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Traditional Climbing

Fabi Buhl im Portrait | Vom Boulderspezialisten zum Allrounder
March 30, 2015

Fabian Buhl Portrait

Fabi Buhl im Portrait | Vom Boulderspezialisten zum Allrounder Watch on vimeo

Emily Harrington - Training For Your Goals
March 20, 2015

Emily Harrington - Training For Your Goals

Emily Harrington - Training For Your Goals Watch on youtube

March 12, 2015

The Dawn Wall Interviews

Cool, interactive piece from Climbing on the Dawn Wall featuring interviews with both Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell. I particularly liked this quote from Tommy about why he is...

Ontario Climbing, A Season 2014
March 9, 2015

Ontario Climbing, A Season 2014

Ontario Climbing, A Season 2014 Watch on vimeo

Bromancing The Stone (5.10+) - A Red Rock Canyon First Ascent
February 9, 2015

Bromancing The Stone

Bromancing The Stone (5.10+) - A Red Rock Canyon First Ascent Watch on vimeo

The Recovery Drink
January 29, 2015

Nico Favresse Climbing The Recovery Drink

The Recovery Drink Watch on vimeo

January 20, 2015

Fear Of Falling

One story that re-emerged during the big Dawn Wall push was this incredible story from 2000 when a young Tommy Caldwell, along with Beth Rodden, John Dickey and Jason Smith, was ab...

Tommy Caldwell Climbing Pitch 15 | The Dawn Wall | Patagonia
January 19, 2015

Tommy Caldwell Climbing Pitch 15 | The Dawn Wall

Tommy Caldwell Climbing Pitch 15 | The Dawn Wall | Patagonia Watch on youtube

valleyuprising
January 15, 2015

Valley Uprising Now Available On Demand

Watch Sender Films' Valley Uprising On Demand

January 15, 2015

"It's Really A Lifestyle"

T0mmy Caldwell, being interviewed by the New York Time minutes after topping out the Dawn Wall: I would love for this to open people’s minds to what an amazing sport this is. I thi...

January 14, 2015

Watch Dawn Wall Finish Live

Watch the final moments of the Dawn Wall free climb live

January 14, 2015

New York Times Profiles Tommy Caldwell

John Branch also profiled Tommy Caldwell for the New York Times : Whatever part inside of Tommy Caldwell that made him attempt the seemingly impossible — a free climb of El Capitan...

January 14, 2015

New York Times Profiles Kevin Jorgeson

John Branch has been doing some really good pieces about the Dawn Wall for the New York Times , and this profile on Kevin Jorgeson is no exception. Of note is Jorgeson's comments o...

January 7, 2015

Tommy Caldwell Completes Last 5.14 Pitch Of Dawn Wall

Tommy Caldwell completes the final 5.14 pitch of the Dawn Wall

January 5, 2015

Dawn Wall Project Goes Mainstream

The efforts by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson to free climb a route up El Capitan's Dawn Wall is really blowing up with much of the climbing world and now even the New York Time...

Fire Pillaren: Four Pillars of Lofoten
December 10, 2014

Fire Pillaren: Four Pillars of Lofoten

Fire Pillaren: Four Pillars of Lofoten Watch on vimeo

Fixe Hardware's Alien Evolution
November 29, 2014

Fixe Hardware's Alien Evolution

Fixe Hardware's Alien Evolution Watch on vimeo

Family Man
November 14, 2014

Family Man

Family Man Watch on vimeo

Leslie Timms climbs Dead Raibéad
November 11, 2014

Leslie Timms Climbs Dead Raibéad (5.12+)

Leslie Timms climbs Dead Raibéad Watch on youtube

jorg_great_roof
November 7, 2014

Jorg Verhoeven Frees The Nose

Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven becomes only the 4th person to free climb The Nose on Yosemite's El Capitan

Rocklands: a trad diary by James Pearson & Caroline Ciavalidini
November 4, 2014

Rocklands: A Trad Diary By James Pearson & Caroline Ciavalidini

Rocklands: a trad diary by James Pearson & Caroline Ciavalidini Watch on youtube

AUGMENTIUM (30, 8a+) - A Trad First Ascent in Tasmania
October 23, 2014

Augmentium (5.13c) - A Trad First Ascent

AUGMENTIUM (30, 8a+) - A Trad First Ascent in Tasmania Watch on youtube

PsychoGramm - Alex Luger
October 1, 2014

PsychoGramm - Alex Luger - 5.14a Trad

PsychoGramm - Alex Luger Watch on youtube

3824
September 19, 2014

Three 8's In A Day

3824 Watch on vimeo

Muy Caliente!
September 18, 2014

Tim Emmett In Muy Caliente

Muy Caliente! Watch on vimeo

Misty Mountain's Leif Carter Climbs The Broach (5.11d) at Ship Rock, North Carolina
September 17, 2014

Leif Carter Climbs The Broach (5.11d) At Ship Rock, North Carolina

Misty Mountain's Leif Carter Climbs The Broach (5.11d) at Ship Rock, North Carolina Watch on youtube

Jason Haas - The Weekend Warrior
September 8, 2014

Jason Haas - The Weekend Warrior

Jason Haas - The Weekend Warrior Watch on vimeo

INERTIA 2: Focus
September 5, 2014

INERTIA 2: Focus

INERTIA 2: Focus Watch on youtube

To Yosemite, With Love
August 20, 2014

To Yosemite, With Love

To Yosemite, With Love Watch on vimeo

Rock Climbing Classics | EP#5 Grand Illusion 8a
July 23, 2014

Rock Climbing Classics - EP #5 Grand Illusion (5.13b)

Rock Climbing Classics | EP#5 Grand Illusion 8a Watch on youtube

July 23, 2014

1975

Sonnie Trotter : In 1975 three Rockies legends scoured The Bow Valley in search of the next great aid line. At the time, they were preparing themselves for a very early repeat of t...

July 17, 2014

7 In 7

Dave Allfrey, writing for Alpinist about his and Alex Honnold's recent efforts to climb El Capitan seven times in seven consecutive days: In the end I believe we found what we were...

July 3, 2014

3rd Free Ascent Of PreMuir By Elias & Kerzhner

Rock & Ice caught up with Sam Elias after he and Mike Kerzhner did the 3rd free ascent of PreMuir (5.13+) on El Capitan in Yosemite, CA: He fired it . Then, so did I. It wasn’t rom...

Color Blind
June 26, 2014

Paul Nelson Climbing Color Blind (5.13 trad)

Color Blind Watch on youtube

June 25, 2014

Nalle Hukkataival Climbs Hard Multipitch

Not content with climbing the hardest boulder problems in the world, Nalle Hukkataival decided to get in the multipitch game with a free ascent of the route Silbergeier in Rätikon,...

VALLEY UPRISING -- Official Trailer
June 17, 2014

Trailer: Valley Uprising

VALLEY UPRISING -- Official Trailer Watch on youtube

Super Sketchy E9 On UK Sea Cliff - Hazel Findlay
June 9, 2014

Hazel Findlay - Spice Girl - First Female E9

Super Sketchy E9 On UK Sea Cliff - Hazel Findlay Watch on youtube

Classic Finger Crack Climbing at Red Rock Canyon: Dave Allfrey climbing Seduction Line 5.12a
May 28, 2014

Dave Allfrey - Seduction Line (5.12a)

Classic Finger Crack Climbing at Red Rock Canyon: Dave Allfrey climbing Seduction Line 5.12a Watch on youtube

Lucky Monkey
May 19, 2014

Lucky Monkey

Lucky Monkey Watch on vimeo

Border Lands  |  Episode 2
May 13, 2014

Border Lands - Episode 2

Border Lands | Episode 2 Watch on vimeo

May 7, 2014

The Day Tommy Caldwell Sent The Salathe Wall In A Day

Great piece by Tommy Caldwell about how he climbed El Cap's Salathe Wall in a day just months after losing his finger in a home improvement accident: But in the blink of an eye, it...

May 1, 2014

Sufferfest 2

Climbing.com has a nice report on the recent "Sufferfest 2" undertaken by Alex Honnold & Cedar Wright: Now they have completed Sufferfest 2, a 700-mile ride through Canyonlands in...

April 30, 2014

Musta Been High

Heather Weidner, writing on her blog about her recent repeat of the notorious trad line Musta Been High (5.13 R) in Eldorado Canyon: Some might say I Musta Been High to climb this...

lostvalley
April 24, 2014

The Lost Valley

Where does a journey begin and end? Off the grid in Patagonia the stakes are high. Consequence and weather are constant travel companions on the way to sending La Vuelta de los Con...

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March 31, 2014

Border Lands - Episode 1

In the summer of 2013, Mike Libecki, Ethan Pringle, and Liv Sansoz traveled to the remote Tian Shan Mountains near the border of China and Kyrgyzstan. The team traveled though dese...

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March 12, 2014

Impossible Invitation - Kevin Jorgeson

A look into the life of Kevin Jorgeson and his impossible invitation to free the hardest unclimbed big wall route in the word. Directed & Filmed by: Andy Mann & Keith Ladzinski Edi...

goodmanguncontrol
March 4, 2014

Pat Goodman - Athlete Spotlight - Gun Control 5.13c

La Sportiva athlete Pat Goodman discusses some of the ethics and considerations that need to be taken while establishing new routes. Meanwhile, enjoy watching him send "Gun Control...

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January 8, 2014

The Dawn Wall: Episode 12

Winter finally shuts down Jorgesen and Caldwell’s 2013 season, their eighth on the Dawn Wall Project. With “the hardest pitch in Yosemite” ticked, and only two remaining leads to r...

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January 3, 2014

The Dawn Wall: Episode 11

"The hardest pitch in Yosemite goes down." Desperately trying to outrun winter, Tommy Caldwell returns (after a three-week injury layoff) and redpoints pitch 15 at 5.14d. Only pitc...

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December 20, 2013

The Dawn Wall: Episode 7

Kevin wages an all-out assault on the first traverse pitch (pitch 14, 5.14). After many days spread over five years, he finally can execute and link all the moves, and will soon be...

December 18, 2013

Caldwell Frees (A) Crux Pitch On Dawn Wall Project

Tommy Caldwell finally frees one of the crux pitches on the Dawn Wall project

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December 18, 2013

The Dawn Wall: Episode 6

One-thousand feet up the wall, at hanging “Basecamp 1,” Kevin assesses his progress, declaring that, “We can do this thing!” Lyrical action footage strikes his narration to life.

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December 16, 2013

The Dawn Wall: Episode 5

Adidas athlete Carlo Traversi joins Kevin Jorgesen as he does work on the first 5.14 traversing pitch, roughly 1,500 feet up the wall. Can Kevin unlock the sequence on these critic...

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December 13, 2013

The Dawn Wall: Episode 4

With Tommy Caldwell sidelined with a rib injury, Adidas athlete Kevin Jorgesen perseveres on his attempt to free climb the Dawn Wall Project. Recruiting reliable belayers is sure t...

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December 10, 2013

The Dawn Wall: Episode 3

Tommy Caldwell suffers a painful rib injury when a haulbag connected to his harness falls 200 feet. After receiving treatment in the Yosemite clinic, Caldwell heads back to Colorad...

December 10, 2013

The Nose Wipe

Dave Campbell, as to why he got involved in the annual clean up effort on El Cap appropriately named "The Nose Wipe": Yvon Chouinard sums it up well in the movie 180° South : “The...

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December 5, 2013

The Dawn Wall: Episode 2

Dawn Wall veterans Kevin Jorgesen and Tommy Caldwell are joined by sport climber Chris Sharma. The trio warm up on the lower pitches, then take a run at the first crux: An "eight-a...

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December 5, 2013

The Dawn Wall: Episode 1

Adidas Outdoor USA athlete Kevin Jorgeson schlepps loads and fixes ropes on El Capitan prior to his free attempt on the Dawn Wall: "The hardest route never climbed."

December 3, 2013

Leslie Timms Repeats Sacred Geometry (5.13c)

Somewhat of a quiet season down in the Red River Gorge this fall, especially compared to last year , but one notable thing that caught my eye was this excellent post by Leslie Timm...

jphypot
November 11, 2013

JP Ouellet - Athlete Spotlight - Hypothenuse (5.13c)

With plans to travel to the Trango Valley foiled by terrorism and violence, JP "PeeWee" Ouellet decides to remain in Quebec to take care of old business. The result is the FA of Hy...

whittaker_barongreenback
November 8, 2013

Pete Whittaker - 1st Ascent Baron Greenback (E9/10 7a)

Pete Whittaker’s ascent of Baron Greenback, E9/10 7a, at Wimberry in May of this year was not only one of 2013’s best ascents but resulted in one of the Uk’s hardest routes, period...

November 7, 2013

The Nose In A Day And Freerider In 3

Hazel Findlay, after doing her third free route on El Cap: Having freed three lines on El Cap now, with Freerider supposedly the easiest, I have to say that there really isn’t an e...

November 7, 2013

Dawn Wall 2013: So You're Telling Me There's A Chance

Don't write off the 2013 Dawn Wall season just yet...

November 2, 2013

Tommy Caldwell Injured, Off Dawn Wall Project

Tommy Caldwell, writing on The Facebook : Disaster strikes! Haul bag took a 200 plunge while clipped to the back of my harness. Hauling hook fail. It was a bit jarring. Looks like...

October 30, 2013

2013 Dawn Wall Season Thus Far

Photo updates from Kevin Jorgeson of the first two weeks of Dawn Wall 2013 with Tommy Caldwell and Chris Sharma

The Holy War - Pamela Shanti Pack
October 24, 2013

The Holy War - Pamela Shanti Pack

The Holy War - Pamela Shanti Pack Watch on youtube

Exposure Vol 1 Trailer
October 21, 2013

Exposure Vol 1 Trailer

Exposure Vol 1 Trailer Watch on youtube

October 7, 2013

More On Wide Boys' Cobra Crack Send

Really enjoyed this piece on The RV Project about the process behind Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker both repeating Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish, BC: Tom and Pete will be the firs...

Jenn Flemming in DevilsTower: National Parks Epic Challenge
October 7, 2013

Jenn Fleming In Devils Tower

Jenn Flemming in DevilsTower: National Parks Epic Challenge Watch on vimeo

October 1, 2013

Chris Sharma To Join Dawn Wall Team

So... this is happening (maybe...hopefully) : Chris Sharma will join Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, and Jonathan Siegrist for this fall's attempts on the Dawn Wall , a multi-year...

September 25, 2013

5.14 On Mt. Hooker

20 miles from the road, David Alfrey, Nik Berry and Mason Earle put up a free route on Wyoming's Mt. Hooker with difficulties up to 5.14a: "The rock is incredible for alpine stone,...

Hoy Boys
September 24, 2013

Hoy Boys

Hoy Boys Watch on vimeo

September 23, 2013

Taming The Cobra

Nice piece by Brits Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker about their successful ascents of Sonnie Trotter's Cobra Crack (5.14-) in Squamish, BC: So where does this leave us, three weeks...

First Free Ascent in Yosemite, The Liberty Project | Cedar Wright Climbing Reels, Ep. 3
September 19, 2013

First Free Ascent in Yosemite, The Liberty Project | Cedar Wright Climbing Reels, Ep. 3

First Free Ascent in Yosemite, The Liberty Project | Cedar Wright Climbing Reels, Ep. 3 Watch on youtube

September 17, 2013

El Cap Report Returns For Fall 2013 Season

It's baaaaack : So take a break Cupcakes, Cubicle Pukes, Internet Climbers, and get ready for today’s report … ditch the kids, the spouse, the pets… because this is your time to he...

Diamond in the Rain, Climbing at Its Most Difficult | Exposed, Ep. 3
September 12, 2013

Diamond In The Rain, Climbing At Its Most Difficult | Exposed, Ep. 3

Diamond in the Rain, Climbing at Its Most Difficult | Exposed, Ep. 3 Watch on youtube

The North Face La Reunion Expedition
September 10, 2013

The North Face La Reunion Expedition

The North Face La Reunion Expedition Watch on youtube

Reel Rock 8 Official Trailer
September 5, 2013

Trailer: Reel Rock 8

Reel Rock 8 Official Trailer Watch on youtube

Tommy Caldwell on The Dunn-Westbay, 5.14 at nearly 14,000 feet
August 23, 2013

Tommy Caldwell Working New Free Line On The Diamond

Tommy Caldwell on The Dunn-Westbay, 5.14 at nearly 14,000 feet Watch on vimeo

August 22, 2013

Caldwell, Mills Climb First 5.14 On The Diamond

Impressive: Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills have redpointed the first 5.14 route up the Diamond on Longs Peak, the premier granite wall in Colorado's high mountains. The two free-clim...

August 8, 2013

The Almighty

Jonathan Siegrist writes about his experience repeating a mixed route called The Almight y (5.14a) in Teton Canyon, WY that was first done by local Ty Mack in 2011 : This is one of...

July 30, 2013

Spirits Of Asgard

vimeo video Watch on vimeo

Matt Wilder - Athlete Spotlight "Eye of the Beholder"
July 10, 2013

Matt Wilder - Eye Of The Beholder

Matt Wilder - Athlete Spotlight "Eye of the Beholder" Watch on youtube

June 26, 2013

Rescue On Leaning Tower

Since there was a fair bit of bad news from Yosemite this season it's nice to see this bonus El Cap Report detail the successful rescue of a climber off of the Leaning Tower: It st...

Nathan Lee. Appointment With Death.
June 19, 2013

Nathan Lee Repeating Appointment With Death

Nathan Lee. Appointment With Death. Watch on vimeo

Massive Ground Fall, Emmett Hits the Deck! Year of the Snake - Tim Emmett Diaries
June 16, 2013

Tim Emmett Climbing Year Of The Snake (5.13b R)

Massive Ground Fall, Emmett Hits the Deck! Year of the Snake - Tim Emmett Diaries Watch on youtube

June 13, 2013

Mapping Yosemite's Granite

Fascinating study being done by Roger Putnam on the different types of granite that make up the most famous granite formation in the world: To get a more complete and detailed pict...

June 13, 2013

"Well, we didn't"

Emily Harrington with a very honest look back on a trip she took to Morocco to climb with Hazel Findlay for the 2013 Reel Rock Film Tour: I had never climbed a big wall like that b...

June 6, 2013

New Free Route On Liberty Cap

Since I've only been posting bad news out of Yosemite, it seems like now would be a good time to post about something good like this new free route on Liberty Cap established by Lu...

June 6, 2013

More On Muir Wall Accident

Chris Van Leuven, in an excellent account of the accident that killed Mason Robinson on El Cap's Muir Wall a few weeks ago: Mason Robinson attended Columbia Falls High School and w...

June 4, 2013

Another Death On El Capitan

More bad news from the flanks of El Capitan: A twenty eight year old climber died in a rock climbing accident on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park yesterday afternoon, Sunday, J...

Salathe - El Capitan, Yosemite
May 29, 2013

Salathe - El Capitan, Yosemite

Salathe - El Capitan, Yosemite Watch on vimeo

May 28, 2013

Favresse Frees Hard Crack Project In Norway

Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse has done the FA of The Recovery Drink in Jossingfjord, Norway, calling it his hardest crack climb yet 1 : I sent the pitch placing gear on lead exc...

A Day On The Diamond
May 24, 2013

A Day On The Diamond With Josh Wharton

A Day On The Diamond Watch on vimeo

May 21, 2013

Tragic Death On El Capitan

Tragic news from high on El Cap this past Sunday : An experienced climber, Mason Robison was leading the 27th pitch of the 3,000-foot granite wall at about 9 a.m., when a large roc...

May 14, 2013

5.14 Trad Ascent By James Pearson

A few weeks old, but this a nice report by James Pearson about his efforts to do the 2nd ascent of an old 5.14 sport route in La Balma, Switzerland called A Denti Tretti on natural...

May 7, 2013

Unfinished Business

Steve Bechtel, writing about a first ascent that was done in Wyoming recently: When Micah first walked up to the climb last year, the face had already been bolted. There were ancho...

May 7, 2013

Climbing Banned On Basalt Columns In Armenia

Bad news for anyone psyched about making the trip to Armenia to climb on the incredibly unique looking basalt columns that were on the cover of Rock & Ice a few years back: By this...

Free the Titan
April 23, 2013

Will Stanhope Freeing The Finger Of Fate On The Titan

Free the Titan Watch on vimeo

35
April 9, 2013

35

35 Watch on vimeo

The Long Hope (2011) | Trailer | Dave MacLeod
December 1, 2011

Trailer: The Long Hope

The Long Hope (2011) | Trailer | Dave MacLeod Watch on youtube

November 28, 2011

Trotter Does First Repeat Of The Prophet (5.13d R)

Tommy Caldwell wasn't the only person hard at work on the flanks of El Capitan this fall

Leo Houlding on El Capitan
November 28, 2011

Psyche II Excerpt - Leo Houlding On The Prophet

Leo Houlding on El Capitan Watch on youtube

The Season 2.20...Lurking Fear
November 21, 2011

The Season 2 Episode 20: Lurking Fear

The Season 2.20...Lurking Fear Watch on vimeo

Wideboyz climb Century Crack
November 15, 2011

Teaser: Wide Boys Climb Century Crack

Wideboyz climb Century Crack Watch on vimeo

November 14, 2011

Caldwell's Dawn Wall Push Over...For Now

In an update on his Facebook page yesterday Tommy Caldwell indicated that he's given up the hope of completing his Dawn Wall project in a single push, instead opting to go down to...

November 8, 2011

Caldwell Matches Previous Highpoint On Dawn Wall Project

Tommy Caldwell's push to free a new route up El Capitan's Dawn Wall is 10 days old now and the events over the weekend were really something.

November 4, 2011

Tommy Caldwell Explains His New Approach To Sharing Dawn Wall Updates

Tommy Caldwell has freed the first 11 pitches of his Dawn Wall project and is now working on pitch 12. Of course, you already knew this if you've been following the updates and pic...

The Season 2.14...El Cap dreaming
November 2, 2011

The Season 2 Episode 14: El Cap Dreaming

The Season 2.14...El Cap dreaming Watch on vimeo

November 1, 2011

Dawn Wall Push Underway

The push is on for Tommy Caldwell to free his Dawn Wall project on El Cap, this time without injured partner Kevin Jorgeson

October 27, 2011

5.14 Trad By Yuji Hirayama During Visit To Italy

PlanetMountain has a report from Yuji Hirayama about a recent visit to Italy that included a second try ascent of the trad line Greenspit (5.14-).

Lander Rock Climbing
October 24, 2011

Lander Rock Climbing

Lander Rock Climbing Watch on vimeo

The Season 2.11...A Choice
October 20, 2011

The Season 2: Episode 11

The Season 2.11...A Choice Watch on vimeo

October 19, 2011

Dawn Wall 2011

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson returned to Yosemite late last month to resume work on their Dawn Wall project . Unfortunately, Kevin has been sidelined, at least temporarily, by...

October 11, 2011

Interview With Mayan Smith-Gobat After Freeing Salathé Wall

An interview with New Zealand's Mayan Smith-Gobat after she freed the Salathé Wall on El Capitan

October 4, 2011

5.14 Trad FA By Pete Kamitses

Climberism reports that Pete Kamitses has done the FA of Oppositional Defiance Disorder , a traditionally protected 5.14 in New York's Adirondacks. Climbing.com caught up with Kami...

The Season Episode 2.6...The Fall
October 4, 2011

The Season 2: Episode 6

The Season Episode 2.6...The Fall Watch on vimeo

September 27, 2011

More Solos In Yosemite By Alex Honnold - Updated

Alex Honnold is back at it in Yosemite, running up routes big and small without a rope

September 16, 2011

El Cap Report Returns...Again

After a brief retirement , the El Cap Report is back for the fall season ! Yo… Yep the Report is back!!! Friends of YOSAR have agreed to let me use their internet connection, which...

It begins...The Season 2.1
September 10, 2011

The Season 2: Episode 1

It begins...The Season 2.1 Watch on vimeo

REEL ROCK 6 Official Trailer (2011)
September 6, 2011

Trailer: 2011 Reel Rock Film Tour

REEL ROCK 6 Official Trailer (2011) Watch on youtube

Arnaud Petit climbs "Black Bean" 8b with natural pro in Ceüse
September 5, 2011

Arnaud Petit Climbing Black Bean (5.13d) In Céüse On Gear

Arnaud Petit climbs "Black Bean" 8b with natural pro in Ceüse Watch on youtube

GORE-TEX Experience Tour climbers completed new route in Norway
August 29, 2011

Dave MacLeod FFA Of Bongo Bar In Norway

GORE-TEX Experience Tour climbers completed new route in Norway Watch on youtube

August 17, 2011

News & Notes - 8/17/2011

News & Notes from Jonathan Siegrist, 5.14d and V14 in a week by Jorg Verhoeven, a hard mult-pitch gets repeated and MUCH more...

On Assignment
August 17, 2011

Jimmy Chin On Assignment In Yosemite

On Assignment Watch on vimeo

August 16, 2011

New 5.13+ Multipitch By Trotter & Caldwell In Canada

Sonnie Trotter and Tommy Caldwell have teamed up to establish a 15 pitch route up the Diamond Face on Mount Louis in the Canadian Rockies. Dubbed The Shining , the route has 7 pitc...

August 12, 2011

Honnold Repeats Cobra Crack

Via his 8a.nu scorecard comes word that Alex Honnold has repeated the 5.14 trad route Cobra Crack in Squamish, BC. First done in the summer of 2006 by Sonnie Trotter , Cobra Crack...

July 27, 2011

Difficult Wyoming Crack Climb Sees 2nd Ascent

Black Diamond has a nice report with pictures from Andrew Burr about J.P "Pee Wee" Oullete's 2nd ascent of Home On The Range , a difficult crack in Vedauwoo, WY first climbed by Ju...

TOWERS OF THE ENNEDI
July 25, 2011

The North Face: Towers of the Ennedi

TOWERS OF THE ENNEDI Watch on vimeo

ARC'TERYX: The Adamants "What Can Go Wrong, Will Go Wrong"
July 11, 2011

Tony Lamprecht Epicing In Canada

ARC'TERYX: The Adamants "What Can Go Wrong, Will Go Wrong" Watch on vimeo

June 29, 2011

Longhope Direct: 5.14ish Trad FA By Dave MacLeod

After years of sporadic work Dave MacLeod has finished off the first free ascent of Longhope Direct on St. John's Head in Orkney, Scotland

June 15, 2011

Final El Cap Report

After a 5 year run Tom Evans is pulling the plug on his daily reports from El Capitan in Yosemite

June 7, 2011

John Bachar's Training Journals

I don't remember where it was I saw this but a few weeks back someone shared this link to an interesting blog post that went through a few days from John Bachar's training journals

Navajolands - A week on the rez
June 2, 2011

Navajolands - A Week On The Rez

Navajolands - A week on the rez Watch on vimeo

June 1, 2011

News & Notes - 6/1/2011

News & Notes from Ethan Pringle, Nina Caprez, Carlo Traversi, Jimmy Webb, potential problems with the GriGri 2 and much more...

May 27, 2011

Full FFA Of Hallucinogen Wall In Colorado's Black Canyon

PlanetMountain has an interview with Austrian Hansjörg Auer on the heels of his FFA of Hallucinogen Wall (5.13+ R) in Colorado's Black Canyon. The route had been done mostly free b...

Women at Work Part #2
May 24, 2011

Women At Work In The Cirque Of The Unclimbables #2

Women at Work Part #2 Watch on vimeo

Lost Arrow Spire, Tyrolean Traverse
May 22, 2011

Lost Arrow Spire Tyrolean

Lost Arrow Spire, Tyrolean Traverse Watch on vimeo

Peter Croft and Lisa Rands Climb 10 Pitch 5.12+ on The Incredible Hulk, CA
May 17, 2011

Peter Croft & Lisa Rand In Origins: The Hulk

Peter Croft and Lisa Rands Climb 10 Pitch 5.12+ on The Incredible Hulk, CA Watch on youtube

May 16, 2011

El Cap Report Returns For 2011

Tom Evans is back at his usual spot on the bridge beneath El Cap in Yosemite, CA, posting photos and updates for all to enjoy !

James Pearson goes back to Trad climbing
May 13, 2011

James Pearson Goes Back To Trad Climbing

James Pearson goes back to Trad climbing Watch on youtube

Scott Deputy on Separate Reality
May 12, 2011

Separate Reality

Scott Deputy on Separate Reality Watch on vimeo

Women at Work Part #1
May 11, 2011

Women At Work In The Cirque Of The Unclimbables

Women at Work Part #1 Watch on vimeo

The Scene Official Trailer
May 6, 2011

Trailer For Chuck Fryberger's Upcoming Movie The Scene

The Scene Official Trailer Watch on vimeo

Hardest of the Alps
May 4, 2011

Pou Brothers On The Hardest Of The Alps

Hardest of the Alps Watch on vimeo

May 3, 2011

Mason Earle Frees Hard Crack In Indian Creek

Via Sender Films come news that Mason Earle climbed what he considers to be his hardest desert crack yet when he was the first to free the 2nd pitch of Hot Pork Sunday in Indian Cr...

April 27, 2011

News & Notes - 4/27/2011

A few News & Notes from Nik Berry, Daniel Woods, Adam Ondra, the Petzl Roc Trip China, a new iPhone app guidebook for Joshua Tree and more

April 26, 2011

Nat Geo Shines The Spotlight On Yosemite's "Superclimbers"

Climbing in Yosemite takes center-stage in the May 2011 issue of National Geographic Magazine

The Matadors and El Capitan
April 26, 2011

The Matadors And El Capitan

The Matadors and El Capitan Watch on vimeo

All That Glitters 5.12+
April 6, 2011

Leslie Timms Climbing All That Glitters (5.12c) At The Red River Gorge

All That Glitters 5.12+ Watch on vimeo

Devil's Wedding
April 5, 2011

Alpine Trad In Slovakia

Devil's Wedding Watch on vimeo

March 7, 2011

Alpinist's Speed Climbing Series

Alpinist recently interviewed Alex Honnold, Dean Potter and Sean Leary for a series on speed climbing

March 1, 2011

More From Tommy Caldwell On Climbing In Keketuohai

More from Tommy Caldwell's trip to the "Tuolumne of China", China's Keketuohai National Geological Park

Learning to Fly
February 1, 2011

Steph Davis On Learning To Fly In Indian Creek

Learning to Fly Watch on vimeo

THE PATH
January 10, 2011

Sonnie Trotter Climbing The Path (5.14 R)

THE PATH Watch on vimeo

December 9, 2010

Alex Honnold Up For Nat Geo's Adventurer Of The Year

Alex Honnold is nominated for National Geographic's Adventurer Of The Year and news from his expedition to Chad with James Pearson, Mark Synnott, Jimmy Chin, Renan Ozturk and Tim K...

December 2, 2010

Hard Trad FAs At The New River Gorge By Goodman & Wilder

Pat Goodman and Matt Wilder pull off 2 hard trad FAs in West Virginia's New River Gorge with Chuck Fryberger on hand to capture the sends for his upcoming movie The Scene

November 22, 2010

Caldwell & Jorgeson's Dawn Wall Push Ends...For This Year

Tommy Calwell and Kevin Jorgeson's attempt to free a new route on El Capitan's Dawn Wall comes to an early end

Tommy Caldwell in a Portaledge on El Capitan Talking about free climbing Mescalito
November 19, 2010

Caldwell & Jorgeson's Dawn Wall Push Nears End Of Week 1

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's push to free a new line on El Capitan's Dawn Wall is 6 days old now. When we last checked in with the duo on Tuesday morning they had finished P...

November 16, 2010

More Updates From The Dawn Wall

A brief update after the first 3 days of Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's push up a new free route on El Capitan's Dawn Wall

November 14, 2010

Push Begins On El Cap For Caldwell & Jorgeson

After years of hard work and preparation Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson set off yesterday morning to attempt a ground up send of their project on El Capitan's Dawn Wall

November 12, 2010

Video Friday: The Bachar-Yerian

A little runout climbing on the Bachar-Yerian to get your palms sweating on this Friday

November 8, 2010

New Speed Record On The Nose By Potter And Leary

According to SuperTopo and Speedclimb.com Dean Potter and Sean Leary teamed up to set a new speed record for climbing The Nose on El Capitan. The pair blazed up the wall in at an a...

November 2, 2010

Alex Honnold & Will Stanhope Team Up To Repeat Southern Belle

Alex Honnold & Will Stanhope teamed up to repeat Southern Belle, one of the most notoriously runout routes in all of Yosemite

November 1, 2010

New Free Route On El Cap

Leo Holding and Jason Pickles add a new free route to Yosemite's El Capitan

October 21, 2010

Sailing, Jamming And Climbing On The West Coast Of Greenland

Nicolas Favresee, Sean Villanueva, Olivier Favresee and Ben Ditto spent their summer sailing up and down the west coast of Greenland climbing some amazing new big walls

October 20, 2010

The Season Begins For Tommy Caldwell & Kevin Jorgeson On El Cap

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson are back in Yosemite for the Fall season to have another go at their well documented project on El Capitan's Dawn Wall

October 15, 2010

Brian Kim Repeats Iron Monkey (5.14) In Eldorado Canyon

Deadpoint Magazine reports that Brian Kim made a rare repeat of the trad testpiece Iron Monkey (5.14) in Eldorado Canyon, CO. First done by Matt Segal in 2006, Iron Monkey climbs a...

September 22, 2010

More On Tommy Caldwell's China Trip

More details and pictures from Tommy Caldwell's recent trip to China

September 21, 2010

News & Notes - 09/21/2010

News & Notes from the European Championships, Alex Honnold, Steve Wempler and more

September 16, 2010

Tommy Caldwell & Crew Explore The "Tuolumne Of China"

What happens when Tommy Caldwell rallies a crew to the far reaches of China to climb in an area where noone has ever been allowed to climb...

Colin Haley Tracing the Edge 1/3
September 8, 2010

News & Notes – 9/8/2010

News & Notes from Adam Ondra, Brent Perkins, Phil Schaal, Black Diamond and MUCH more...

August 23, 2010

Weekend News

A few notable sends that caught my eye recently and sad news from the Alps...

August 18, 2010

Alex Honnold's Half Dome/El Cap Solo Link-up In His Own Words

Alex Honnold shares with the Black Diamond Journal how he went about soloing Half Dome and El Capitan in a half day push

August 9, 2010

4 In A Day On The Chief

Will Stanhope and Alex Honnold teamed up the other week to free 4 routes on the Chief in Squamish in a sub 14 hour push. Read Stanhope's report on his blog .

August 3, 2010

News & Notes – 08/03/2010

News & Notes from Dave Graham, Alex Honnold, the Pou brothers, another new 5.14 in Utah, more World Cups coming to North America and more...

Ladies of Lurking Fear
June 29, 2010

Ladies of Lurking Fear

Ladies of Lurking Fear Watch on vimeo

June 23, 2010

Another Nice Day For Alex Honnold In Yosemite

What did you do yesterday?? I think I might have climbed 500 ft. at the gym over the course of a couple of hours. Alex Honnold, on the other hand, had a pretty productive day out...

Arms Bazaar with Nellie Milfeld
June 16, 2010

Nellie Milfeld Attempting "Arms Bazzar" (5.12a R)

Arms Bazaar with Nellie Milfeld Watch on vimeo

June 3, 2010

Sonnie Trotter Back In Action

After spending the end of last year recovering from a ruptured appendix, Canada's Sonnie Trotter is back in top form again with two notable ascents in the past couple of weeks.

May 26, 2010

News & Notes - 05/26/2010

News & Notes from Jonathan Siegrist, Paige Claasen, Mike Foley, Alex Honnold and more...

May 18, 2010

El Cap Report Back For Spring/Summer 2010

The El Cap Report , a near daily update on who is climbing what on Yosemite's El Capitan replete with close-up photos of climbers on the big stone, is back in action for the season...

May 13, 2010

Near Onsight Of 5.13 Multipitch By Tommy Caldwell

On hiatus for the summer from the Mescalito project, Tommy Caldwell teamed up with Super Topo's Chris McNamara to attempt an onsite of the South Face of Mt. Watkin's (5.13a, 19 pit...

May 12, 2010

Steph Davis: So In Control

vimeo video Watch on vimeo

May 11, 2010

Potential New 5.14b At The New River Gorge

Mike Williams adds a potential new 5.14b to West Virginia's New River Gorge. Updated to also include news of a new hard trad line established at the New by Pat Goodman.

April 23, 2010

Essay On Adam Ondra's Multi-pitch Achievements

Black Diamond has an interesting essay on their journal site that details Adam Ondra's impressive sends in 2008 of WoGü (5.14b, 7 pitches, FFA) and Hotel Supramonte (5.14a, 10 pitc...

April 20, 2010

Climbing Video: Mammut Team Does Hard Grit

Teaser video from a Mammut team trip to the gritstone of England

April 5, 2010

Latest On Mescalito From Kevin Jorgeson

Matador Sports caught up with Kevin Jorgeson to get the latest on the Mescalite free climbing project he's working with Tommy Caldwell

March 25, 2010

Live(ish) From El Cap With Kevin Jorgeson

Yesterday Kevin Jorgeson tried a bit of an experiment while working on that well documented free climbing project on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell. Throughout the day Jorgeson posted...

March 18, 2010

Climbing Videos: Tommy Caldwell & Kevin Jorgeson On El Cap

“It’s a lot of work…and it’s probably not for everybody”, says Tommy Caldwell when describing free climbing a new route on El Capitan in this pair of excellent new videos from Blac...

DIREQUIEM 5.14 R
March 5, 2010

Sonnie Trotter Direquiem (5.14R) FA

DIREQUIEM 5.14 R Watch on vimeo

Kevin Jorgeson - One-Hand Dyno on The Groove, E11 Second Ascent
February 17, 2010

Progression Excerpt: Kevin Jorgeson Climbing On Grit

Kevin Jorgeson - One-Hand Dyno on The Groove, E11 Second Ascent Watch on youtube

February 16, 2010

Hard Crack Freed In Colorado's South Platte

News of a difficult new line in Colorado's South Platte and a spotlight on the Colorado Mountain Journal

Back to the Roots: M.D.M.C.P. a new 5.13 in Indian Creek
December 21, 2009

Cedar Wright And Nick Martino Free “Micah Dash Memorial Choss Pile” (5.13a)

Back to the Roots: M.D.M.C.P. a new 5.13 in Indian Creek Watch on vimeo

December 8, 2009

Climbing Video: Erik Weihenmayer Climbing Blind In Eldorado Canyon

Video of blind climber Erik Weihenmayer climbing The Naked Edge (5.11) in Colorado's Eldorado Canyon to raise awareness for the Access Fund

December 4, 2009

Climbing Video: Matt Segal 5.13 Trad FA In Indian Creek

vimeo video Watch on vimeo

December 2, 2009

Final Mescalito Dispatch Of 2009 From Kevin Jorgeson

In the final dispatch of the season for the Black Diamond blog, Kevin Jorgeson provides an update on his and Tommy Caldwell’s efforts to free a new line on El Cap. The bottom line:...

December 2, 2009

Hard Roof Crack Greenspit Sent First Try By Stevie Haston

The ageless wonder Stevie Haston is making news once again, this time for his first try ascent of Didier Berthod’s well known roof crack Greenspit (hard 5.13ish?). Read all about i...

Sweet Line 5: trad climbing, Le Couteray by Pete mason.
November 30, 2009

Crack Climbing In Chamonix

Sweet Line 5: trad climbing, Le Couteray by Pete mason. Watch on vimeo

November 19, 2009

Tim Kemple Goes Behind The Scenes On El Cap

Tim Kemple has been out in Yosemite capturing media of Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson working their much hyped El Cap free climbing project. In his latest blog post Kemple discu...

October 29, 2009

Day In The Life Of Conrad Anker In Eldorado Canyon

vimeo video Watch on vimeo

zion part 1
October 26, 2009

Freezer Burn In Zion

zion part 1 Watch on youtube

October 23, 2009

2nd Mescalito Update From Kevin Jorgeson

Back from a week off in New York, Kevin Jorgeson provides another update for the Black Diamond Journal about his and Tommy Caldwell’s efforts on El Cap. El Cap report pictures of t...

October 20, 2009

First Mescalito Update From Kevin Jorgeson

Kevin Jorgeson provides an update for the Black Diamond Journal on the first week of his and Tommy Caldwell’s efforts to free a new line up El Capitan.

October 19, 2009

Wheelin N’ Dealin

Matt McCormick survives a few scary falls to open a new R-rated trad climb in New York's Adirondacks

October 19, 2009

New 5.14 Trad Line Near Boulder

Matt Wilder adds a new trad testpiece Cheating Reality (5.14a R) to the Flatirons outside of Boulder, CO

October 6, 2009

The (Partial) Cost Of Freeing El Cap

Kevin Jorgeson had a post on his blog recently where he outlined the packing list for his upcoming attempt to free a new route on El Capitan with Tommy Caldwell. In reading over t...

October 1, 2009

Yuji Hirayama: Older, Wiser…And Still Pretty Strong

40-year-old Yuji Hirayama, the legendary all around climber from Japan, made a trip to British Columbia late this summer. Not surprisingly he left with a couple of notable sends th...

The North Face Presents: Climbing the Pacific Ocean Wall with Dave Hahn
September 15, 2009

Climbing The Pacific Ocean Wall On El Cap w/Dave Hahn, Jimmy Chin, Conrad Anker and Ivo Ninov

The North Face Presents: Climbing the Pacific Ocean Wall with Dave Hahn Watch on vimeo

THE BIZMARK 5.13b
September 14, 2009

Sonnier Trotter Soloing Bizmark (5.13b)

THE BIZMARK 5.13b Watch on vimeo

Epinepherine  Red Rock, Nevada, 5.9
September 8, 2009

Epinepherine At Red Rocks, NV

Epinepherine Red Rock, Nevada, 5.9 Watch on youtube

August 31, 2009

Possible New 5.14 Crack In Vedauwoo

Vedauwoo, WY local Justin Edl has established a contender for the hardest crack climb in the U.S.

August 24, 2009

Climbing Video: Alex Honnold Free Soloing Half Dome

A short film about Alex Honnold's Free Solo of Half Dome

Tommy Caldwell in a Portaledge on El Capitan Talking about free climbing Mescalito
August 21, 2009

Video Of Tommy Caldwell Working On Freeing Mescalito On El Capitan

More on Tommy Caldwell's attempt to free climb Mescalito on El Capitan, including footage of some attempts

August 17, 2009

Climbing Video: Hayden Kennedy On The Bachar-Yerian (5.11c R/X)

Video of Hayden Kennedy climbing the iconic and runout Bachar-Yerian (5.11c X) in Tuolumne

August 14, 2009

Climbing Video: Matt Wilder Sending The Path (5.14 R)

Footage of Matt Wilder doing the 3rd ascent of Sonnie Trotter's The Path (5.14 R) at Lake Louise, Canada

August 13, 2009

Climbing Videos: Alpine Climbing In Canada & Alaska

One of the trends in the online climbing world that's gaining popularity is the self-filmed expedition report. While quality photographs of alpine expeditions make for great eye c...

August 10, 2009

Tuolumne Trip 2009

I originally came up with the idea of going to Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite National Park for a week of climbing long trad routes earlier this year during one of my frequent injury...

July 30, 2009

What's It Like To Climb The Nose In A Day?

There have been a lot of videos made about climbing the Nose on El Cap in a day, most notably Tommy Caldwell in Dosage IV and the insane speed record of Hans Florine and Yuji Hiray...

July 17, 2009

Full Stop

Yesterday I came to a realization that the past 3 years have all followed the same pattern as far as my climbing is concerned. Each of the 3 years began with a roughly 6 month brea...

July 15, 2009

Climbing Videos: Cedar Wright’s Vertical Carnival

I like to think I'm pretty up to speed on most everything that is happening in the online climbing world, but every once in awhile I find that I missed something cool. One such exa...

June 26, 2009

2 Out Of 3 Ain’t Bad For Honnold & Leary

Alex Honnold & Sean Leary "settle" for two routes on El Cap in a day...

June 10, 2009

Alex Honnold News: Fast Free Ascents & Free Solos In Yosemite

Alex Honnold is up to his old tricks in Yosemite Valley

May 8, 2009

Climbing Video: Brian Kim Ground Up On Cybernetic Wall (5.13d)

Via the guys at BassForYourFace comes this video of Brian Kim sending Cybernetic Wall (5.13d) at the Gunks, NY ground up on natural gear.

May 5, 2009

Will Stanhope Does 2nd All Gear Ascent Of East Face Of Monkey Face

Via Jamie Chong's blog comes word that Canadian Will Stanhope has done the 2nd all gear ascent of the iconic East Face (5.13d) of the Monkey Face at Smith Rocks, OR.

April 23, 2009

Climbing Videos: Alex Honnold, Others Big Wall Climbing In Borneo

The way that climbing and technology continues to merge amazes me every day. Take as an example the expedition of Mark Synnott, Conrad Anker, Kevin Thaw, Jimmy Chin, Alex Honnold...

March 12, 2009

Matt Segal Sends New Trad Line "Smart Went Crazy" In Eldo

Matt Segal, who is probably most well known these days for his first free ascent of a route in Eldorado Canyon, CO's Kloof Alcove called Iron Monkey (5.14), recently returned to th...

January 12, 2009

Masters Of Stone VI Preview: Hans & Yuji Nose Speed Record Footage

The sixth installment of the legendary Masters of Stone series of climbing movies is slated to be released this spring. Previous installments have famously chronicled the exploits...

January 6, 2009

Dave MacLeod Repeats “Walk Of Life”

Back in September of 2008, James Pearson made the first ascent of a traditionally protected slab climb in England he dubbed Walk Of Life . At the time, Pearson proposed a grade of...

Alex Honnold Gia Onsight
December 22, 2008

Video: George Ullrich Gaia (E8 6c) Flash Attempt

Check out this incredible video of Brit George Ullrich attempting to flash Gaia.

December 11, 2008

Extremist’s Guide To Devil’s Lake New Climbs

Any climber that has spent time on the quartzite cliffs at Devil’s Lake State Park knows that it has a rich and colorful history. Legends like Fritz Wiessner, John Gill and Pete Cl...

December 8, 2008

News & Notes – 12/08/2008

A few links for your perusal on this Monday...

December 4, 2008

Team America Gritstone Sending Videos

As a follow-up to last week's entry about Team America's exploits in the British gritstone, here are are a series of videos first posted on UKClimbing.com. They feature Alex Honno...

November 20, 2008

Kevin Jorgeson Decks From And Then Sends Gaia (E8), Solos Meshuga (E9)

An interesting bit of news was just posted over at MomentumVM . Kevin Jorgeson , who has been climbing on the Gritstone of England for the past several weeks, was out climbing rece...

Hard Grit
October 26, 2008

Kevin Jorgeson Takes His Bold Skills Overseas

Kevin Jorgeson is best known here in the U.S. for blurring the line between highball bouldering and outright soloing. His notable highball boulder ascents include The Duel (V10 FA)...

Hidden Dragon
October 1, 2008

News & Notes - 10/1/2008

Rocktoberfest is coming soon to the Red River Gorge, Ty Landman repeats Sharma's Practice Of The Wild, James Pearson climbs E12, the Colorado Bouldering guidebook controversy and m...

September 24, 2008

New Devil’s Lake Guidebook Delayed?

As far as guidebooks go, the current edition of the “Climber’s Guide to Devil’s Lake” by Sven Olaf Swartling is the epitome of the phrase “it is what it is”. It is far from spectac...

September 23, 2008

Amateur Hour At Devil’s Lake

After two frustrating weekends that involved no outdoor climbing, this past weekend we made it out to the quartzite bluffs of Devil’s Lake. The crew consisted of Mrs. Narc, Old Sch...

September 12, 2008

Matt Segal Does 4th Ascent of Cobra Crack

Matt Segal has made the 4th ascent of one of the hardest traditionally protected crack climbs in the world, Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish, BC.  It was first climbed by Sonnie Trot...

September 8, 2008

Yosemite Trad: Learning Lessons On ‘After Six’

I am a firm believer in learning something new every time I climb a route. Whether it is a new body position to do a move, a different way to rest, a better method for placing gear...

September 4, 2008

Yosemite Trad: Dog Crack

Eddie attempting the overhanging 5. 12 finger crack Dog Crack near the Wawona Tunnel in Yosemite Valley: Here is the full gallery:

August 28, 2008

A Few News & Notes Items

As usual when we go out of town I fell way behind on my obsessing over what other people are doing in the climbing world. It took me a few days to get through everything in my read...

August 4, 2008

News & Notes - 8/4/2008

News & Notes from bouldering strongmen, a Mt. Evans bouldering guidebook in the works, the Fortress Of Solitude and more...

July 28, 2008

Living The High Life At Devil’s Lake

Old School and I made our respective returns from surgery to the sharp end at Devil’s Lake yesterday. I decided to leave my camera behind so my words will have to suffice...for th...

July 11, 2008

Rachel & Eddie El Cap Pictures

Short on words, long on pictures, here is a visual summary of Rachel & Eddie’s trip up the Big Stone. They got to spend their first night on El Cap Tower with Ivo Ninov and Eric Pe...

June 24, 2008

Stuck On Yosemite

A few friends of ours, David, Rachel and Eddie, have been out in Yosemite for the past few weeks. After a few tantalizing emails about their exploits they were kind enough to shar...

Get Over It SDS at Big Elk Meadows
June 11, 2008

News & Notes – 06/11/08

News & Notes on Sonnie Trotter, Ethan Pringle, tribute to Todd Skinner, the Caldwell's and more...

May 29, 2008

Exclusive Details On Contents Of Dosage 5

There have been hints dropped here and there as to what will be on the upcoming Dosage 5 DVD, but never a definitive list. Until now that is. Check out this list of what Doses wi...

May 5, 2008

News & Notes - 5/8/2008

Not much Earth shattering news going down lately but here are a few things to check out from the past few weeks: Joe Kinder prepared nicely for his 2 month trip to Spain with his r...

April 29, 2008

Huber Brothers El Capitan Speed Record Video

Back in October, the brothers Alex and Thomas Huber broke the record for speed climbing The Nose on El Capitan ...twice. Their first effort only broke the previous record held by Y...

March 19, 2008

News & Notes – 3/19/2008

Climbing news: Rastaman Vibration Sit pictures, Midnight Express repeated, Steve House in Argentina, Steve Dieckhoff's passing, Yosemite Bouldering, Ty Landman FAs and Pete Whittak...

March 10, 2008

News & Notes - 3/10/2008

Just an update on Beth Rodden's new 5.14 trad route Meltdown . Big Up Productions was there filming her work on the route for the upcoming Dosage 5. Big Up shares their first hand...

March 10, 2008

Micah Dash Slideshow

La Sportiva and Mountain Hardwear athlete Micah Dash paid Adventure Rock a visit this past Friday night. He shared with the gathered crowd stories and pictures from his travels aro...

March 7, 2008

Beth Rodden Climbs 5.14 Crack In Yosemite

I know this has been reported elsewhere, but for those that haven't seen it yet Beth Rodden (pictured at right on her FA of The Optimists 5.14b at Smith Rocks, OR) has done the fir...

March 4, 2008

Devil's Lake Trad Ticklist

With Spring rapidly approaching and me having a cast on for the foreseeable future, I figured what better time than now to go over a ticklist of 50 or so routes that I wanted to le...

February 7, 2008

Metolius Master Cams

Like any good addiction, putting together a trad rack is one that always leaves you looking for that next piece of gear to buy. Ever since I started building my rack I've been thin...

SPRAY Trailer
February 6, 2008

News & Notes - 2/6/08

James Pearson, who is better known on this site for having flashed 3 V13 boulder problems , recently returned to the Gritstone of the UK to establish a new E10 route on the Cratcli...

January 15, 2008

Anunaki (5.12-) at Indian Creek Video

A video of a climber on Anunaki at Indian Creek, Utah.

January 14, 2008

More Gunks Pictures

Last October, I had the good fortune of climbing at the Gunks for a few days. If you missed my original write-up on the trip you can find it here . Finally, I got around to going t...

January 9, 2008

Climber Falls 100 Feet in Yosemite and Lives

It's not every day that you can get a person's thoughts on what it is like to rappel off the end of their ropes and fall 100 ft. to the ground. The accident in question took place...

Patagonia Video: Sonnie Trotter Climbs First Free Ascent...
November 19, 2007

Video of Sonnie Trotter Climbing Cobra Crack 5.14

In June 2006, Sonnie Trotter made the first free ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14) in Sqamish, BC placing all the gear on lead.  While it may or may not be the hardest trad climb i...

November 9, 2007

A Few From Devil's Lake

Here are a few pictures from a fantastic day at Devil's Lake yesterday.  Danny and I had a great day of climbing with the entire East Bluff to ourselves for the entire day. Lo...

November 5, 2007

Devil's Lake in the Fall

Picture if you will for a moment the most glorious Fall day you have ever seen at your local climbing crag. Picture in your head the trees ablaze with full fledged Fall colors. Fee...

October 18, 2007

The Gunks

Despite all of my (and Old School's) stressing, belly-aching and doomsday predictions about the weather forecast for New Paltz last week, the weather was basically a non-factor dur...

October 5, 2007

Committed

If all this talk of easy, well protected trad climbing lately doesn't quite do it for you, maybe the trailer for the upcoming film Committed will. Featuring climbers like Dave MacL...

October 4, 2007

More Devil's Lake Pictures

I added a few pictures from this past weekend's excursions at Devil's Lake to the pictures page .  I'm still learning how to work with my new Nikon D70 which is at times frust...

October 3, 2007

The Learning Curve

I spend a great deal of my time with young climbers. Most have boundless energy and seemingly unlimited potential as climbers. Despite all their physical strengths, I cannot spend...

September 28, 2007

Devil's Lake - 9/22-23/2007

Here are a few pictures with related storytelling from our weekend at Devil's Lake.  More pictures than what is seen here can be viewed by visiting the pictures page . On Satu...

September 26, 2007

Devil's Lake Pictures

I added some pictures from the past weekend's adventures at Devil's Lake to the pictures page .  Amy and I spent Saturday bouldering with Tony & Sarah at the North Shore...

September 23, 2007

Devil's Lake: John Cow Edition

Berkeley Foreplay Charybdis Thanks Chris!

September 18, 2007

Devil's Lake - 9/16/07

What a great weekend. Amy and I pulled off a rare doubleheader on Saturday when we took in a Wisconsin Badger football game in the afternoon and then a Brewers baseball game in the...

September 10, 2007

Roadside Attraction

Over the Labor Day weekend, I was fortunate enough to be able to climb one of the more classic trad routes at the Red River Gorge, Roadside Attraction .        

August 28, 2007

Devil's Lake Trad

Back in May, our friend Chris was nice enough to take us on a trad climbing adventure at Devil's Lake State Park.  Having never done any trad climbing, it was something I had...

July 3, 2007

Martina Cufar Comes to America

Former World Champion sport climber Martina Cufar from Slovenia announced her retirement from competitive climbing in 2006. During her competition days she sent sport routes as har...

March 22, 2007

Matt Segal

After seeing the video at momentumvm.com that features Matt Segal doing the FA of Iron Monkey (5.14) on natural gear, I have to say that I was a bit intrigued. I contrasted that wi...

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