Now Available
Issue 3 of Deadpoint Magazine is now available at the Deadpoint Mag site. Here are a few highlights from issue 3: Video of Joe Kinder sending Souther Comfort Right (5.14b) at Littl...
2009 ABS 10 Nationals Adult Bouldering Championships Results
Results of the 2009 ABS 10 Adult Bouldering National Championships from The Spot Gym in Boulder, CO. UPDATED 2/16/09.
News & Notes – 2/13/2009
A summary of the past few weeks worth of News & Notes including the must see video from the Australian bolt failure tragedy.
Daniel Woods Arkansas Update In His Own Words
As a follow up on my post about Daniel Woods’ recent trip to Arkansas , Woods himself has posted a trip report on La Sportiva’s website . 9 out of 10 eh?
Dave Graham Doing What Dave Graham Does: Sending V13s
It continues to be a somewhat slow winter on the uber difficult boulder front, but that doesn’t mean that nothing is happening out there. Dave Graham is back stateside which can me...
Southern Smoke Video Now On MVM
Spencer Victory’s video of Joe Kinder and Brad Weaver doing the first and second ascents of Southern Smoke (5.14c) at the Red River Gorge is now up on MVM .
Carlo Traversi’s Climbing Industry Thoughts
Carlo Traversi has some thoughts on the state of the climbing industry in his latest post. Nothing all that new, but still interesting to read the thoughts of someone trying to ma...
Adventure Rock Anniversary Week Schedule
The schedule of events for Adventure Rock's Anniversary week.
Matt Wilder Interview
Check out this lengthy interview with Matt Wilder . It’s definitely worth reading.
Chris Sharma Spain Update
Since his first ascent of Golpe De Estado back in December , Chris Sharma has been keeping things low key. He is still holding it down in Spain, but poor weather has severely hampe...
Australian Bolting Tragedy Follow-up
Simon Carter has a follow-up with additional information about the recent accident in Australia involving some questionable bolting.
Excellent Fontainebleau Primer
UKClimbing.com recently posted an excellent article on the logistics for a trip to the bouldering mecca that is Fontainebleau. The article has helpful tips on understanding the gr...
Quick On The Draw X Results & Pictures
In case you haven't seen them in the other locations I posted them, I added pictures from last weekend's Quick On The Draw X climbing competition to my pictures page . You can down...
News & Notes – 1/30/2009
Since I usually forget half the items I want to use for the News & Notes posts, I started posting them as I find them on the top of the front page of Climbingnarc.com. To avoid clu...
2009 Outdoor Retailer Winter Market Wrap-ups
Rockclimbing.com has 3 nice write-ups on the climbing side of the recent Outdoor Retailer trade show in Salt Lake City. Check them out: Day 1 , Day 2 , Day 3 .
Spraycaster Climbing Logbook App For iPhone/iPod Touch
Spraycaster is a new application that was recently released for Apple’s iPhone (or iPod Touch). It’s main purpose is to serve as another method for keeping track of the climbs you...
Steph Davis Meetup During ABS Nationals
If you are going to be in Boulder for ABS Nationals, one event that might be worth checking out is the recently announced Meetup with Steph Davis on Friday 2/13. Davis will also b...
A Wisconsin Trifecta: 3 Areas, 3 Disciplines, 3 Classic Hard Lines
The news of Josh Wharton’s recent trifecta of 3 difficult bouldering, mixed and sport climbing challenges rekindled a hair brained idea I thought up last year. For those that didn’...
Alex Honnold & Paul Robinson Interviews
A couple of good interviews to check out: one with Paul Robinson and the other with Alex Honnold .
Carlo Traversi & Emily Harrington Are 2009 SCS National Champions
Carlo Traversi and Emily Harrington won their respective divisions at this weekend’s SCS Adult National Championships . DPM has a great write-up as well.
Quick On The Draw X
On Saturday a record crowd descended on my local gym, Adventure Rock, for the 10th Annual Quick On The Draw competition. I have had the pleasure of attending the last 9 QotD's and...
Dream In Vertical Rope Review
Dream In Vertical has an excellent post recapping the pros and cons of several ropes they have used.
New Blog From Matt Wilder
Guidebook author and all around strong climber Matt Wilder has launched a new blog . Check it out for recent news on a new V11/12 in Colorado’s Frontrange.
A Cautionary Tale About Bad Bolting
A fatal sport climbing accident in Australia's Blue Mountains due to a failed bolt and a cut rope raises questions about how the route in questions was bolted.
ClimbIdaho.com: Bouldering Videos From Idaho And Beyond
ClimbIdaho.com is a great blog that I'm not sure many people have heard of. I for one never even knew there was so much climbing to be had in Idaho, so I have thoroughly enjoyed le...
Let’s Talk Style
A guest post from Rhoads about the finer points of Climbing Style
Alpinist Magazine Coming Back In March
Seemingly against all odds, it looks like Alpinsit Magazine will be making a comeback just 6 months after closing its doors in October of 2008.
Hueco Tanks Update: Chris Webb Parsons, Keita Mogaki, Phil Schaal and Matt Bosley
News from Hueco Tanks including repeats of Slashface, Diabolique, Nagual and Couer de Leon by the likes of Chris Webb Parsons, Keita Mogaki and Phil Schaal. Also, a new update on...
Modump Returns
Online climbing movie site Modump.com has returned with a new update...
Friday News & Notes – 1/16/09
Not a whole lot going on this past week on the spray front. Here are a few interesting links to help get you to the weekend: Sonnie Trotter has an excellent discussion taking place...
Old Devil’s Lake Bouldering Photos: The Keymaker (V11?)
Not all the bouldering on the West Bluff at Devil's Lake is spread out and hard to find. A short hike down the tumbled rocks trail followed by a brief foray in to the talus will b...
Old Devil’s Lake Bouldering Photos: Jenga (V6 or 7?)
When we were moving last year, I was very psyched to stumble across a series of pictures from the spring of 2003 I didn't remember taking. Among the pile were several pictures of t...
Joe’s Valley Trip Beta Needed
Mrs. Narc and I are in the process of picking out a destination for a Spring break trip in mid-April. I really wanted to go to Hueco, but several factors have pointed us in the dir...
Daniel Woods Arkansas Bouldering Update
Since we last checked in , Daniel Woods has continued his exploration of the sandstone blocs in and around Arkansas' Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Recent noteworthy ascents include a new...
Kevin Jorgeson Climbs The FA Of Buttermilks Highball Ambrosia
Kevin Jorgeson has bouldered/soloed a new line on the east wall of the incredible Grandpa Peabody boulder in the Buttermilks of Bishop, CA. Big Up was on hand to film and the Bisho...
Update On Kentucky’s Bridge To Nowhere
Just a quick post to update everyone on a situation that was brewing last year. You’ll remember that there was some talk about building a bridge through one of the Red River Gorge’...
Cult Followings Not Paying Off Like They Used To, Alpinist Magazine Sold For $71K
Details on the buyer who paid $71,000 for the assets of Alpinist Magazine are starting to emerge.
Dave MacLeod Repeats “Walk Of Life”
Back in September of 2008, James Pearson made the first ascent of a traditionally protected slab climb in England he dubbed Walk Of Life . At the time, Pearson proposed a grade of...
News & Notes: 1/6/2009
News & Notes from Shawn Diamond, Alex Johnson, Matt Segal, Matt Wilder, Tim Clifford and much more...
HP40 New Years Washout
Our trip to HP40 in Alabama wasn't a complete wash, but as far as climbing was concerned it sure felt like it. Before we left I didn't feel all that prepared, and it showed once w...
Top 10 Posts Of 2008 On ClimbingNarc.com
The 10 most popular posts of 2008 on ClimbingNarc.com
Alabama’s Crag X Update
A few weeks back I posted about a secret crag that the Southeastern Climber’s Coalition was attempting to purchase. At the time, the name of the crag was being withheld until plans...
Sendtrain Heating Up In Hueco Tanks
It’s the winter season in Hueco Tanks, TX and with strong youngsters all across the fruited plains lacking anything else to do, the sends are starting to roll in. A couple of years...
HP40 For The New Year
Tomorrow we will heading to Steele, AL to ring in the New Year at HP40. I’m nursing a tweaked finger on my right hand and Mrs. Narc is still recovering from her unfortunate ankle i...
Only The “Highest Caliber Of Wood Grained Sandstone” For Daniel Woods…
The bouldering at Arkansas’s Horseshoe Canyon Ranch was featured in Dosage III in a memorable piece culminating with Chris Sharma’s FA of Witness The Fitness. This footage is pres...
Lynn Hill Chablanke (V11/12) Video On MVM
Over the long holiday weekend, Momentum Video Magazine posted up a video by Scott Neel of Lynn Hill’s ascent of Chablanke (V11/12) in Hueco Tanks. You can check it out by clicking...
Lynn Hill Chablanke Photos
Check out Deadpoint Magazine for a few photos of Lynn Hill’s recent repeat of Chablanke (V11/12) at Hueco Tanks.
Not Much News, Mostly Just Notes – 12/19/2008
Since no other news this week looks that impressive compared with 5.15 sport climbing FAs, here are a few links.
Nameless Arete
The so-called Nameless Arete (V4) at Governor Dodge is one of those problems that can be really frustrating. Based on its grade it shouldn't be that hard (in the grand scheme of t...
Big Sale At Big Up Productions
Better late than never, Big Up Productions is running a 15% off sale on everything in their store for all you procrastinators out there. That means you can get the Dosage Box set (...
Chris Sharma Sends ‘Golpe De Estado’ (5.15b?) In Siurana
Chris Sharma ups the ante in Spain. UPDATED
Issue 2 Of Deadpoint Magazine Now Available
Issue 2 of Deadpoint Magazine is now available at the Deadpoint Mag site . Here are a few highlights of what is in Issue 2: Interviews with Alex Puccio and Ty Landman Video* of Nat...
Dosage V Review & Trailer
I wish I had some sort of excuse as to why it has taken me 5 months to share my thoughts about the latest release from Big Up Productions, Dosage V. In my defense, the glut of inf...
Dave Graham’s ‘The Island’ (V15) Repeated Twice
Dave Graham's Fontainebleau testpiece The Island (V15) is repeated twice.
Extremist’s Guide To Devil’s Lake New Climbs
Any climber that has spent time on the quartzite cliffs at Devil’s Lake State Park knows that it has a rich and colorful history. Legends like Fritz Wiessner, John Gill and Pete Cl...
Chris Sharma Interview In Men’s Journal Magazine
Chris Sharma is interviewed by Men's Journal Magazine regarding what it took to send Jumbo Love (5.15b)
What A Difference A Week Makes
Two weekends ago I was out at Governor Dodge pulling down on sandstone boulder problems in a t-shirt. Conditions really could not have been much better. At the time, I knew that th...
Access Fund Prize Pack Winner
The winner of the Access Fund Prize Pack is...
2008 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Little Rock City/Stone Fort Results
This weekend was the final installment of the 2008 Triple Crown Bouldering Series. After comps at Hound Ears in North Carolina and Horse Pens 40 in Alabama , it all came down to th...
Lynn Hill Sends Chablanke (V11/12) In Hueco Tanks, TX
Via the blog of Andy Mann comes news that 47 (soon to be 48) year old Lynn Hill has sent Chablanke (V11/12) in Hueco Tanks, TX. Very impressive!
A Couple Of New Blogs To Check Out: Jamie Chong & Sean McColl
Two new (to me) blogs for everyone to check out.
News & Notes – 12/08/2008
A few links for your perusal on this Monday...
Keepin It Island: (Another) New V15 From Dave Graham
Dave Graham has added a sit start to the V13 Boogalagga in Chironico, Switzerland that he is calling Big Paw . He has suggested a grade of V15 for this new problem. You can read th...
Spray DVD Sale For The Holidays
Just in time for the holidays, you can now pick up a copy of BS Production’s latest release Spray for just $20 . Check out our review of Spray here . If anyone knows of any other...
Contest: Win An Access Fund Membership & Prize Pack
Thanks to everyone’s continued support of the ads on Climbingnarc.com, it is already time for another donation to a climbing access cause. Given that it has been a long time since...
Sandstone Violence
Over the past month, as Fall conditions have finally arrived here in Wisconsin, I have been slowly working my way through some of the harder problems at Governor Dodge in an attemp...
Organic Bouldering Mats After Thanksgiving Sale
Organic Bouldering Mats after Thanksgiving sale can save you roughly 20%!
Alex Puccio Does FFA Of A Maze Of Death (V12)
Alex Puccio does the FFA of another V12.
America! F**k Yeah!
Team America continues to leave their mark on British Gritsone...
Paul Robinson Guest Blogs At The Five Ten On Tour Blog
Paul Robinson has posted a great guest blog on the Five Ten On Tour blog ( RSS Feed ). It is helpful to read about how he has specifically focused on not letting the whole situatio...
Joe Kinder Adds A New 5.14c To The Red River Gorge
Joe Kinder has opened a new 5.14c called Southern Smoke at Kentucky's Red River Gorge.
The Southeastern Climbers Coalition Needs Your Help!
On the heels of last week’s access alert in Kentucky comes another alert. Unlike the well-known Red River Gorge's Muir Valley, little is known about this yet-to-be-named Alabama cr...
Kevin Jorgeson Decks From And Then Sends Gaia (E8), Solos Meshuga (E9)
An interesting bit of news was just posted over at MomentumVM . Kevin Jorgeson , who has been climbing on the Gritstone of England for the past several weeks, was out climbing rece...
Adam Ondra Repeats (World’s First?) 5.15
Adam Ondra has repeated Alex Huber's 1996 testpiece Open Air at Austria's Schleier Wasserfall, suggesting a grade of 5.15a for the route.
Fifty Words For Chump
A couple of weeks back, there was a minor controversy at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky where two of the bolt hangers on Fifty Words For Pump (5.14c) were flattened by Adam Taylor...
Theater Of The Absurd
My Dad often asks me why I don’t just use a ladder to get to the top of a boulder when I tell him about our various bouldering excursions. That’s a valid question I suppose, but wh...
Alpinist Magazine’s Assets For Sale
The assets of Alpinist Magazine are for sale.
Kentucky’s Bridge To Nowhere
Proposed road improvements could negatively impact access to Kentucky's Muir Valley climbing area.
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Bouldering
Two weekends ago we took the kids from our climbing team on an 11+ hour drive to try out the bouldering at the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Jasper, Arkansas. Based on both awesome se...
Central Wisconsin Sandstone Bouldering
I have to admit that I lived the past several years in a bubble, believing that Devil’s Lake was the only place to climb in the entire state of Wisconsin. Thanks to the generous be...
A Conspiracy Theory That Has Nothing To Do With The Election
A few weeks back, Skyler Weeks opened a new dyno at Clear Creek Canyon, CO called Zion . You might be asking yourself, who is Skyler Weeks and why would I care about some dyno in C...
Putting Climbers First to Create Climbing We Can Believe In
Today is election day in the United States, an important day no doubt. I have to ask: What has either candidate vowed to do regarding the important problem that plagues many of u...
“Fifty Words...” & Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Sneak Peak
Fifty Words For… …Get A Life?? …A Job?? I'm not really sure what to make of the mini-melodrama that took place at the Red this weekend. Here is a brief synopsis for those intereste...
2008 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: HP40 Results
Results from the 2008 Triple Crown Bouldering event at Horse Pens 40, AL.
ClimbingNarc.com Readers Like Quality In Their Crashpads
A couple of weeks back, I posed a question for readers. The question being “What was the main factor in choosing your current crashpad?”. After almost 100 votes and 25+ comments,...
News & Notes – 10/29/2008
News from Kevin Jorgeson, James Webb, Daniel Woods and Justin Alarcon. Notes on DPM, RRG Accidents and more.
Deadpoint Magazine Goes Live
A few weeks back, many people in the climbing world were dismayed to see that Alpinist Magazine was shutting down operations . To many though it was not really a surprise given Alp...
The Sharp End DVD Review
A review of the latest release from Sender Films: The Sharp End
Kevin Jorgeson Takes His Bold Skills Overseas
Kevin Jorgeson is best known here in the U.S. for blurring the line between highball bouldering and outright soloing. His notable highball boulder ascents include The Duel (V10 FA)...
Rockstar Watch At The Red River Gorge: Chris Sharma Sends 2 5.14s, 5.15 On The Horizon??
When Nate called me last weekend to let me know he saw Chris Sharma down at Kentucky’s Red River Gorge, I knew it wouldn’t be long before the news of hard sends started to trickle...
Dave Graham UK Interview
Via UKClimbing.com here is an interesting series of video interviews with Dave Graham . Interspersed throughout the interviews is footage from some of his lectures. As you may reca...
Dave Graham On The Road In The U.K.
Fresh off a successful late summer sending spree in Rifle, CO Dave Graham has once again headed back to Europe. This time he is giving a series of lectures in the United Kingdom a...
Bummer x10000
The bad news seems to keep coming these days. My favorite V15 climber in the world, Paul Robinson , has unfortunately had his dream trip to Europe cut short. Apparently Paul fell w...
Help Choosing A Crashpad
Help a Climbingnarc.com reader choose a crashpad to buy.
How Do You Think Our Trip To Rocktoberfest Went?
This past weekend I made the trip to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky with Mrs. Narc, Kevlar and Sarah. We all had high hopes of climbing well and having a good time at the Rocktobe...
Climbers Take The Access Initiative In Joe’s Valley
This has been posted elsewhere already, but I thought it was important to pass along as a general reminder for visitors to all climbing areas. Often times the things we take for gr...
Dean Potter's Eiger FreeBASE On NBC’s Jeep World Of Adventure Sports This Weekend
A segment shot, directed and produced by Sender Films of Dean Potter's freeBASE of the North Face of the Eieger will be airing this weekend. It will be featured on the Saturday, Oc...
More Details On 8th Annual Red River Gorge Rocktoberfest
Pre-Registration for the festivities at this weekend’s 8th Annual Rocktoberfest in the Red River Gorge of Kentucky is closing soon. The event promises to have plenty of music, food...
2008 Triple Crown Bouldering Series: Hound Ears Results
Results from the 2008 Triple Crown Bouldering Series stop at Hound Ears, NC.
Taylors Falls
This weekend we made a brief 2 day roadtrip to Minnesota. On Friday night we attended the “Sweet 16” party at Vertical Endeavors St. Paul . They were celebrating 16 years of busine...
RMNP: Kind Boulder
During our time in RMNP last month, one of the highlights for me was revisiting the Kind Boulder near Emerald Lake. It was one of the boulders I had distinct memories of visiting o...
New Devil’s Lake Guidebook Review
A review of the updated Climbers Guide To Devil's Lake, 3rd Edition that was just released.
News & Notes - 10/1/2008
Rocktoberfest is coming soon to the Red River Gorge, Ty Landman repeats Sharma's Practice Of The Wild, James Pearson climbs E12, the Colorado Bouldering guidebook controversy and m...
A Few Annoyances Observed At The Red River Gorge This Weekend
It’s been awhile since I’ve spent any amount of time at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky and even longer since I’ve stayed at the local hangout Miguel’s. This past weekend I had the...
ClimbingVibe.com
As someone who spends a good chunk of his time perusing the internet for climbing news and information, I can attest to the fact that it is incredibly difficult to follow everythin...
Chris Sharma Onsights Two (or Three?) 5.14s In Maple Canyon
Chris Sharma's onsight spree at Maple Canyon, UT yields several impressive sends.
New Devil’s Lake Guidebook Delayed?
As far as guidebooks go, the current edition of the “Climber’s Guide to Devil’s Lake” by Sven Olaf Swartling is the epitome of the phrase “it is what it is”. It is far from spectac...
Amateur Hour At Devil’s Lake
After two frustrating weekends that involved no outdoor climbing, this past weekend we made it out to the quartzite bluffs of Devil’s Lake. The crew consisted of Mrs. Narc, Old Sch...
Niagara Glen Bouldering Access In Jeopardy
Bouldering access at the Canadian area Niagara Glen is in jeopardy. Located just across the border from Buffalo, NY, “The Glen” is a popular destination for U.S. & Canadian climber...
Girl Talk In Rifle
If you are looking for some evidence that people can get along in this crazy world of partisan presidential politics and large financial institution collapse, look no further than...
Angie Payne European Human Being Video & Interview
Momentum Video Magazine has video of Angie Payne on her recent ascent of European Human Being (V12) in RMNP along with a nice interview . They also have video of the other recent...
Chris Sharma’s ‘Jumbo Love’ (5.15b)
Looking for more on Big Up's latest movie Progression and Chris Sharma's Jumbo Love? Check out these posts ! The dust has settled on Chris Sharma sending his project at Clark Mt. ,...
Chris Sharma Sends Clark Mountain Super Project: Jumbo Love (5.15b)
Looking for more on Big Up's latest movie Progression and Chris Sharma's Jumbo Love? Check out these posts ! The Big Up Blog is reporting that Chris Sharma has climbed the fabled p...
Matt Segal Does 4th Ascent of Cobra Crack
Matt Segal has made the 4th ascent of one of the hardest traditionally protected crack climbs in the world, Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish, BC. It was first climbed by Sonnie Trot...
News & Notes - 9/11/2008
News & Notes from Alex Honnold, Way Lake Bouldering and several big upcoming events.
May I Buy You A Compass?
Guest post from Mrs. Narc: As any Narc reader knows, this summer was packed with climbing adventures for the Narc and me. Being that he possesses the vast majority of our combined...
Yosemite Trad: Learning Lessons On ‘After Six’
I am a firm believer in learning something new every time I climb a route. Whether it is a new body position to do a move, a different way to rest, a better method for placing gear...
Johnson, Puccio & Payne Crushing V12 In Colorado
The summer bouldering season of 2007 was one for the record books in Rocky Mountain National Park. It seemed like every week a new double digit problem was being established or rep...
Yosemite Trad: Dog Crack
Eddie attempting the overhanging 5. 12 finger crack Dog Crack near the Wawona Tunnel in Yosemite Valley: Here is the full gallery:
Yosemite Bouldering: Largo Lunge
Largo Lunge is one of the more fun easy problems in Yosemite’s Camp 4. As with just about all problems (of any grade) in Yosemite though, this V0 is no gimme. Here is Mrs. Narc get...
MVM Going Free This Week
Last week it was confirmed officially on the MVM site that the paid premium section would be going away by the first week of September ( as I had reported back in July ). I for on...
I Can’t Believe I Am Alive To Write This Trip Report
You will never believe what happened to us during our recent drive to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky...
Patagonia’s Tin Shed
Via The Mountain World , we have a brand new time waster from our friends at Patagonia. They have launched a very cool site called Tin Shed that is supposed to mimic hanging out in...
A Few News & Notes Items
As usual when we go out of town I fell way behind on my obsessing over what other people are doing in the climbing world. It took me a few days to get through everything in my read...
RMNP Bouldering: Mikala
Going into the bouldering leg of our trip in RMNP, I had pretty low expectations. The cast from my latest surgery had only been off for 2 months, I got bouted in Yosemite recently...
RMNP Bouldering: Paul Robinson Working Top Notch Project
Last week I had the opportunity to tag along with Paul Robinson as he worked on an (at the time) unclimbed line in Upper Chaos Canyon, RMNP, CO.
V12 For Alex Johnson
Alex Johnson has had a very productive month of August since she moved to Colorado. Yesterday she made the first female ascent of Clear Blue Skies (V12) at Mt. Evans. I think I men...
RMNP Trip Update
Our trip out west is going very well so far. We are in RMNP right now and it has been cool to see everything that is going on out here. Apparently the ever-humble Tommy Caldwell re...
Yosemite Museum Climbing Exhibit
While in Yosemite we had the good fortune of visiting during the Climbing Exhibit that was on display at the Yosemite Museum. The free exhibit is an incredible journey back in tim...
Upcoming Falcon Guide To Colorado Bouldering
It is with great interest that I have been following the controversy surrounding the upcoming Bob Horan guidebook to the bouldering in Colorado's frontrange that is to be released...
New Andy Mann Photo Blogsite
Andy Mann is back from South Africa and he is revamping how he shares his work with us, this time with a new blog. The old dropkneeclimbing blog is now obsolete, and it has been r...
Governor Dodge Bouldering Update
Last year I made a few trips to Governor Dodge State Park to check out some of the bouldering that I had heard was there. I found a few good problems and a lot of suspect rock. My...
2008 Mammut Boulding Championships Results: Sharma & Puccio Come Out On Top
Another ridiculously close finish between Alex Puccio and Alex Johnson. Full Results here. No P-Rob in finals?? Qualifier #3 must have been wicked.
Dean Potter Free Solos The Eiger North Face [Confirmed]
Dean Potter has free-soloed the North Face of the Eiger. UPDATED: 8/08/08
Yosemite Bouldering: Park Life
While in Yosemite I checked out one of the more famous testpieces, 'Park Life' (V12)
Yosemite Bouldering: Housekeeping
If this is a post about the Housekeeping boulders, then why is the preview image of the LeConte memorial you ask? Because it gives me an excuse to bring up Dean Potter’s ridiculou...
News & Notes - 8/4/2008
News & Notes from bouldering strongmen, a Mt. Evans bouldering guidebook in the works, the Fortress Of Solitude and more...
Yosemite Bouldering: Candyland
If you are looking to pad your spraysheet with a slew of easy ticks, Yosemite might not be for you. If you are looking to try hard and climb classic lines regardless of the grade...
Maxim Rope Recall
New England ropes is recalling two types of their Maxim climbing ropes. Check AllClimbing for more details and then check your ropes to make sure yours aren’t part of the recall.
Living The High Life At Devil’s Lake
Old School and I made our respective returns from surgery to the sharp end at Devil’s Lake yesterday. I decided to leave my camera behind so my words will have to suffice...for th...
Torrent Falls Re-Opened To Public Climbers
Been itching to send one of those classic 5.11 or 5.12s at the Red River Gorge’s Torrent Falls Crag ? Bummed that is has been closed to the public for the better part of 1+ year? W...
Midnight Lightning
Let's start out the stories from our trip to Yosemite with someone (sadly not me) sending the most famous boulder problem on the planet, Midnight Lightning (V8). Located smack dab...
Momentum Video Magazine Switching To A Free Format
The high quality climbing site Momentum Video Magazine is dropping it's paid subscription service and offering all of its content for free beginning in September 2008.
Newsflash: Paul Robinson and Ty Landman Are REALLY Strong…
Paul Robinson and Ty Landman have taken their talents on the road to South Africa and Switzerland respectively. Read on for tales of V15 sending in two hours and repeats of histor...
DVD Winner & Back From Yosemite
Before we left for our Left Coast trip I failed to mention the winner of our Free DVD competition . The winner was Isaac and he unfortunately chose The Australia Project . I say un...
Happy Boulders: Hulk [Ego Crush]
To conclude this series of posts, let me recount one of my more unpleasant experiences during my trip to Bishop. One of the more well known moderate lines at the Happy Boulders is...
Buttermilks: Soulslinger
Soulslinger. One of the Buttermilks's most iconic problems. At V9 it is tops on the ticklist of many who aspire to climb hard problems, but cannot pull down on double digit testp...
Buttermilks: Cave Problem
During my 2006 trip to Bishop, I spent a lot of rest time running around and fondling holds of testpieces like The Mandala. Who hasn't? However, I couldn't spend the hole trip mi...
Governor Dodge: The Good Times Are Killing Me
No One Gets Outta Here Alive (V2) is probably one of the best boulder problems at Governor Dodge State Park in Southwest Wisconsin. Check out these two sequences of photos featuri...
Rachel & Eddie El Cap Pictures
Short on words, long on pictures, here is a visual summary of Rachel & Eddie’s trip up the Big Stone. They got to spend their first night on El Cap Tower with Ivo Ninov and Eric Pe...
Excellent Post On Colorado Bouldering
If you haven’t already seen it, Jamie Emerson has an excellent recap of what he calls “ The Golden Age Of Colorado Bouldering ”. It is a must read if you are at all interested in...
Five Hard-ish Boulder Problems You Should Do Before Death (or Full Time Tradding)
I have had a lot of downtime to compile lists of routes and boulder problems I would like to do once I get healthy again. The following is a list of 5 classic problems that are har...
An Organic Anniversary
What better gift is there for a wedding anniversary than Organic Bouldering Mats???
Finger Injuries Of Doom
Being that I am no stranger to finger injuries, both benign and catastrophic, I was extremely dismayed to recently learn that two of our young protégés have cracked bones in their...
Pad Stashing Redux
It’s summer in the Frontrange of Colorado and that can only mean one thing, boulderers escaping to the cooler temperatures of one of Colorado’s alpine bouldering areas. Cooler tem...
Get A Copy Of ‘The Life’ On DVD For $5 Plus Shipping
Like your climbing movies cheap? You can now get your own copy of the recently reviewed The Life on DVD for $5 plus shipping. Click here to order . Don’t have $5, comment here b...
Somebody Do Me This Favor
Please bring the Rocklands area of South Africa into the 21st century and give them some high speed internet access??? How else will we follow the sendtrain that is Paul Robinson...
Rachel & Eddie El Cap Nose Report
Not to turn this site into a Rachel and Eddie love-fest, but if you wanted to see some of their progress on The Nose of El Capitan be sure to check out the daily El Cap reports at...
More From Yosemite
This week’s Yosemite update includes David (broken heel and all) and Rachel climbing on Separate Reality, Eddie climbing on Tales of Power (5.12b), a trip to the Mariposa Grove and...
The Life DVD Review
I was at the gym Rockquest in Cincinnati recently for a youth climbing competition. During one of the frequent spells of downtime I was perusing their DVD rack when I noticed that...
Jay Knower Slideshow At Devil’s Lake
On Saturday, July 5th Wisconsin climber Jay Knower will be giving a slideshow at Wheeler’s campground near Devil’s Lake State Park. Among other things, Jay is known for being one...
Win A Free Climbing DVD
You could win a free climbing DVD just by commenting on this post?!? Yep, it's that easy. Enter by 7/2/08...
Stuck On Yosemite
A few friends of ours, David, Rachel and Eddie, have been out in Yosemite for the past few weeks. After a few tantalizing emails about their exploits they were kind enough to shar...
Reel Rock Film Tour Coming To An Area Near You
The 3rd annual Reel Rock Film Tour is coming to an area near you. If you live in places like California or Colorado this is nothing new to you. However, for the first time the tour...
Tony Lamiche Repeats Amandala (V15)
Andy Mann is in South Africa living the dream, and he reports in his first blog for Climbing.com that Tony Lamiche has repeated Fred Nicole's Rocklands, South Africa V15 Amandala.&...
Urban Climber Website Gets Redesigned…Sort Of
I was perusing my messages on The Facebook yesterday when I saw a notification from my “friend” Urban Climber Magazine that their website had been redesigned. I’m into websites an...
Update On The Climbingnarc.com Forum
I added a forum earlier this year that had been temporarily lost in the shuffle of updating the design of this site. Now that things are settling down I fixed things up so that the...
Nalle Hukkataival Mt. Evans Video At MVM
If you never checked out the premium section of the Momentum Video Magazine , now might be a good time to do so. They have video of Nalle Hukkataival climbing the following problem...
Climbing With A Baby: Some Reflections
As a recently married couple, Mrs. Narc and I are asked about when we will have kids more than just about anything. In this guest post, Peter Beal examines some of the issues one...
Nalle Hukkataival, Others Crush At Mt. Evans
In Colorado for the recent Bouldering World Cup event, Finland's Nalle Hukkataival made short work of several Mt. Evans testpieces. UPDATED 6/17/08
Guide To Choss
The aptly named Splitter Choss Blog has a helpful guide to the different kinds of choss one might come across when searching for new rock. I think the rock at Governor Dodge...
Muir Valley
Muir Valley, for those that don't know, is a sport climbing area in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. However, calling it a sub-area of the RRG is somewhat misleading as it is actually...
Ally Dorey Interview
Check out this interesting and humorous interview with Frontrange climber Ally Dory on a new blog I came across today called Pimpin' and Crimpin' .
Perfecto World Premier Tonight
Perfecto, a new Mike Call movie featuring Deep Water Soloing and Sport Climbing on the Spanish island of Mallorca premiers tonight in Golden, CO. More details are available a...
A Bit Of Housekeeping
It's been a few weeks since I made some changes to the site here and I wanted to take a moment to inform you of some of the changes.
Alex Johnson Wins 2008 Bouldering World Cup In Vail
The Midwest's own Alex Johnson took the top spot at the World Cup Bouldering event in Vail, CO this past weekend. Paul Robinson was the top Male U.S. finisher in 3rd place. Full Re...
2008 U.S. Bouldering World Cup Qualifiers Results
The 1st round of the Bouldering World Cup at the Teva Mountain Games concluded yesterday. Paul Robinson is in 1st place for the men and Alex Johnson qualified 1st for the Women. Fu...
8a.nu To World [Again]: Just Because We Have A Popular Climbing Site Doesn't Mean We Know What We Are Talking About
Climbers with alleged "eating disorders" should have their scorecards "recommended" against?
Ancient History: Narc Rock Climbing
Sorry for the lower quality photos... the technology back when I used to climb isn't what it is today... Click pictures to expand... Thanks to Dan for hooking up these long lost pi...
One Step Closer
So it's been almost 3 weeks since my most recent surgery. Back in February, I had surgery on my left thumb and this time it was my right thumb taking the knife, or scope as it wer...
Escalade Magazine Steph Davis Interview
Escalade Magazine recently caught up with Steph Davis after her Free Solo and Base Jump from Castleton Tower in Moab, UT. Here is a translation of the French interview into Englis...
Possible Dosage Box Set?
To follow-up on yesterday's news of what is going to be in the upcoming Dosage 5 DVD from Big Up Productions , I have also heard rumblings of a possible DVD box set of all 5 Dosage...
Exclusive Details On Contents Of Dosage 5
There have been hints dropped here and there as to what will be on the upcoming Dosage 5 DVD, but never a definitive list. Until now that is. Check out this list of what Doses wi...
Sonnie Trotter 'Gives Back'
Peep this story from Scotland where Sonnie Trotter (in town working E11 trad route Rhapsody ) helped rescue a 'Non-Educated Delinquent' Scottish youth when said youth climbed...
Gibraltar Rock
Unfortunately, I can't claim much knowledge about the bolted sandstone climbing at Gibraltar Rock near Devil's Lake, WI. In fact, it took me several years before I even realized h...
From Zero To 5.14 In 5 Months
Less than 5 full months since fracturing his heel while attempting Mandala SDS (V14) in Bishop, and about 1 month since taking his first steps outside of his cast, Ethan Pringle se...
How Much Would You Give?
Memorial Day weekend. An opportunity seized by almost all climbers to take advantage of an extended break from our day to day lives to go climbing. Unfortunately for me, my recent...
Countdown To 2008 Bouldering World Cup In Vail
Two weeks from today, internationally sanctioned competition climbing will make its return to U.S. soil at the Teva Mountain Games. It seems like just yesterday we were at ABS Nat...
Plan D Part 4: The Tombstone Left
To wrap up this series of ego boosts for T-Boz here is a sequence of photos of him climbing the left side of the Tombstone (not sure if it has a name or not). Regrettably he botch...
Adam Ondra Repeats Action Directe (5.14d)
15 year old Adam Ondra has repeated Wolfgang Gullich's Action Directe (5.14d) in Germany's Frankenjura. Read more at Czechclimbing and climbing.com .
Plan D Part 3: The Tombstone Right
After Sarah & Kevlar gave the Tombstone their best efforts, Tony came down from his perch...
2nd Edition Of ClimbTalk Radio
Yesterday was the 2nd edition of Climb Talk Radio, a climbing themed talk show originating out of Boulder, CO. You can download the show to listen for yourself by clicking here . A...
Plan D Part 2: The Tombstone
After finishing up at the Flatiron, we made our way over to the Tombstone boulder. Home to 3 tall problems ranging from V1 to V5, the Tombstone is one of the best boulders in...
Plan D Part 1: Gill's Flatiron
Late in the month of March, I headed up to Devil's Lake with the goal of exploring some lesser traveled boulders with the not-so-R-Tard crew (Kevin, Sarah & Tony). Unfortunately,...
Dosage 5 To Premier June 4th In Boulder
FRB is reporting on their message board that the much anticipated 5th installment in the Big Up Productions Dosage series will be premiering on June 4th at the Boulder Theater in d...
Beta Whoring
I was discussing my FRB interview with someone at the gym a while back. This person mentioned that he took exception to the part in the interview about how my climbing partners vie...
Mt. Evans Photos
Sock Hands made a trip to the alpine bouldering area Mt. Evans this past weekend and clutched up with some nice photos of various sends. Check out the posts by clicking a link belo...
News & Notes - 05/13/2008
I have another interesting topic for discussion tomorrow, but in the meantime here are a few links for your perusal: If you enjoy salivating over the posts at the Betabase blog , y...
News & Notes - 5/8/2008
Not much Earth shattering news going down lately but here are a few things to check out from the past few weeks: Joe Kinder prepared nicely for his 2 month trip to Spain with his r...
Whipper Night...Unsafely?
With last night being whipper night at team (sorry Tony) the below video that I found at the newly redesigned Splitter Choss Blog seems especially pertinent. The video demonstrates...
How Much Landscaping Of Boulders Is Ok?
These days I don't get to spend as much time on MVM as I would like, however when I received an email from a reader alerting me to a possible ethical lapse in one of their latest v...
ClimbTalk Radio Show
Last week Monday, a climbing talk radio show premiered on KGNU in Boulder, CO. Wait. What? Talk radio? Climbing??? Yes, you read that right. The hour long show featured FRB's Mike...
Parfrey's Glen State Natural Area
As usual, a weekend forecast for snow, wind and generally miserable weather leading up to the class I was teaching last weekend with Chris at Devil's Lake had us gripping all week....
Ancient History: Horse Pens 40 Pt. 2
Horse Pens 40, AL - October, 2003 Hammerhead V5 The Drip VFun My Tips = Owned
2008 Tournament Of All Things Climbing Winner
After nearly 6,500 votes, a champion has been crowned in the 2008 Climbingnarc.com Tournament Of All Things Climbing! The final round between pre-tournament favorites Chris S...
Monday Bouldering Extravaganza Comp Photos
Monday night was (I think) the 4th edition of Adventure Rock's Monday Bouldering Extravaganza Comp (MBEC to the initiated). Besides the fresh new boulder problems, the best part of...
Final Round Of 2008 Tournament Of All Things Climbing
As I expected, round 5 was not exactly close and the two favorites, Chris Sharma and Yosemite, have made it to the final round. Final round voting will end Wednesday night . On Thu...
Gravity Brawl 2008 Wrap-up
Photo: Tim Kemple At the end of March, the 2008 Mammut Bouldering Championships Pro Tour got underway with Gravity Brawl '08 at the New Jersey Rock Gym. Overall the event sounded l...
Final Four Voting
The 2008 Tournament Of All Things Climbing is down to the Final Four! It looks like Sharma and Yosemite are on a collision course for the finals as many of you predicted. Voting fo...
Lifestyle, Training, Performance: A Review Of The 2007 8a.nu Yearbook
After quickly devouring my 2006 8a.nu Yearbook and promptly letting it sit under my car seat until Mrs. Narc made me throw it away last month, I was on the fence as to whether or n...
Regional Finals Voting Begins
After almost 6,000 votes, we are down to the Regional Finals of the 2008 Climbingnarc.com Tournament Of All Things Climbing . Dave Graham came the closest to pulling off an upset i...
Kevin Jorgeson & Paul Robinson Send The Fly In Rumney
Joe Kinder is reporting on his blog that Kevin Jorgeson has made the 2nd ropeless ascent of Dave Graham's The Fly (5.14d, V13/14?) in Rumney, NH. The first ropeless ascent was by J...
News & Notes: Spring Break Followup
A bit of followup on last week's Spring Break edition of News & Notes . Here are a few more links for you to check out: Many of you are no doubt following Jamie Emerson's updates f...
Dave Graham's New V15 In Fontainebleau: 'The Island'
Pictures from Dave Graham's new V15 in Fontainebleau called The Island.
New Climbing Gym Coming To Boulder
Despite already having 3 gyms within the city of Boulder, CO there is news that a 4th gym called Monument Climbing & Fitness Center will be coming soon.
Tournament Round 3 Voting
After another successful round of voting in the 2008 Climbingnarc.com Tournament Of All Things Climbing we are on to Round 3 and the final 16. No major surprises in Round 2 except...
Alex Honnold Free Solo of Moonlight Buttress Details
For such an intriguing ascent, the news of Alex Honnold's April Fool's solo of the 1200 ft. 5.12+ Moonlight Buttress in Zion is coming out at a snail's pace. Almost a week after I...
New Dave Graham V15 in Fontainebleau?
American climbing superstar Dave Graham has opened a possible V15 (8c) in the forest of Fontainebleau, France.
Mrs. Narc Opens The Spring Season at Devils Lake
Despite the fact that I have no prospects for climbing anytime soon, I have been abnormally eager for the snows to melt and the Spring season at Devil's Lake to begin. A couple of...
Round 2 Voting Begins
Thanks to everyone for the over 3000 votes that were cast in Round 1 . The closest matchup was Alex Honnold eking out a win over Dean Potter by 1 vote! Here are the links to get st...
Voting Reminder
Just a quick reminder that today is the last day to get your votes in for Round 1. With roughly 3000 total votes cast there are several very close matchups that will come down to t...
News & Notes: Spring Break Edition
A few general bits of climbing news along with several links to check out what people were up to over Spring Break: Early last month, Dean Potter completed a 40 foot roof project h...
Keep Up The Support Update
Thanks to everyone that has used Climbingnarc.com to place their order with any one of our retail affiliates. Just that easily you have helped to raise money for climbing acc...
It's Official...
It is no secret to anyone that knows us that we (I) have been itching to move out of Wisconsin. After months of careful consideration, Mrs. Narc and I have finally decided to make...
Let The Voting Begin...
Last week I launched the 2008 Climbingnarc.com Tournament of all Things Climbing and the response was awesome. We had around 50 brackets returned for a chance to win either MVM Vol...
FrontRangeBouldering.com Interview
I was recently interviewed by the great Colorado based website FrontRangeBouldering.com . So if you can't get enough of what I have to say here, you can head over to FRB and check...
The 2008 Climbingnarc.com Tournament Of All Things Climbing
Ruined NCAA Tournament bracket have you feeling down?? Perhaps your ego is bruised after another crushing defeat for Duke in the early rounds. Inspired by the NCAA Tournament brack...
Ancient History: Narc Climbing On Spring Break
I am a bit busy working on a semi-secret climbingnarc.com project which I hope to unveil in its entirety on Monday. In the interim, these pictures from Rockclimbergirl.com that I c...
More On Dave MacLeod's 5.14b Free Solo
Last week, Dave MacLeod made news when he reported that he had free soloed Darwin Dixit (5.14b) at Margalef, Spain. As Gabor pointed out in the comments at the time, Kairn.com was...
News & Notes – 3/19/2008
Climbing news: Rastaman Vibration Sit pictures, Midnight Express repeated, Steve House in Argentina, Steve Dieckhoff's passing, Yosemite Bouldering, Ty Landman FAs and Pete Whittak...
Truth In Advertising?
Two recent La Sportiva Solutions ads have featured some fuzzy math when it comes to the grades attributed to the routes in the ads. One being a Timy Fairfield as showing him climb...
Adam Ondra Climbs 3 5.14s in One Day
15 year old Adam Ondra continues to amaze. In the course of one day he sent Sanjski Par Extension (5.14d), Človek e jezi se (5.14c) and Popolni mrk (5.14b) all at Slovenia's Misja...
Climb Like A Girl
This is another guest post from Zonk. If you would like to write a guest post on any climbing related subject or share some pictures from a recent roadtrip, please contact me . I w...
Dave MacLeod Free Solos 5.14b in Spain
Dave MacLeod, best known for his difficult headpoints in Britain, recently free soloed Darwin Dixit (5.14b) in Margalef, Spain . Unless someone can think of something harder, this...
Don't Fall Mode
If there is one dream I have, it is to simultaneously hold down a respectable job and travel the world climbing. Mike Doyle is living my dream. He has spent the last couple of year...
News & Notes - 3/10/2008
Just an update on Beth Rodden's new 5.14 trad route Meltdown . Big Up Productions was there filming her work on the route for the upcoming Dosage 5. Big Up shares their first hand...
Gem Lake
With one day to ourselves before our coaching duties commenced for the recent ABS Nationals comp in Boulder, we somehow had to pick only a couple of activities out of the myriad th...
Micah Dash Slideshow
La Sportiva and Mountain Hardwear athlete Micah Dash paid Adventure Rock a visit this past Friday night. He shared with the gathered crowd stories and pictures from his travels aro...
Beth Rodden Climbs 5.14 Crack In Yosemite
I know this has been reported elsewhere, but for those that haven't seen it yet Beth Rodden (pictured at right on her FA of The Optimists 5.14b at Smith Rocks, OR) has done the fir...
Ancient History: Horse Pens 40 Pt. 1
click pictures to expand Horse Pens 40, AL - October, 2003 Paper & Plastic V5 The Lowdown
Spray DVD Winner
The winner of the Spray DVD giveaway is none other than Kevlar . Thanks to everyone else who registered or posted in the forums . Thanks again to Brian Solano for donating this...
Sonnie Trotter On Bouldering In Hampi, India
"Pilgrimage", the Big Up movie featuring Chris Sharma and Katie Brown bouldering in Hampi, India, inspires anyone who watches it to dream of one day climbing in India. Unfortunatel...
Devil's Lake Trad Ticklist
With Spring rapidly approaching and me having a cast on for the foreseeable future, I figured what better time than now to go over a ticklist of 50 or so routes that I wanted to le...
Cast of ???
First there was Sock Hands' Boot of Doom ... Then came Mrs. Narc's Boot of Unicorns and Rainbows ... Now there is my Cast of ??? Please offer some suggestions on a menacing name th...
Brian Solano Spray Interview Translation
Brian Solano, producer of Spray, recently did an interview with the French language climbing magazine Escalade. Thanks to Tony for proving that the public education system isn't co...
Spray DVD Giveaway Reminder
Remember that you have until Wednesday March 5th to enter to win a free copy of the new Spray DVD. You can enter for free by both registering AND posting on a topic in the Forums ....
News & Notes: Friday Links
Here are a few links for your Friday reading pleasures: A good post on the various ways to manage your rope(s) on multi-pitch routes Canada's Tour de Bloc bouldering event in Frede...
Big Up to Arkansas - Updated
As I reported last week, Dave Graham has returned to Arkansas after tearing the place up over the New Year. Big Up is there to capture everything on film for us (Dosage 5 soon???)...
Dab & Die Followup
If one thing is clear from our recent discussion on Dabbing , it is that using your knee on a topout does not count for a dab. Poor style? No doubt. Cheating? I guess not. The numb...
Just A Little Patience Is All You Need
Yes, I had surgery on Friday to correct one of several ailments that have been bothering me recently. Typing is a bit difficult so details will have to wait until later. Basically,...
One Year of Narc-ing in the Books
One year ago the Climbing Narcissist blog was born out of a combination of boredom, frustration and extreme obsession with climbing. Since then the site has grown and evolved...
News & Notes - 2/21/08
Matt Birch recently repeated The Mandala Sit Start (V14) at the Buttermilks outside of Bishop, CA. By my count this is the problem's 7th ascent. Wade David has photos posted from b...
Spray DVD Giveaway
Win a free copy of the latest climbing video from Brian Solano: Spray. Folow Chris Lindner, Joe Kinder and Luke Parady as they explore the climbing along the coast of Northern Ca...
Keep Up The Support
Thanks to whomever used Climbingnarc.com to place their order with Moosejaw . Just that easily you have helped to raise $5 for climbing access and you probably bought some cool stu...
2008 ABS 9 Nationals Results
Results of the 2008 ABS 9 Adult & Youth National Championships held on Februrary 15-17, 2008 in Boulder, CO
Blank Man - 5.13b
01/27/2008 - Peter Bonamici climbing Blank Man (5.13b) at Red Wing, MN Nice work Peter...
Problogs: Angie Payne & Daniel Woods
Climbing.com has added two more pro climbers to their growing list of bloggers: Daniel Woods and Angie Payne. Angie's first blog is about her trip to the South with Jamie Emerson....
ABS Nationals: Boulder Bound
Barring any weather related delays we will be on a plane heading to Denver/Boulder later this evening. Friday will be a day of exploration with the weekend dedicated to coaching an...
Poker Night at Adventure Rock
Last night was day 2 of Adventure Rock's 7 day 10 Year Anniversary celebration . Despite the continued snowfall, plenty of people turned out in their cheesy dealer hats to make Pok...
Dab & Die?
I originally ran this post very early last year when very few people were visiting this site. I wanted to revisit this topic to give people a chance to weigh in and take the new po...
Mallorca
EMS is shooting their new catalog in Mallorca and they have Chris Sharma and Joe Kinder (among others) on the scene. Joe has started posting updates on the first couple of days on...
Paying to Climb Outdoors Follow-up
Last month I ran a poll asking people how they felt about paying to access climbing areas. After receiving 72 votes and several comments, it is clear that the majority of peo...
Climbingnarc.com Forums
With the 1 year milestone approaching, I have been thinking of ways to improve this site and get you more involved. To that end I have created the Climbingnarc.com Forums . Right n...
Adventure Rock 10 Year Anniversary
Next week, my home gym Adventure Rock is celebrating its 10 year anniversary with a 7 day extravaganza. Click the below flier for a schedule of events. The event of most interest t...
First Tracks
From the sounds of it people from all over the Climbingnarc.com reading area are getting crushed with snow this winter and here in southeast Wisconsin it is no different. We have a...
MVM Contest Winner
Congratulations to JPWill who is the winner of a one month subscription to the Momentum Video Magazine . You will be contacted shortly. A big thanks to the roughly 40 people who en...
Metolius Master Cams
Like any good addiction, putting together a trad rack is one that always leaves you looking for that next piece of gear to buy. Ever since I started building my rack I've been thin...
News & Notes - 2/6/08
James Pearson, who is better known on this site for having flashed 3 V13 boulder problems , recently returned to the Gritstone of the UK to establish a new E10 route on the Cratcli...
Hard, Unrepeated American Boulders
I thought it would be interesting to compile a list of hard (V14 and up) boulder problems that have not been repeated in North America. Thanks to everyone for help in compiling the...
MVM Subscription Contest Reminder
Just a reminder that you have until next week Tuesday to leave a comment on the MVM Subscription Contest Post to be in the drawing for a free 1 month subscription to MVM. Big thank...
Quick on the Draw Results & Photos
Results and Photos from the 2008 Quick on the Draw competition at Adventure Rock Climbing Gym
Momentum Video Magazine Subscription Contest
To commemorate the upcoming 1 year anniversary of the Climbing Narcissist blog, I am holding a small and simple contest. The prize is going to be a 1 Month subscription to the Prem...
Quick on the Draw 9
This past weekend was the 9th Annual Quick on the Draw comp at Adventure Rock . The event saw a record number of participants and was incredibly fun to be a part of. Please check b...
Paying to Climb Outdoors
As climbers we often spend a lot of time disagreeing about seemingly unimportant things. Is that route 5.12a or just hard 5.11d? Is using your knee on a topout a dab that nullifies...
Midnight Express
Dave Graham recently did the 3rd ascent of Ty Landman's Midnight Express (V14) in Boulder Canyon. Ty indicated that he named the problem after a movie that he rather enjoyed so I t...
News & Notes - Mass Update
Thanks to James for compiling this massive list of updates. In this update you will find a lot of news on Dai Koyamada's exploints in the Frankenjura. Also news from Daniel Woods,...
ABS Regionals
We are back from Cincinnati and the ABS Midwest Regionals competition. Overall the comp was a very good experience, and we had 4 kids qualify for Nationals at the Spot which was ve...
News & Notes - Bouldering Edition
A summary of recent bouldering activity including more repeats of Trice in Boulder, Bishop bouldering, hard first ascents in Idaho and scary highball first ascents in Hueco Tanks....
Various Ailments Update
With the way things were progressing in the Fall, what with me doing more outdoor climbing than I had ever done, you would think that I would be well on my way to recovery for a gr...
Updated Design
If you are reading this via the RSS Feed and don't visit the actual site on a regular basis, climbingnarc.com recently underwent a makeover. There are a few new features incl...
ABS Midwest Regionals
We are heading down to Climb Time Blue Ash in Cincinnati this weekend for the ABS Regionals competition . This will be the first time most of our kids will be climbing in a c...
More Gunks Pictures
Last October, I had the good fortune of climbing at the Gunks for a few days. If you missed my original write-up on the trip you can find it here . Finally, I got around to going t...
Paul Robinson Terremer Video
The video of Paul Robinson repeating Terremer (V15) is now available on the Momentum Video Magazine . As I expected, the catch is that you have to be a premium subscriber to see th...
Sir Edmund Hillary Dead at Age 88
Sir Edmund Hillary, probably the first person (along with Tenzing Norgay ) to summit Mt. Everest in 1953 died Friday in New Zealand. Famous for both his strength and his humility,...
Climber Falls 100 Feet in Yosemite and Lives
It's not every day that you can get a person's thoughts on what it is like to rappel off the end of their ropes and fall 100 ft. to the ground. The accident in question took place...
Sean McColl Repeats Goldfish Trombone (V14)
Super strong Canadian Sean McColl has repeated one of the hardest problems in Bishop, Goldfish Trombone (V14). He has also done 11 other problems graded V10 or harder in the...
Momentum Video Magazine Follow-Up
More information on subscribing to the Premium Area of the Momentum Video Magazine including a list of videos featured in the Premium Area.
RRGCC Donation
Thanks to everyone who has visited this site and supported my sponsors. Thanks to you I was recently able to make a donation in the amount of $100 to the Red River Gorge Climbers'...
Anatomy of a V13 Flash
Consider with me for a moment what it takes (beyond being freakishly strong) to flash a V13 boulder problem. Patience is no doubt important as one must wait weeks or even years bef...
Paul Robinson Repeats Terremer (V15)
MVM is reporting that Paul Robinson repeated Fred Nicole's hitherto unrepeated Hueco Tanks testpiece Terremer (V15) on New Year's Day. This problem connects Diaphanous Sea (V12) wi...
Random Winter Pictures
I added some random winter themed pictures to the Pictures page . They were taken either out behind our apartment complex or at Lapham Peak State Park . I think they are some of th...
Lapham Peak Snowshoeing Pictures
I was pretty lucky to get a set of snowshoes for Christmas and then have it snow 6 inches 3 days later. Last night I headed out to Lapham Peak State Park to test them out. Wh...
Paul Robinson Flashes Nagual V13
On 12/27 Paul Robinson flashed Nagual (V13) at Hueco Tanks, TX. You may recall seeing Chris Sharma fall off the last move on his flash attempt of Nagual in Dosage 4 when he "...
Famous Climber Ape Indexes
From what I can gather, Theo Merrin has a rather well known home climbing facility. Being that he is located in Boulder, many a strong climber has made their way through his house...
Sending Begins in Hueco
In what is surely a sign of things to come, the season at Hueco Tanks, TX has gotten into full swing with the arrival of Paul Robinson. Since his arrival about a week ago, Paul has...
Horspens 40 Pictures - Black & White Edition
Click on pictures to expand, click anywhere off the picture to close...
Updated Ethan Pringle Blog
Ethan Pringle has updated his Climbing.com blog with some more information on his recent exploits. He has given the Sharma project at Clark Mt. a working name of Jumbo Pumpin...
Momentum Video Magazine Premium Section
For a long time, Mike Call has been coming up with innovative ways to bring climbing content to the Internet. The first example that I was an avid consumer of was his SmackMag proj...
More Hard Sport Routes in Spain
Thanks to James for compiling this news In more sport climbing news: Patxi Usobiaga: repeated La Rambla (9a+) on Nov 27, 2007 at Siurana, Spain. The route had its first ascent by R...
Red Wing Barn Bluff: A Midwestern Anomaly
“Coming to Carleton was a strictly academic decision,” I explain to the student interviewing me for the Carletonian, the student Newspaper at Carleton College, a small liberal arts...
Triple Crown 2007: Stone Fort/LRC
Thanks to Ryan Olson for the following results from the 2007 Triple Crown finale at the Stone Fort: Women 1) Lisa Rands 2) Kate McGinnis 3) Sasha DiGiullian 4) Jill Church 5) Danie...
Sharma & Usobiaga Repeat Andrada 5.15a
The somewhat elusive (from an online spray observer's standpoint) Chris Sharma has surfaced in Spain with his recent repeat of Dani Andrada's 5.15a La Novena Enmienda at Santa Liny...
3rd V13 Flash for James Pearson
21 year old James Pearson added to his unprecedented list of V13 flashes this past month when he flashed Schules des Lebens in Chironico, Switzerland. In Switzerland to work on Dav...
May I Check Your Tire Pressure?
Note from the Narc - Please enjoy this guest essay by the newest unofficial member of the Gimp Mode Squad: Mrs. Narc Some five weeks ago, the Climbing Narc and I took our climbing...
Boot of Doom Revisited
Word to the wise: get a second opinion...
Hillbilly Hollow
Note from Climbing Narc - Thanks to Sarah for this guest post on Hillbilly Hollow Three hours after leaving Milwaukee, Tony, Kevlar and I pull into a rest stop just off the highway...
Little Rock City Video - Red House (V7)
In preparation for the upcoming Triple Crown Bouldering event at Little Rock City/Stone Fort outside of Chattanooga, TN, here is a video of me on Red House from the Spring of 2005....
A Few From Governor Dodge
Cold, yet fun day...
Bishop Bouldering: 365 Days Ago
November 22, 2006 Buttermilks, Bishop, CA High Plains Drifter
Updates...
...or lack thereof. Updates will be few and far between for the foreseeable future due to incipient hand pain brought on by excessive pounding on a keyboard. Hopefully...
Trice Repeated Twice
Last week I somewhat jokingly was speculating on who would be first to repeat Jim Holloway's Trice at Flagstaff Mountain after 30 years. Yesterday the answer ended up being Carlo...
Eiffel Tower Free Solo
On Monday, November 12, England's Mike Robertson was arrested while soloing the outside of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, France. He made it roughly 720 feet up the 1,063 foot tall mon...
Bouldering World Cup Coming to U.S.
Via B3Bouldering , we have news that a World Cup event will be held on U.S. soil for the first time in almost 20 years. It was announced yesterday that there will be a Bouldering W...
My Climbing Shoe Collection
Lately I have been accused by many of owning too many pairs of climbing shoes. One might even think that I am sponsored by Five Ten based on my endless promotion of their shoes, bu...
2007 Mammut Bouldering Championship Results
Mens 3rd place finisher Ryan Olson Photo and results: Boulderingcomps.com Pro Men 1) Paul Robinson 2) Rob D'Anastasio 3) Ryan Olson 4) Carlo Traversi 5) Future Roden Pro Women 1) A...
A Few From Devil's Lake
Here are a few pictures from a fantastic day at Devil's Lake yesterday. Danny and I had a great day of climbing with the entire East Bluff to ourselves for the entire day. Lo...
Mometum Video Magazine Redesigned
I think I just blew my mind. Or rather, Mike Call blew my mind. I haven't had a chance to check out the entire new site, but the Momentum Video Magazine has had a make over and it...
News & Notes - 11/7/07
I realize lately that I have been spending too much time blogging about myself and not enough time talking about all the action going down elsewhere so here goes nothing: During hi...
Chuck Fryberger Gets Cold
How about something not really climbing related for this week's video. Here we have climber/filmmaker Chuck Fryberger sliding his way into the frigid waters of Lake Neva. Chu...
Chris Sharma on NPR
A little late, but Chris Sharma was on "All Things Considered" on NPR last week. For whatever reason he is climbing in Maryland and there is a short video of him pulling down (pres...
Who Will Be 1st To Be 2nd?
It has been roughly 30 years since Jim Holloway established Trice (aka Another Hollway Route) at Flagstaff Mountain. Jim Holloway on Trice Photo: Rob Candelaria via Peter Beal Now...
Picture of Nate's First Lead
Here is an approximate picture of Nate on his lead this weekend:
Devil's Lake in the Fall
Picture if you will for a moment the most glorious Fall day you have ever seen at your local climbing crag. Picture in your head the trees ablaze with full fledged Fall colors. Fee...
2007 HP40 Triple Crown Results
Unofficial HP40 Triple Crown results courtesy of Ryan Olson - 1) Paul Robinson 2) James Webb 3) Jason Kehl
HP40 Triple Crown Weekend
Good luck this weekend to everyone competing at the Triple Crown event at HP40 in Alabama. Probably not especially prime temps being that it is supposed to be 70 tomorrow but it sh...
Governor Dodge Bouldering
Right about the time that I got injured earlier this year I heard about some bouldering 2 hours away in Governor Dodge State Park. Ever since then I've been eager to get out there...
3rd Ascent of Fifty Words For Pump (5.14c)
3 weeks ago, Fifty Words for Pump was a project at the Red River Gorge that nobody had been able to do over the course of 10 years. 3 weeks later it now has 3 ascents thanks to Mik...
HP 40 Day 2
Day 2 at HP 40 dawned to more fantastic weather. Despite the Boulderween festivities promised for later in the evening the campground didn't seem that crowded and the boulders were...
HP 40 Day 1
Last weekend, Amy and I took 5 kids from our climbing team for a long weekend to Horse Pens 40 in Alabama. Having been there a few times myself I was really excited for the kids to...
King Lines Extras
If you bought a copy of the recently released climbing film King Lines , and you were wondering why the Extras were cut short, you are not alone. It turns out that there was a prob...
Back from HP40
As usual, HP40 was fantastic. Here is a picture of Tony attempting Boomslang (V6 but probably downgraded like everything else). More pictures and whatnot coming later this week.
Boulderween Weekend
Tomorrow we are heading to HP40 in Alabama for the Boulderween event that benefits the Southeastern Climbers Coalition. I've only been there previously during Indian Pow-wows and B...
Boot of Doom Imminent?
Breaking News... Mrs. Narc suffered a devastating fall off the black problem by the stairs at the ABS comp this past weekend at VE Warrenville. Her awesome effort that ended in a s...
Pringle Dominates
Fresh off a 3.5 month trip to Europe that yielded an impressive ticklist of 1 5.14d (Realization), 1 5.14c, 5 5.14b's and 8 5.14a's (3 onsight or flash), Ethan Pringle has returned...
2 5.14c's Repeated at the RRG
While 2 5.14c's being climbed in one weekend at the Red River Gorge in KY is definitely a first, this is a sign of things to come this fall at the Red. First it was Sean McColl rep...
The Gunks
Despite all of my (and Old School's) stressing, belly-aching and doomsday predictions about the weather forecast for New Paltz last week, the weather was basically a non-factor dur...
Full 2007 Hound Ears Results
The full results for the 2007 Triple Crown Bouldering event at Hound Ears have been posted . Also, check out Scotty Gross's blog for some nice pictures from the comp.
New Frontrange Pictures
Check out BoulderingMedia.com for new pictures from Independence Pass, CO and the recent Horsetooth Hang at the Horestooth Reservoir outside of Ft. Collins.
Gunks Bouldering
What better way to start recapping my trip to the Gunks than to talk about bouldering?
Wheel of Life (V16) Repeated
22 year old Chris Webb Parsons has repeated Dai Koyamada's Wheel of Life (V16) at the Hollow Mountain Cave of the Grampians, Australia. At 60 moves long, this link up of several ha...
Jaws II
Vasya Vorotnikov has made the First Ascent of Dave Graham's crimp nightmare Jaws since some holds broke. Originally graded 5.14b, Vasya has registered the new version as 5.15a and...
Another New Design
After receiving some feedback on my new design from last week, I decided to head in another direction yet again. I actually like this layout as it offers a unique way of presenting...
ABS 9 Adventure Rock Wrap Up
This past Saturday we held our first bouldering comp at Adventure Rock since the epic Booldering comp held in October of 2000. This time it was a local comp for the ABS 9 series. E...
Petzl Roc Trip Brief
I am back from the Gunks and still unwinding. Check out Petzl's Blog to catch up on what went down at this weekend's Roctrip. More on the Gunks and the Roctrip this wee...
New Design
Ever since I switched to a Wordpress blog I was never really happy with the template that I had chosen. Then I came across the redesigned Allclimbing.com and realized that this was...
Triple Crown 2007: Hound Ears
Some of the results are in from this past weekend's Triple Crown event held at Hound Ears in Boone, NC: 1.Paul Robinson 2.Nick Vosbein 3.Ryan Roden 1.Jill Church 2.Kate Mcginnis 3....
Things Can Only Get Better...
Below is the extended forecast for New Paltz, NY. This is not the kind of forecast you usually want to see when you are going on a climbing trip where your main climbing days are...
It's Here
Just in time for my trip to the Gunks this Wednesday...
ABS 9 Photos
I put together a quick page of photos from yesterday's ABS 9 comp at Adventure Rock. Check it out by clicking here .
Committed
If all this talk of easy, well protected trad climbing lately doesn't quite do it for you, maybe the trailer for the upcoming film Committed will. Featuring climbers like Dave MacL...
More Devil's Lake Pictures
I added a few pictures from this past weekend's excursions at Devil's Lake to the pictures page . I'm still learning how to work with my new Nikon D70 which is at times frust...
The Learning Curve
I spend a great deal of my time with young climbers. Most have boundless energy and seemingly unlimited potential as climbers. Despite all their physical strengths, I cannot spend...
We Hike, We Like?
With the Horsetooth Hang taking place this past weekend at the Horsetooth Reservoir it was a perfect opportunity for some of the Frontrange's elite to try and tackle the longstandi...
ABS 9
The upcoming season of ABS bouldering comps is rapidly approaching. If you are anywhere in the Midwest you should come check out the new bouldering cave at Adventure Rock during t...
Monday Morning Video
Due to some schedule adjustments at work I don't have as much time on Monday mornings to put together my spray summary for the previous week so I will have to keep this brief. We h...
Devil's Lake - 9/22-23/2007
Here are a few pictures with related storytelling from our weekend at Devil's Lake. More pictures than what is seen here can be viewed by visiting the pictures page . On Satu...
Devil's Lake Pictures
I added some pictures from the past weekend's adventures at Devil's Lake to the pictures page . Amy and I spent Saturday bouldering with Tony & Sarah at the North Shore...
Climbing.com Chris Sharma Interview
Climbing.com has a great new interview up with the "King of Kings" Chris Sharma. Filled with incredible images from his travels this past year, the interview spends a lot of time e...
The Best Boulderer in the World...
...only climbs V10 outside? Apparently this is true when it comes to Russian Dmitry Sharafutdinov who won the Bouldering World Championships last week in Aviles, Spain. This probab...
Devil's Lake: John Cow Edition
Berkeley Foreplay Charybdis Thanks Chris!
Front Range Freaks?
If you are still bored at work/school today and want to do some reading on how some Frontrange climbers hash out their differences then head over to the FRB message boards. The iss...
Thanks
It's been about 7 months since I brought my unhealthy obsession with climbing to the internet. I don't think I ever thought that I would still be injured after all this time,...
Devil's Lake - 9/16/07
What a great weekend. Amy and I pulled off a rare doubleheader on Saturday when we took in a Wisconsin Badger football game in the afternoon and then a Brewers baseball game in the...
News & Notes - 9/17/2007
Let's get back to the spray... Paul Robinson made the 2nd ascent of Harry Roberton's Both Sides of the Spectrum (V12). He also put a new V9 highball at Camp Dick which he called Th...
Purgatory
Over the Labor Day weekend I had an opportunity to check out the crag Purgatory at the Red River Gorge. I had always wanted to go there pre-injury so I could check out the hyper cl...
Mountain Climbing - Wisconsin Style
It was such a beautiful day for my day off today and seeing as climbing was out of the question, I decided to do some mountain climbing instead. Unfortunately I live in Wisco...
Updated Ethan Pringle Pro Blog
Ethan Pringle has updated his Climbing.com pro blog . He has had a pretty big summer since his last update mainly due to the fact that he recently made the 5th ascent of Real...
Roadside Attraction
Over the Labor Day weekend, I was fortunate enough to be able to climb one of the more classic trad routes at the Red River Gorge, Roadside Attraction .
Updated Dave Graham Blog
After no updates for 2 months, Dave Graham is back with an updated Climbing.com pro blog . Obviously the big news since his last entry was his repeat of Realization . In the blog,...
NOLS Alaska
Approximate location of my NOLS course with Anchorage and Denali NP pictured. Back in High School, circa 1999, I was required to read Krakauer's Into Thin Air for an English class....
Bit of News
Here is a bit of news for your Wednesday: Paul Robinson has made the 4th ascent of Ode to the Modern Man (V14) at Mt. Evans after Woods, Landman and Jorgenson. This would be Paul's...
Creature Feature
For the Labor Day weekend, Amy and I took some friends of ours down to the Red River Gorge. On Friday we headed to Phantasia and did the classic route Creature Feature (5.9). I mad...
Dave Graham Interview
Check out this very lengthy (and expletive filled) video interview with Dave Graham. In it he talks about the level of "wizardy" it was necessary for him to obtain prior to his asc...
Updates - Pringle repeats Realization
Sorry for the lack of updates recently. It is mostly owing to my worsening tendonitis in my fingers which makes all typing increasingly painful. Therefore I have been saving as man...
Freaks of the Industry
Paul Robinson added Freaks of the Industry (V13) to his impressive ticklist yesterday. That means that in the past 8 days he has done 1 V15, 3 V13s, 1 V12, 1 V11 and 1 V10. He even...
Devil's Lake Trad
Back in May, our friend Chris was nice enough to take us on a trad climbing adventure at Devil's Lake State Park. Having never done any trad climbing, it was something I had...
News & Notes - 08/27/2007
As usual, I go away from a computer for a weekend and the sendtrain begins... The big news is that Paul Robinson has made the 3rd ascent of Jade (V15 for now) in RMNP. The day afte...
Before They Were Stars
The September 2007 issue of Outside Magazine features a spread on Chris Sharma's whirlwind year that will be featured in the upcoming film King Lines. This whirlwind year that star...
Pictures Page
I started adding a few pictures to the Pictures Page . Currently there are pictures from my trip to Colorado and Wyoming back in 2001. They were taken with my sister's...
And Then There Were None?
Sean McColl has made the 2nd ascent of Daniel Woods's Aslan (V14) in RMNP. This brings the number of unrepeated problems in the Park to 0...for now. The 23 move problem is not typi...
www.BoulderingMedia.com
ColoradoClimbs.com is no more, www.BoulderingMedia.com is the new outlet for bouldering pictures and videos. Of course, my favorite part is the list of problems V12 or harder in CO...
News & Notes - 8/20/2007
A scary story that seems to be coming to a positive resolution is that of Ryan Sewell contracting the Hantavirus virus while climbing in Rifle, CO. Unfortunately both Ryan and his...
Pulldown & Hoedown - RRG '07
I am just about recovered from last weekend's trip to the Red. Also, I am slowly getting everything in order with this new site and so far I am liking it a lot better. ...
Summertime At The Red
The hike into Muir Valley My old shoes still getting it done Trail to the Whittleton Arch Whittleton Arch Natural Bridge State Park, KY
A Fresh Start
At the suggestion of a fellow climbing blogger , I have decided to move my blog from Blogger to a self-hosted WordPress blog. It will probably take a few days for everything to get...
King Lines Review
If you are as excited as I am about the upcoming climbing film "King Lines" then you should read this review from the Western Colorado Climbing blog. He was at the Outdoor Re...
Back From Kentucky
We are back from our weekend in Kentucky. Although overall it was an exhausting trip, it was one of the best I have had despite my lack of time spent on the wall. It will ta...
Giving Back to the Kids
One of the harder aspects of my being injured this past 6 months has been how to channel my obsession for climbing into something more productive than just aimlessly surfing 8a.nu...
Ty Landman’s "Hour of Chaos"
Here is an excerpt from a nice write-up Ty did for moonclimbing.com about his recent repeat of Jade (V15): I chalked my hands and arranged my hands on the start holds. I pulled on...
Prediction Review
At the end of May, I made a few predictions about some events at the pinnacle of difficulty bouldering I thought might happen this summer: Ode to the Modern Man (V15) at Mt. Evans...
News & Notes - 8/6/2007
As usual, I go out of town and a ton of things happen: Last week Ty Landman visited Squamish and did what he normally does, which is climb hard problems. He did 1 V13 and a couple...
Five Ten Shoes on Modern Marvels
The segment about Stealth Rubber on History Channel's "Modern Marvels" was short but interesting. It was cool to see the process through which they synthesized and cured the rubber...
Pad Stashing in RMNP
Back in the day when I visited RMNP to explore the alpine bouldering there was to be done there, I distinctly remember seeing some pads around the boulders that curiously didn't se...
Small Victories
Days spent climbing each month the last 11 months: 9/06 - 16 10/06 - 12 11/06 - 12 - Elbow pain begins/worsens 12/06 - 6 1/07 - 8 2/07 - 4 - Valentine's Day Massacre '07, elbow/sho...
Jim Holloway
The latest edition of Climbing magazine devoted its cover and a big article to Jim Holloway (you can read the entire article online ). From what I have read, Holloway is most famou...
Dave Graham Climbs Realization (5.15a)
Dave Graham on Realization Photo: BigUp Yesterday, Dave Graham made the 4th ascent (Sharma, Patxi Usobiaga, Sylvain Millet) of Chris Sharma's Realization (5.15a) at Ceuse, France....
More News & Notes - 7/30/2007
I really dropped the ball this morning when I failed to mention a few more tidbits to check out: An updated version of the already phenomenal guidebook to sport climbing at the Red...
News & Notes - 7/30/2007
Paul Robinson is back from his trip to California with Daniel Woods . I would have to believe he is a little bit disappointed he did not send problems like Black Mamba (V13) or Som...
Kelly McBride Sends V11
Props to Kelly McBride for sending Kind Traverse (V11) at Emerald Lake in RMNP. Nice Work! Photo (of practice sending) by sock hands Pretty strong for someone from Wisconsin.
Mt. Evans Photos
Click photo to become enlightened... Click the photo and become enlightened to the fact that there is more climbing at Mt. Evans, CO than just the understandably legendary Dali Bou...
Man vs. "Wild"
Time for something a bit off the board Bear Grylls surviving on his own As a regular viewer of the hit TV show Man vs. Wild I always had my suspicions about how much of the show wa...
More on Sharma’s Uber-Proj
There is a lot of mystery surrounding this project at the epic 3rd Tier/Monastery of Clark Mountain that Chris Sharma has been working on. It is getting a lot of play for becoming...
Michael Reardon Obituary
Some final closure on the death of Michael Reardon Technorati Tags: Michael Reardon , Climbing News
Coming Together
Things are starting to come together... finally. Numerous aches and pains are starting to subside and I'm really starting to really feel it again. I feel like I am de-aging a year...
Sharma Sends New Project in Ceuse?
Last week on the BigUp Blog, Josh Lowell hinted at a new project Chris Sharma has been working on in Ceuse, France: Chris also stuck the dyno on his project for the first time, so...
New Urban Climber Mag
On a lighter note, the new issue of Urban Climber is out (or should be soon). It features a rather cool staged photo of Paul Robinson over the water on Wrinkle in Time (V11) at Joe...
More Michael Reardon
I was organizing some magazines on my desk last night when I came across this issue of Climbing Magazine from October of 2006 Climbing #252 On the cover is Michael Reardon freesolo...
Last Photo of Michael Reardon
Michael Reardon after sucessfully downclimbing 600 ft freesolo. Photo taken shortly before being swept out to sea. Photo by Damon Corso
Tragic Irony of Michael Reardon
Michael Reardon was someone who was known for constantly pushing the envelope when it came to ropeless climbing. He logged thousands upon thousands of feet of freesolo climbi...
News & Notes - 7/16/2007
16 year old Erik Lopez recently climbed two .14d's in one day at Rodellar, Spain. He climbed Ali-Hulk and made the second ascent of Dave Graham's Los Borrachos del Mascun . Not a b...
Michael Reardon Update
Not looking good...More clear details from climbing.com : Michael Reardon, 36, the accomplished free soloist based out of Oak Park, California, went missing off the southwestern co...
Climber Michael Reardon Missing
This is sort of messed up. I was thinking yesterday about writing up a post on how I figured one day I would be reading about how this guy died, but I didn't expect it this s...
Dog Days of Summer
It's been a slower than normal week as far as things to spray about are concerned. A few tidbits here and there that I could expound upon later this week like Dave Graham's m...
Youth Nationals
I am back from the SCS Youth National Championships in Ann Arbor, MI. The event was an enjoyable experience. You can check out the results here . In no particular order here are so...
Nationals Weekend
This weekend is the culmination of a busy 2 months that has found me out of the state of Wisconsin for 7 straight weekends. This weekend's excursion takes my wife and I to Ann Arbo...
Martina Cufar Comes to America
Former World Champion sport climber Martina Cufar from Slovenia announced her retirement from competitive climbing in 2006. During her competition days she sent sport routes as har...
Vegas Calls…
Duty once again calls and I must return to the desert known as Las Vegas for a wedding. In the mean time, here are a few pictures from a trip I took out there a few years back. Rou...
Sock Hands
I spend a lot of time on here spewing about how many hard boulder problems guys like Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson have done lately, but their overall totals pale in comparison to...
I’m Waiting To Get On My Project…
Back in my younger days the this was basically my mantra. I was constantly lounging around at the crag resting up to get on whatever route project I was working on. Unfortunately,...
News & Notes - 6/25/2007
Finally back with it...somewhat... Of course the big news while I was gone was Daniel Woods fulfilling another portion of my earlier predictions when he did the first ascent of the...
Miss much eh?
I'm back from a week of gorging on fish and beer north of the border. I am on climbing spray sensory overload...back with more tomorrow...
Gone Fishing…
Update on Sharma’s Project
I recently had a post on a new project that Chris Sharma has been working on at Mt. Clark outside of Vegas. Mike Call has been out shooting footage with Josh Lowell and Peter Morti...
More Muir Valley Drama
Those of you that read this that have never been to the Red River Gorge probably don't find these Muir Valley updates that interesting but among people that climb at the Red MV see...
Chalk Debate
I haven't heard of such an area in the U.S. but apparently over in Europe chalk is banned from being used on certain types of rock at certain climbing areas. Adam Ondra , who...
Dave Graham Blog Updated
If you are bored of reading the blog of someone that never climbs (mine) you could try checking out Dave Graham's latest blog . Or, if you don't want to try to decipher his r...
Back from divisionals
I am back from coaching at the SCS Midwest Divisional climbing competition this past weekend in Cincinnati. Overall my team did well and I was really proud of how all the kids did....
Treatment Day # Who Knows
I haven’t had too much to say on here lately about my rehab efforts because frankly it’s not really that exciting. I did some physical therapy for a while, thought I was almost bet...
Best Pitch in the World?
I've never given it much thought, but Mike Doyle (and many others) contend that the route Serpentine (5.13b) at the Grampians in Australia might just have the best pitch of climbin...
Teva Mountain Games 2007
Here are the results from this year's bouldering contest... basically a repeat of last year. Wade David has the goods on the photos. 1 Daniel Woods 1 Alex Puccio 2 Paul Robinson 2...
Wild Iowa
This past weekend I went rock climbing in Iowa. Yes, Iowa. I volunteered myself to take the climbing team I coach down there. Despite the weather we managed to have a great 2 days...
Muir Valley Access News
If you ever climb at the Red River Gorge, you are going to have think twice about bringing your dog into Muir Valley : Effective January 1, 2008, dogs will no longer be permitted i...
South Dakota Bouldering
Check out the latest post on b3bouldering.com for Jamie's first installment on his trip to South Dakota. I for one haven't heard or read a whole lot on the bouldering up that way b...
News & Notes - 6/4/2007
Back from rock climbing in Iowa of all places... Joe Kinder and Jon Cardwell both repeated Andy Raether's route Kuru 5.14c at Rifle, CO. Joe commented that the route is 45% manufac...
Sharma’s New Project
Shh, don't tell anyone: I’m not really supposed to talk about it, but I will say this: When it gets done, it will be the hardest, most badass sport route in the world. There you go...
Blink Of An Eye
That seems to be a good way to describe how long it seems to take for any climbing trip to be over. It seems like 5 minutes ago that I was fighting insane traffic in Chicago wonder...
Busy busy busy
About to head down the Kentucky for the weekend. Hopefully my arm won't hurt any worse than it does now when I get back. I will be out of town something like the next 6 or 7 consec...
Giving back to the kids…
It has been somewhat of a slow news week for a bit here. As a ravenous consumer of high end climbing information there hasn't been too much that has blown my mind lately. Hopefully...
Big "E" Update
Summit fever is in full effect again on Everest this year. With 480 ascents last year and well over 200 already this year, Everest is almost turning into your local Colorado 14er.....
Frozen in Time
It has been 3 months since I have really been able to climb at all My shoulder feels better, but it still nags me My elbow feels somewhat better, but it still nags me It has been a...
News & Notes - 5/14/2007
Big news of last week was Daniel Woods making the 2nd ascent of Suspension of Disbelief (V13 or V14) at Eldorado Canyon, CO. Dave Graham called it V13 but Daniel felt it was harder...
Couple of Links
Busy week for once, especially now that I am out of canned posts from 6 year old trips. Here are a few links: M7bouldering.com - New blog on the block - I have a feeling Nic will b...
Summer 2001 Road Trip: Wild Iris Pt. 2
Wild Iris Part 2 Mike Nash climbing Atomic Stetson (.13b/c) Mike climbing on the White Buffalo boulder. An interesting 20-25 foot boulder that has 2 bolts. The anchors were chopped...
Summer 2001 Road Trip: Wild Iris Pt. 1
Wild Iris The climbing at the Wild Iris outside of Lander, WY is a lot of tendon tweaking pulling on steep limestone pockets. Much like RMNP, the setting in which you are climbing...
Summer 2001 Road Trip: Lumpy Ridge
Lumpy Ridge The word lumpy is an apt word to describe the bouldering at Lumpy Ridge. The rock was very crystallized and rough on the skin. I think I remember us climbing there a fe...
News & Notes - 5/7/2007
Andreas Bindhammer has made the 4th ascent of La Rambla Original (5.15a) at Siurana, Spain. Ethan Pringle and Issac Caldiero recently repeated Ben Moon's V13 testpiece in Little Co...
Summer 2001 Road Trip: RMNP Rest Day
The "Rest" Day On one of our rest days I pushed for a hike to the top of Long's Peak. That was met with a lukewarm reception so we instead decided to hike to the lake pictured belo...
Summer 2001 Road Trip: RMNP Bouldering
RMNP Bouldering A few more pictures from "The Park" Mike Nash attempting an unkown problem near the Kind Traverse Mike attempting the hyperclassic Deep Puddle Dynamics (V9) Sundev...
Summer 2001 Road Trip: Camp Dick
Camp Dick Peter was friends with a local named Josh Heiney who was nice enough to take us on a tour of a what I believe was a newer area at the time, Camp Dick. Though the rock was...
Summer 2001 Road Trip: Chaos Canyon
Chaos Canyon There isn't much you can say to describe the bouldering and the atmosphere at Chaos Canyon in Rocky Mountain National Park. It has to be one of the best settings to cl...
Summer 2001 Road Trip
It seems like a different lifetime, but back in the summer of 2001 I went on a one month road trip after I graduated from High School. The destinations were Colorado for some alpin...
New Blog to Check Out
If you like to sweat high end climbing as much as I do, then you will be psyched to find out that Paul Robinson has his very own blog . To say that he climbs a lot would be an unde...
Super Sherpa Expedition
Along with my passion for rock climbing news I also have a fading obsession with armchair mountaineering. With May rapidly approaching that can mean only one thing: it is Everest S...
News & Notes - 4/30/2007
This will be an all Red River Gorge news week out of respect for the fire at Red River Outdoors : There is a nice writeup about what might have happened at climbing.com . There are...
All’s Not Well In Swizzy
Mixed news out of the climbing paradises of Switzerland. The good news is that James Pearson has made his 2nd flash of a V13 boulder. I had previously reported that he flashed Gany...
Valley Bouldering
When we did some bouldering in Yosemite last summer for our Honeymoon, I had assumed that all the bouldering had to have been tapped out. People have been climbing in the Valley fo...
Red River Outdoors Fire
Tragedy has struck the well known Red River Outdoors outfit at the Red River Gorge. Apparently a fire has burned down the entire building claiming the life of their dog River. The...
Disturbing Trend of Failure
A trend became painfully apparent during my last trip to the RRG: I don’t usually get very much accomplished when I climb there. For the number of days I have climbed there (roughl...
News & Notes - 4/23/2007
After a bit of a hiatus, here is some spray: Jamie Emerson sent Circadian Rhythm (V13) at Poudre Canyon. Video is already available here . In the past few weeks Daniel Woods has se...
8a Yearbook
I started writing this post about a month ago but got sidetracked. As a degenerate for climbing information I was obviously very excited to receive my 8a yearbooks about a month ag...
Got Chalk?
So I went to an SCS comp this weekend at a gym I had never seen before. I don't really have anything bad to say about the comp itself although the fact that the results of these "q...
Spring Break
I guess it’s not really called “Spring Break” any more for me now that I work for a living, but nevertheless this past weekend/week served as our Spring Break trip for the year. I...
Climbing Areas Visited
There is this company known as Google that has a nice map feature. With it I can now plot out various locations at which I have gone rock climbing and share them with you . Badly n...
Not what I had in mind…
I don't think this is what we had in mind when we decided to leave Kentucky last night at 8:30 pm (and drove through the night because we are cheap) to avoid getting rained on: Spr...
Pressure
T omorrow we leave for 5 days of southern bouldering and sport climbing. Normally my anticipation level would be through the roof, but this is the first climbing trip I can ever re...
Perspective
Suddenly my ailments seem a lot less severe
Patagonia Axes Sponsored Climbers?
This is getting to be an old story but still is a bit interesting. Apparently Patagonia has decided to change the way they work with their sponsored athletes. And in this case "cha...
Triple Sec
The route Triple Sec (Fifty Bucks) at the RRG is now open for business. One less thing for me to complain about....Scott
Destination Wish List
In no particular order, here is a list of areas within a long weekend’s trip from where I live that I have yet to do any climbing at. I wish to someday touch rock at some of these...
Two Updated Pro Blogs
Dave Graham has a new pro blog up at Climbing.com covering: His ascent of Esclatamasters (5.14d) which he describes as such: It was crazy to feel my body work properly for climbing...
The Mandala
In an apparent effort to turn the classic Buttermilks problem The Mandala into a western version of the Dark Waters boulder in Clear Creek, CO, two new variations/lines were recent...
Not a bad day…
Ethan Pringle had a pretty good day up at Poudre Canyon yesterday. He sent Dave Graham's classic problem Circadian Rhythm (V13) . He also managed to repeat Hollow's Way (not in the...
Whiskey a Go-Go
When most people think of climbing in Wisconsin (which most people probably don't really do) they think mostly of the toprope/trad climbing at Devil's Lake and that is about it. If...
Dab and Die?
I would like to take a moment to discuss an uncomfortable subject for me. Not injuries, not impulsive behavior, not even climbing obsession. No, I am talking about the dreaded dab...
News & Notes - 3/26/2007
Here are a few news & notes from the past week: As I mentioned earlier , Paul Robinson had a pretty good day at the Buttermilks when he sent 2 v14's in one day. Dave Graham redpoin...
Paul Robinson
There's not much else to say except that Paul Robinson has been crushing it lately. In the past 2 days in Bishop he has done the following: Mandala SDS - V14 in 1 day - same day as...
Wisconsin Bouldering: Devil’s Lake
I had the day off today so I decided to go and do some exploring up at one of the only crags here in Wisconsin. This of course meant a trip to Devil's Lake State Park. I will be th...
Matt Segal
After seeing the video at momentumvm.com that features Matt Segal doing the FA of Iron Monkey (5.14) on natural gear, I have to say that I was a bit intrigued. I contrasted that wi...
Climbing Addiction
I was going to take the time and put something together on this route Whiskey A Go-Go (5.13a) today to showcase one of the most classic hard lines anywhere that also happens to res...
News & Notes - 3/19/2007
A few tidbits from the past week: Another week another FA for Dave Graham . This time it is the FA of a V13 boulder problem he has called Do or Die at Cogul, Spain. You can also re...
TGIF
Leaving town for the weekend so here are some cool people/sites you can check out in the meantime: Ryan Olson has two pretty cool sites that are worth checking out on a regular bas...
What’s with the ads?
Just so people aren't getting the wrong impression, I am fully intending to donate any ad revenue generated by the ads on this site to climbing access. For now my intent is to dona...
Torrent Falls at Red River Gorge has been sold!
Late last year, the access situation at Torrent Falls at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky got ugly . I talked with the landownder Mark about it several times and I can't say that I...
Treatment Update
Couple of interesting developments on the perpetually injured front. First off, I've had 2 more treatments on my elbow/shoulder. I had one session of straight therapy last week and...
To 8a Or Not To 8a?
I have one . So do plenty of other people. I get good natured shit from my friends for having one. I'm of course talking about the infamous 8a.nu scorecard. I truly don't think I h...
Few Extra Bishop Bouldering Pictures
Here are a few leftover pictures that Tim Kettering was nice enough to forward to me.
News & Notes - 3/12/2007
Ethan Pringle has repeated Fred Nicole's Eperanza (V14) at Hueco Tanks, TX. Fred made the first ascent back in 2001 Stewart Watson has repeated Ben Moon's Voyager (V13). You can se...
Will Gadd Interview
The Southeastern Climbers Coalition has an interview up on their site with all around climber and paragliding fanatic Will Gadd. His blog is also a pretty cool read. Right now he h...
RSS Feed
I seemed to have biffed my RSS feed last night but it should be fixed now. An RSS feed is a good way to keep up to date on my posts without having to load your browser. Sharpreader...
Another 5.14d for Dave Graham
Dave Graham has made what is likely the 2nd ascent of Ramon Julian Puigblanque 's Esclatamasters at Perles, Spain. It took him only 8 tries over the course of about 5 months. He ha...
Allez?
I don' really have much to say today. Besides my arm starting to feel better, it is supposed to hit 40 degrees tomorrow and 50 by next week. Making me anxious to get back to Devil'...
Treatment & Grotesque Injury Report
Nothing really that earth shattering to report after today's treatment. I still have intermittent random pains from my elbow up to my shoulder but the actual elbow joint itself see...
Petzl Roctrip Coming to the Red River Gorge!
I'd say this qualifies as a big freaking deal. The Petzl Roctrip is coming to the Red River Gorge . The event will be during the annual Rocktoberfest celebration that was already p...
Envy & Joe’s Valley Bouldering
First off, despite the fact that I tend to read way too much about climbers and know more about their sends than they probably do, I do not really know any of the climbers that I r...
Bishop Bouldering Pictures: Sad Boulders
Here is the last of the decent pictures I have from my trip to Bishop. These are from the Sad boulders. These shots have more of a professional flavor because they were taken by a...
News & Notes - 3/5/2007
As I noted in my review of the "climbing" movie Specimen, the movie is not that great. Turns out Rock & Ice was even less generous in their latest issue. They give the movie 1.5 St...
Bishop Bouldering Pictures: Happy Boulders Pt. 2
Here is the second set of pictures from the Happy Boulders: Weapons of Mass Distraction Serengeti Atari almost ate it hard...
Narcissism at its best…
I really fucked up my arm. At least that was my medical opinion. Jacked, messed up, tweaked all wrapped in one. My elbow has hurt before from excessive campusing and general overus...
Bishop Bouldering Pictures: Happy Boulders Pt. 1
Here is the first set of pictures from the Happy Boulders: Hulk I suck... Heavenly Path (best V1 ever) Big Chicken
Bishop Bouldering Pictures: Buttermilks
I'll be posting a few pictures a day over the next few days from my trip to Bishop last November. I'll start with some pictures from the Buttermilks. High Plains Drifter Cave Probl...
New Dave Graham Blog
Normally I would be more interested in this sort of thing but Dave Graham seems to be losing it a bit. He has a new Pro Blog at Climbing.com which is pretty uninformative if you wa...
New Josune Bereziartu Pro Blog
Freakishly strong and freakishly man-ish Spanish climber Josune Bereziartu has an updated blog about her 2nd ascent of Patxi Usobiaga's .14b Mandragora in the Ordesa Valley, Spain.
News & Notes - 2/26/2007
Not much going on the past week, here are a few quick hitters: Ty Landman flashed the first ascent of Freak Brothers II (V10/11) at Boulder Canyon, CO. It was quickly repeated by h...
Horse Pens 40
It's not a big secret that Horse Pens 40 has some of the best bouldering in the Southeast and arguably in the whole country. I have been to only a handful of the "destination" boul...
New Ethan Pringle Blog
Ethan Pringle has a new Pro Blog over at Climbing Magazine's website . Some good pictures and a good insight into all of the cool bouldering he has been doing lately.
What’s the Point?
Before I get too ahead of myself I should probably at least say a little about what my whole point here is. It basically comes down to this: I am obsessed with all facets of rock c...
"What was the standard…
...you know...they're going to get flashed" - paraphrasing Dave Graham in Dosage 4. Speaking of standard setting problems getting flashed, Freakclimbing has a good story about the...
Five Ten Dragon Shoe Review
I finally got my hands on a pair of the “new” 5.10 Dragons last month and they blew my mind. I have pretty much always been a 5.10 addict and I have had basically all of their “hig...
2007 ABS Nationals Results
Here are the results from the ABS National Bouldering Competition held Feb 16-17 in Maryland. Men 1 Daniel Woods 4400.00 2 Paul Robinson 4400.00 3 Sean McColl 4400.00 Women 1 Alex...