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News & Notes – 08/07/2009
News
- Nalle Hukkataival has added a new V15 called Livin Large at Rocklands, South Africa. It took Hukkataival 12 days of work to open the amazing looking 25 ft. tall arete. Read more at the Lenslam blog.
- Keita Mogaki has flashed his second V13, Klem Loskot’s Black Shadow at Rocklands, South Africa. Read an interview he did with Stikkit here.
- Congratulations to Gabor Szekely and Sasha DiGiulian for sending their hardest routes on a recent low gravity day in Rodellar, Spain. Szekely sent Los Inconformistas (5.14d) and Sasha DiGiulian sent Botanics (5.13d/.14a). Los Inconformistas was also sent in recent days by Magnus Midtbø and Felipe Camargo.
- Matt Wilder did the 3rd ascent of Sonnie Trotter's traditional route The Path (5.14 R) at Lake Louise in Canada.
Notes
- SuperTopo recently released two new guidebooks, one for the bouldering in Tuolumne and the other for free climbing in Zion. I haven't had a chance to review them yet, but if you order a pdf version of either book by August 9th you receive a print version for FREE (no shipping or sales tax either). I used this deal last year in buying a couple of books and I think it works out great to have both a printed copy and an online version of a guidebook so don't delay.
- Photos and thoughts from several people at the recent memorial in Mammoth Lakes for John Bachar.
- Ryan Olson has a nicely redesigned website.
- Story about Alex Honnold in a local CA paper.
- Alex Johnson blogs about the deplorable conditions athletes faced at the recent World Championships in China.
- A nice interview with Rock & Ice editor Jeff Jackson.
- A few more links to wrap up Outdoor Retailer Summer Market '09: Sicky Gnar Gnar, Splitter Choss, DPM, UCMag
- Is the advancement of climbing in terms of "technology, practice, arena or destination" over?
- Big Up Productions is experimenting with HD downloads of their films
- The new Moosejaw catalog is a bit puzzling.
- Moutaineering legend Riccardo Cassin has passed away at age 100
And Videos!
Footage of Peter Würth on the first full link of Parts 1, 2 and 3 of The Neverending Story in Magic Wood. The first 2 parts are a well known V14 first done by Chris Sharma.
Women's highlights from the 2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships
Men's highlights from the 2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships
12 comments
Your Alex Johnson blurb links to Carlo Traversi's blog. :)
Ooops. Thanks for pointing that out. It should be fixed now.
That is really a shame about the conditions in China for the competitors. That had to be so hard to climb with your body feeling like that. It should be mentioned though that when they got back to LA they had a bunch of Domino's pizza... talk about your digestion issues, I have to actually sit on the toilet while eating that stuff it goes thru me so fast. haha
What the hell was that rant about Moosejaw? Just a company trying to make it out there... Who cares. Jeez.
On another note, yeah, the China comp sounds like it sucked. I was in China about 20 years ago in high school, and it sounds like nothing has changed. We were told not to drink the water, but it didn't matter. I guess the 'food' itself was enough to clean out the intestines. I am always amazed that when we go out for Chinese here in the US it bears essentially no resemblance to what we were eating over there. Beautiful country though, amazing culture and a great place to visit otherwise...
The rant is a bit over the top, but that is par for the course at SA. The funny part is this: when I got home after reading that post Mrs. Narc was leafing through the same catalog and was like WTF, what's up with this?
That dude's retarded... what guy complains about a bunch of pretty woman in underwear... its like a victoria secret catalogue only for outdoor gear. BILLIANT!
I'm not saying I didn't like it, but I did find it an odd way to sell women's jackets.
I am now interested in purchasing a woman's jacket... and I'd kind of like to purchase one of those knight's helmets
rhetoricallytarded? apart from being an oh-so-funny play on the word "retarded" (get it? get it?), it's rude and offensive. kind of like the advertisements s/he's whining about in the first place. Also, evidently you get into post-feminist heaven by getting so caught up in your rant you lose the ability to express yourself clearly. S/he is writing for Judith Butler, not Rock Climbers. My recommendation: keep the climbing climbing; and don't link to that trash in the future.
Nothing on Fred Nicole?
Didn't he just put up something really hard?
I will not say that I did not like the catalog. It didn't make me want to buy anything in particular, however. However, if Sweaty buys a knight's helmet, I will too. Monkey see monkey do. ce
lol. you're lucky i give good beta, otherwise you'd be screwed.