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Interview With Adam Ondra After His 5.14d Onsight
I don't know how you warm up for your 5.14d onsights, but this is what Adam Ondra did:
Well, I tried a route which I thought was 8a and fell off at about half-height. But I wasn't that worried because I then found out that it wasn't even in the guidebook. I then ran around and flapped my arms as best I could and then set off.
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All this time I've been forgetting to run around and flap my arms. Must be why I haven't onsighted .14d yet.
the internet NEEDS a GIF of Adam Ondra running around and flapping his arms
Ondra's willingness to grade things honestly gives him so much credibility in the sport. When you've already onsighted and downgraded two 9as, there's no question that this one is solid at the grade. Good for him!