Joe's Valley: Time For A Change
The Access Fund : As the popularity of Joe’s Valley continues to rise, increased climber traffic is causing some extreme environmental impacts that could threaten access if not add...
Category
Access
Ticked Off
The Access Fund : Despite the obvious benefit of chalk for climbing—its drying effect on sweaty hands—climbers can often get carried away with it. Over the years, chalk gets caked...
Hueco Tanks Public Use Plan Under Review
Melissa Strong, who owns and operates the excellent Wagon Wheel Co-opt in Hueco Tanks , brings news that the Public Use Plan that lays out guidelines for access to Hueco Tanks is u...
Petition To Save Geyikbayiri
Bad news about potential mining at the Turkish sport climbing paradise , Geyikbayiri: Rock climbing at Geyikbayiri, one of biggest and the most famous sport climbing areas in Turke...
Give The Gift Of Access
Word on the street is that now is a big time of year for buying things, so if we're all going to be buying things why not give the gift of Access this holiday season? The Access Fu...
The Future Of Climbing
Climbing Business Journal reports from a recent meeting of "an informal group of leaders in the climbing industry" where issues like routesetter safety and poor behavior at outdoor...
Commit To The Pact
Commit to The Pact Watch on vimeo
Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition and Access Fund Offer Joint Membership
Big news for the Access Fund and the Red River Gorge: The Access Fund and Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) are excited to announce they have combined forces to offer joi...
Muir Valley Project
Muir Valley Project Watch on vimeo
Muir Valley To Be Gifted To Climbing Community
Muir Valley, one of the most popular areas in the Red River Gorge, is being gifted by its owners to the climbing community
Save Getu
Bad news about potential future development in Getu, China, an area made famous in climbing circles by the 2011 Petzl Roc Trip : Unfortunately the peaceful environment I recalled f...
Fire Hits The Grampians...Again
Another year of fires in Australia : How long the northern Grampians will remained closed is anyone’s guess. Parks Victoria will have to go in and assess the damage and replace any...
10 Questions With Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson
Nice interview with Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson by The Adventure Journal: I think if climbers took a moment to learn more about what we do, how much we accomplish...
Educate For Access
The conversation is being had and as climbers we are all a part of it. The knowledge of outdoor etiquette and ethics has been passed down from our elders and mentors but today it's...
Top 10 Access Victories Of 2013
2013 was a big year for the Access Fund.
Access Fund Holiday Packs
The 2013 edition of the always popular Access Fund Holiday Packs are now on sale . Give someone (or yourself) the gift of access this holiday season and they can get some nice bonu...
Educate For Access
Joe Kinder, on his time at the Educate For Access event held recently in New York: In some ways I am the wrong person to speak about this… I mean HELL, I thought I knew all the eti...
Can Climbers Think More Clearly About Ethics?
Peter Beal weighs in on Junipergate: I think Joe has received enough of a shellacking from everyone else and I consider him a friend so I am not going to deliver a sermon on why cu...
Petzl Responds To Joe Kinder Situation
Petzl, one of Joe Kinder's sponsors, weighs in on Junipergate : But as actions speak louder than words, we're encouraged that in addition to paying a fine to the Forest Service, Jo...
Kinder Kind Of Climbers
In the nearly 1,000 posts about Junipergate on Supertopo I found at least one redeeming item in the form of this post on Wavehaven Adventures: If someone proclaims that they are th...
My Actions, My Responsibility, And My Mistake
Joe Kinder, writing on his blog about an incident that took place recently near Tahoe: To make a long story short, I was recently informed that I had done something wrong last mont...
Government Shutdown Closes Climbing Areas Across the Country
The Access Fund has setup a page to make it easier for you to let Congress know how you feel about them shutting down the government and the National Parks we all pay for. The good...
Save Oak Flat
Shit: There is a vote scheduled for this Thursday, September 19th in the US House of Representatives on legislation that would trade away the popular Oak Flat climbing area in Ariz...
Behind The Founding Of The Bighorn Climber's Coalition
Nice piece on DPM about an important step being taken to form a climber's coalition for the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming which are home to the increasingly popular Ten Sleep Canyon...
Between Rocklands And A Hard Place
Why??? Discarded climbing tape and litter are an everyday find at the climbing areas; faeces and toilet paper are hidden in caves and under rocks; and huge tick lines and graffiti...
Rocklands Bouldering Crisis
Rocklands bouldering access is in jeopardy
If You're Not An Access Fund Member, What Are You?
Louder Than 11's Jordan Shipman : The sad truth, however, is that less than 1% of the climbing community are members of the Access Fund. There are millions of climbers out there in...
Climbers Buying Up More Land In Kentucky
Big news for climbers visiting the Red River Gorge in Kentucky: The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) and Access Fund are thrilled to announce the acquisition of 309 acre...
NPS Authorizes Fixed Anchors In Wilderness
Big news from the Access Fund: After decades of work, the Access Fund received notice yesterday from National Park Service (NPS) that the agency has issued final national policy au...
Climbing Banned At Castle Rocks, ID
More bad access news, this time from Idaho : On April 17, 2013, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in Idaho announced that all rock climbing activity will be banned on its 400-acr...
Climbing Banned On Basalt Columns In Armenia
Bad news for anyone psyched about making the trip to Armenia to climb on the incredibly unique looking basalt columns that were on the cover of Rock & Ice a few years back: By this...
Rumbling Bald: Open Access
Rumbling Bald: Open Access Watch on vimeo
Red Rocks: Open Access
Red Rocks: Open Access Watch on vimeo
News & Notes - 9/14/2011
News & Notes from Sasha DiGiulian, Ben Spannuth, Dai Koyamada and a slew of upcoming access related events...
Plan For Development Near Red Rock Gets Initial Approval
A proposed development near Red Rock gets initial approval
News & Notes - 8/17/2011
News & Notes from Jonathan Siegrist, 5.14d and V14 in a week by Jorg Verhoeven, a hard mult-pitch gets repeated and MUCH more...
Help Save Red Rock Canyon
Development threatens to change the experience at Nevada's Red Rock Canyon forever
Access Fund, Jeep Team Up For National Conservation Team & New Access Fund Smartphone App
News from the Access Fund including how they are teaming up with Jeep to employ two people in a national trail building campaign and a new Access Fund smartphone app for both iOS a...
American Alpine Club Making Changes, Launching New $25k Conservation Grant Program
The American Alpine Club launches their Five Year Plan as well as the Cornerstone Conservation Grant program
News & Notes - 6/1/2011
News & Notes from Ethan Pringle, Nina Caprez, Carlo Traversi, Jimmy Webb, potential problems with the GriGri 2 and much more...
More Thoughts On RRG And Access Situations In General
In the wake of yesterday's news of the closure of Roadside at the Red River Gorge many people took to Facebook and message boards to register their displeasure with the news. Emoti...
Access Alert For California State Parks
Keeping with the access theme , Prana has a post on their blog about the pending closure of 70 California State Parks including several that offer access to climbing like Caste Roc...
Access News From The Red River Gorge
The extended Memorial Day weekend will be here in short order and for many climbers the 3-day weekend affords us the opportunity to hit the road to our favorite climbing destinatio...
News & Notes - 4/12/2011
News & Notes from Nina Caprez, Cedric Lachat, Kevin Jorgeson, Fred Nicole and much more...
News & Notes - 3/22/2011
News & Notes from Adam Ondra, Daniel Woods and much more...
Access Victories In California & Tennessee
Congrats to everyone that helped to "unlock" California's Jailhouse Rock raising over $49,000 to aid in the acquisition of that property. Congrats also go out to everyone that help...
Action Alert Regarding NPS Wilderness Fixed Anchor Proposal
The Access Fund has posted a call for climber input regarding the National Park Service's draft of its wilderness management policies which was released back in January. This poli...
Deep Creek Access Fundraiser
Late last year the Southeastern Climbers Coalition announced a fundraising drive for a new tract of land purchased near the sport climbing area Deep Creek and the boulders of the S...
News & Notes - 1/25/2011
Has it really been almost 2 months since we last did this??? Hopefully this massive round-up of News & Notes will get me back in your good graces...
Action Alert For North Carolina's Chimney Rock State Park
The Access Fund has an alert on their website concerning a plan being proposed for North Carolina's Chimney Rock State Park. The plan allows for continued climbing at established a...
Access Secured At California's Jailhouse, Access Fund Needs Your Help
The Access Fund has secure permanent access to Sonora, California's Jailhouse crag thanks to the dedicated efforts of locals, cooperation with private landowners and a $100,000 loa...
Help The Southeastern Climbers Coalition Win A $250,000 Grant
See how you can help the Southeastern Climbers Coalition win a $250,000 grant from Pepsi to help preserve climbing access in the southeast
News & Notes - 09/21/2010
News & Notes from the European Championships, Alex Honnold, Steve Wempler and more
Access Alert In Arches National Park
The Access Fund has issued an access alert for Utah's Arches National Park in the hopes of restoring climbing opportunities there after Dean Potter's climb of Delicate Arch in 2006...
Access Fund, RRGCC Team Up To Refi Land At Red River Gorge
Fairly big access news concerning the Red River Gorge today as the Access Fund is helping the RRGCC restructure their loan on the increasingly popular Pendergrass-Murray Recreation...
News & Notes - 05/26/2010
News & Notes from Jonathan Siegrist, Paige Claasen, Mike Foley, Alex Honnold and more...
Waterworks Fundraiser
Find out how you can help open The Waterworks, a new bouldering area at the Gunks in New York
News & Notes – 05/05/2010
A special Access edition of News & Notes with additional news from Adam Ondra, Jimmy Webb, Dai Koyamada and more...
News & Notes – 3/29/2010
News & Notes about an 8 year-old sending V10, a new climbing gym, route development and much more...
News & Notes – 3/16/2010
News & Notes from Alex Honnold, Natasha Barnes, GP Salvo, Dean Potter, Yvon Chouinard and more...
Access Alert In Yosemite
The Access Fund has an alert on their website about some potential negative changes on the horizon for climbers in Yosemite Valley . Check it out to see how you can help.
American Alpine Club Promo Video
AAC Promo Trailer Watch on youtube
Super Topo Auction Benefiting Access Fund
Super Topo is running an auction on gear and guidebooks to benefit the Access Fund . Hurry, there are only 6 days left!
CCC And Access Fund To Purchase Bouldering Area In North Carolina
The Carolina Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund have teamed up to purchase the Rumbling Bald West Side Boulders in North Carolina under the Access Fund’s new Land Conservation...
Climbing Video: Erik Weihenmayer Climbing Blind In Eldorado Canyon
Video of blind climber Erik Weihenmayer climbing The Naked Edge (5.11) in Colorado's Eldorado Canyon to raise awareness for the Access Fund
2009 Yosemite Facelift & Auction
September 23rd through the 27th is the 6th annual Yosemite Facelift to help clean up Yosemite Valley. Even if you can’t attend in person, you can help the cause by bidding on auct...
Access Troubles In Vietnam?
Interesting article about potential access problems in Vietnam which has been featured in recent climbing videos The Players and Dosage 3.
News & Notes – 08/28/2009
Sport climbing news from France and Colorado and a slew of notes...
New Multimillion Dollar Loan Program From The Access Fund
The Access Fund recently announced a new multimillion dollar revolving loan program called the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign. Click here to read more about it.
Upcoming Access Events In Colorado
For those reading from Colorado here are a couple of upcoming access related events you may be interested in.
Access Troubles In Yangshuo
The limestone sport climbing crags near Yangshuo, China, specifically White Mountain, have been receiving an increased level of attention the past couple of years. The climbing the...
Draper’s Bluff CLOSED
Via Team Saucisson comes word that Draper’s Bluff in Southern Illinois is CLOSED to climbing until further notice.
News & Notes – 05/07/2009
News & Notes returns...
Interesting Closure At The New River Gorge
In areas like Colorado's Frontrange seasonal crag closures to accommodate nesting birds are an accepted fact of life, but a recent closure in West Virginia has the locals buzzing.
Buttermilks Cleanup This Saturday
On Saturday, April 18, please join the Friends of the Inyo and the Eastern Sierra Climbers Coalition for a day of fulfilling volunteer work and an evening of entertainment.
Temporary Closure At Hueco Tanks
The Grenade Boulder, home to the classic Nobody Gets Out Of Here Alive (V2) at Hueco Tanks’ North Mountain, has come under a temporary closure due to nesting wrens. Read the full...
Another Climbing Area Being Purchased By The SCC
The Southeastern Climbers Coalition continues to lead the way when it comes to securing permanent access to previously closed climbing areas. Late last year they secured access to...
Update On Kentucky’s Bridge To Nowhere
Just a quick post to update everyone on a situation that was brewing last year. You’ll remember that there was some talk about building a bridge through one of the Red River Gorge’...
News & Notes: 1/6/2009
News & Notes from Shawn Diamond, Alex Johnson, Matt Segal, Matt Wilder, Tim Clifford and much more...
Alabama’s Crag X Update
A few weeks back I posted about a secret crag that the Southeastern Climber’s Coalition was attempting to purchase. At the time, the name of the crag was being withheld until plans...
The Southeastern Climbers Coalition Needs Your Help!
On the heels of last week’s access alert in Kentucky comes another alert. Unlike the well-known Red River Gorge's Muir Valley, little is known about this yet-to-be-named Alabama cr...
Kentucky’s Bridge To Nowhere
Proposed road improvements could negatively impact access to Kentucky's Muir Valley climbing area.
Climbers Take The Access Initiative In Joe’s Valley
This has been posted elsewhere already, but I thought it was important to pass along as a general reminder for visitors to all climbing areas. Often times the things we take for gr...
More Details On 8th Annual Red River Gorge Rocktoberfest
Pre-Registration for the festivities at this weekend’s 8th Annual Rocktoberfest in the Red River Gorge of Kentucky is closing soon. The event promises to have plenty of music, food...
Niagara Glen Bouldering Access In Jeopardy
Bouldering access at the Canadian area Niagara Glen is in jeopardy. Located just across the border from Buffalo, NY, “The Glen” is a popular destination for U.S. & Canadian climber...
News & Notes - 8/4/2008
News & Notes from bouldering strongmen, a Mt. Evans bouldering guidebook in the works, the Fortress Of Solitude and more...
Torrent Falls Re-Opened To Public Climbers
Been itching to send one of those classic 5.11 or 5.12s at the Red River Gorge’s Torrent Falls Crag ? Bummed that is has been closed to the public for the better part of 1+ year? W...
Muir Valley
Muir Valley, for those that don't know, is a sport climbing area in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. However, calling it a sub-area of the RRG is somewhat misleading as it is actually...
Gibraltar Rock
Unfortunately, I can't claim much knowledge about the bolted sandstone climbing at Gibraltar Rock near Devil's Lake, WI. In fact, it took me several years before I even realized h...
How Much Landscaping Of Boulders Is Ok?
These days I don't get to spend as much time on MVM as I would like, however when I received an email from a reader alerting me to a possible ethical lapse in one of their latest v...
Keep Up The Support Update
Thanks to everyone that has used Climbingnarc.com to place their order with any one of our retail affiliates. Just that easily you have helped to raise money for climbing acc...
News & Notes: Friday Links
Here are a few links for your Friday reading pleasures: A good post on the various ways to manage your rope(s) on multi-pitch routes Canada's Tour de Bloc bouldering event in Frede...
Keep Up The Support
Thanks to whomever used Climbingnarc.com to place their order with Moosejaw . Just that easily you have helped to raise $5 for climbing access and you probably bought some cool stu...
RRGCC Donation
Thanks to everyone who has visited this site and supported my sponsors. Thanks to you I was recently able to make a donation in the amount of $100 to the Red River Gorge Climbers'...
Front Range Freaks?
If you are still bored at work/school today and want to do some reading on how some Frontrange climbers hash out their differences then head over to the FRB message boards. The iss...
A Fresh Start
At the suggestion of a fellow climbing blogger , I have decided to move my blog from Blogger to a self-hosted WordPress blog. It will probably take a few days for everything to get...
Pad Stashing in RMNP
Back in the day when I visited RMNP to explore the alpine bouldering there was to be done there, I distinctly remember seeing some pads around the boulders that curiously didn't se...
More Muir Valley Drama
Those of you that read this that have never been to the Red River Gorge probably don't find these Muir Valley updates that interesting but among people that climb at the Red MV see...
Muir Valley Access News
If you ever climb at the Red River Gorge, you are going to have think twice about bringing your dog into Muir Valley : Effective January 1, 2008, dogs will no longer be permitted i...
All’s Not Well In Swizzy
Mixed news out of the climbing paradises of Switzerland. The good news is that James Pearson has made his 2nd flash of a V13 boulder. I had previously reported that he flashed Gany...