Tamás Zupán's Path To V15

Nice piece on OnBouldering.com about Tamás Zupán's recent repeat of Daniel Woods' In Search Of Time Lost (V15):

Back in Budapest, Tamás developed a special training regime, tailored to the particular style of the problem. “I did a lot of planking and trained 5 times a week including campus board, system board and climbing on a 60 degree wall”. He followed this plan for one and a half years and, just in case some extra pulling strength was needed, he did 50 1 arm pull ups with each arm every single day.
Some days with 4,5 kilos to add resistance.

Who hasn't done 50 1 arm pull ups every day ever cumulatively in a lifetime?

7 comments

bobJuly 28, 2014

Where is the pullup video? So I can believe this.

Aaron SchneiderJuly 28, 2014
Not 50 consecutive I would assume.

Tamás ZupánJuly 28, 2014

Of course not consecutive :) 10 left hand and 10 right hand and 2-3 min break. If i can do 50 one arm pull ups consecutive, i will send you a video :)

jplesserJuly 28, 2014
Pull-ups aside, congratulations on an amazing send.
puxaJuly 29, 2014
Congratulations for you send but for Christ's sake, focus more on finger's strength and don't waste more effort doing so many useless one arm pull ups :P
1. TJuly 30, 2014
  Until you've sent In Search Of Time Lost yourself, I don't think you can call his one arm pull-ups useless...
2. RyanJJuly 30, 2014
  Seems to me that he was already doing extensive finger strength training by way of campusing, bouldering, and system boarding. True, there is no mention of use of a fingerboard but the focus on finger strength is already there.
  
  In his new book, Strength, performance coach and personal trainer Steve Bechtel explains that "sometimes the big limiter in any day of climbing will be finger strength, tendons, even skin. By continuing the 'work' away from the rock, we can continue to improve without beating up the hands."
  
  It's not so much not wasting time doing one arms, it's more that you should do them when your hands can't handle any more climbing.