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News & Notes - 2/6/08

  • James Pearson, who is better known on this site for having flashed 3 V13 boulder problems, recently returned to the Gritstone of the UK to establish a new E10 route on the Cratcliffe Groove. You can download a video preview of Pearson working the route by clicking here. It doesn't sound like falling from the crux V12 crux would be all that fun:
Dave Brown, who filmed Pearson on the route for Hot Aches, said The Groove has two cruxes, with the four-move first crux being the most dangerous. “There is gear in the break, but we carefully measured the length of the fall from the end of the dyno, and the belayer needs to take in about five feet to avoid the climber hitting the ground,” he said. “Doesn’t sound [like] much to take in, but it would have to be split-second.”

James Pearson on The Groove (E10 7b)

Pearson on The Groove

© David Simmonite Photography

A lifetime of hard problems...unless you are Dani Andrada

  • You may have seen this photo of Kevin Jorgeson scampering up the gigantic east face of Grandpa Peabody in the Golden Piton edition of Climbing. Check out this post from the photographer, one Andrew Mann, where he explains how he captured this awesome image.

Kevin Jorgeson lives on a different planet...

  • I hadn't really posted much about the latest climbing movie "Spray" that came out recently. I'm not really sure why, the concept and locations look very cool. Anyway, you can read a review of last week's premier at the Boulder Theatre and check out SprayMovie.com for more info on ordering. Here is the trailer:

SPRAY TrailerWatch on youtube

And finally...
Alpinist Fire T-ShirtThere was recently a very large fire at the Alpinist Magazine warehouse, destroying everything inside. You can now purchase somewhat humorous T-Shirts that poke fun at the cause of the fire (forklift ramming a gas pipe) and help a good cause at the same time. Every T-shirt sold means another $3 donated to the Access Fund!

Legacy discussion

6 comments

  1. Tony

    That route looks intense, I can't believe he uses that tiny pebble.

  2. Climbing Narcissist

    Yes, it is quite a testament to the rock quality that a "hold" that small and pebbly actually stays on the wall. Pretty insane looking climbing although it doesn't look all that fun.

  3. Tony

    What are the two pictures on the right of the banner?

  4. Climbing Narcissist

    One is from when I was in Alaska and the other is you at the Dodge on the boulder we warmed up on.

  5. Tony

    Woah, totally didn't recognize myself or the dodge.

  6. Ryan

    I am super excited for the movie spray. There tour is coming to Salt Lake next week and I can't wait to check it out. I will be writing a full review of the movie on my climbing site (http://www.rock-climbing-for-life.com) for anyone who is interested.