Joe's Valley: Time For A Change
The Access Fund : As the popularity of Joe’s Valley continues to rise, increased climber traffic is causing some extreme environmental impacts that could threaten access if not add...
Category
Asides
Possible 5.14c FA By Mark Anderson
Mark Anderson 1 , writing on his blog about the FA of a potential 5.14c in Colorado's Clear Creek Canyon called Siberian Express : I’m calling the route Siberian Express . Based on...
The Heart-Stopping Climbs Of Alex Honnold
Another big, mainstream news piece on Alex Honnold, this time in a cover story for The New York Times Magazine . Plenty of great insight into what makes Honnold tick, but I especia...
The Dawn Wall Interviews
Cool, interactive piece from Climbing on the Dawn Wall featuring interviews with both Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell. I particularly liked this quote from Tommy about why he is...
Chris Sharma Talks About His Latest FA
PlanetMountain caught up with Chris Sharma on the heels of his recent FA of El Bon Combat : It’s about 25m long, up some really interesting rock, a mix of sandstone and conglomerat...
Ticked Off
The Access Fund : Despite the obvious benefit of chalk for climbing—its drying effect on sweaty hands—climbers can often get carried away with it. Over the years, chalk gets caked...
Mission Accomplished
Mike Anderson, writing on his blog after climbing his first 5.14c, Daniel Woods' Mission Impossible in Clear Creek Canyon, CO, at the age of 37: Even as I write this a couple days...
Hueco Tanks Public Use Plan Under Review
Melissa Strong, who owns and operates the excellent Wagon Wheel Co-opt in Hueco Tanks , brings news that the Public Use Plan that lays out guidelines for access to Hueco Tanks is u...
Mike Doyle Repeats Necessary Evil (5.14c)
Mike Doyle, writing on his blog about becoming "the oldest, shortest, weakest and least talented climber" to repeat the rarely-repeated Chris Sharma testpiece Necessary Evil (5.14c...
Petition To Save Geyikbayiri
Bad news about potential mining at the Turkish sport climbing paradise , Geyikbayiri: Rock climbing at Geyikbayiri, one of biggest and the most famous sport climbing areas in Turke...
Alex Puccio's 9th National Championship
Alex Puccio, writing about her mindset prior to winning her 9th National Championship in bouldering: I always feel more pressure for ABS Nationals than any other Pro competition in...
Potential New V15 In The UK
Climb Magazine reports on a potential new V15 in the UK by Mike Adams: The latest chapter unfolded on Tuesday 3rd of February when Mike managed to link in the obvious low start of...
Interview With ABS Nationals Winner Mohammad Jafari
Nice interview with surprise ABS Nationals winner Mohammad Jafari Mahmodabadi by his home gym in the U.S., Earth Treks Climbing in Golden, CO: For me, winning championships comes s...
"I would like to take a look at it"
Adam Ondra, in an interview with Squamish Climbing Magazine about his thoughts on Yosemite and the Dawn Wall: Yes, I feel ashamed that I have never been to Yosemite, and this climb...
Daniel Woods Talks About The Process
Daniel Woods, writing about his recent FA of The Process in Bishop, CA which he believes is V16: To grade something like this is hard. Media loves big numbers and to see a progress...
Fear Of Falling
One story that re-emerged during the big Dawn Wall push was this incredible story from 2000 when a young Tommy Caldwell, along with Beth Rodden, John Dickey and Jason Smith, was ab...
"It's Really A Lifestyle"
T0mmy Caldwell, being interviewed by the New York Time minutes after topping out the Dawn Wall: I would love for this to open people’s minds to what an amazing sport this is. I thi...
New York Times Profiles Tommy Caldwell
John Branch also profiled Tommy Caldwell for the New York Times : Whatever part inside of Tommy Caldwell that made him attempt the seemingly impossible — a free climb of El Capitan...
New York Times Profiles Kevin Jorgeson
John Branch has been doing some really good pieces about the Dawn Wall for the New York Times , and this profile on Kevin Jorgeson is no exception. Of note is Jorgeson's comments o...
Dawn Wall Project Goes Mainstream
The efforts by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson to free climb a route up El Capitan's Dawn Wall is really blowing up with much of the climbing world and now even the New York Time...
Adam Ondra Climbs His 100th 5.14d Or Harder
Finally . Other than the sheer absurdity of the number, what I find most interesting about this is that Ondra did his first 5.14d way back in 2006 when he was just 13. Since then a...
Give The Gift Of Access
Word on the street is that now is a big time of year for buying things, so if we're all going to be buying things why not give the gift of Access this holiday season? The Access Fu...
Revolution & Pusher Closing Up Shop In The U.S.
Unfortunate news from The Cordless Group, parent company of Revolution pads and Pusher holds: To keep this company going, I am facing a hard reality; make huge financial investment...
How to Carry A Crashpad
My hands down favorite is The Sled. Can't wait for sledding season to start...
Dave Pegg, Prominent Climber And Guidebook Publisher Is Gone
DPM 's Mikey Williams, writing about the passing of Dave Pegg : Dave founded Wolverine Publishing in the early 2000s and quickly changed the landscape of climbing guidebooks foreve...
Dave Pegg
Sad news from Rock & Ice about the passing of prolific route developer and guidebook publisher Dave Pegg: To say that Dave was a serious climber is an understatement. Rifle, and th...
"A True Midwestern Climber"
Alex Honnold, writing about his record-setting experience at the 2014 edition of 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell: By the end of the day our skin was wrecked and our bodies hurt, but we’...
The Transient Power Of Travel
Justin Roth, writing on The Stone Mind after returning from the final leg of this year's Petzl Roc Trip: Often, the flashiness of the itinerant lifestyle is held up as the antidote...
The Future Of Climbing
Climbing Business Journal reports from a recent meeting of "an informal group of leaders in the climbing industry" where issues like routesetter safety and poor behavior at outdoor...
The Answer Is Yes
Question posed to Climbing.com's "Answer Man": Clipping your toenails in the middle of the gym is totally disgusting—am I right? Answer from me: of course you are right. The fact t...
Angela Eiter Climbs Her First 5.14d
The Year of the Female Climber™ continues, this time with Austria's Angela Eiter doing her first 5.14d at Nassereith, Austria: Just a few days ago we mentioned Eiter's first ascent...
More Olympic Push
The push for climbing to be an Olympic sport continues : "I'm open to anything because I love our sport," Dornberger said. "I love tradition, but it's vital that we become an Olymp...
"I kind of know how to climb"
Adam Ondra, in an interview with Evening Sends : For me, however, it takes less time to adapt because I have climbed many kilometers of rock in my life—on all kinds rock and differ...
Hey, What's That Thing On Your Back?
Well-timed post over on The Stone Mind about the inevitable questions we get any time we go bouldering around normal people: I’ve bouldered for 20 years now and have been asked thi...
Are Climbing Videos Too Tame?
Daniel Woods, in an interview by Andrew Bisharat for Without Walls : In climbing films, I feel like there is a pattern that we all follow. The filmmakers ask us the same questions...
U.S. Team Shines At Paraclimbing World Championship
In addition to the lead competition won by Adam Ondra and Jain Kim , the Paraclimbing World Championships also happened last weekend in Gijon, Spain. Climbing.com has the full brea...
Valley Uprising Nostalgic
Smart piece by Andrew Bisharat about the new Reel Rock Tour film Valley Uprising that premieres tomorrow night in Boulder, CO: Why are we watching this film in 2014—really? And wha...
Honnold Free Solos Squamish's University Wall
Alex Honnold has been keeping busy up in Squamish, soloing 290 pitches for his 29th birthday on August 17th and then soloing University Wall on The Chief : This August 25, Honnold...
A Group Lifts Paraclimbers To Higher Goals
Nice piece in the New York Time the other week on The Adaptive Climbing Group, a group of paraclimbers in New York: The Adaptive Climbing Group is the brainchild of Kareemah Batts,...
R.I.P. Flyin’ Brian McCray
Nice post by Mikey at DPM about the sad passing of legendary route developer Flyin' Brian McCray from an apparent suicide: Brian’s impact on New River Gorge climbing cannot be over...
Alex Honnold And The Relativity Of Risk
Alex Honnold, writing for Alpinist about his free solo of El Sendero Luminoso : That meant five more people who'd flown down and who were now waiting for me to solo a big wall. And...
Outdoor Retailer Summer 2014 Climbing Report
Nice recap by Splitter Choss of the recently completed 2014 Outdoor Retailer Summer Trade Show. I was actually able to make a brief stop at the show in between Psicocomp duties, bu...
Did Psicocomp Just Make Speed Climbing Cool?
Justin Roth, writing on The Stone Mind about last week's Psicocomp : The 2014 Psicocomp ended up even more exciting than the 2013 version. Clearly the event organizers paid attenti...
Why Psicocomp Is The Best Competitive Climbing Event In North America
Alex Johnson is a big fan of the recently completed Psicocomp 1 . I was not aware of reason #11 until I read her post, but that is a pretty nice bonus.
Delaney Miller On Psicocomp
Delaney Miller, writing on Petzl's blog after finishing 2nd in the Psicocomp for the 2nd consecutive year: Rock climbing is my absolute passion and I consider myself incredibly luc...
5.14a Onsight By Kai Lightner
After getting knocked out of Friday night's Psicocomp in the first round by Jimmy Webb, Kai Lightner made his way to nearby Maple Canyon on Saturday where he had a big day accordin...
Project 360: The Eiger's North Face
Mammut is back again with another cool multimedia project, this time it's a 360 degree interactive photo/video tour of the legendary Eiger North Face . Cool stuff. Climbing.com has...
Heather Weidner Repeats Stockboy's Revenge (5.14b)
Heather Weidner, writing on her blog after completing her first 5.14b with a repeat of Andy Raether's Stockboy's Revenge (5.14b) in Rifle, CO: The crux of Stockboys is about 2/3 up...
Audrey Sniezek Repeats Lost World (5.14b)
Audrew Sniezek, writing on her blog about how she juggles a full-time job and sending 5.14b with her recent repeat of Lost World at Little Si, WA: The early morning routine, if you...
The Time Value Of Climbing Ability
It's like the past 15 years of my climbing life are flashing before my eyes each time I re-read this post on the Rock Climber's Training Manual blog : For many climbers, the unrest...
Tamás Zupán's Path To V15
Nice piece on OnBouldering.com about Tamás Zupán's recent repeat of Daniel Woods' In Search Of Time Lost (V15): Back in Budapest, Tamás developed a special training regime, tailore...
1975
Sonnie Trotter : In 1975 three Rockies legends scoured The Bow Valley in search of the next great aid line. At the time, they were preparing themselves for a very early repeat of t...
First Ascents For Paul Robinson In South Africa
DPM caught up with Paul Robinson who spent the past couple of months exploring a newer area in South Africa called Three Corners: On my fourth trip , I was told vaguely about some...
Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition and Access Fund Offer Joint Membership
Big news for the Access Fund and the Red River Gorge: The Access Fund and Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) are excited to announce they have combined forces to offer joi...
7 In 7
Dave Allfrey, writing for Alpinist about his and Alex Honnold's recent efforts to climb El Capitan seven times in seven consecutive days: In the end I believe we found what we were...
"I'm going to send it today"
PlanetMountain caught up with Alex Megos after his one day ascent 1 of Biographie (5.15a): I warmed up by checking out the moves on Biographie, this took circa 1 hour. Then I start...
Another 5.14d Onsight For Adam Ondra
After another disappointing finish in a Lead World Cup in Chamonix where he failed to make it out of the qualifiers due to skipping a clip on the 2nd qualifier route, Adam Ondra ma...
Biographie In A Day By Alex Megos
In case we needed more evidence that Alex Megos is one of the top climbers in history, over the weekend he repeated Chris Sharma's Biographie (5.15a) in just one day. One. Day. Bio...
Second In The World
Shauna Coxsey, reflecting on her 2nd place finish in this year's Bouldering World Cup: I finished second in the World. I am happy with that result. I am content with the season as...
3rd Free Ascent Of PreMuir By Elias & Kerzhner
Rock & Ice caught up with Sam Elias after he and Mike Kerzhner did the 3rd free ascent of PreMuir (5.13+) on El Capitan in Yosemite, CA: He fired it . Then, so did I. It wasn’t rom...
Sean McColl's Double Podium Weekend
Sean McColl, writing on his blog : I knew before this weekend started that it was going to be one of the hardest I’d ever have to endure. To compete in 3 disciplines in one weekend...
Nalle Hukkataival Climbs Hard Multipitch
Not content with climbing the hardest boulder problems in the world, Nalle Hukkataival decided to get in the multipitch game with a free ascent of the route Silbergeier in Rätikon,...
Waggoner Takes The Reins at USA Climbing
Climbing Business Journal : USA Climbing, the National Governing Body for Competition Climbing, is proud to announce that Kynan Waggoner has been named the Chief Executive Officer...
First 5.14c For Nina Caprez
27 year-old Swiss climber Nina Caprez has done her first 5.14c with a repeat of Hélix au pays des merveilles at France's Pic Saint Loup: “I fell in love”, Nina raves about the line...
Five Ten Camp Four Shoe
Nice review of my favorite non-climbing pair of shoes I own, the Five Ten Camp Four : It’s nice to have a few time-tested items in your arsenal that you can simply order brand new...
On The Circuit
Nice piece by the inimitable BearCam for Rock & Ice about the incredible concentration of hard bouldering along Bear Lake Road in Rocky Mountain National Park: Bear Lake Road is Ro...
Psicobloc Masters Series Returns August 6-8
Exciting news : Today the Psicobloc Masters Series announced the schedule of events for the Psicobloc (Spanish for “crazy bouldering,” or what is commonly referred to as “deep-wate...
"Like a banshee"
Jonathan Siegrist, in an email exchange with Rock & Ice regarding his recent repeat of Biographie : R&I: Did you scream like Sharma when you stuck the jug near the top? JS: Like a...
Just Do It
Paige Claassen, writing on her blog about her recent send of Just Do It (5.14c): Just Do It was the culmination of all those years of practice. No more half committed efforts. No m...
The Climbing Accident That Almost Killed Me
Sobering story on CruxCrush : I did not always climb with a helmet, and my life changed forever when a large block of rock fell on my head. The resulting traumatic brain injury alm...
Mountain Project App Goes Free
Black Diamond PR on their new partnership with Mountain Project's mobile app: Black Diamond Equipment®, a global innovator in climbing, skiing, mountain sports equipment and appare...
Adam Ondra Onsighting 5.14d
Amazing video .
Melissa Le Nevé Repeats World's First 5.14b
PlanetMountain has the interview with Melissa Le Nevé after she became the first woman to climb the first 5.14b in the world, Wolfgang Güllich's Wallstreet in Germany's Frankenjura...
Jeff Lowe
John Meyer, writing in The Denver Post about climbing legend Jeff Lowe : A legendary mountain climber renowned for his athleticism, grace and creativity in the 1970s and 1980s, Low...
Petzl RocTrip Photo Contest
Cool contest going on right now by Petzl to win a trip to the Antalya, Turkey portion of the upcoming 2014 Petzl RocTrip . Mrs. Narc and I went to Antalya at the end of 2012 , and...
Drones Banned In Yosemite
Bad news from NBC for any of you filmmakers out there that were hoping to use one of those new fangled drone cameras in Yosemite: The U.S. National Park Service issued the unmanned...
The Day Tommy Caldwell Sent The Salathe Wall In A Day
Great piece by Tommy Caldwell about how he climbed El Cap's Salathe Wall in a day just months after losing his finger in a home improvement accident: But in the blink of an eye, it...
Action Directe (5.14d) In A Day By Alex Megos
PlanetMountain caught up with Alex Megos after he repeated the legendary Action Directe (5.14d) in just a few hours this past weekend: Yes, the thought had occurred to me but I the...
FA Of Gepresster Hase (V15) By Martin Keller
Nice write up by Martin Keller about his recent FA of Gepresster Hase , a proposed V15 in Sustenpass, Switzerland: But after a wild party night (till 3am) I finally got this one tr...
Sufferfest 2
Climbing.com has a nice report on the recent "Sufferfest 2" undertaken by Alex Honnold & Cedar Wright: Now they have completed Sufferfest 2, a 700-mile ride through Canyonlands in...
Musta Been High
Heather Weidner, writing on her blog about her recent repeat of the notorious trad line Musta Been High (5.13 R) in Eldorado Canyon: Some might say I Musta Been High to climb this...
Prana Living, Yoga Gear Maker, Is Sold to Columbia Sportswear
Interesting news today about one of my favorite companies: On Tuesday, Prana Living, a yoga gear maker, was sold to Columbia Sportswear for $190 million. Prana will join Columbia’s...
DRAWN
Jeremy Collins has long been one of my favorite artists in the outdoor world. In fact, Mrs. Narc and I have a print of his hanging over our fireplace, and it's one of my favorite t...
Save Getu
Bad news about potential future development in Getu, China, an area made famous in climbing circles by the 2011 Petzl Roc Trip : Unfortunately the peaceful environment I recalled f...
Interviewed By Crux Crush
After a brief vacation to Spain I'm back in the States trying to get caught up on everything 1 . Until I can get fully caught up, you can enjoy this interview I did with Crux Crush...
Tommy Caldwell: What I've Learned
Tommy Caldwell, writing in Rock & Ice : My greatest hardship would be the ordeal in Kyrgyzstan where four of us were kidnapped by Islamic militants for six days. It’s a long, compl...
Live Interview With Daniel Woods Tonight
Yours truly will be conducting a live interview with Daniel Woods tonight as part of the LT11. tv Live Talkshow series. Catch it here at 7 PM EDT, 4PM PDT. We'll be covering a lot...
Adventure Rock Opening 2nd Location
There are a lot of new gyms opening around the country these days, but the announcement this week that my home gym, Adventure Rock, is opening a 2nd location later this year was re...
What Girls Think (About Climbing With Dudes)
These are the true stories of female climbers--from five-year old girls who only climb the routes in the gym that have purple tape, to professional female climbers who have establi...
"If you love to fish, you fish"
So many gems in this Ascent article by Dave Graham it was hard to pick my favorite, but this part really stuck with me: I used to come home from fishing by myself and wonder what I...
3rd Ascent Of Mission Impossible By Mark Anderson
Rock & Ice has the story on Mark Anderson's 3rd ascent of Daniel Woods' Mission Impossible (5.14c-ish) at Clear Creek Canyon, CO: A self-proclaimed "weekend warrior," the 36-year-o...
Chasing Goals Not Grades
Nice interview by Crux Crush with Alex Puccio: I want to push myself outside. I haven’t tried many V13s so maybe I’ll try to do my first V13, but I don’t like chasing a grade. I li...
More Details On Death Of Mark Hesse
Longtime climber and conservationist Mark Hesse died while climbing at the Boulder Rock Club this past January, but until this week it was unclear what actually caused his death. W...
International Women's Day
I enjoyed reading these interviews the American Alpine Club did with Emily Harrington, Paige Claassen, Melissa Arnot, Sibylle Hechetel, Janet Bergman Wilkinson and Jenn Fleming ove...
The Hidden Industry Of Hold Manufacturing
Interesting piece in Climbing Business Journal about the industry behind many of the holds we pull down on in gyms around the country: For some hold companies, there seems to be no...
For Climbing's Indoor Champions, Will The Great Outdoors Become Irrelevant?
Interesting question raised by Chris Weidner in his column for Boulder's Daily Camera with regard to the possibility of someone winning a comp like ABS Nationals without climbing o...
His Life In His Hands
Interesting profile of Alex Honnold in Men's Fitness by Josh Dean that includes this tidbit on that building climb that was first announced last July: And yet, the checks keep gett...
The Day I Did Not Send Joe Blau
Greg Kerzhner, writing about his efforts to send Joe Blau in Oliana, Spain: A sad feeling comes. Like this is my one chance to finish this thing, the one thing I really cared about...
Charlie Porter
Great interview from Rock & Ice's archives with legendary climber and alpinist Charlie Porter who passed away recently at the age of 63: To an idealistic youth, who believe in hone...
Fred Nicole: A Climbing Trip To Patagonia
Fred Nicole is still out there exploring new bouldering areas at the age of 43, this time in Patagonia : The rock is beautiful and compact. In places it reminds me of a quartzite a...
What I Know Now
Cool piece on The Stone Mind where a number of climbers share things they wish they had known when they started climbing. I think I most identified with what Fitz Cahall had to say...
Honnold & Caldwell Pull Off "Mother Of All Traverses" In Patagonia
Rolando Garibotti, reporting in a post on SuperTopo : Between the 12th and 16th of February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed "Fitz...
Climbing Edition Of The Stars Are Just Like Us
Jakob Schubert, in a photo posted to Facebook during his current visit to Hueco Tanks: In the end it wasn't worth it though, at the second to last move I heard a loud noise and hop...
Man Makes History By Climbing 1,500-Foot El Sendero Luminoso With No Net
Not The Onion : In January, Honnold made history by becoming the first person to ever scale El Sendero Luminoso (Mexico) without the help of other climbers or safety equipment. Tha...
Steven Roth & Ethan Pringle Go Big
Alex Honnold's boulder problem free solo Too Big To Flail , which was featured in 2012's Reel Rock 7, has seen a lot of action of late. First up was Lonnie Kauk who repeated the pr...
Climbing Past My Pregnancy Stigma
Excellent first post in a series by Beth Rodden who is expecting her first child soon: When I first found out I was pregnant, I did a ton of research to see what other climbers exp...
Terje Haakonsen: Why I Still Hate The Olympics
Pro Snowboarder Terje Haakonsen is not a fan of the Olympics : If anything I feel even more strongly about it today. When I was younger, I was just thinking about snowboarding, but...
The True Story of the Carderock Killing
Great reporting by Sid Balman, Jr. on the bizarre alleged murder that took place at Maryland's Carderock at the end of 2012. The piece does go off the rails a bit and the end, howe...
Fire Hits The Grampians...Again
Another year of fires in Australia : How long the northern Grampians will remained closed is anyone’s guess. Parks Victoria will have to go in and assess the damage and replace any...
Outdoor Retailer Winter Market 2014 Climbing Report
On a more serious Outdoor Retailer note, Splitter Choss has their usual lowdown on a few of the new items shown off during the recent Outdoor Retailer Winter Market including a new...
The Death Of Plaid?
Dark times: For the past three Outdoor Retailer shows, I’ve blogged about the longstanding prevalence of plaid shirts in the outdoor industry. This year, I was burned out; I didn’t...
10 Questions With Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson
Nice interview with Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson by The Adventure Journal: I think if climbers took a moment to learn more about what we do, how much we accomplish...
El Sendero Luminoso Q & A With Alex Honnold
Alpinist caught up with Alex Honnold for a little Q & A about his recent free solo of El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico, Mexico: I used to be scared of spiders but I kind of...
Listening For The Echo
Really nice profile by Chris Schulte for Rock & Ice of the legendary Klem Loskot: These shouts have been in our heads since the year 2000, when Loskot’s marshaling call hit the Sta...
Chris Webb Parsons. Representing.
Really nice interview by Simon Carter with Aussie Chris Webb Parsons: Oh, my thumb. I use it like another finger. When I first started climbing I was reading about how to get stron...
Like A Ballerina
Alex Honnold, after soloing the sustained 1,500+ ft. 5.12 El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico, Mexico: “It felt pretty straight forward,” he says. “Once I started up, I was lik...
Climber Accused Of Murder In Carderock Death
Bizarre and sad story at Maryland's Carderock: A Virginia rock climber has been charged with manslaughter after allegedly attacking a man with a claw hammer at Carderock Park in Mo...
La Lune
After leaving empty handed last year, Jonathan Siegrist returns to Las Vegas and makes quick work of his project in Arrow Canyon, La Lune : I invested so much in this route and spe...
Bernd Zangerl Talks About Shantaram
UKC caught up with Bernd Zangerl to discuss his new problem Shantaram , which he opened this past summer in Norway: It is my hardest problem for sure - I can't compare it with anyt...
The Day I Sent The Nest
Daniel Woods : On the day I sent The Nest, we first stopped at another project in this wash, which we had been walking by and looking at multiple times on our way to The Nest. In a...
Your Project Can Wait
Interesting picture over at the RV Project which seems to show damage to one of the more photogenic boulders at Tennessee's Little Rock City due to the possible use of a blowtorch....
Top 10 Access Victories Of 2013
2013 was a big year for the Access Fund.
The Day I Sent
Cool new series from Andrew Bisharat on his blog Evening Sends called The Day I Sent which features a guest author writing about a meaningful ascent they did. The latest installmen...
America's Best 5.14s
Lists are all the rage on the internet these days and they are usually pretty much the worst thing ever. Then there is this list of the best 5.14s in America compiled by Jonathan S...
Keeping It All In Perspective
Nice interview over at Crux Crush with one of my favorite people in the climbing world, Angie Payne: If I could climb all the time? I wouldn’t. It’s really easy when I’m working al...
Ganesh
Paige Claassen , after making the FFA of the amazing looking route Ganesh (5.14) in Badami, India: Ganesh would become the inspiration behind Lead Now . I wanted to climb some of t...
[Sponsor] Black Diamond Apparel
My thanks to Black Diamond for sponsoring a portion of this site the past couple of months to promote their new men's clothing line . I had the chance to check out much of the new...
The Nose Wipe
Dave Campbell, as to why he got involved in the annual clean up effort on El Cap appropriately named "The Nose Wipe": Yvon Chouinard sums it up well in the movie 180° South : “The...
Adam Ondra's Hardest Routes In Flatanger
Nice piece by Rannevig Aamodt in Rock & Ice about Adam Ondra's work this past summer in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway: Hours later I was startled awake by Ondra standi...
Third 5.15c FA By Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has done his 3rd 5.15c FA 1 with the FA of Vasil Vasil at Sloup in his native Czech Republic. Ondra comments on the route in this interview with UKC : It might be weird...
Is Your Gym Guilty Of Music Piracy?
Interesting : At this very moment, climbing gyms across America are pumping pop, rock, reggae and other background music into their facilities to entertain customers while they cli...
Leslie Timms Repeats Sacred Geometry (5.13c)
Somewhat of a quiet season down in the Red River Gorge this fall, especially compared to last year , but one notable thing that caught my eye was this excellent post by Leslie Timm...
How Climbing Fits
Ty Landman, in an interview with UKC about a recent FA he did in the UK: I think an important part of climbing is figuring out what the sport means to you, and where and how it fit...
Toshi Takeuchi Repeats Meadowlark Lemon (V15)
Toshi Takeuchi has done the 4th ascent of Paul Robinson's Meadowlark Lemon (V15) in Red Rock, NV, his first of the grade and just his fourth V14 or harder. With the likes of Jimmy...
Access Fund Holiday Packs
The 2013 edition of the always popular Access Fund Holiday Packs are now on sale . Give someone (or yourself) the gift of access this holiday season and they can get some nice bonu...
First 5.14d For Muriel Sarkany
39-year-old Muriel Sarkany has added her name to a short list of women to climb 5.14d with her repeat of Punt-X in France's Gorges du Loup last week. Her comments to 8a : It is a d...
Story Behind The Image: Three Degrees of Chris Sharma
Really enjoyed this story from Corey Rich about how he came to capture some images of Chris Sharma on his unrepeated route Three Degrees Of Separation in Ceuse, France: The real st...
Adam Ondra Nominated For Adventurer Of The Year
Nice interview with Adam Ondra by Fitz Cahall as part of Ondra's being nominated for Nat Geo's Adventurer of the Year: I think sport climbing is still a relatively young sport. Not...
Human Error Blamed For Grapevine Climbing Wall Death
Back in September a woman fell to her death while climbing at a gym in Texas, and as speculated at the time it was due to improper use of the gym's auto belay equipment: In the rep...
The Bourbon Family Tree
If it happens in Kentucky then it's climbing related, right? Right ?
That One Time I Made A Semi Viral Climbing Video
The story behind that funny Reel Rock spoof you may have seen featuring a raccoon failing to ascend a feeder: I shared it a couple times on my Facebook profile and page as well as...
Educate For Access
Joe Kinder, on his time at the Educate For Access event held recently in New York: In some ways I am the wrong person to speak about this… I mean HELL, I thought I knew all the eti...
More On Alex Honnold's Skyscraper Climb
Me , back in July when it was announced that Alex Honnold would be soloing a building on live TV this fall 1 : Then again, Honnold has always struck me as being rather pragmatic an...
The Professionals
Justin Roth, writing on The Stone Mind : From what I’ve seen, however, the professional climber’s life is less glamorous than many imagine and more like the jobs that most of us wo...
White Noise Repeated By Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson has done the 4th ascent of Daniel Woods' White Noise (V15) in Wild Basin, RMNP, CO, commenting on his 8a scorecard : 2 days. 4th ascent. had some of the most perfect...
Can Climbers Think More Clearly About Ethics?
Peter Beal weighs in on Junipergate: I think Joe has received enough of a shellacking from everyone else and I consider him a friend so I am not going to deliver a sermon on why cu...
The Nose In A Day And Freerider In 3
Hazel Findlay, after doing her third free route on El Cap: Having freed three lines on El Cap now, with Freerider supposedly the easiest, I have to say that there really isn’t an e...
Ondra, Kim Win In Valence
Adam Ondra puts the rest of the World Cup circuit on notice: Valence in France: this was the stage chosen by Adam Ondra to celebrate his return to the Lead World Cup after three ye...
Daniel Woods Does His Hardest Boulder Yet
After doing the original earlier this year, Daniel Woods has done a low start to Dave Graham's The Ice Knife (Once V15, now seems to be V14) at Guanella Pass, CO to yield what he c...
Foundation's Edge
Dave Graham, writing for The Island about his FA of Foundation's Edge in Fionnay, Switzerland: It was an awesome climb. I battled it out, got super pumped, and didn't kill myself f...
Tommy Caldwell Injured, Off Dawn Wall Project
Tommy Caldwell, writing on The Facebook : Disaster strikes! Haul bag took a 200 plunge while clipped to the back of my harness. Hauling hook fail. It was a bit jarring. Looks like...
New Bloc Times
The bouldering in Australia's Grampians, and the sector Buandik in particular, has gotten wide attention the past couple of years as climbers like Nalle Hukkataival, Dave Graham, D...
Paul Robinson Repeats Jaws II
After having done five 5.14's including the only repeat of Dave Graham's 5.14+ Psychedelic , Paul Robinson took it up a notch with a repeat of Jaws II (5.15a) in Rumney, NH yesterd...
Three 5.14d's In One Day By...Guess Who
Adam Ondra is set to compete in the upcoming Lead World Cups in Valence, France and in Kranj, Slovenia , but before doing that he's made a stop in the Frankenjura where he's done t...
5.14c For Eva Lopez
Great to see this news about 42-year-old Eva Lopez repeating Potemkin , a 5.14c in Cuenca, Spain that she actually bolted but did not get the FA of.
Interview With Dorothea Karalus
Vertical Life catches up with Dorothea Karalus after her FA of In The Clouds (V12) in the Grampians: The boulder has two perfect and very obvious starting holds and follows a beaut...
Petzl Responds To Joe Kinder Situation
Petzl, one of Joe Kinder's sponsors, weighs in on Junipergate : But as actions speak louder than words, we're encouraged that in addition to paying a fine to the Forest Service, Jo...
Kinder Kind Of Climbers
In the nearly 1,000 posts about Junipergate on Supertopo I found at least one redeeming item in the form of this post on Wavehaven Adventures: If someone proclaims that they are th...
New V15 In Fionnay By Dave Graham
Dave Graham has succeeded in doing the FA of a long-time project of his in Fionnay, Switzerland that he's calling Foundation's Edge . Swiss granite rock has always suited Graham as...
Andrew Palmer Joins The 5.15 Club
DPM catches up with the relatively unknown Andrew Palmer after his repeat of Jaws II (5.15a) in Rumney, NH: I never really thought Jaws II was possible for me but it’s the next ind...
My Actions, My Responsibility, And My Mistake
Joe Kinder, writing on his blog about an incident that took place recently near Tahoe: To make a long story short, I was recently informed that I had done something wrong last mont...
Adam Ondra's Sabbatical
Nice interview with Adam Ondra reflecting on his 15 months as a full-time climber: No, I wasn’t tempted to . Because I know that if I didn’t have to be home to study, it would be h...
Seek And You Shall Find
Katie Lambert, writing on her blog about a summer spent climbing some of the hardest routes in one of my favorite places on Earth, Tuolumne: The exposure was surreal and it was sta...
Climbing Beyond Boehner's Reach
Freddie Wilkinson takes to the Op-Ed section of The New York Times to talk about how the government shutdown has affected the climbing scene in Yosemite: The most anticipated event...
V12 FA By Dorothea Karalus In The Grampians
Dorothea Karalus, writing on her blog about her FA of the stellar looking problem In The Clouds (V12) in the Grampians: On cloudy days attempts were usually thwarted by rain shower...
Ueli Steck And Annapurna
PlanetMountain once again with the news making interview , this time with Ueli Steck after his incredible solo of the South Face of Annapurna: Everything calmed down. Just like I'd...
Yosemite Post-Shutdown
Cheyne Lempe, in an interview with Climbing.com, on what it is like in Yosemite now that most everyone has been forced to leave due to the government being shutdown: This past week...
Making The Most Of A Bad Situation
Remember that one time that Chris Sharma was going to join Tommy Caldwell and crew for a season on Yosemite's Dawn Wall but couldn't because the government shut down and Yosemite w...
Wild Country Recall
Heads up if you own any Wild Country Rocks or Classic Rocks: For the safety of all of our customers we are issuing an immediate recall of certain batches of Wild Country Classic Ro...
More On Wide Boys' Cobra Crack Send
Really enjoyed this piece on The RV Project about the process behind Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker both repeating Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish, BC: Tom and Pete will be the firs...
Sisu Masters 2013 Live Stream
Last time I plugged the live streaming of a bouldering comp in Europe it didn't go very well , but let's try this again. On Saturday the Sisu Masters will stream live out of Helsin...
More On Ten Sleep Shooting
Climbing.com has a followup on the bizarre shooting that took place a few weeks ago in Ten Sleep, WY: "We know not everybody is a bad guy, and we've gotten a lot of strong support...
"High Fives And Redbull"
Andrew Bisharat : Everyone knows that Instagram serves no purpose other than a way to make your life seem much cooler than it actually is to all your friends and/or followers, the...
Government Shutdown Closes Climbing Areas Across the Country
The Access Fund has setup a page to make it easier for you to let Congress know how you feel about them shutting down the government and the National Parks we all pay for. The good...
Chris Sharma To Join Dawn Wall Team
So... this is happening (maybe...hopefully) : Chris Sharma will join Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, and Jonathan Siegrist for this fall's attempts on the Dawn Wall , a multi-year...
Productive Week In The Frankenjura For Gabri Moroni
Last week was a productive one for Italy's Gabri Moroni in the Frankenjura as he notched repeats of Sever The Wicked Hand (5.14d), The Elder Statesman (5.14d) and Classified (5.14d...
More 5.15s In Norway By Adam Ondra (Again)
It looks like Adam Ondra's season in Norway has come to an end, but not before he added two more 5.15s up there with the FAs of Hell Racer (5.15a) in Hell and Kangaroo's Limb (5.15...
Jens Monitor
This pretty much made my week.
Monte Carlo And The Quantification Of Effort
Interesting post by Jason Jordan about grades and how statistical modeling could be used to analyze something like the 8a.nu database to better understand how people quantify and p...
5.14 On Mt. Hooker
20 miles from the road, David Alfrey, Nik Berry and Mason Earle put up a free route on Wyoming's Mt. Hooker with difficulties up to 5.14a: "The rock is incredible for alpine stone,...
Bel Succcesso
Final update from Dave MacLeod on his and Alan Cassidy's attempts to climb Bellavista in the Italian Dolomites: However, we had one day left. I just wanted to get the gear back and...
Taming The Cobra
Nice piece by Brits Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker about their successful ascents of Sonnie Trotter's Cobra Crack (5.14-) in Squamish, BC: So where does this leave us, three weeks...
Sender Films' Reel Rock 8: Peaks Behind The Screens
Great in depth piece in Boulder Weekly about Sender Films, Big Up Productions and the Reel Rock Film Tour which kicks off its 8th edition on September 19th. Tons of great nuggets a...
Save Oak Flat
Shit: There is a vote scheduled for this Thursday, September 19th in the US House of Representatives on legislation that would trade away the popular Oak Flat climbing area in Ariz...
Climber Shot In Ten Sleep
While the good news I shared this morning from Ten Sleep is still great news, this is not great news out of Ten Sleep : Around 2:00 a.m. on Monday, September 16, a climber from Ecu...
El Cap Report Returns For Fall 2013 Season
It's baaaaack : So take a break Cupcakes, Cubicle Pukes, Internet Climbers, and get ready for today’s report … ditch the kids, the spouse, the pets… because this is your time to he...
Bellavista
Bellavista , Alex Huber's route with difficulties up to 5.14b on the north face of Cima Ovest in the Italian Dolomites, got a lot of press earlier this summer when Sasha DiGiulian...
Behind The Founding Of The Bighorn Climber's Coalition
Nice piece on DPM about an important step being taken to form a climber's coalition for the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming which are home to the increasingly popular Ten Sleep Canyon...
Why Do Women Cry At The Crag?
Paige Claassen : Over the last few months, I’ve found myself sitting at the base of a project, crying, more and more often. Crying over a rock climb is the worst. The actual crying...
Man And Superman
Malcolm Gladwell, writing for The New Yorker : What we are watching when we watch élite sports, then, is a contest among wildly disparate groups of people, who approach the startin...
Maybe Alex Megos Is Human After All?
In many ways German phenom Alex Megos seems like a robot sent from another planet to climb all our hardest routes and boulder problems without making much of a fuss about it, but t...
A Summer In Africa
Nice recap with pictures by the UK's Mina Leslie-Wujastyk of her six week trip to Rocklands which saw her climb 8 V11s and 1 V12, but not that V12: One sad thing was the closure of...
More 5.14s In Idaho From Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegriest has wrapped up a successful trip to the Fins in southeast Idaho, adding a few new 5.14s to what is becoming a pretty fully developed wall for hard face climbing:...
Wrestling Voted Back Into Olympics
In news that is about as surprising as the fact that Apple will announce a new iPhone later today, wrestling has been voted back into the Olympics : The International Olympic Commi...
Ondra, Markovic Win Arco Rock Legends 2013
Congrats to Adam Ondra and Mina Markovic who were awarded the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award at this past weekend's Arco Rock Legends ceremony in Arco, Ita...
New 5.14 By Sonnie Trotter
Always nice to see Sonnie Trotter in the news : Sonnie Trotter has just completed his summer project, Castles in the Sky , on Castle Mountain in the Canadian Rockies. The bolted ro...
On The Anniversary Of The Death Of Wolfgang Güllich
Interesting look back on Wolfgang Güllich who died in a car accident on August 29, 1992: Apart from Ben Moon’s Hubble – which, though graded 8c+/34 Wolfgang always thought of as a...
European Bouldering Championship: Fischhuber And Stöhr Win In Eindhoven
How unsurprising : On Sunday night at Eindhoven (The Netherlands) the Austrians Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber won the European Bouldering Championship 2013. If you didn't catch...
Chris Sharma Conquers La Dura Dura
Interesting piece by Andrew Bisharat for Prana looking at Chris Sharma's journey to climb La Dura Dura (5.15c): Some five years ago, La Dura Dura didn’t exist other than as a simpl...
Being Alex Megos
Nice interview with Alex Megos by Nick Fletcher: Watching Alex climb is like watching an elite athlete running or swimming (for example). There’s no discernible effort – yet you kn...
Annual Hound Ears Comp Cancelled
Bad news for fans of the annual bouldering comp that has taken place for 19 years at Hound Ears in North Carolina: For 19 years, the Hound Ears Club has graciously allowed one of t...
12-Year-Old Ashima Shiraishi Repeats The Automator (V13)
As usual these days, if it doesn't happen on Instagram it didn't happen. The it in this case is 12-year-old Ashima Shiraishi making a quick 2 day repeat of The Automator (V13) in R...
Manslaughter Charges Filed In Tito Traversa Accident
DPM does some rough translation work on this article , published in an Italian newspaper, which indicates that five people have apparently been served with manslaughter charges in...
Footage Of Adam Ondra's FA Of Move
Do not adjust your computer. This is just how fast Adam Ondra climbs these days. On a related note: could anyone else make something like the bottom part of Move look so easy yet h...
Caldwell, Mills Climb First 5.14 On The Diamond
Impressive: Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills have redpointed the first 5.14 route up the Diamond on Longs Peak, the premier granite wall in Colorado's high mountains. The two free-clim...
Yet Another 5.15 In Flatanger For Adam Ondra
Once again Adam Ondra has established a route in the mid-5.15 range in the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway, this time with the route he's calling Move . Here's how he descri...
Mario Richard Dies In BASE Jump Accident
Sad news: Mario Richard, husband of rock climber Steph Davis, died August 18 while wingsuit flying in Italy's Dolomites. Mrs. Narc and I have a small connection to Steph having met...
Between Rocklands And A Hard Place
Why??? Discarded climbing tape and litter are an everyday find at the climbing areas; faeces and toilet paper are hidden in caves and under rocks; and huge tick lines and graffiti...
First 5.14d In Australia By Alex Megos
Great report with pictures from Simon Carter detailing how visiting climber Alex Megos ushered in Australia's first 5.14d with his FA of Retired Extremely Dangerous in the Blue Mou...
New V14 In Chaos Canyon By Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods' "boner arms" seem to have recovered quite well after his 2nd place finish at the Psicobloc Masters Series as he established a new V14 in the far reaches of Chaos Cany...
Kids Rule In Magic Wood
27 Crags has a nice recap of what the kids have been up to in Magic Wood, Switzerland over the past few weeks with the highlight being a repeat of One Summer In Paradise (V13) by 1...
A Climbing Chat With The Ladies
Jen Vennon, writing for her sponsor Prana's blog : Over the years I’ve kept a mental list of advice or suggestions I’d give to a girl new to the climbing world. As someone who is n...
FFA Of Bellavista (5.14b) By Sasha DiGiuilian
According to this post on her Instagram account, Sasaha DiGiulian has teamed up with Edu Marin to repeat Alex Huber's multi-pitch route Bellavista in the Italian Dolomites: After c...
Why Are So Many Climbers Not Wearing Helmets?
Long piece from the August issue of Climbing about why so few climbers wear helmets: When it comes to helmets and climbers, inconsistency is everywhere. Most ice climbers and mount...
The Almighty
Jonathan Siegrist writes about his experience repeating a mixed route called The Almight y (5.14a) in Teton Canyon, WY that was first done by local Ty Mack in 2011 : This is one of...
Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2013 Climbing Report
Nice recap over at Splitter Choss of the latest and greatest in climbing gear that was unveiled at last week's Outdoor Retailer Trade Show. The Millet Opposite rope looks interesti...
Two V13s In Rocklands By Anna Stöhr
Impressive trip to Rocklands for Anna Stöhr as she repeats The Power Of One (V13) and The Vice (V13): Once again, Anna has broken through the glass ceiling and set a new precedent...
Another 5.15 In Flatanger For Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra continues to use the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway as his personal 5.15 playground, this time with the FA of Iron Curtain (5.15b). Lest you think 5.15b has beco...
DiGiulian, Webb Win Inaugural Pisobloc Masters Series Event
Climbing has the report from the inaugural Psicobloc Masters Series event held Friday night that saw Sasha DiGiulian and Jimmy Webb both walk away ,000 richer for besting the compe...
Reflecting On The Wheel
Interesting piece on Vertical Life about The Wheel Of Life , one of the most repeated hard boulder problems in the world: It wasn’t that long ago – sometime after Fred Nicole’s asc...
Daniel Woods Repeats The Wheel Of Life
Daniel Woods has done the 9th ascent of Dai Koyamada's The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia. On his 8a scorecard he suggests a route grade of 5...
Summer Is A Finite Resource
Semi-rad, last week : Now is the time to bail out of work at 4 p.m., or 3 p.m., and head to your favorite crag, trail, or hill climb. Or get up at 5 a.m. and do something fun befor...
The Circuit Interviews Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods sits down with The Circuit for an interview while he is in Australia: So it’s just funny to see this stagnant plateau that we’re sitting at right now. There’s honestly...
Alex Honnold To Climb Building On Live TV
So, this is happening : The two-hour fall event, Live Climb With Alex Honnold , will feature the 27-year-old as he attempts to be the first to scale one of the tallest buildings in...
The World According To Kai
Nice piece from the latest issue of DPM about 13-year-old Kai Lightner: How then, did a young black child from the flatlands of North Carolina come to find his passion in a sport l...
Honnold, Wright Enchain California 14ers by Bike, Foot, And Free Solo
I'm not sure what's crazier, free soloing something like Half Dome or climbing 15 14ers in California in three weeks without using a car: Over three weeks and one day, Alex Honnold...
If You're Not An Access Fund Member, What Are You?
Louder Than 11's Jordan Shipman : The sad truth, however, is that less than 1% of the climbing community are members of the Access Fund. There are millions of climbers out there in...
Sunshine, Ice Cream And BBQ's With Friends
Shauna Coxsey recaps her visit to Colorado which was highlighted by her ascent of Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13): I had never really understood how people can become so transfixed by o...
DiGiulian's Rolihlahla Repeated By Paige Claassen Among Others
It's been a busy week for Sasha DiGiuliuan's new route Rolihlahla at South Africa's Waterval Boven, as it has seen repeats from Arjan de Kock, Andrew Pedley and now Paige Claassen....
Athlete Listing For Upcoming Psicobloc Masters Series Event
The organizers of the Psicobloc Masters Series event coming up in two weeks continue to rub salt in the wound that is my inability to attend the event or even watch the live broadc...
Jonathan Siegrist Repeats Moonshine (5.14d)
Jonathan Siegrist, writing on his blog about his 4th ascent of BJ Tilden's finger tendon nightmare Moonshine (5.14d) at the Wild Iris: In the end it was this rad community that got...
The Disposable Man
Interesting piece on Outside Online about the plight of Sherpas working in the Everest region: A Sherpa working above Base Camp on Everest is nearly ten times more likely to die th...
Interview With Adam Ondra After His 5.14d Onsight
I don't know how you warm up for your 5.14d onsights, but this is what Adam Ondra did : Well, I tried a route which I thought was 8a and fell off at about half-height. But I wasn't...
Chris Sharma In His Birthday Suit
If you've always wondered what Chris Sharma might look like if he was hiking your project in the nude, your wait is over. Sharma and girlfriend Daila Ojeda were featured in the 201...
5.14d Onsight By Adam Ondra
Kairn.com reports in French that Adam Ondra has done his long-awaited 5.14d onsight with his first go send of La cabane au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland. Long expected to be the fir...
Alex Megos Repeats Wheel Of Life
In what should be surprising news to no one at this point, Alex Megos has made quick work of Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians: Though he hasn’t been here...
Tito Traversa Killed In Fall
Just a day or two after climbing another 5.14a, 12-year-old Tito Traversa was seriously injured in a sport climbing accident at Orpierre, France. This report in French by Grimper s...
"It Felt Surprisingly Easy"
Jimmy Webb, in an interview DPM about his flash of Sky : It felt surprisingly easy. Yet that's how most flashes at your limit should feel. It's that wild moment where everything co...
Context On Nanga Parbat Massacre
Steve Swenson gives some fascinating context surrounding the massacre at Nanga Parbat's basecamp the other weekend: I've been on eleven climbing expeditions to Pakistan. Although t...
Rescue On Leaning Tower
Since there was a fair bit of bad news from Yosemite this season it's nice to see this bonus El Cap Report detail the successful rescue of a climber off of the Leaning Tower: It st...
Lead Now Tour
Best of luck to Paige Claassen and Jon Glassberg as they get underway with their ambitious effort to raise $120,000 for charity as part of their 12 month tour around the world : Le...
Missing Urban Climber
Peter Beal : There, I said it. I miss Urban Climber. It's been about a year since that much-maligned magazine was put to sleep and I hate to say it, but I wish it was back, or at l...
Gunmen Kill Climbers In Northern Pakistan
Terrible news out of Pakistan : In one of the most brazen attacks on foreigners in the country in recent years, militants killed nine tourists and one Pakistani on a mountaineering...
Please Continue Instagramming Your Amazing Life
Semi-rad: Please share photos of your new baby, recent trip, day hike, birthday cake, rock climb, sunrise, cute dog, dirty feet, amazing meal, inspiration, and happy moments. I wil...
What Happened To Climbing Films
Chris Parker, writing in this week's TNB for Rock & Ice : Excuse the extended metaphor, but five-minute Internet videos or short films packaged and viewable only in a film festival...
2nd Ascent Of La Force Tranquille (V15) By Nalle Hukkataival
Nalle Hukkataival is on a roll : Just climbed La Force Tranquille V15 in Magic Wood!! Had a devastating fall from the easy top slab because a hold broke, but managed to pull it tog...
The Understanding
Nalle Hukkataival, writing on his blog about a problem called The Understanding that he just opened in Magic Wood, Switzerland: This beautiful project caught my eye the very first...
Mapping Yosemite's Granite
Fascinating study being done by Roger Putnam on the different types of granite that make up the most famous granite formation in the world: To get a more complete and detailed pict...
"Well, we didn't"
Emily Harrington with a very honest look back on a trip she took to Morocco to climb with Hazel Findlay for the 2013 Reel Rock Film Tour: I had never climbed a big wall like that b...
New Blog Post And V14 Repeat For Dave Graham
Dave Graham, writing for sponsor Five Ten : Life has some pretty crazy twists and turns in the last couple months. This time around the story starts with my epic skiing accident th...
DPM Issue 24
After the initial excitement of being free wore off, my interest in reading Deadpoint Magazine has waned a bit. I wasn't really enjoying the articles and the interface for the onli...
New Free Route On Liberty Cap
Since I've only been posting bad news out of Yosemite, it seems like now would be a good time to post about something good like this new free route on Liberty Cap established by Lu...
More On Muir Wall Accident
Chris Van Leuven, in an excellent account of the accident that killed Mason Robinson on El Cap's Muir Wall a few weeks ago: Mason Robinson attended Columbia Falls High School and w...
Deep Water Soloing Comp Coming To Summer OR Show
This is pretty exciting: Capping off Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2013, the Psicobloc Masters Series - the first deep water soloing competition ever held in the U.S. - will be he...
5.14+ FA By Steve McClure
42-year-old Steve McClure is still getting it done over in the UK, this time by making a new link-up in the 5.14d/5.15a-range at Malham called Batman : Not so important for me to p...
Another Death On El Capitan
More bad news from the flanks of El Capitan: A twenty eight year old climber died in a rock climbing accident on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park yesterday afternoon, Sunday, J...
Climbers Buying Up More Land In Kentucky
Big news for climbers visiting the Red River Gorge in Kentucky: The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) and Access Fund are thrilled to announce the acquisition of 309 acre...
Climbing Will Not Be In 2020 Olympics
Disappointing, but not surprising news for people excited about seeing climbing included in the 2020 Olympics in Buenos Aires : The Executive Board (EB) of the International Olympi...
Favresse Frees Hard Crack Project In Norway
Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse has done the FA of The Recovery Drink in Jossingfjord, Norway, calling it his hardest crack climb yet 1 : I sent the pitch placing gear on lead exc...
10th New River Rendezvous
Nice report over at DPM from the 10th New River Rendezvous : What once started as a grassroots gathering of core climbers has grown over the past decade into one of the most well-e...
Tragic Death On El Capitan
Tragic news from high on El Cap this past Sunday : An experienced climber, Mason Robison was leading the 27th pitch of the 3,000-foot granite wall at about 9 a.m., when a large roc...
Woods & Robinson Do First Repeats Of Graham's The Ice Knife (V15)
Beau Kahler was on the scene in Guanella Pass, CO yesterday as Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson did the 2nd and 3rd ascents respectively of Dave Graham's The Ice Knife (V15) . Graham...
NPS Authorizes Fixed Anchors In Wilderness
Big news from the Access Fund: After decades of work, the Access Fund received notice yesterday from National Park Service (NPS) that the agency has issued final national policy au...
Sean McColl's First Bouldering World Cup Victory
Sean McColl, writing about how it felt to win his first bouldering World Cup over the weekend in Log Dragomer, Slovenia : In my head I was saying “you won one, you did it”. At the...
3rd Ascent Of Corona (5.15a) By Alex Megos
Alex Megos has done the 3rd ascent of Markus Bock's Corona (5.15a) in Germany's Frankenjura according to Frankenjura.com (in German). Megos needed about 10 tries to climb the 60 ft...
Climbing Banned At Castle Rocks, ID
More bad access news, this time from Idaho : On April 17, 2013, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in Idaho announced that all rock climbing activity will be banned on its 400-acr...
5.14 Trad Ascent By James Pearson
A few weeks old, but this a nice report by James Pearson about his efforts to do the 2nd ascent of an old 5.14 sport route in La Balma, Switzerland called A Denti Tretti on natural...
Arizona Climber Killed By Bee Stings
Sad news the other week out of Arizona : A climber’s body was found covered in bee stings and hanging off a southern Arizona cliff on Monday. His faithful dog was lying dead on top...
Ammagamma Sessions
Keith Bradbury, who is perhaps best known for his work on films 85 Days in Font and Between The Trees , is back in the climbing game after a long break. This also means he's back i...
Another 5.14c Onsight By Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra notches 5.14c onsight #15 if you're scoring at home. I'm starting to think this kid has a bright future in this here climbing game.
Daniel Woods Repeating Bridge Of Ashes (V15)
It's going to take a while for me to get that song out of my head . Also, some words from Woods on the process of sending this problem in one day can be read here : This was the fi...
Unfinished Business
Steve Bechtel, writing about a first ascent that was done in Wyoming recently: When Micah first walked up to the climb last year, the face had already been bolted. There were ancho...
Climbing Banned On Basalt Columns In Armenia
Bad news for anyone psyched about making the trip to Armenia to climb on the incredibly unique looking basalt columns that were on the cover of Rock & Ice a few years back: By this...
Underwhelmed
Jonathan Siegrist, writing about the end of his time in Las Vegas for the season as well as a brief visit he made to the much-hyped limestone in Ely, NV: To be downright honest I w...
Crux Crush Interviews Colette McInerney
Crux Crush , one of the better new climbing sites to crop up of late, has a nice interview with Colette McInerney who recently climbed her first 5.14a in Oliana with a repeat of Ch...
Returning To The Sport That Almost Killed Her
Amazing story of recovery by Rannevig Aamodt who was badly injured when she took a ground fall while sport climbing in Turkey about a year ago: Twelve months have passed since I hi...
5.15a FA By Alex Megos In The Frankenjura
Alex Megos makes his first First Ascent count with his recent FA of Classified in Germany's Frankenjura : The new route, a ~20m fiesta of small shallow pockets followed by even sma...
Midnight Lightning's Lightning Bolt Gets Chopped
James Lucas, writing about why he removed the iconic chalk lightning bolt outline from beneath Midnight Lightning in Yosemite: Over thirty years, with every passing ascent, the lig...
No Big Deal
Alex Honnold, writing for La Sportiva about his solo of three walls in Zion in a day back in March: I could write several different essays about the day; it’s given me a ton to thi...
FFA Of Chemical Ali (5.14a) By Kristin Yurdin
Nice write-up by DPM about 42-year-old Smith Rock local Kristin Yurdin climbing her first 5.14a with a repeat of Chemical Ali : Ian describes a crucial part of Kristin's training p...
Tributes To Layton Kor
Nice collection of tributes to Layton Kor over at Climbing.com , including this one from Steve Komito: My clearest memories of these adventures include the feeling of sand in my ea...
Layton Kor Dead At Age 74
Layton Kor, one of the most prolific and accomplished American climbers of the 1960s, has died at age 74. Kor had suffered from kidney failure and prostate cancer. A resident of Ki...
Andrea Hah Repeats Punks In The Gym (5.14a)
It's been a busy time for notable repeats of historically significant 5.14a's, what with Paige Claassen and Drew Ruana repeating America's first 5.14a To Bolt Or Not To Be and now...
5.14c Onsight By Magnus Midtbø In Rodellar
Nice write-up with pictures from Henning Wang by Magnus Midtbø about his onsight of Cosi fan tutti (5.14c) in Rodellar, Spain: It was a very satisfying feeling to for once win a de...
To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) By 13-Year-Old Drew Ruana
13-Year-Old Drew Ruana notches his 5th 5.14a with a repeat of To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock, OR: Although the grade is the same, what Drew just did is a huge step up i...
5.14c FA By Dan Mirsky At The Cathedral
DPM interviews Dan Mirsky after he did the FA of Solid Gold , a proposed 5.14c in Utah's Cathedral: So basically, Solid Gold is the most straight up way to climb the main awesome c...
V14 FA In Switzerland By Jimmy Webb
Jimmy Webb closed out his Swiss trip in fine style by doing the FA of La Rustica , a potential V14 in Valle Bavona: One of the coolest projects i've ever climbed. Big thanks to Car...
2nd Ascent Of The Insurgency (V14) By Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson had a nice trip to Joe's Valley last week, repeating a couple of V13s and doing the 2nd ascent of James Litz's The Insurgency (V14).
Bügeleisen
Nalle Hukkataival, blogging about his repeat of a V14 in Maltatal called Bügeleisen which was first done in 2001 by Klem Loskot : Bügeleisen really is one of the BEST hard boulders...
V13 Flash In Font By James Kassay
Aussie James Kassay has flashed Dave Graham's Sideways Daze (V13) in Fontainebleau, France. This is the 2nd V13 (or harder) flash in the forest after Adam Ondra flashed Gecko Assis...
First 5.14s By 13-Year-Old Kai Lightner
13-year-old Kai Lightner has been on a tear the past month or so, climbing his first 5. 14s including Proper Soul in the New River Gorge (5.14a) and Transworld Depravity (5.14a) an...
Super Unknown
Really nice TNB this week over at Rock & Ice about a 5.14d in central Texas Nick Duttle got the 2nd ascent of that was first done by a guy you almost certainly have never heard of.
La Rambla (5.15a) 2nd Go By Alex Megos
Who is Alex Megos, and where did he come from? Not long after his onsight of Estado critico (5.14d) , Alex Megos continued his good form by redpointing La Rambla (5.15a) in just tw...
Paige Claassen Repeats To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)
Paige Claassen, writing on her blog , after she achieved a longtime goal of repeating To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock, OR: This past weekend, I climbed the only route th...
Alex Megos' Three Try Limit
Alex Megos, in an email to sponsor DMM, with some details on his onsight of Estado crítico (5.14d) : In that moment I didn’t think about having done something really outstanding. B...
Chris Sharma Interviewed About La Dura Dura
Chris Sharma, in an interview with PlanetMountain , talking about his repeat of La Dura Dura (5.15c) : I must have spent a whole year trying the lower section, those 15 moves. Doin...
The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) Repeated By Carlo Traversi
The hits just keep coming for Carlo Traversi as he has done the 5th 1 ascent of Dave Graham's The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland. This send comes shortly after...
Jeremy Zachariash On Going From 0 To 5.14 In Just A Few Years
DPM catches up with Jeremy Zachariash who progressed from not climbing to sending 5.14 in just four years: My weaknesses are ice cream, sugar cookies with buttercream frosting, cin...
Esperanza (V14) Repeated By Nalle Hukkataival
Nalle Hukkataival has repeated Fred Nicole's Esperanza (V14) in Hueco Tanks, making him at least the 16th person to do so. Commenting about the problem on his 27crags ticklist he s...
Midnight Express (V14) Repeated By Phil Schaal
Phil Schaal has done the 8th ascent 1 of Midnight Express , a V14 in Colorado's Boulder Canyon established by Ty Landman in 2007 . See footage of Schaal's repeat, starting as Landm...
"Why On Earth Don't I Live Here?"
Writing for Five Ten about his recent time spent in Kentucky's Red River Gorge 1 , Dave Graham unleashes another classic entry for the internet to enjoy: I will admit, as this is m...
Successful Trip To The Red River Gorge For Jorg Verhoeven
Jorg Verhoeven reports on his blog that he had a pretty successful trip to the Red River Gorge with repeats of Pure Imagination (5.14d), Fifty Words For Pump (5.14c) and Southern S...
Caldwell's Dawn Wall Push Over...For Now
In an update on his Facebook page yesterday Tommy Caldwell indicated that he's given up the hope of completing his Dawn Wall project in a single push, instead opting to go down to...
Chelsea Rude Reports On 5.14a Ascent In Rodellar
On her new blog Chelsea Rude has a nice report from her recent trip to Rodellar, Spain where she did her first 5.14 and came close to sending a 2nd before having to return home.
Southern Smoke (5.14c) Repeated By Dylan Barks
According to his 8a scorecard 16-year old Dylan Barks from Ann Arbor, MI has done Joe Kinder's Southern Smoke (5.14c) in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. This was Barks' second route 5....
"I'm An Equal Opportunity Sheriff"
I'm a big fan of the interviews done on Boulder's ClimbTalk Radio and thanks to the hard work of Dave McAllister we can all peruse transcripts of the shows. The latest interview to...
Tommy Caldwell Explains His New Approach To Sharing Dawn Wall Updates
Tommy Caldwell has freed the first 11 pitches of his Dawn Wall project and is now working on pitch 12. Of course, you already knew this if you've been following the updates and pic...
5.14b FA At Smith By Ryan Palo
Ryan Palo reports on his blog about Sure Shot (5.14b), a FA he did last weekend at Smith Rock that takes Pierre Bollinger's Shoot'm Up (5.14b) to a more difficult finish.
5.14 Trad By Yuji Hirayama During Visit To Italy
PlanetMountain has a report from Yuji Hirayama about a recent visit to Italy that included a second try ascent of the trad line Greenspit (5.14-).
5.14b In Rifle By Emily Harrington
The historic season of sending in Rifle continues as Climbing reports that Emily Harrington repeated Joe Kinder's Waka Flocka (5.14b), her first of the grade in Rifle. Update - Mor...
The Key To Being World Cup Champion?
With Austrian climbers winning the recent sport climbing World Cup in Boulder as well as the overall Boulder World Cup title , you might be wondering what their secret to success i...
Dawn Wall 2011
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson returned to Yosemite late last month to resume work on their Dawn Wall project . Unfortunately, Kevin has been sidelined, at least temporarily, by...
Alex Honnold: "I hardly ever do anything badass"
Alex Honnold has been getting a lot of attention lately, likely related to that TV show you might have seen him on . This recent interview he did with Trails Edge has several inter...
New V14 In Finland By Nalle Hukkataival
Fresh off a trip to Font , Nalle Hukkataival returned to a project in his native Finland that he was finally able to dispatch after a prolonged effort : It’s a great problem on bul...
Ramon Julian Onsights 5.14c In Rifle
After a disappointing finish in the World Cup in Boulder , Ramon Julian Puigblanque made the drive west to Rifle for a short trip and things went just a little better for him there...
The Not Worth It Boulders
While the discovery and development of new boulders in Wyoming and elsewhere has gotten a lot of attention of late, it's instructive to remember that many times the quest for new r...
Another Repeat Of The Wheel Of Life
According to his 8a scorecard Australia's Ben Cossey has repeated Dai Koyamada's The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia. Cossey registered the as...
2nd Ascent Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c)
Adam Taylor has done the likely 2nd ascent of Jonathan Siegrist's Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. While generally preferring to live life under the online...
5.14 Trad FA By Pete Kamitses
Climberism reports that Pete Kamitses has done the FA of Oppositional Defiance Disorder , a traditionally protected 5.14 in New York's Adirondacks. Climbing.com caught up with Kami...
2011 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell
Last weekend 250 crazy people climbers spent 24 straight hours clipping bolts at Arkansas' Horseshoe Canyon Ranch for the aptly named 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell . Nate Drolet and B...
Ben Spannuth Repeats Era Bella (5.14d)
Looking at Ben Spannuth's 8a scorecard we can see that he's had a nice trip to Spain climbing several 5.14s and just recently repeating Chris Sharma's Era Bella (5.14d) in Margalef...
Thomas Willenberg
UKC interviews Thomas Willenberg who has climbed multiple V15s but is relatively unknown these days: In the last decade both climbing and bouldering have changed significantly. At...
Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Joe Kinder
After getting a lot of love from first ascensionist Matty Hong and second ascensionist Jonathan Siegrist , it's only fitting that only a short time after returning to the States fr...
PlanetMountain Interviews Petit About Black Bean Ascent
PlanetMountain interviews Arnaud Petit about his ascent of the 5.13d sport route Black Bean on trad gear , touching on his motivations for doing so and whether or not he considered...
El Cap Report Returns...Again
After a brief retirement , the El Cap Report is back for the fall season ! Yo… Yep the Report is back!!! Friends of YOSAR have agreed to let me use their internet connection, which...
Multiple Hard Sends By Ashima Shiraishi In Kentucky
27Crags interviews Ashima Shiraishi after her first trip to Kentucky's Red River Gorge which yielded repeats of multiple 5. 13s including the 5.13d Swingline . Already somewhat wel...
The Other Side Of Life As Alex Honnold
Adventure Journal catches up with Alex Honnold to discuss the fact that although he may be one of the world's best climbers, his lifestyle and diet are not exactly glamorous: I hav...
Nick Duttle Repeats Alpine 5.14
DPM reports on Nick Duttle doing the 4th ascent of Tommy Caldwell's Sarchasm (5.14) located high in RMNP, CO on the Ship's Prow near Longs Peak: After breaking a few holds during h...
Hard New Route At "Next Level Something" Crag By Jorg Verhoeven
Jorg Verhoeven blogs about his recent efforts in the amazing cave in Flatanger, Norway that yielded a potential 5. 14d called Nordic Flower with room for much, much more: I must sa...
Wheel Of Life Repeated By James Kassay
About two years after he climbed the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Sleepy Rave , James Kassay managed to send the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Wheel Of Life which adds a V...
Lucifer (5.14c) Repeated (Again) By Adam Taylor
In a post summarizing what sounded like a pretty miserable Labor Day weekend weather-wise at the Red River Gorge, the folks at the Team Saucisson blog casually dropped the fact tha...
Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jonathan Siegrist
Not long after its FA by Matty Hong , Jonathan Siegrist has, according to my spies, done the 2nd ascent of Bad Girls Club (5.14d) in Rifle, CO. More details to come, I'm sure, on S...
Shawn Raboutou Climbs 5.14b At Age 13
13 year-old Shawn Raboutou sends his fisrt 5.14
More On Adam Ondra's Trip To Rocklands
Adam Ondra has wrapped up his trip to Rocklands, South Africa, and in addition to the earlier repeats he added flashes of Leopard Cave (V12) and the likely 3rd ascent of Fred Nicol...
Bouldering World Cup Champs Fischhuber & Stöhr To Appear On ClimbTalk Radio
On Friday, September 2 reigning World Cup Bouldering champs Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr will be live in studio for Boulder, Colorado's ClimbTalk radio show. Other guests sched...
New V13s In Australia By Hukkataival & Graham
Nalle Hukkataival checks in from Australia with news of a handful of new problems done in the V11-V13 range by himself and Dave Graham. So, are they almost out of things to do? In...
2011 Youth World Championships
Semi-finals and Finals of the 2011 Youth World Championships (of sport climbing) take place tomorrow (Saturday, August 26th) in Imst, Austria. Watch live beginning at 10:00 AM loca...
Joe Kinder On Bad Girls Club FA & Life In South Africa
In the most recent update from his amazing trip around Europe and South Africa Joe Kinder takes a minute to comment on Matty Hong's recent FA of a route Kinder equipped in Rifle: T...
5.14d In Oliana For Chris Sharma
Daila Ojeda mentions on her Spanish blog that before coming to the U.S. for the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show in Salt Lake City, UT and his annual Yo Basecamp in Bishop, CA boyfriend...
Potential 5.14d FA In Rifle By Matty Hong
Rock & Ice has the details on Matty Hong doing the FA of a route Joe Kinder bolted and left as an open project last summer in Rifle, CO called Bad Girls Club : What makes Bad Girls...
5.14d Birthday Present For Charlotte Durif
Literally as she was turning 21 years of age France's Charlotte Durif redpointed PPP (5.14d) at Grotte de Galetas in France's Verdon Gorge according to a posting on her website . F...
New 5.13+ Multipitch By Trotter & Caldwell In Canada
Sonnie Trotter and Tommy Caldwell have teamed up to establish a 15 pitch route up the Diamond Face on Mount Louis in the Canadian Rockies. Dubbed The Shining , the route has 7 pitc...
Honnold Repeats Cobra Crack
Via his 8a.nu scorecard comes word that Alex Honnold has repeated the 5.14 trad route Cobra Crack in Squamish, BC. First done in the summer of 2006 by Sonnie Trotter , Cobra Crack...
First 5.14 For The Other Alex Johnson
According to his Facebook Page Alex "Socks" Johnson has done his first 5.14 with a send of Welcome To Tijuana (5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain.
Productive Day At Maple Canyon For Sasha DiGiulian
Playing hooky from the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show going on in Salt Lake City for a day Sasha DiGiulian made the trip down to the cobbled overhangs of Maple Canyon where, according...
Clear Blue Skies Repeated By Flannery Shay-Nemirow
According to her 8a scorecard 19 year-old Flannery Shay-Nemirow has repeated the maybe it's V11, maybe it's V12 crimper problem Clear Blue Skies at Mt. Evans, CO. This is her 12th...
Pair Of 5.14d Repeats In Margalef For Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra checks in with his 8a scorecard to report that he sent two Chris Sharma 5.14d's in Margalef, Spain in Gancho Perfecto and Era Bella, with the latter going down 2nd try....
Ethan Pringle Repeats Sky (V14)
With his time in Rocklands coming to an end Ethan Pringle nabbed a repeat of Daniel Woods' Sky (V14) last week. Check out some footage of the send by clicking here . Pringle has a...
Difficult Wyoming Crack Climb Sees 2nd Ascent
Black Diamond has a nice report with pictures from Andrew Burr about J.P "Pee Wee" Oullete's 2nd ascent of Home On The Range , a difficult crack in Vedauwoo, WY first climbed by Ju...
American Youth Climbing Well
DPM seems to have the youth beat covered pretty well these days with stories about 14 year-old Stefan Lavender climbing 5.14a in Ten Sleep , the Raboutou kids (and parents) climbin...
Tim Kemple Explores When Being "Inspired" Goes Too Far
Tim Kemple explores when being "inspired" goes too far : We’ve all heard the saying that ‘imitation is the sincerest sign of flattery’. But a question that keeps coming more freque...
DPM Interviews Nick Duttle
DPM has a nice interview with Nick Duttle detailing his background and how health challenges haven't stopped him from climbing 5.14 and V14. There's also this nice video of him cli...
Hard Multipitch In Switzerland By Nina Caprez
Nina Caprez reports here here and here that she did the first female ascent of the 240m route Silbergeier (difficulties up to 5.13d/5.14a) in Rätikon, Switzerland. PlanetMountain i...
Urban Climber's Adam Ondra Interview
Urban Climber has posted the big feature interview they did for a recent issue with Adam Ondra . A lot of interesting tidbits throughout so definitely check this one out if you can...
Possible 5.15a FA By Enzo Oddo
16 year-old Enzo Oddo blogs (in French) about his FA of La moustache qui fâche (5.15a) in Entraygues, France. Oddo has now done 3 5.15s including this really famous one .
Phil Schaal Climbing Well In Rocklands
27Crags reports that Phil Schaal is down in South Africa where he's managed to send many of the well-known classics including a flash of Green Mamba (V12) and a send of Fred Nicole...
Alex Honnold On His Solo Of The Phoenix
A few weeks back Alex Honnold, who was in the Valley for a shoot with 60 Minutes , soloed the iconic route The Phoenix (5.13a) in Yosemite, CA. Planetmountain caught up with both H...
Videos From Adam Ondra's Trip To The UK
To go along with today's Video Friday post is this excellent recap of Adam Ondra's trip to the UK which includes footage of him sending Overshadow (5.15a) and onsighting Bat Route...
More From Webb & Voges At Mt. Evans
Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges continue to get things done at Mt. Evans according to their respective scorecards with Webb repeating Dave Graham's Big Worm (V14) at Area A and Voges re...
Siegrist Just Does It
Jonathan Siegrist tweeted yesterday that he has done J. B. Tribout's Just Do It (5.14b or c) in Smith Rock, OR. Look for further updates on his excellent blog .
Nick Duttle Getting It Done Out East
Nick Duttle has been keeping busy this spring splitting his time between Kentucky's Red River Gorge and West Virginia's New River Gorge. Peeking at his scorecard we can see that si...
News From Lincoln Lake
The 2011 season is on at Mt. Evans' Lincoln Lake and to start things off Jimmy Webb has done the 3rd ascent of Dave Graham's We Can Build You (V14) . He and Brion Voges also made q...
Ryan Palo Nabs 2nd Ascent Of Shoot'm Up (5.14b) In Smith Rock
Ryan Palo has done the 2nd ascent of Pierre Bollinger's Shoot'm Up (5.14b) in Smith Rock, OR . Writing on his blog about the ascent Palo offers some excellent advice about sticking...
Full FFA Of Hallucinogen Wall In Colorado's Black Canyon
PlanetMountain has an interview with Austrian Hansjörg Auer on the heels of his FFA of Hallucinogen Wall (5.13+ R) in Colorado's Black Canyon. The route had been done mostly free b...
Access Alert For California State Parks
Keeping with the access theme , Prana has a post on their blog about the pending closure of 70 California State Parks including several that offer access to climbing like Caste Roc...
Report From 2011 New River Rendezvous
The 2011 edition of the New River Rendezvous went down in West Virginia last weekend and DPM was there to capture the weekend in words and video .
El Cap Report Returns For 2011
Tom Evans is back at his usual spot on the bridge beneath El Cap in Yosemite, CA, posting photos and updates for all to enjoy !
More On The Bouldering In RMNP's Endo Valley
Colorado has a new bouldering hotspot in the Endo Valley region of RMNP. Last week Dave Graham established a potential V14 up there and here Jamie Emerson updates us on the latest...
Hard 5.14/Easy 5.15 2nd Ascent By Enzo Oddo
Enzo Oddo reports on his website that he's done the 2nd ascent of Aubade Directe , a route somewhere in the hard 5.14/easy 5.15 range at Sainte Victoire, France that was first done...
Strong First Quarter For Black Diamond, Inc.
Black Diamond, Inc., the parent company of both Black Diamond and Gregory Packs , reported first quarter results for 2011 on Monday, announcing an increase in sales of 18% to $39.1...
Grading Thoughts From Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson put together a list of all the hard boulder problems he's done over the years, offering his revised opinion on the grade each problem based on some of the climbs he's...
Ghetto Booty (5.14c/d) Sees First Repeat
Climbing.com reports that Mexico's Mauricio Huerto has done the 2nd ascent of Ghetto Booty (5.14c/d) at Mt. Charleston some 11 years after it was first done by the legendary French...
Daniel Woods Video Interview
DPM has posted a video interview with Daniel Woods in which they discuss grades, FAs and Woods' future plans with some snippets of him climbing in Magic Wood thrown in for good mea...
Mason Earle Frees Hard Crack In Indian Creek
Via Sender Films come news that Mason Earle climbed what he considers to be his hardest desert crack yet when he was the first to free the 2nd pitch of Hot Pork Sunday in Indian Cr...
Nice Weekend For Alex Puccio In Magic Wood
Alex Puccio has been keeping busy in between World Cups events, sending Jack's Broken Heart (V12) and The Right Hand Of Darkness (V11) in Magic Wood, Switzerland according to her 8...
PlanetMountain Follows Up With Ondra On Chilam Balam
PlanetMountain has an excellent interview with Adam Ondra discussing his quick repeat of Chilam Balam (5.15b) last week .
2nd Ascent Of Pure Imagination (5.14d) By Adam Taylor
DPM reports with an interview that Adam Taylor has done the 2nd ascent of Jonathan Siegrist's Pure Imagination (5.14d) at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. This is Taylor's 2nd 5.14...
Mark Anderson Adds First 5.14 To Shelf Road
Mark Anderson recently added the first 5. 14 to Colorado's Shelf Road when he did the first ascent of Apogee Pending . Check out this interview Anderson did with Splitter Choss to...
Daniel Woods Arrives In Europe
Daniel Woods has embarked on a trip to Europe which will include stops in Varazze, Italy (presumably to try the unrepeated V16 Gioia ) and Ticino, Switzerland. Before getting to th...
Pair Of Sasha DiGiulian Interviews
Following up on Sasha DiGiulian's amazing week of climbing that saw her redpoint 2 5.14cs , onsight a 5.14a and a .13d and send 7 other 5.13s are these pair of interviews she did:...
Another Hard Send For Thomasina Pidgeon In Bishop
Thomasina Pidgeon writes on her blog that she recently repeated Beautiful Gecko (V12) at Bishop, CA's Sad Boulders. In addition to talking a bit about how the problem has increased...
4th Ascent Of Echale (V14) By Phil Schaal
Phil Schaal reports via his blog that he has done the likely 4th ascent of Echale , a V14 in Colorado's Clear Creek Canyon first done by Daniel Woods in 2004.
Multiple Hard Boulders For 9 Year-Old In Hueco Tanks
Big Up Productions is out in Hueco Tanks shooting some footage of 9 year-old Ashima Shiraishi . According to their Facebook page she has done Chablanke (V11 or 12) and Rogered In T...
Another Repeat Of Esperanza (V14)
Ian Dory writes on UGB that he did Esperanza (v14) in Hueco Tanks after "more then 100 goes". In addition, he spent some time putting up a few new problems which you can see here .
PlanetMountain Interviews Ondra Regarding 5.14c Onsights
Following up on this week's news about Adam Ondra onsighting multiple 5.14cs is this interview he did discussing these ascents with PlanetMountain.com. Among the factors that contr...
How To Identify Petzl Counterfeits
To followup on last month's warning about counterfeit Petzl products , Petzl has produced this handy chart to help you decide if your Petzl gear is genuine or not.
Access Victories In California & Tennessee
Congrats to everyone that helped to "unlock" California's Jailhouse Rock raising over $49,000 to aid in the acquisition of that property. Congrats also go out to everyone that help...
First 5.13d For Heather Robinson
Via her 8a scorecard comes news that Heather Robinson has done Power Windows (5.13d) at Nevada's Mt. Potosi. You can see a picture of her on the route on Jorge Visser's new blog .
More Sends In Font For Robinson
Paul Robinson is still in Fontainebleau where in recent days he dispatched with Sideways Daze (V13) and La Force Du Destin (V14) according to his 8a scorecard . The former was the...
DMM Size 4 & 5 Cam Recall
DMM has issued a recall for size 4 & 5 Dragon cams. Read more about what products are affected on their website .
Drive On (V11) Repeated By Natasha Barnes
Natasha Barnes reports on her blog that she has done Drive On (V10/11) in Yosemite, CA. First done by Randy Puro back in 2005 and featured in the Valley Bouldering segment of Dosag...
2nd Ascent Of Fantasia (V13) By Jimmy Webb
According to his 8a scorecard Jimmy Webb has done the 2nd ascent of Daniel Woods' Fantasia (V13) at Matthew Winters Park near Denver, CO. In addition, he ticked off Free Range (V13...
Warning About Chinese Counterfeits Of Petzl Products
Petzl has a warning on their website about counterfeit versions of some of their popular gear like the Attache carabiner and the Ascension jumar. Not surprisingly these rip-offs do...
Only The “Highest Caliber Of Wood Grained Sandstone” For Brion Voges…
According to his 8a.nu scorecard Brion Voges has recovered from a recent finger injury sufficiently enough to do the 4th ascent of Dave Graham's Wood Grain Grippin' (V14) at the bo...
Another Day, More Hard Sends In Bishop For Nalle Hukkataival
This may have to become a recurring item but Nalle Hukkataival spent another day out on the boulders of Bishop, CA and he came away with quick 1 day sends of The Mandala (V12) and...
Hard Sends In Bishop For Hukkataival, Glairon-Mondet
According their respective 8a scorecards Nalle Hukkataival has done The Swarm (V13/14) and Guillaume Glairon-Mondet has done The Mandala SDS (V13/14), both in Bishop, CA. Hukkataiv...
Popular Posts & Videos For November 2010
DPM has a nice write-up about the recent Outdoor Retailer Winter Market trade show put together by John Wilder (aka vegastradguy ). Check it out for a good summary of the latest of...
Paul Robinson Shares His Favorite Bouldering Spots With Outside Blog
In this guest post on the Outside Blog Paul Robinson shares five of his favorite bouldering areas in the world.
David Lama Reconsiders Cerro Torre Plans?
In what seems like a final update on last week's David Lama "news" , Colin Haley reports that Lama has decided to forgo his plans to rap bolt on Cerro Torre. Unfortunately for all...
New Denver Area V13 By Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods has notched another potential V13 in his proverbial belt with the FA of Fantasia at Denver's Matthews/Winters Park. Clocking in at 27 moves, Fantasia adds a long serie...
More From Colin Haley On The David Lama Saga
Following up on Monday's post regarding the David Lama story down in Patagonia , Colin Haley provides an update on his blog clarifying a few points he made previously.
Barefoot On Sacred Ground (V12) Repeated By Portia Menlove
Portia Menlove reports via her 8a scorecard that she's done Barefoot On Sacred Ground (V12) on North Mountain at Hueco Tanks. Based on her scorecard this is her first problem of th...
Will Gadd Updates On Helmcken Falls Spray Ice Project
Will Gadd has an update on his ice climbing project on the insane looking spray ice at Helmcken Falls, Canada which he's been working with Tim Emmett. Gadd calls it "the wildest, b...
Deep Creek Access Fundraiser
Late last year the Southeastern Climbers Coalition announced a fundraising drive for a new tract of land purchased near the sport climbing area Deep Creek and the boulders of the S...
Outside Blog Interviews Ethan Pringle
The Outside Blog caught up with Ethan Pringle to discuss his comeback from injury, his FA of Spicy Dumpling (5.14d) , his efforts to repeat Jumbo Love (5.15b) and more. Check it ou...
Esperanza (V14) Repeated By Matty Hong
Via Under Ground Bouldering comes news that Matt Hong has repeated Esperanza (V14), the popular Fred Nicole testpiece on Hueco Tanks' North Mountain. This was Hong's first problem...
Alex Johnson Back In Bishop, Climbing Well
Via 8a.nu comes news that Alex Johnson is back in Bishop where she recently dispatched of the excellent Haroun And The Sea Of Stories (V11/12) at the Buttermilks. You can read more...
Tommy Caldwell, Male Model?
Back before Tommy Caldwell embarked on his push up El Cap's Dawn Wall last fall he took some time out to do some... male modeling ?
PCI Followup
For additional clarification on last week's post about Professional Climbers International is this interview Peter Beal did with PCI's President, Kevin Jorgeson .
Video Of Jonathan Siegrist On Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) At The Red River Gorge
Arc'teryx has a nice video up on their website of Jonathan Siegrist climbing on his new route Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) at Kentucky's Red River Gorge . Check it out here .
First Repeat Of 20+ Year-Old 5.14 By Cody Roth
Late last year Cody Roth managed the first repeat of a route called Malvasia (5.14c after broken holds) in Croatia some 20+ years after its first ascent by Mauricio "Manolo" Zanoll...
More V14s For Paul Robinson In Fontainebleau
Building on the strong start to his time in Fontainebluea, France, Paul Robinson added a couple more V14s to his 8a scorecard over the past few days with fast repeats of Gecko Assi...
Potential New 5.14 At The Puoux
Joe Kinder reports on his blog that he did the first ascent of 31º at the Puoux near Glenwood Springs, CO yesterday. Check his post for a cool photo sequence of him on the route fo...
New Campground Coming To The New River Gorge
The American Alpine Club has announced plans to open a climber's campground at the New River Gorge on 40 acres of land they've purchased in Fayetteville, WV. The campground, which...
DPM Interviews Porter Jarrard
DPM has a nice interview up with Red River Gorge legend Porter Jarrard who, at age 44, is climbing as well as he ever has with multiple 5.14a sends to his name in the last year.
Action Alert For North Carolina's Chimney Rock State Park
The Access Fund has an alert on their website concerning a plan being proposed for North Carolina's Chimney Rock State Park. The plan allows for continued climbing at established a...
Paul Robinson Repeats Ninja Skills (V14)
27Crags reports that Paul Robinson did the 2nd ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Ninja Skills , a beautiful and long V14 in Sobrio, Switzerland. According to the report Robinson felt i...
2 Swiss V15s For Adam Ondra
According to his scorecard Adam Ondra did his 2nd V15 in as many days yesterday with a repeat of Dave Graham's From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico, Switzerland. On Monday he r...
Access Secured At California's Jailhouse, Access Fund Needs Your Help
The Access Fund has secure permanent access to Sonora, California's Jailhouse crag thanks to the dedicated efforts of locals, cooperation with private landowners and a $100,000 loa...
Brion Voges Lost In The Hood
According to his 8a scorecard Brion Voges has done the 3rd ascent of Dave Graham's Lost In The Hood (V14) in Cowell, AR. You can see video of the ascent here courtesy of Jimmy Webb...
New Speed Record On The Nose By Potter And Leary
According to SuperTopo and Speedclimb.com Dean Potter and Sean Leary teamed up to set a new speed record for climbing The Nose on El Capitan. The pair blazed up the wall in at an a...
2 5.14bs By Danny Robertson In Rifle
Danny Robertson did his 2nd 5.14b of the season yesterday with his repeat of Dave Graham's Girl Talk in Rifle, CO. Previously he had also repeated Andy Raether's Stockboys Revenge...
The Dagger (V14) Repeated By Paul Robinson
27Crags reports that Paul Robinson repeated The Dagger (V14) in Cresciano, Switzerland suggesting that with optimal beta the problem felt like climbing 2 V11s in a row which math m...
Possible V13 At Rock Creek By Charlie Barrett
The Bishop Bouldering Blog reports that Charlie Barrett established a sit start to Compression Session (V9) at Rock Creek near Bishop, CA to yield a potential V13 called Lessons ....
Potential 5.14c By Joe Kinder In Rifle
Rock & Ice reports that Joe Kinder did the FA of Waka Flocka Flame at Rifle, CO's Project Wall. This line links up Waka Flocka (a 5.14b Kinder did the FA of in August ) and Living...
Brian Kim Repeats Iron Monkey (5.14) In Eldorado Canyon
Deadpoint Magazine reports that Brian Kim made a rare repeat of the trad testpiece Iron Monkey (5.14) in Eldorado Canyon, CO. First done by Matt Segal in 2006, Iron Monkey climbs a...
Jen Vennon Repeats The 7 P.M. Show (5.14a) In Rifle
Rock & Ice reports on their website that Jen Vennon repeated The 7 P.M. Show (5.14a) in Rifle, CO. Female 5.14 sends are somewhat rare in Rifle and the R&I story does a nice job co...
The China Glide (5.14d) Repeated By Vasya Vorotnikov
According to his 8a.nu scorecard Vasya Vorotnikov did the 3rd ascent of The China Glide (5.14d) in Rumney, NH. The China Glide, which links all of China Beach (5.14b) into the end...
The Never Ending Story (V14) Repeated By Carlo Traversi
Carlo Traversi writes on his blog that he completed The Never Ending Story (V14) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. Check out video of the ascent here .
Just Do It (5.14c) Repeated By Enzo Oddo
According to Prana's blog 15 year-old French phenom Enzo Oddo is on a visit to the U.S. where he has already managed a fast 2 day repeat of J.B. Tribout's Just Do It (5.14c) at Smi...
First Female Ascent Of The Riverbed (V13) By Anna Stöhr
27 Crags reports that Anna Stöhr nabbed the FFA of The Riverbed (V13), a long power endurance problem in Magic Wood, Switzerland.
Paul Robinson Closes The Book On The Never Ending Story
It's hard to believe it has already been 2 years since Paul Robinson broke his ankle taking a bad fall of The Never Ending Story (V14) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. After a long road...
Alex Honnold Interviewed By Outside Magazine's Blog
Outside Magazine's The Outside Blog catches up with Alex Honnold to discuss his thoughts on climbing fast, climbing alone and climbing without a rope .
Jon Cardwell's Brazil Ticklist
Jon Cardwell is back in Colorado after a month spent exploring the bouldering in Brazil. His ticklist from the trip is, to put it mildly, not bad. In addition to repeating a slew o...
Enzo Oddo Sends Another Hard 5.14, Gets Interviewed About Realization
The young French phenom Enzo Oddo did another 5.14d last week , repeating Tony Lamiche's Condé de choc at Entraygues, France. Petzl also posted this nice interview with the 15 year...
Zach Lerner Sends V14 In Switzerland
I meant to post this awhile back but it slipped through the cracks. Kairn (via UKClimbing ) reported back in August that Zach Lerner did the 3rd ascent of Daniel Woods' Rememrance...
Another Repeat of RMNP Testpiece Jade
DPM reports that Dan Beall added his name to the growing list of climbers who repeated the RMNP, CO testpiece Jade . Originally given V15 after its FA by Daniel Woods back in 2007,...
Sharma 5.14 Repeated In China
The Black Diamond Journal reports that Liuyong Bang did the 2nd ascent of Spicy Noodle in Yangshuo, China. Spicy Noodle was first done by Chris Sharma last year at 5.14b however a...
Multiple 5.14s In Rifle By Joe Kinder
Joe Kinder reports on his blog that he did the FA of Waka Flocka , a possible 5.14b he bolted in Rifle, CO after relocating to the Western Slope last month. Kinder also repeated Li...
Another Hard Boulder At Lincoln Lake
Daniel Woods took down another hard project at Mt. Evans, CO's Lincoln Lake the other day with his FA of the so-called "Big Wall" project. Woods registered the new boulder on his 8...
PuntX (5.14d) Repeated By Sean McColl
Sean McColl recently repeated PuntX (5.14d) in Gorges du Loup, France, and you can read the excellent recap of his efforts on the route in his latest blog entry .
More On Angie Payne's Automator FFA
One last post on Angie Payne's FFA of The Automator (V13) in RMNP,CO . You can read some of her thoughts in this write-up she did for the Five Ten Blog and there is also this nice...
Hard Repeat For Anthony Chertudi At Causey
According to his scorecard Anthony Chertudi has repeated Vampire Direct (5.14c) at Causey, UT . Vampire Direct, which adds an "extremley crimpy and body intensive V12" start to an...
One Less Fred Nicole B3 Boulder In Rocklands
One of Fred Nicole's unrepeated and proposed V15ish boulder problems in Rocklands, South Africa was repeated the other day. No, it wasn't Paul Robinson repeating Monkey Wedding , r...
First Stone Fort Bouldering Guide To Be Released Soon
Just in time for the prime conditions of the year, Greener Grass Publishing will be releasing the first guidebook to bouldering at Tennessee's Stone Fort (formerly Little Rock City...
Potential V14 By Dave Graham At Lincoln Lake
B3Bouldering reports that Dave Graham has done the FA of another potential V14 up at Mt. Evans' Lincoln Lake called The Mote in God's Eye . Graham's latest edition brings the numbe...
4 In A Day On The Chief
Will Stanhope and Alex Honnold teamed up the other week to free 4 routes on the Chief in Squamish in a sub 14 hour push. Read Stanhope's report on his blog .
Hard Sends For Sasha DiGiulian In Europe
According to her 8a.nu scorecard , Sasha DiGiulian repeated Philipe Cuisinere (5.14a) in Rodellar, Spain. In recent weeks she done hard 5.13 in Arco, Italy and Ceuse, France.
Access Alert In Arches National Park
The Access Fund has issued an access alert for Utah's Arches National Park in the hopes of restoring climbing opportunities there after Dean Potter's climb of Delicate Arch in 2006...
First V14 For Jesse Bonin In South Africa
American Jesse Bonin is in Rocklands, South Africa for the summer and according to his 8a.nu scorecard he recently succeeded in doing his first V14, Derailed . Check his blog for u...
(Another) Hard FA From Daniel Woods At Mt. Evans
Another week, another new V14 * new hard boulder from Daniels Woods at Mt. Evans' newest hotspot Lincoln Lake. Woods logged his latest FA on his 8a scorecard as The Exfoliator and...
Ethan Pringle Wheel Of Life Photos
Simon Carter has some nice pictures up on his blog of Ethan Pringle's recent repeat of Wheel Of Life (Vhard/5.long) at the Grampians in Australia. Check them out here .
No More Greener Grasses (V12) FFA By Angie Payne
B3Bouldering reports that Angie Payne has ticked No More Greener Grasses (V12) at Mt. Evans, CO "in a stunning effort" for its first female ascent. Look for video of the ascent som...
New V14 From Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods reports on his blog that he did the FA of a potential V14 dubbed Evil Backwards at the new bouldering hot spot Lincoln Lake near Mt. Evans, CO.
More Hard Female Sends
The Summer of the Woman ™ continued this week out on the boulders as Angie Payne dispatched Clear Blue Skies at Mt. Evans calling it "definitely not V12. I guess V11" while over in...
Another V12 For Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio fought through the terrible conditions that plagued Colorado over the weekend long enough to nab the FFA of The Centaur (V12) in RMNP.
Suspension Of Disbelief Video At DPM
DPM has another nice video up , this one featuring Carlo Traversi on his recent repeat of Suspension Of Disbelief (V13) in Eldorado Canyon, CO.
Nice Yosemite Bouldering Video At DPM
DPM has a really nice video up right now from Walker Emerson that features a handful of lesser-known climbers repeating some of the "new school" boulder problems that have been put...
7th Ascent Of Jade
As expected , Jimmy Webb did the 7th ascent of Jade in RMNP, CO yesterday suggesting a downgrade to V14. Check out his blog for the video .
5.14a FFA For Paige Claassen In Washington
In his latest blog entry Jonathan Siegrist reports that Paige Claassen has done the FFA of Motley Crux (5.14a) at Deep Creek near Spokane, WA.
Access Fund, RRGCC Team Up To Refi Land At Red River Gorge
Fairly big access news concerning the Red River Gorge today as the Access Fund is helping the RRGCC restructure their loan on the increasingly popular Pendergrass-Murray Recreation...
Jimmy Webb Continues His Climb
Jimmy Webb 's seemingly inexorable climb through the bouldering grades continued last weekend with repeats of 2 RMNP V13s in 1 day. He dispatched Don't Get Too Greedy and Top Notch...
2 Interviews With Dai Koyamada About Recent Sends
On the heels of his repeat of The Story Of Two Worlds (V15) Dai Koyamada recently did interviews with both DPM and The Low Down . Check out his thoughts at the respective links.
5.14d FA By Chris Sharma
Daila Ojeda reports that Chris Sharma did the FA of Era Bella (5.14d) in Margalef, Spain. Check her blog for a couple of pictures.
El Cap Report Back For Spring/Summer 2010
The El Cap Report , a near daily update on who is climbing what on Yosemite's El Capitan replete with close-up photos of climbers on the big stone, is back in action for the season...
Dave Graham Visits Sweden
Dave Graham made a short trip to Sweden last week to give lectures and check out the local climbing scene. During his brief stay he found time to repeat Houdini Assis Left (V13), s...
Near Onsight Of 5.13 Multipitch By Tommy Caldwell
On hiatus for the summer from the Mescalito project, Tommy Caldwell teamed up with Super Topo's Chris McNamara to attempt an onsite of the South Face of Mt. Watkin's (5.13a, 19 pit...
Alex Honnold In Red Rocks
On a recent visit to Red Rocks outside Las Vegas, NV Alex Honnold soloed the 1000 ft. Original Route (5.12b) on Rainbow Wall and Prince Of Darkness (5.10c) in Black Velvet Canyon,...
UKClimbing Interviews Adam Ondra
UKClimbing has a long and extensive interview with Adam Ondra discussing his recent visit to the UK which saw Ondra repeat 2 5.14d's and onsight several 5.13d's.
Full Version Of Red River Gorge iPhone App Now Available
A final version of the Red River Gorge guidebook iPhone app that I previewed last week is now available for download from the App Store for $29.99. I have my copy and it looks real...
3rd Ascent Of Ambrosia By Isaac Caldiero
Isaac Caldiero has done the 3rd ascent ( Jorgeson , Honnold ) of the highball Ambrosia (V11) at Bishop, CA's Buttermilks. Check out the excellent write-up on the Bishop Bouldering...
Good Weekend Of Bouldering For Adam Ondra
Over the weekend at Petrohrad in the Czech Republic Adam Ondra climbed 17 problems V9 and harder including the FA of a V14 called Stix SD .
Essay On Adam Ondra's Multi-pitch Achievements
Black Diamond has an interesting essay on their journal site that details Adam Ondra's impressive sends in 2008 of WoGü (5.14b, 7 pitches, FFA) and Hotel Supramonte (5.14a, 10 pitc...
Chris Sharma Visits Bishop
During a brief visit to the U.S. recently Chris Sharma managed to add Spectre (V13) and Haroun And The Sea Of Stories (V11/12) to his ticklist in Bishop, CA.
Moe's Valley Preview From 'The Dirty Southwest'
Desert Rat Productions has a nice preview clip from The Dirty Southwest of the likes of Daniel Woods, Isaac Caldiero and Jon Cardwell bouldering in Moe's Valley, UT.
Latest On Mescalito From Kevin Jorgeson
Matador Sports caught up with Kevin Jorgeson to get the latest on the Mescalite free climbing project he's working with Tommy Caldwell
5.14a Onsight For Dave Graham At Oliana
A bit quiet of late, Dave Graham onsighted Picos Pardos (5.14a) at Oliana, Spain the other day calling it "a real treat". Hopefully this is a sign of good things to come on his pro...
Live(ish) From El Cap With Kevin Jorgeson
Yesterday Kevin Jorgeson tried a bit of an experiment while working on that well documented free climbing project on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell. Throughout the day Jorgeson posted...
New 5.14c From Joe Kinder In Southern Utah
Joe Kinder bolted and sent Flight Of The Conchords in southern Utah's Hurricave to yield a new 5.14c. Check his blog and this interview with DPM for more info.
2010 Hueco Rock Rodeo Photo Gallery
Merrick Ales has an excellent gallery of photos from the 2010 Hueco Rock Rodeo up on his website that includes plenty of shots of comp winners Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio. There's...
Interviewed By SplitterChoss.com
In the event that you can’t get your full ClimbingNarc fix from this site alone I did an interview with SplitterChoss.com that you can check out here .
Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Alex Johnson Sign With Nicros
Hold maker Nicros has signed Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson and Alex Johnson to their team to help shape holds and develop products for the 2011 Nicros line-up. Word on the street is...
Rock & Ice Interviews Top Climbing Photographers
Andrew Bisharat at Rock & Ice interviewed several well known climbing photographers for a recent magazine piece and he posted the various answers to 6 of his questions on R&I's web...
2nd Ascent Of Ambrosia By Alex Honnold
Alex Honnold has nabbed the 2nd ascent of Kevin Jorgeson's Buttermilks uber-highball Ambrosia . Honnold figured out a slightly easier sequence for the 45+ foot tall line on the Gra...
Jimmy Webb Dishes On Bouldering In The Southeast
Props to Brant Hawkins for putting together this excellent video on DPM featuring Jimmy Webb, Brion Voges and Brad Weaver doing their thing on the boulders of Tennessee.
Interesting Developments At Mad Rock
Check out this post at Deadpoint Magazine as they try to piece together the latest developments at climbing gear maker Mad Rock .
Progression Soundtrack, Movies From BS Productions Available For Download
In addition to the movies I mentioned last month you can now download digital versions of The Players and Spray at Bouldering.com at greatly reduced prices. If you're looking for m...
Access Alert In Yosemite
The Access Fund has an alert on their website about some potential negative changes on the horizon for climbers in Yosemite Valley . Check it out to see how you can help.
New 5.14+ Sport Route In Switzerland From Fred Nicole
Via TheLowDown comes belated news of a new hard 5.14 boulder problem/sport route by Fred Nicole in St. Gallen, Switzerland called L'isola che non c'è . You can read more about his...
Actual 2010 Outdoor Retailer Winter Market Climbing Wrap Up
Rockclimbing.com has an excellent wrap up of what various climbing companies had to offer at the recent 2010 Outdoor Retailer Winter Market Trade Show.
Year End Wrap-Ups From UKClimbing
UKClimbing has a couple of nice year end review type articles that they posted recently to wrap up major news items from 2009. One for sport climbing and one for bouldering .
Alpinist Interviews Will Gadd After Endless Ascent
Alpinist Magazine caught up with Will Gadd after his marathon 24 hour session of ice climbing to learn what his inspirations were among other things. Check it out here .
Cool Spectre Video
Check out this excellent clip on DPM that Carlo Traversi put together of Kevin Jorgeson repeating Dave Graham’s Spectre (V13) at the Pollen Grains in Bishop, CA.
Interview With The Man Behind Frontrangebouldering.com
Examiner.com has a nice interview up with longtime Frontrangebouldering.com webmaster Mike Brooks.
Chris Sharma First Round Update From Spain
The Big Up blog has a nice update on Chris Sharma’s efforts to free the First Round First Minute project in Margalef. Apparently he is getting frustrated after falling at least 15...
A Not So Merry Christmas For Patxi Usobiaga
Via Kairn is this unfortunate news that Patxi Usobiaga added his name to the already long list of 2009 shoulder blow-ups .
Vincent Pochon Keeps It Island
Accomplished Fontainebleau local Vincent Pochon recently repeated Dave Graham’s Font V15 The Island , adding what he felt was a more logical lower start from the right. Kairn.com h...
Paul Robinson Arkansas Update
Battling through pretty terrible sounding conditions in Arkansas , Paul Robinson managed the first repeats of Welcome To Fight Club (V13) and Lost In The Hood (V14).
Cool Video Of Lauren Lee Sending The Present (5.14a)
Check out this nice video of Lauren Lee sending The Present (5.14a) at the Gorilla Cliffs outside St. George, Utah.
2 V13s For Brion Voges In Hueco Tanks
Brion Voges has done 2 Chris Sharma V13s in Hueco Tanks with sends of Diabolique and Full Throttle . Prior to arriving in Hueco he stopped in Arkansas to send One Inch Pinch (V12)...
Interesting Peter Mortimer Interview
The Boston Rock Gym recently interviewed Peter Mortimer from Sender Films where he says (among other things) that King Lines is the best selling climbing DVD of all time and that t...
Super Topo Auction Benefiting Access Fund
Super Topo is running an auction on gear and guidebooks to benefit the Access Fund . Hurry, there are only 6 days left!
The Dream Is Not Dead?
Nalle Hukkataival has been hanging out in Ticino, Switzerland where he recently did the first repeat of the stand start to Dreamtime since it broke a few weeks back. Formerly V12,...
CCC And Access Fund To Purchase Bouldering Area In North Carolina
The Carolina Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund have teamed up to purchase the Rumbling Bald West Side Boulders in North Carolina under the Access Fund’s new Land Conservation...
Cool List Of 5.14d And Harder Climbs/Climbers
Check out this website for a pretty comprehensive list of the world’s 5.14d and harder sport routes along with the climbers that have climbed them.
Final Mescalito Dispatch Of 2009 From Kevin Jorgeson
In the final dispatch of the season for the Black Diamond blog, Kevin Jorgeson provides an update on his and Tommy Caldwell’s efforts to free a new line on El Cap. The bottom line:...
Hard Roof Crack Greenspit Sent First Try By Stevie Haston
The ageless wonder Stevie Haston is making news once again, this time for his first try ascent of Didier Berthod’s well known roof crack Greenspit (hard 5.13ish?). Read all about i...
Excellent Alan Watts Interview
Planetmountain.com has an excellent interview with Smith Rock sport climbing pioneer Alan Watts .
Nalle Hukkataival Interview
Joost has done a nice interview with well known Finnish boulderer Nalla Hukkataival in which they discuss how Hukkataival began climbing as well as his thoughts on the V15 grade.
Tim Kemple Goes Behind The Scenes On El Cap
Tim Kemple has been out in Yosemite capturing media of Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson working their much hyped El Cap free climbing project. In his latest blog post Kemple discu...
New Daniel Woods Blogsite
Via B3Bouldering comes news that Daniel Woods has started a new website with a blog, pictures, video, etc. Check it out here .
2 5.14c FAs by Charlotte Durif
In the past month, France’s Charlotte Durif has done two 5. 14c FAs, The Wall at Combe La Vielle and the amazing looking roof climb Pull Over at Grotte de Galetas.
Adam Ondra’s Hardest Route Yet
A likely sign of things to come, Adam Ondra has done the FA of what he considers his hardest route yet at a crag near Sardinia, Italy. Dubbed Marina Superstar , Ondra felt the rout...
Fred Nicole Repeats Bishop Testpiece
According to the Bishop Bouldering Blog , the nearly 40 year old Swiss bouldering legend Fred Nicole has climbed The Swarm (V14) in Bishop, CA, adding his name to the long list of...
2nd Mescalito Update From Kevin Jorgeson
Back from a week off in New York, Kevin Jorgeson provides another update for the Black Diamond Journal about his and Tommy Caldwell’s efforts on El Cap. El Cap report pictures of t...
Photo Friday
A few photo links to inspire your weekend: bouldering at Castle Rock, ID , sport climbing in Kalymnos, Greece and any post from the El Cap Report .
Issue 2 Of Squamish Climbing Magazine Now Available
The 2nd issue of Squamish Climbing Magazine is now available for free consumption at this link . Focused almost exclusively on the climbing scene around Squamish, BC, SCM is well w...
First Mescalito Update From Kevin Jorgeson
Kevin Jorgeson provides an update for the Black Diamond Journal on the first week of his and Tommy Caldwell’s efforts to free a new line up El Capitan.
Hard Sends By Weaver, Robinson, Johnson & Puccio
Brad Weaver has done what I believe to be the 4th the 5th ascent of Mike Doyle's Lucifer (5.14c) at the Red River Gorge, KY. Over in Utah, Paul Robinson did the 2nd ascent of James...
Yet Another 5.14d For Dave Graham
Via TheLowDown comes news that Dave Graham is continuing his return to form, this time with the 3rd ascent of Chocholocco (5.14d) at Carros, France. A few pictures of him on the ro...
Hound Ears 2009 Video: Max Zolotukhin Repeating Random Man (V11)
Dave Wetmore put together a short video of Max Zolotukhin and company doing the first repeat * of Random Man (V11, FA James Litz 2001) at this year’s Hound Ears Triple Crown event...
Paul Robinson’s New Website
Paul Robinson just launched a new website P-Rob.com . Check it out for more background on Paul’s life as a painter and a professional climber.
Chris Lindner Repeats Girl Talk (5.14c)
Fresh off a move to Colorado , Chris Lindner has done the 8th 9th (at least) ascent of Dave Graham’s Girl Talk (5.14c) at Rifle, CO according to the Maxim Ropes Facebook page .
2009 Yosemite Facelift & Auction
September 23rd through the 27th is the 6th annual Yosemite Facelift to help clean up Yosemite Valley. Even if you can’t attend in person, you can help the cause by bidding on auct...
Access Troubles In Vietnam?
Interesting article about potential access problems in Vietnam which has been featured in recent climbing videos The Players and Dosage 3.
Phil Schaal Jade (V15) Video Now Up At MVM
It lives…for now. Footage of Phil Schaal’s 5th ascent of Jade (V15) is up at MVM .
Outtakes From Swedish Climbing Movie
Via 8a.nu is this cool clip of DWS and sport climbing in Sweden . As an added bonus you get to meet the “eccentric” Jens Larssen.
Climbing.com Boone Speed Interview
Climbing.com has a nice interview up with 90’s sport climbing icon Boone Speed.
New Patagonia Tin Shed
Patagonia has updated their Tin Shed multimedia website . This update features climbing in Namibia among other very cool clips. There’s also a good video of Lynn Hill bouldering...
Video Of Chris Schulte Sending 2 V14s In Fontainebleau
Deadpoint Magazine has a lengthy video from Fontainebleau that features Chris Schulte and Jackie Hueftle sending several problems in the forest including 2 V14s, Gecko Assis and Kh...
Amazing Story Of Survival On Half Dome
Check out this incredibly well written account of a near fatal accident on the popular, and increasingly infamous, Half Dome Cables.
Pete Takeda Remembers Jonny Copp
Writing on the Cleanest Line blog, Pete Takeda remembers his friend Jonny Copp .
Wall Street Journal John Bachar Article
Michael Ybarra writes excellent “extreme sports” articles for the Wall Street Journal, and his article about John Bachar is no exception .
Tips For Climbing 5.12
Via Will Gadd is this excellent post that has several good tips on how to break through the 5.12 barrier (or any difficulty barrier in climbing for that matter).
Full 2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships Highlights
Full highlight clips are now available for both the Men’s and Women’s final from this year’s Mammut Bouldering Championships (in DPM HD!). Let the debate continue...
Tyrus Bachar Trust Auction
Friends and family of the recently deceased John Bachar have put together an auction of great items to benefit John’s son Tyrus. Click here to see the items up for bid . Auctions e...
Cool Tim Kemple Interview
Photographer Tim Kemple recently did a nice interview with Ascartel.com ( Via FStopgear on Twitter )
2009 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market Day 2 Recap
Rockclimbergirl shares a brief recap of Day 2 of the 2009 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market.
New Multimillion Dollar Loan Program From The Access Fund
The Access Fund recently announced a new multimillion dollar revolving loan program called the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign. Click here to read more about it.
RC.Com 2009 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market Day 1 Recap
A thorough recap of day 1 of the 2009 Outdoor Retailer Summer Market from RockClimbing.com
2009 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell Registration - CLOSED
Registration for this year’s 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell opened August 4th, and is already close. Click here for the comp flyer.
Chamonix World Cup Video
Via 8a is this video that gives a better idea what the sport climbing World Cups look like.
New Black Diamond Website
Black Diamond has a redesigned website that includes a neat journal section featuring stories and reports from BD athletes.
Kevin Jorgeson Updates From South Africa
Kevin Jorgeson updates us on 3 new highballs he established in the bouldering mecca of South Africa
Sunseeker (V13) Video
DPM has the video of Carlo Traversi on the 2nd ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's recent addition at Mt. Evans , Sunseeker (V13).
Harness Humor
Pimpin’ & Crimpin’ helps you interpret what your partner’s harness says about them
Another Update On The Five Ten Projects
Since it's unlikely I will ever be healthy for a long enough period of time to put my Five Ten Projects through their paces, this updated review at Sicky Gnar Gnar is going to be y...
Prana Interviews Fred Nicole
Prana has a brief interview on their blog with bouldering legend Fred Nicole
Future Colorado Bouldering Destinations?
Jamie Emerson has a pretty interesting post about some areas in Colorado that may hold untapped potential for new bouldering. It sounds like working out on a Stairmaster might be a...
Big Worm (V14) Repeated Twice
Chris Schulte and Paul Robinson have done quick 2nd and 3rd ascents of Dave Graham’s recently opened V14 at Mt. Evans called Big Worm with Robinson suggesting it might be hard V13....
Adam Ondra Repeats Corona (5.15a)
Adam Ondra has done the first repeat of the hardest route in Frankenjura, Germany, Markus Bock’s Corona (5.15a). Pictures from Vojtech Vrzba .
CO Based Mountaineers Missing In China
The news of the possible disappearance in China of Boulder, CO based climbers Micah Dash and Jonny Copp along with filmmaker Wade Johnson has been blazing around the internet today...
Dave Graham Is Back
Dave Graham has apparently recovered from his latest finger injury and is “syked to be climbing again”. The other day he did the FA of Big Worm at Mt. Evans, CO for which he has su...
New Bouldering Gym Coming To Denver
The indoor climbing scene continues to grow in Colorado’s Frontrange with the upcoming opening of the Denver Bouldering Club . Check out their website for more.
New Videos From Utah Added To DPM HDTV
Deadpoint Magazine has added video of Alex Puccio, Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson and Jon Cardwell bouldering in Moe’s Valley as well as footage of Joe Kinder on his new 5.14d The Re-...
Draper’s Bluff CLOSED
Via Team Saucisson comes word that Draper’s Bluff in Southern Illinois is CLOSED to climbing until further notice.
El Cap Report Returns
Anyone who spends time on SuperTopo’s forum has probably read the daily updates of the climbing on Yosemite’s El Capitan provided by Tom Evans. Back for another season, his report...
Big Up’s Progression Update: Tommy Caldwell On El Cap
Big Up Productions has another update on what they are working on for their upcoming film Progression. Their latest blog entry details a futuristic free route Tommy Caldwell is w...
New V14 In The Buttermilks From Shawn Diamond
Shawn Diamond linked up the problems Direction (V13) and Magnetic North (V8/9) on the Grandma Peabody boulder at the Buttermilks to create Direct North . Diamond has proposed a gra...
Rocky Mountain Highball Reviews Are In
The highly anticipated Rocky Mountain Highball premiered at the Boulder Theatre on Monday night, and a few reviews are now in. Here is one from Boulder Diaries and another from All...
More On The Five Ten Projects
Since I haven’t had much time to climb in mine (soon though? ) here is a more thorough analysis of the Five Ten Projects.
Chris Sharma Has A Blog??
It appears as though the one and only Chris Sharma is joining the ranks of pro bloggers. He is going to be sharing updates with the Momentum Video Magazine . Check out his first...
Litz’s Chinese Arithmetic Repeated
Apparently Daniel Woods did the first repeat of James Litz’s Chinese Arithmetic (V13??) at the Lilly Boulders of Tennessee this weekend in a mere 3 tries . More to come…
Robbed In China
This past weekend, Mike Call from MVM and Duncan from the Boulder Oz blog were both robbed in China ! Gone are laptops, cash, and Mike’s HD Video camera. His recent footage of Sh...
Alpinist #26 Coming Soon
According to UKClimbing the recently revived Alpinist Magazine shipped comeback issue # 26 earlier this week. It should be very interesting to see what shows up in our mailboxes.
Hueco Tanks NY Times Article
Big props to Andy Mann for getting several of his photos published in the New York Times in an article about Hueco Tanks.
Buttermilks Cleanup This Saturday
On Saturday, April 18, please join the Friends of the Inyo and the Eastern Sierra Climbers Coalition for a day of fulfilling volunteer work and an evening of entertainment.
ODub Interviewed By UKClimbing
Climber/Climbing Rapper ODub was recently interviewed for the site UKClimbing.com .
Free Patagonia Wallpapers
Patagonia.com has a cool gallery of wallpapers to spruce up your desktop.
New V14 In Moe’s Valley, UT
Still in Moe’s Valley , Daniel Woods has added a 5 move lower start to Isaac Caldiero’s Meatbag (V13) to yield The Beach , a proposed soft V14. Check out the updated list of V14 bo...
Wade David Vimeo Channel
Wade David has a cool climbing channel on Vimeo where you can see ascents of several noteworthy boulders from across Colorado’s Frontrange.
John Sherman Blog On DPM
John Sherman has joined the ranks of bloggers at the Deadpoint Magazine website.
Temporary Closure At Hueco Tanks
The Grenade Boulder, home to the classic Nobody Gets Out Of Here Alive (V2) at Hueco Tanks’ North Mountain, has come under a temporary closure due to nesting wrens. Read the full...
New Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition Website
The Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition recently launched their new website . Check it out for access news and free topos to areas like Poudre Canyon.
Tips For Climbing Dates
The irreverent climbing blog Pimpin’ And Crimpin’ has some hilarious tips for your next climbing date .
Climbing Photography Tips
UKClimbing has a cool article by Alex Messenger with several tips to help you capture better climbing photos.
Agent Orange (V13) Repeated
Phil Schaal has made a probable 2nd ascent of Paul Robinson’s Agent Orange (V13) at the Gunks. Here is some video and a few thoughts on the FA..
Book Of Bitter Aspects Repeated Again
Max Zolotukhin has done the 3rd ascent of Dave Graham’s The Book Of Bitter Aspects at Bradley, CT, registering it at V13 on his 8a spraycard.
Skin Maintenance
Leslie Timms has some helpful tips posted on her blog for keeping your skin healthy. What does everyone else do?
Chuck Fryberger Ethiopia Trip Reports
Not really climbing related, but still very interesting are the reports from Chuck Fryberger’s trip to Ethiopia. ( Part 1 , Part 2 )
Andre Di Felice Repeats The Saadhu (V14)
Andre Di Felice has made the 4th ascent of Timy Fairfield’s V12 into V11 link up called The Saadhu (V14) at The Temple, NM. The other repeats came from Jon Cardwell and Daniel Wood...
Odub Interviews Alex Johnson
Odub has a funny interview up with reigning ABS Nationals champ Alex Johnson.
Another V13 FA In Hueco For Nalle Hukkataival
In addition to his FA of The Machinist (V13), Nalle Hukkataival managed another V13 FA before leaving Hueco Tanks. He climbed an obvious sit start to Dirty Martini On The Rocks ( V...
Mike Doyle On The Unexpected Send
Mike Doyle recently surprised himself by redpointing The Route Of All Evil (5.14a) at the VRG. Check out his blog for an excellent post on this phenomena of the “unexpected send”.
Lynn Hill Interview At TheLowDown
TheLowDown has a nice interview with Lynn Hill posted that focuses on her recent repeat of Chablanke (V11/12) at Hueco Tanks, TX.
Chuck Fryberger’s Thoughts On Fred Nicole
Chuck Fryberger has an excellent collection of his thoughts and impressions gleaned from working with bouldering legend Fred Nicole. Very cool stuff.
Terre De Sienne (V14) Repeated Twice
Jon Cardwell and Matt Wilder have made the 5th and 6th ascents respectively of Fred Nicole’s Terre De Sienne (V14) at Hueco Tanks, TX.
Patagonia Tin Shed Update
Patagonia has updated their interactive Tin Shed website with a batch of new stories and videos. Check their blog for the list of updates.
Jacinda Hunter Climbs 5.14b In Utah
Jacinda Hunter has made an impressive FFA of Dave Graham’s Breaking The Law (5.14b) at Black and Tan, UT. Check out the video at MVM .
New Kevin Jorgeson Blog
Current Climbing Magazine coverboy Kevin Jorgeson has started himself a proper blog. Check it out at http://kjorgeson.blogspot.com/ .
Ty Landman Repeats Kheops Assis
On the still not-functioning-in-the-U.S. MoonBlog comes apparent word that Ty Landman has repeated Kheops Assis (V14) in Fontainbleau. ( Via TheLowDown )
James Webb Sending Hard In Arkansas
James Webb repeated two Dave Graham V13’s this weekend in Arkansas, suggesting a possible downgrade to V12 for both. The problems in question are Chunk Up The Deuce and Loved By Fe...
Pure Reviews Are In
Chuck Fryberger’s new bouldering flick Pure premiered last Friday night in Boulder and the reviews are in. Here is a review from AllClimbing and here is one from BoulderDiaries .
Chris Schulte Climbs His First V14
American Chris Schulte has climbed his first V14 during his current trip to Fontainebleau, Gecko Assis . You can read a recent interview with Schulte at Mountains and Water, and I...
Climbing.com Chris Webb Parsons Interview
Climbing Magazine has a good interview with Australia’s Chris Webb Parsons on their website.
Simba’s Pride Video From Hotaches
Hotaches Productions has posted a cool clip of Ben Cossey highball bouldering the route/boulder Simba’s Pride (E8 6b).
Interview With Josh Helke From Organic
Check out this interview with Organic Bouldering’s Josh Helke on the blog Cells for Cells .
Daniel Woods Arkansas Update In His Own Words
As a follow up on my post about Daniel Woods’ recent trip to Arkansas , Woods himself has posted a trip report on La Sportiva’s website . 9 out of 10 eh?
Southern Smoke Video Now On MVM
Spencer Victory’s video of Joe Kinder and Brad Weaver doing the first and second ascents of Southern Smoke (5.14c) at the Red River Gorge is now up on MVM .
Carlo Traversi’s Climbing Industry Thoughts
Carlo Traversi has some thoughts on the state of the climbing industry in his latest post. Nothing all that new, but still interesting to read the thoughts of someone trying to ma...
Matt Wilder Interview
Check out this lengthy interview with Matt Wilder . It’s definitely worth reading.
Australian Bolting Tragedy Follow-up
Simon Carter has a follow-up with additional information about the recent accident in Australia involving some questionable bolting.
Excellent Fontainebleau Primer
UKClimbing.com recently posted an excellent article on the logistics for a trip to the bouldering mecca that is Fontainebleau. The article has helpful tips on understanding the gr...
2009 Outdoor Retailer Winter Market Wrap-ups
Rockclimbing.com has 3 nice write-ups on the climbing side of the recent Outdoor Retailer trade show in Salt Lake City. Check them out: Day 1 , Day 2 , Day 3 .
Steph Davis Meetup During ABS Nationals
If you are going to be in Boulder for ABS Nationals, one event that might be worth checking out is the recently announced Meetup with Steph Davis on Friday 2/13. Davis will also b...
Alex Honnold & Paul Robinson Interviews
A couple of good interviews to check out: one with Paul Robinson and the other with Alex Honnold .
Carlo Traversi & Emily Harrington Are 2009 SCS National Champions
Carlo Traversi and Emily Harrington won their respective divisions at this weekend’s SCS Adult National Championships . DPM has a great write-up as well.
Dream In Vertical Rope Review
Dream In Vertical has an excellent post recapping the pros and cons of several ropes they have used.
New Blog From Matt Wilder
Guidebook author and all around strong climber Matt Wilder has launched a new blog . Check it out for recent news on a new V11/12 in Colorado’s Frontrange.
Kevin Jorgeson Climbs The FA Of Buttermilks Highball Ambrosia
Kevin Jorgeson has bouldered/soloed a new line on the east wall of the incredible Grandpa Peabody boulder in the Buttermilks of Bishop, CA. Big Up was on hand to film and the Bisho...
Lynn Hill Chablanke Photos
Check out Deadpoint Magazine for a few photos of Lynn Hill’s recent repeat of Chablanke (V11/12) at Hueco Tanks.
Big Sale At Big Up Productions
Better late than never, Big Up Productions is running a 15% off sale on everything in their store for all you procrastinators out there. That means you can get the Dosage Box set (...
Lynn Hill Sends Chablanke (V11/12) In Hueco Tanks, TX
Via the blog of Andy Mann comes news that 47 (soon to be 48) year old Lynn Hill has sent Chablanke (V11/12) in Hueco Tanks, TX. Very impressive!
Keepin It Island: (Another) New V15 From Dave Graham
Dave Graham has added a sit start to the V13 Boogalagga in Chironico, Switzerland that he is calling Big Paw . He has suggested a grade of V15 for this new problem. You can read th...
Spray DVD Sale For The Holidays
Just in time for the holidays, you can now pick up a copy of BS Production’s latest release Spray for just $20 . Check out our review of Spray here . If anyone knows of any other...
Paul Robinson Guest Blogs At The Five Ten On Tour Blog
Paul Robinson has posted a great guest blog on the Five Ten On Tour blog ( RSS Feed ). It is helpful to read about how he has specifically focused on not letting the whole situatio...
Video of Chris Sharma Sending Lucifer (5.14c)
Video of Chris Sharma doing the 3rd ascent of Lucifer (5.14c) at the Red River Gorge is now up at MVM. Click here to check it out.
Ty Landman Practice Of The Wild (V15) Video
Video of Ty Landman doing the 2nd ascent of Chris Sharma’s testpiece Practice Of The Wild (V15) is now up at Moonclimbing . What an amazing looking line.
Niagara Glen Bouldering Access In Jeopardy
Bouldering access at the Canadian area Niagara Glen is in jeopardy. Located just across the border from Buffalo, NY, “The Glen” is a popular destination for U.S. & Canadian climber...
Angie Payne European Human Being Video & Interview
Momentum Video Magazine has video of Angie Payne on her recent ascent of European Human Being (V12) in RMNP along with a nice interview . They also have video of the other recent...
Matt Segal Does 4th Ascent of Cobra Crack
Matt Segal has made the 4th ascent of one of the hardest traditionally protected crack climbs in the world, Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish, BC. It was first climbed by Sonnie Trot...
MVM Going Free This Week
Last week it was confirmed officially on the MVM site that the paid premium section would be going away by the first week of September ( as I had reported back in July ). I for on...
Patagonia’s Tin Shed
Via The Mountain World , we have a brand new time waster from our friends at Patagonia. They have launched a very cool site called Tin Shed that is supposed to mimic hanging out in...
V12 For Alex Johnson
Alex Johnson has had a very productive month of August since she moved to Colorado. Yesterday she made the first female ascent of Clear Blue Skies (V12) at Mt. Evans. I think I men...
New Andy Mann Photo Blogsite
Andy Mann is back from South Africa and he is revamping how he shares his work with us, this time with a new blog. The old dropkneeclimbing blog is now obsolete, and it has been r...
2008 Mammut Boulding Championships Results: Sharma & Puccio Come Out On Top
Another ridiculously close finish between Alex Puccio and Alex Johnson. Full Results here. No P-Rob in finals?? Qualifier #3 must have been wicked.
Maxim Rope Recall
New England ropes is recalling two types of their Maxim climbing ropes. Check AllClimbing for more details and then check your ropes to make sure yours aren’t part of the recall.
Torrent Falls Re-Opened To Public Climbers
Been itching to send one of those classic 5.11 or 5.12s at the Red River Gorge’s Torrent Falls Crag ? Bummed that is has been closed to the public for the better part of 1+ year? W...
Excellent Post On Colorado Bouldering
If you haven’t already seen it, Jamie Emerson has an excellent recap of what he calls “ The Golden Age Of Colorado Bouldering ”. It is a must read if you are at all interested in...
Get A Copy Of ‘The Life’ On DVD For $5 Plus Shipping
Like your climbing movies cheap? You can now get your own copy of the recently reviewed The Life on DVD for $5 plus shipping. Click here to order . Don’t have $5, comment here b...
Somebody Do Me This Favor
Please bring the Rocklands area of South Africa into the 21st century and give them some high speed internet access??? How else will we follow the sendtrain that is Paul Robinson...
Jay Knower Slideshow At Devil’s Lake
On Saturday, July 5th Wisconsin climber Jay Knower will be giving a slideshow at Wheeler’s campground near Devil’s Lake State Park. Among other things, Jay is known for being one...
Reel Rock Film Tour Coming To An Area Near You
The 3rd annual Reel Rock Film Tour is coming to an area near you. If you live in places like California or Colorado this is nothing new to you. However, for the first time the tour...
Tony Lamiche Repeats Amandala (V15)
Andy Mann is in South Africa living the dream, and he reports in his first blog for Climbing.com that Tony Lamiche has repeated Fred Nicole's Rocklands, South Africa V15 Amandala.&...
Nalle Hukkataival Mt. Evans Video At MVM
If you never checked out the premium section of the Momentum Video Magazine , now might be a good time to do so. They have video of Nalle Hukkataival climbing the following problem...
Guide To Choss
The aptly named Splitter Choss Blog has a helpful guide to the different kinds of choss one might come across when searching for new rock. I think the rock at Governor Dodge...
Ally Dorey Interview
Check out this interesting and humorous interview with Frontrange climber Ally Dory on a new blog I came across today called Pimpin' and Crimpin' .
Perfecto World Premier Tonight
Perfecto, a new Mike Call movie featuring Deep Water Soloing and Sport Climbing on the Spanish island of Mallorca premiers tonight in Golden, CO. More details are available a...
Alex Johnson Wins 2008 Bouldering World Cup In Vail
The Midwest's own Alex Johnson took the top spot at the World Cup Bouldering event in Vail, CO this past weekend. Paul Robinson was the top Male U.S. finisher in 3rd place. Full Re...
2008 U.S. Bouldering World Cup Qualifiers Results
The 1st round of the Bouldering World Cup at the Teva Mountain Games concluded yesterday. Paul Robinson is in 1st place for the men and Alex Johnson qualified 1st for the Women. Fu...
8a.nu To World [Again]: Just Because We Have A Popular Climbing Site Doesn't Mean We Know What We Are Talking About
Climbers with alleged "eating disorders" should have their scorecards "recommended" against?
Possible Dosage Box Set?
To follow-up on yesterday's news of what is going to be in the upcoming Dosage 5 DVD from Big Up Productions , I have also heard rumblings of a possible DVD box set of all 5 Dosage...
Sonnie Trotter 'Gives Back'
Peep this story from Scotland where Sonnie Trotter (in town working E11 trad route Rhapsody ) helped rescue a 'Non-Educated Delinquent' Scottish youth when said youth climbed...
From Zero To 5.14 In 5 Months
Less than 5 full months since fracturing his heel while attempting Mandala SDS (V14) in Bishop, and about 1 month since taking his first steps outside of his cast, Ethan Pringle se...
Adam Ondra Action Directe Video
Action Directe is one of those iconic problems that I don't really think you can see too much footage of people climbing. Check out Euroclimbing.com for footage of Adam Ondra...
Carlo Traversi Paths Of Glory (V12) FA Video
Wade David has a high res video for download of Carlo Traversi doing the First Ascent of Paths Of Glory (V12) in Clear Creek Canyon, CO. Daniel Woods made a quick 2nd ascent...
Adam Ondra Repeats Action Directe (5.14d)
15 year old Adam Ondra has repeated Wolfgang Gullich's Action Directe (5.14d) in Germany's Frankenjura. Read more at Czechclimbing and climbing.com .
2nd Edition Of ClimbTalk Radio
Yesterday was the 2nd edition of Climb Talk Radio, a climbing themed talk show originating out of Boulder, CO. You can download the show to listen for yourself by clicking here . A...